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Posted: 12/13/2011 11:34:49 AM
Originally Posted By crashland73:
I wasnt around anywhere to where I could use soap and water so i drenched my ak in wd-40, inside and out of the barrel and receiver. so far no rust at all. its been quite a while. about a year now. crashland73, Generally speaking WD40 is fine to use. You can use amost anything to set up a barrier between the corrosive salts and the air surrounding it. If you think about it the rust/corrosion process can't start unless you introduce air into the mix. Using any type of oil will act as a barrier between the salt and the air.. Remember air does have moisture in it. Impala |
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Posted: 1/1/2012 10:57:10 AM
Originally Posted By g230d: Just use Dihydrogen Monoxygen after corrosives. Dihydrogen Monoxide |
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Posted: 1/3/2012 10:09:54 AM
Why not try MP-Pro7 and spray everything down and scrub. The instructions say it handles "black powder" which is suppose to be corrosive too.
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Posted: 1/11/2012 3:52:12 PM
Anybody tried 'Frog Lube' in this context?
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jcoffman55
Member
Team Member
Joined: Jan 2007  GA, USA
 Posts: 2315 Feedback: 100% (3) Link To This Post |
Posted: 1/24/2012 6:52:47 AM
While ED 40 is actually a pretty decent powder solvent, it does not protect your firearm long term. It's not a good lube for you gun, and it doesn't go away with the salts. Only a water based product is good for that. I use hot water and windex. I do use WD-40 for powder solvent purposes especially on 22's, but wipe off and apply gun lube afterwards. Works good for that.
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Posted: 1/29/2012 6:05:19 AM
I use m pro 7. clean like I normally do. No problems. Lube with mil-tec 1
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Posted: 2/8/2012 9:19:16 AM
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
you either flushed the salts or didn't shoot enough of it to cause a problem. wd40 will not neutralise salts. While it won't neutralise (or neutralize) the salts it does the next best thing, it disperses the water/moisture. Salts alone aren't the problem. It's the fact that salts attract moisture that is. WD40 will work fine. Windex will work better.  |
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Posted: 2/8/2012 2:55:21 PM
[Last Edit: 2/15/2012 9:06:21 PM by HeavyMetal]
As many have stated, the WD40 will buy you time.
However, if the priming compounds are truly corrosive {some 7.62x39 I've shot in the past listed corrosive is not, as far as I can tell} and you dry the bore and subject it to a humid environment, it may rust. Windex cures the ills due to the water, ammonia has nothing to do with it. Ammonia will, in high enough concentrations, dissolve gilding metal {copper alloy} fouling. Again; Water cures the salts problem, and, indeed, happens to be even cheaper than WD40... And by the way, I've heard every curse under the sun levelled at WD40 and after nearly 40 years of using it, have never yet seen the "varnishing", "gumming" or "tarring" effects inside a gun action. Actually, genuine ammonia will scavenge chlorides. |
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Posted: 2/15/2012 8:40:17 PM
Originally Posted By EVR:
As many have stated, the WD40 will buy you time. However, if the priming compounds are truly corrosive {some 7.62x39 I've shot in the past listed corrosive is not, as far as I can tell} and you dry the bore and subject it to a humid environment, it may rust. Windex cures the ills due to the water, ammonia has nothing to do with it. Ammonia will, in high enough concentrations, dissolve gilding metal {copper alloy} fouling. Again; Water cures the salts problem, and, indeed, happens to be even cheaper than WD40... And by the way, I've heard every curse under the sun levelled at WD40 and after nearly 40 years of using it, have never yet seen the "varnishing", "gumming" or "tarring" effects inside a gun action. Hear, hear. The same for me. Story: about 15 years ago I shot some WD-40 inside a little map wheel that we used in the engineering office. It was squeaking and sticking. That 'fixed' it and I didn't think any more about it. After I retired from there I visited one day and saw the map wheel. I picked it up and it was just as free, quiet and smooth as it had been before I left. Another: I bought a 1970s 31 day clock on ebay about 12 years ago. It was dragging and stopping, so I checked around about getting it serviced - it was too expensive. So, you guessed it, I blasted out the works with WD-40. I haven't even looked inside it since and it runs great, keeps time and lasts longer than 31 days without re-winding. BTW, clock guys hate WD-40 because it supposedly gums up the works. BULL! It de-gummed the works and saved me $75. |
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Posted: 4/3/2012 1:44:44 AM
Originally Posted By g230d:
Just use Dihydrogen Monoxygen after corrosives. Holy Fuck!! Don't you have to have some Class 4 license to get that stuff? 
~WTS |
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