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Posted: 10/28/2016 9:34:40 PM EDT
Since it is a bulgarian barrel and trunion, and a hungarian (maybe, seller wasn't sure) folder, would the NDS-2UF from Nodak Spud work? Also, considering being paki as fuck and using grade 8 bolts instead of rivets. Anyone done that with range toy level of success? |
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Posted: 10/29/2016 12:29:21 PM EDT
[#1]
The dimensions of the Polish rear trunnion (which the NDS2-UF is cut for) and the Hungarian are close enough that you should be able to fit them, but it might take some fitting your part. Another option for a receiver would be from Childers, and he can cut the rear specifically for the Hungarian AK63D trunnion as well as give you selector marks/notches and a custom serial number. As to the use of grade 8 bolts, please don't. These parts are not as easy to come by and the price is only going up. Do it right the first time and you'll have something you'll be proud of. If you don't have a press you can get the tools from Toth Tools which do not require a press. Depending on how close you are to Jefferson City I could probably help you out as well if you need some specific tools, lathe use, etc.
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Posted: 10/29/2016 12:42:14 PM EDT
[#2]
Is there a site that gives the various dimensions of the various trunions so that I can check what I actually have?
Also, will grinding the rivet heads off and pushing them out work, or will I need to progressively drill them out? |
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Posted: 10/29/2016 4:19:10 PM EDT
[#3]
Check with Nodak. They are pretty good about answering the phone and questions. I wouldn't waste the kit on a screw build. You can always sell the tools when you are done. I think someone over at the akfiles.com rents tools
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Posted: 10/29/2016 5:01:00 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The dimensions of the Polish rear trunnion (which the NDS2-UF is cut for) and the Hungarian are close enough that you should be able to fit them, but it might take some fitting your part. Another option for a receiver would be from Childers, and he can cut the rear specifically for the Hungarian AK63D trunnion as well as give you selector marks/notches and a custom serial number. As to the use of grade 8 bolts, please don't. These parts are not as easy to come by and the price is only going up. Do it right the first time and you'll have something you'll be proud of. If you don't have a press you can get the tools from Toth Tools which do not require a press. Depending on how close you are to Jefferson City I could probably help you out as well if you need some specific tools, lathe use, etc. Thanks for the info on childers. That looks like my best option for ease of building (saves me some drilling). |
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Posted: 10/29/2016 9:41:07 PM EDT
[#5]
Have you thought about getting a bulgarian ak74 fixed stock rear trunion?
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Posted: 10/29/2016 9:56:22 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have you thought about getting a bulgarian ak74 fixed stock rear trunion? Nope. want the inaccurate underfolder. |
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Posted: 10/30/2016 6:59:06 PM EDT
[#7]
Got the stock trunion dealt with today. |
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Posted: 10/30/2016 7:25:45 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/Bmill113/20161030_162253_zps9rpckmqc.jpg Got the stock trunion dealt with today. You're a hell of a lot younger than I thought. |
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Posted: 10/30/2016 7:34:30 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You're a hell of a lot younger than I thought. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/Bmill113/20161030_162253_zps9rpckmqc.jpg Got the stock trunion dealt with today. You're a hell of a lot younger than I thought. Don't let anyone tell you that a pack a day habit ages you. |
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Posted: 11/5/2016 11:58:37 PM EDT
[#10]
remember measure/ fit twice rivet once .
When doing a mock up its important to fit the dust cover into the front trunion and rear trunion ,too long and you will have the dust cover coming off . riveting takes a little skill brute force will not make up for poor fitment and improper rivet height/length. you know the BBL pin has to be pushed and the BBL has to be pressed off to do the front trunion rivets. My first build was a PSL and came out great. second was a bulgy same results. did a third bulgy has brass ejection issues at times, I am leaning to a mag issue . have a few more to do maybe this winter . Good Luck read a lot, and that is a nice Kit I would do it right if it was mine |
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Posted: 11/6/2016 12:03:57 AM EDT
[#11]
I've got a childers receiver ordere, along with rivets. Just gotta dothe waiting game now
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Posted: 11/7/2016 11:29:12 PM EDT
[#12]
Buy two full sets of rivets. Don't be afraid to drill and punch one out if you don't like it. First did I did a complete build I had a couple that I didn't like, drilled them out and tried again with better results.
As stated, read up on getting correct rivet length and how to dimple the receiver. Even AK Builder rivet sets are not always the perfect length for every single build. General rule is exposed shank should have a length of 1.5x of the shank diameter. A lot of people ignore this on the first go and end up with folded over rivets, etc. If you are good at improvising, a lot can be done with a decent set of automotive tools, bench vise etc. E. g. a bench vise can be used to crush long rivets and dimple a receiver. Built this 5.56 AK74 earlier this summer with just garage tools, sections of pipe, vise, bolt cutter rivet crushers, etc. 
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Posted: 11/8/2016 10:07:35 AM EDT
[#13]
To be honest, the 5.45 rig is the one that should have been an underfolder from the factory. It's just so damn uncomfortable to shoot with a 7.62 rifle. Of course I have one, because holy hell it's a looker. but it isn't very comfy, that's for sure.
OP, go slow and as posted above, don't be afraid to re-do a rivet that doesn't look right to you. My favorite rifle by far is my bulgarian '74 sidefolder I built in 2005. Parked and Norrell's Molyresin, thing still looks new (metal at least--the Russian wood's a little worn-in finally) and I have NOT been nice to it. 
Anxiously awaiting more pics as the project continues! |
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Posted: 11/8/2016 10:40:54 PM EDT
[#14]
I'll be finishing the rear trunion this weekend.
Why do I have to press out the barrel to do the front? Potentially, that'll mean I have to take it to work to use our shop press, seeing as how I don't have one. Then I'll have to use it again to put the barrel back in, as well as borrow a set of gauges. Can the front part of the build be done carefully and slowly with the barrel installed? |
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Posted: 11/9/2016 12:56:51 AM EDT
[#15]
Technically you can buck the trunnion rivets against the barrel, but there is a very likely chance that you will end up with loose rivets in the future.
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Posted: 11/9/2016 9:48:57 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'll be finishing the rear trunion this weekend. Why do I have to press out the barrel to do the front? Potentially, that'll mean I have to take it to work to use our shop press, seeing as how I don't have one. Then I'll have to use it again to put the barrel back in, as well as borrow a set of gauges. Can the front part of the build be done carefully and slowly with the barrel installed? The rivets aren't likely to get the proper crush they need to be secure long-term, as stated above. If the barrel is already headspaced and pinned in the front trunnion, you don't need to re-headspace it. You just press it in until the channel for the barrel pin is aligned with the hole in the trunnion and you're good to go. |
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Posted: 11/10/2016 1:14:20 AM EDT
[#17]
Yes you can install the barrel once and be done. Rivet the front trunnion, press and headspace the barrel, pin it. You can still support the breech face of a barreled receiver in a press, but you'lll have to get creative about fitting your support through the mag well. Once you have your support figured out, press the barrel components, adjust and pin them.
Remember to check component interference fit, as pressing them off again if they're too tight can be a challenge with the barrel already installed and pinned.. With the barrel already pinned, you can probably drift the components back towards the muzzle if necessary using a solid brass punch and sledge. E.g. similar to this 
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Posted: 11/10/2016 8:55:40 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes you can install the barrel once and be done. Please re-read and actually pay attention to what he posted. Your response, while generally informative, doesn't actually answer the question he asked. The kit is an originally-barreled kit, meaning the rifle's receiver was cut up but the barrel wasn't (imported before the BS barrel ban). So the barrel is original, meaning in order to demill and assemble on a new receiver, he does in fact have to remove the barrel to do it properly. THAT'S what he was asking, not.....whatever it is you thought he was asking to respond in the way you did. But to add to what you posted, with the right tool set, installing and removing components from the barrel can be done time and time again very easily, and you don't need a damn sledgehammer to do it. 
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Posted: 11/15/2016 2:25:56 PM EDT
[#19]
It will be better to remove the barrel on a screw build. It is possible to do a screw build but there is very little room for error. Once you press out the barrel you will see how little material there is in the front trunnion. I have one scew built ak, but I prefer to rivet the front and rear trunnions.
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Posted: 1/10/2017 1:37:15 PM EDT
[#20]
Still waiting on Childers.
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Posted: 2/12/2017 8:48:04 PM EDT
[#21]
Just keeping it out of the chives.
Seriously, as soon as I get it, I'll start updating the thread with the build. |
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Posted: 3/9/2017 7:18:11 AM EDT
[#22]
Got my receiver yesterday. Probably start work on it tomorrow or this weekend.
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Posted: 3/9/2017 9:12:17 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Got my receiver yesterday. Probably start work on it tomorrow or this weekend. Sweet! Can't wait to see how it goes. 
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Posted: 3/18/2017 8:26:13 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sweet! Can't wait to see how it goes. |
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