I've had the thought of attempting to build an AK from a kit for a while now. I really enjoyed building my AR (only did the lower) and I've heard AK building is a much different process and a bit more complicated. I like tinkering and building stuff so I finally decided to pull the trigger and ordered a parts kit.

I have a few questions and after searching for other topics and stickies didn't find the questions I have addressed. I am an AK newbie so some of this may be obvious to you veterans.

I ordered a kit like this: Polish Underfolder Parts Kit
I'm going to order a NDS-1P receiver

I have all the basic tools most guys have... hammers, drills, Dremel, punches, files, a grinder, a vice. I also have access to a drill press if really needed.

My questions:

1. Will either of these barrels work? AK47 1975 Barrel or AKM Barrel or AK Barrel Any particular barrels to look for or stay away from? I've heard Green Mountain had some shitty barrels a while back.. but haven't seen anything recently. They GTG now?


2. I've read that AKs can be built without any "special" tools. I also know that special tools would make it easier. However, this will be my only AK build for a while so can I feasibly do this without buying any special tools? My main concern lies with pressing the barrel and riveting. I'm not opposed to fabricating some cheap tools (like the All-thread thingy for pressing a barrel), but if I'm just building this one for myself so I'd like to keep things simple.


3. All I need as far as parts go is the parts kit, a receiver, a barrel and a set of rivets? Anything else?

Thanks for the reply. I can understand needing to buy some drill bits. Do they have to be end mill type or will any carbide bit work?

I don't have a press unfortunately, is it only needed for pressing the barrel on? If that's the case I think I'll rig up the "Allthread" method instead of spending that kind of money for a press.

As far as riveting goes.. this is probably a stupid question (again I'm a total newbie at this) but since I'm not in a hurry to build this, is it possible to rivet everything without a rivet gun and jigs? Like by hand with a hammer?

It's been done, and done quite well. Just make sure you practice...A LOT!

Hammer Riveting

Thanks for the link! I'm glad that hammer riveting isn't totally out of the question. I did buy 2 rivet sets for the AK because I had a feeling I'd fuck something up.

Anyone else hammer rivet?

Thanks for the tips. I was thinking about the case and tape method for headspacing... It doesn't work? Btw, will any of those 3 barrels i linked in the OP work with this kit?

And this is another stupid question.. I've never used headspace gauges before. For pressing a new barrel on, can I get by with just the "no go" gauge? I would think a cartridge would suffice for a "go" gauge.

Just to be on the safe side, I am spending the extra money for the go, and no-go gauges. I would hate for my first build to blow up in my face

Couldn't you use say, 5-10 cartridges as a "go" gauge? I mean a handful of them will average out and give you a good idea. I'd rather not spend $30 for an item I will only use once if I don't have to.

Hmm. This is true..

It's just getting a little more expensive than I thought. But I guess once I have the stuff I can build more...

I think I'm gonna need to find someone with a press. How many different things can you use a press for in an AK build? (like pressing barrel in/out, barrel pin, rear sight pin.. anything else?)

Are you using 5-10 from the same lot of Yugo? What about when that runs out? Will it work with Golden Tiger, Silver Bear, Brown Bear, Horandy, Remington, Wolf, etc.???

Would it work? Maybe.

You could also end up with a gun that's out of spec. Again, .010" is the difference between my go and nogo gauges.

If you're that tight on money, hold out for one on the EE. Or, buy one new for $30, and sell it when you're done for $15.

I'm not the only one that shoots my guns. I want them to be safe and reliable for anyone that ends up with them anywhere down the road. My kids (2 and 4 months) will likely end up with them someday. I try to make my guns the best I can, not good enough to get by.

My first AK was a GP1975 that jammed up all the time. Something was out of whack. I still don't know what. I sold it before I got into building.

My next AK was a Maadi I cobbled together with tools I had laying around. I did the spent casing and tape method for headspacing. It was a jam-o-matic too.

After that, I tooled up with AK-Builder stuff from the EE and started building AKs the right way, including the headspacing. I rebuild the Maadi and it now runs 100% like the rest of my AKs. Since buying the right tools and doing it the right way, I've yet to have a FTF, FTE, or any other malfunction out of the dozen or so I've built. I now have go and nogo gauges in 7.62x39, 5.45x39, and 5.56.

YMMV, I'm not an expert, etc...

Good call on the gauges. I've had good luck with my AK-Builder barrels, most recently my M92 barrel.

Ouch.

If you accept that premise, then ideally you should head-space your rifle every time you change brand of ammo. Right?

I don't think so. If there was so much difference between brands of ammo, then I think you would hear of a lot more "incidents".

I agree a "go gauge" is a nice tool to have, but I don't feel it is absolutely necessary.

Just my opinion. Each to their own.

No not when I change ammo just on the first shoot of the build... I don't check headspace after every brand change...I do see some brands do fit tighter than others but the the problem its not it being to tight its being too loose and thus being dangerous to shoot... I guess if you look at the post then you can fight about it but its not unsafe if the bolt won't lock down on the bullet.....