So today I went to press the barrel in. The barrel is new and I got it from Kvar. I also got the trunnion and bolt from Kvar. all new parts. But they aren't interfacing properly methinks. Pictures are included below.

http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag51/chidesterjacob/20150915_183906_zps0k0junat.jpg

http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag51/chidesterjacob/20150915_175504_zpsbq2w9yhk.jpg

http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag51/chidesterjacob/20150915_175427_zpsgtwbquc5.jpg

http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag51/chidesterjacob/20150915_175302_zpstjicwaxo.jpg

First of all, the bolt will not rotate and I know it's supposed to. Secondly, the barrel and the bolt can't get close to each other. There is a gap as can be seen in the picture. The barrel can't be pressed any farther and the bolt won't go forward. Is there some sort of fitting of the bolt or trunnion that needs to happen or did I screw up on my parts selection? Please help

Did the bolt rotate into the trunnion prior to you installing the barrel? Since they're virgin parts you may need to adjust the ramp on the bullet guide to work with the bolt. But since you have the trunnion already riveted in, you may need to bevel the bolt instead. Typically, if the bolt isn't rotating it's because you have the barrel installed too far into the trunnion. Do you have headspace gauges that you're using in conjunction with pressing the bolt?

The bolt has never been able to rotate in the trunnion but I did not realize that was a thing it was supposed to do until later. Honestly, in my noobly excitement to put it together, I kind of did things out of order. Do you have an example  a resource demonstrating how the ramp on the bullet guide or the bolt head should be modified? Is this something that should be expected with new parts?

Also, I don't have headspace gauges. I was going to use the tape method prescribed in a video by a fella named ginsboy

I'll try and write something up detailed for you, however it appears that you need a lot more research under your belt before proceeding.



This is going to come off as harsh, but in my opinion ginsboy isn't the best person to reference when it comes to AK building, and his recommendation of using "the tape method" to headspace a barrel is irresponsible and dangerous. Given your limited knowledge on building AK's, I wouldn't rely on his instruction as you can get yourself hurt.

Thank you Thank you. I appreciate the swift and honest responses.

No problem. I know that a lot of people are going to disagree with me when it comes to using the "tape method" and to ginsboy himself. I know in his video he says "This is how it was done before gauges were available", but every old timer smith that I've worked with never even mentioned using it. Even if that's "how it was done" it doesn't change the fact that we do have standardized gauges now, and they're inexpensive. As for showing you how the bolt works, I may need to make a video on it to adequately explain it and give you the correct visuals.

ETA: Just wanted to add that ginsboy does have some great videos, and in many cases he does have good tips on certain builds. I'm just someone who doesn't believe in building something "good enough" when you have the ability to put your best into it. I've fixed enough garage hacks to sour me on "good enough" builds like he does in many videos.

Some may disagree but IMO when it comes down to it, headspacing with a live steel-cased round (use several different types with extractor and pin removed) and NO-GO gauge is probably adequate for an AK.

The reason I say this is that steel-cased ammunition generally does not get crushed or deformed when chambering in a tight chamber like brass will. It will either chamber or it won't. If you can go into battery on several different types/manufacturers of steel-cased east Euro 7.62x39 you are probably right in CIP spec. At that point you just need to make sure the chamber is not too long.

The tape method may get OK results, but it can go either way. $20-30 for a NO-GO gauge is cheaper then rebuilding the rifle because you pinned the barrel on the loose side and you start getting case head separations.

If you want to spend the extra for a GO gauge, go ahead. Just be aware there are two different gauge specs for 7.62x39 and it's generally recommended to use the rarer CIP gauges rather than SAAMI, as this is the spec that most eastern Euro ammo will be manufactured to.

Get the correct gauge for the head space. There are too many variations in ammo to relay on that method.
It appears in the picture that the bolt has room to rotate so look and see why it's not rotating.
Lets see a picture of the front of the trunion and barrel. The last part is the hardest to push. The Forbus barrel pushing tools are great tools for this.