I've had a habit for all my bbl's(plain, CL, melonite) to neutralize when I use Sweets or Tetra copper remover as well as other cleaners with 91% isopropyl alcohol. Then I dry patch, wet oiled patch and one dry again. I've read some threads about doing so, what do you guys do? Just skip neutralizing I mean?

Use KG-12 and get the copper out faster without worrying about corroding the bore(or my sinuses)with ammonia.

So no need to use isopropyl alcohol before applying oil? I've read that any traces of solvents can react with many gun oils.  I'll check out KG-12.

Anyone else run a pass of isopropyl alcohol before oiling? I'm over thinking this?

Alcohol is probably overkill if you patch your barrels until dry.

But a good flush never hurt.

I hit my post copper/lead treatments with some Brake Cleaner sprayed down the barrel to wash out the product then an oil soaked lose patch. I don't bother to do a dry patch after the oil unless I'm going to shoot in the near future. I just leave the oil in there and then pull a clean dry bore snake through a couple of times if I take it out to shoot.

I gotcha, I'm just going to wipe dry any solvents then lubricate the bore. I had read awhile back that using isopropyl alcohol or plain water would neutralize residual solvents so the lube doesn't react(mainly for storage).

My worst rifle for corrosion would definitely be my mosin. Corrosive ammo and all.

On that old nazi killer, she gets water first. About 5 soaked patches. There's water all up in there.

Then I use "bore cleaner, rifle",  dry patch or 2, then oil for the bore.

Not a speck of rust. Haven't used anything to remove the solvent.

It would have to be some really harsh stuff to keep go after steel after dry patches and fresh oil.

I do usually run about 5 passes of the brush, then a patch with a touch of solvent on it. Do this 3 times. Dry patches until no more solvent comes out on them. Then switch to oil, usually the oil will bring out some different junk, so I end up running about 3 oil patches, a dry, then an oil to finish it. After that, I don't really care what color comes out, because I know it's clean enough.

Wipe all steel parts down with an oily rag, and only touch the wood/sling when putting her away.

Zero rust.

ETA: on my modern guns, I use acetone in aerosol form (non-chlorinated brake cleaner), and blast all the junk out after using solvent. See joglee's thread about using grease. All the junk in my AR15s wipes right out with a rag. If I happened to use oil, then I will use brake cleaner to get it all out. I don't know if it will hurt my plastic, haven't gotten it on there.

I also use alcohol, after the Barnes CR-10. Very corrosive I would guess.

No problems from just using rubbing alcohol, even on my stainless barrels. More impressive than a chrome lining resisting it I figured...

I'd say carry on using alcohol.

If you still use a brass/copper bore bruss with the copper remover though, I'd say switch to nylon. Just did that and I go through so many fewer bore brushes now.

If you want to "neutralize" it, you'll need to pour a mild acid down the bore since ammonia is a base. Of course that will release salt and water. Which you then have to remove. Or you could just use the alcohol... which does not neutralize anything, it just flushes it away and evaporates. You could use water to rinse it away, but you'll need to dry it before oiling.

I've been using Sweets for my precision 308, and just follow the instructions by completely drying then oiling then drying again. Just checked on it and 2 months later the bore still looks good. I only really use hoppe's oil now, just because it's so common and through the years I've accumulated like 10 of the little bottles and they last a long time.