 rocstarr 
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Joined: Nov 2011  IA, USA
 Posts: 24 Feedback: 0% (0) |
Posted: 7/1/2012 10:39:51 PM
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT |
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Posted: 7/2/2012 12:30:16 AM
When you clean your rifle throw a bit of CLP or whatever you use on the threads, and maybe that'll help.
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Posted: 7/2/2012 1:23:58 PM
The only thing I found is to remove it as soon as possible.
Use a bar through the brake as a wrench, but don't bend the brake. To help in removal, clean the brake thoroughly with a carbon remover like Slip 2000 Carbon Killer, and use a brass "toothbrush" to scrub the threads on the muzzle. This makes it easier to get off the next time. I always chuckle when people complain about loose, wobbly AK-74 brakes. A few shots and it's tight. |
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Posted: 7/2/2012 9:43:30 PM
You aren't kidding they're tight! I use a vise grip to get mine off after shooting and it usually takes at least 30 min.
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Posted: 7/2/2012 11:44:24 PM
What rifles do you guys have that have them so tight? My SGL31 is a bit loose, with just a bit of wobble.
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Posted: 7/3/2012 2:01:52 PM
Mine isn't very loose.
It's that the surplus 7N6-PS ammo I shoot tends to "solder" the brake on and if you shoot a lot without removing it for cleaning or if you don't clean it soon after shooting it can be hard to get it off. When I go to the range I usually take 6 magazines with me. I can get the brake off without much trouble, but I clean it thoroughly after shooting, including the muzzle threads. |
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mks99
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Joined: Oct 2009 IL, USA
Posts: 1189 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 7/3/2012 2:32:36 PM
Originally Posted By dfariswheel:
The only thing I found is to remove it as soon as possible. Use a bar through the brake as a wrench, but don't bend the brake. To help in removal, clean the brake thoroughly with a carbon remover like Slip 2000 Carbon Killer, and use a brass "toothbrush" to scrub the threads on the muzzle. This makes it easier to get off the next time. I always chuckle when people complain about loose, wobbly AK-74 brakes. A few shots and it's tight. This. I do exactly the same thing and never have a problem. Scrubbing the threads with the brass brush gets you ahead of the game. |
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Posted: 7/3/2012 2:52:25 PM
Part of my cleaning routine before leaving the range involves spraying water, WD 40 and CLP (in that order) down the gas tube and bore of my rifle. Then I often don't field strip and clean it for a day or more. The brake always just twists off easily by hand when I do. I'm going to guess that the WD 40 and CLP are the reason for this because the threads and inside of the brake are usually still a little wet when I take it off. Give it a try next time, it works well. And of course once you have it off scrub the threads out.
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Posted: 8/31/2012 9:29:55 AM
I never had this problem with my 74's or my krink, even if I waited a few days after. Other than a shot of WD40 or kroil to the threads, you could do as others have suggested with taking brushes to the threads to clean them up real good beforehand.
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crashlanding
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Team Member
Joined: Feb 2008 CO, USA
Posts: 486 Feedback: 100% (21) Link To This Post |
Posted: 9/9/2012 12:47:20 AM
Wellllllll, I never had an issue with getting a brake off until today, it's a freshly painted 105 build, Russian corrosive ammunition, 200 rounds and damn that booster was stuck on there. I suppose that's why those 2 notches are in the front of the booster, I inserted a rod and managed to get it off. Tomorrow I'll clean the threads with a brush and Hoppes #9 to keep it from happening again.
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Posted: 9/9/2012 4:49:41 PM
You'd do better using a carbon remover like Slip 2000 Carbon Killer.
This does a much better and faster job of removing the hard carbon inside the muzzle attachment. |
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