I have always done a wipe down with some RemOil wipes, but was told to do something deeper. I have been reading and studying on this section for everything recommended in regards to cleaning and lubing.

I am using standard rods (nothing expensive) and I have just gotten a couple of small bottles of Hoppe's #9 bore cleaner and Hoppe's lub oil. I plan on following the instructions that came with it, but I have noticed that there are several other lubs and oils mentioned in these topics.

Is Hoppe's good for long term use, or is there something better? If there is, what should I get?
I did read and subscribed to the attachment at the top of the list dealing with the lub and oil points for the AR and I also wanted to see what was a good lube to use, or again, would the hoppe's work just as well? 
I have read both the negatives and the positives regarding using Dawn and Hot water, but I am not sure if I want to go that route unless it is the best method out there. Yes? No?

I really want to take care of my firearm and have it last. It is a Ruger ar556 stock. Any and all suggestions are appreciated and my thanks to all who will help.  

:Edit

Toss the rods and get yourself a bore snake in 5.56. Spray some clp down the barrel from chamber and pull the snake through a few times. walah clean. I then concentrate on the chamber area and disassemble and clean bolt and bolt carrier with clp. I hit all the lube points with mobil 1 full synthetic motor oil. The motor oil is a personal decision, lube with whatever floats your boat, but I like to use more than just a clp for lubrication.

Mobile 1

I clean most parts on the first pass with MPRO-7.  It really cuts oil, grease, and carbon without any odor.  Second pass is usually with CLP until cleaned and lubed.  I hit the FCG with some canned air to clean out any debris.  If the FCG is really trashed I will spray it with brake cleaner, hit it with 100psi compressed air, and then re-oil, applying Magnalube G to the trigger/hammer mating surfaces.

The barrel usually gets a couple wet CLP patches and then a dry one.  I brush the chamber once every two years whether it needs it or not.

Of the four I cleaned last weekend, I picked the dirtiest one and cleaned the buffer tube, spring, and buffer.  That part really didn't need it, even with steady suppressor use.

Clean with ballistol and lube with lube of your choice

Questions like this come up every couple of weeks. Lots of opinions and different methods. What you will learn is there really is no "best way".

I have been shooting for over 40 years. I bought my first AR in 1985 and still have it. It has not been changed or any parts replaced. I shoot it often.

My method is Nylon brush 10-15 strokes dry. Then a soaking wet patch of Hoppe's. Let sit for 15mins to and hour depending on how much time I have for cleaning. I follow this with several dry patches. I might do Hoppe's again if really dirty. Then once I am happy it is clean I clean the chamber with a swab, Gun Scrubber and a rag. Once all clean I run an oily patch through the bore followed by a dry one. Then I wet a rag with Rem Oil and wipe down the exterior of the gun.

I have been using Slip2000EWL on my ARs for a few years now. I like it better than Hoppe's, or other gun oils. It seems to make cleaning the BCG easier. I used whatever gun oil I had laying around on my ARs up until 2-3 years ago. When this runs out I am considering switching to a synthetic motor oil.

I enjoy cleaning my guns as much or more than shooting them and can be a bit obsessed with getting it clean. I am one who likes things clean, neat and organized.

I do use bore snakes sometimes. I do the rod and patch method when the gun really needs a deep cleaning. Bore snakes are used after a range session or when I am in a hurry.

3 or 4 years ago I bought myself a few Tipton carbon fiber rods to clean with. I used the 3 piece rods for years before this.

Recently I tried hot soapy water with dish detergent to clean with and was very happy with the result. I may add this step to my cleaning ritual.

Thank you all for your response to this question. Sorry if it seems redundant. I have never thought of using Mobile 1 synthetic oil to lube the BCG. What is the best method to apply it according to the Lube points?

I must be honest and say that cleaning is not my most enjoyable part of the gun ownership but one that must be done. I saw a bunch of things (CLP, MPRO-7, Break cleaner, Slip2000EWL etc.) and wasn't sure if they were also good for the bore? I had thought that the Hoppe's looked to be really good for that, but maybe I am wrong. I have seen the CLP mentioned several times but if one is better than the others, I want to get that one.

As far as methods, I haven't really found one that I am comfortable or proficient with just yet. I am cleaning until the bore looks clean and I see no gunk or chunks or whatever when I look at a light. I used to use the RemOil wipes on a rod and run it through about three or four times. Then follow that by a few dry cloths. Then hit my other parts with it until it looked cleaned and then put it away. Knowing now that there is a difference between a lube and an oil, that will be added. I will  be following what I found here. So my method's are growing for sure. I have read about the hot water and Dawn soap and was very interested in it. But again, I read that one needs to be very careful because it can allow rust to form quickly. True?

I have seen bore snakes mentioned a few times, but in almost each time, there were some that opposed it. Even as I type this, I saw that under my topic, there was another topic speaking about a stuck snake! I have always used a rod and pad and am uneasy about a snake after reading on here.

Thank you for the help again.

I usually use Ballistol for cleaning everything.  I use a Tipton carbon fiber rod and a bore guide, and run patches soaked in Ballistol thru the bore til they come out clean.  It usually only takes about 3-5 patches.  Then I'll run one dry patch thru just to pick up any excess Ballistol.  I don't run any lube thru, cause the Ballistol does that job too.  I dissassemble the BCG and set it in a metal 9x13 cooking pan, and liberally apply Ballistol.  I let it set a couple of minutes, then start scrubbing it all down with an old toothbrush.  Then I wipe it off as clean as it'll go with those blue shop towels from auto parts stores.  Love these towels cause they don't get all linty.  I use Slip2000 EWG grease on the surfaces of the bolt and BCG that rub in the action.  I also use a blue towel with a little Ballistol to wipe down inside the receivers wherever there's carbon fouling.   Then I put it all back together, and stroke the BCG a few time to spread the grease around.  Wha-la, she is clean.

Every now and then, I'll substitute Hoppes #9 for the Ballistol when cleaning the bore, because I don't want the carbon to get too accustomed to Ballistol and start not wanting to come out.  I like to keep it guessing...

There are tons of gun cleaning products out there, and just as many ways to do it. Everyone has their favorites.

I like
Hoppes and/or MPRO-7 for solvent
Breakfree for CLP
Slip 2000 EWL and EWL30  for oil
Slip 2000 Synthetic Grease for grease
Breakfree Collector for a preservative oil

I've settled on these produces after having  tried just about every product out there except the magical Frog Lub which I just can't buy into. If I run out of one of these, I don't fret, because in reality just about any product that is made for gun cleaning or lube works. Even Mobile 1, ATF or (gasp) Simple Green.

It's less about what worked for others, and more about what works for you. I say experiment with Hoppes #9 and see how you like it. It's been used for many generations and you can't go wrong.

Some people like using CLP and call it a day. Some folks believe using a separate solvent followed up with a good oil is the better way.

What I do know is that at some point in history, folks used animal and hot boiling water and managed just fine.

The best way to apply Mobil1 is with a pick of some sort. A good recommendation is to use the same one as your car. That way you'll always have good supply.

You can use the cleaning rod and patch holder. Simply dip the patch holder in (minus a patch of course), and spread it on the friction points of the bcg. Just a hairline amount. See the how-to tutorial on where lube points are and only apply to those area.

You would be solid if you used Hoppes #9, and Mobil1. Use Hoppes to clean, then use Mobil1 to lube. Can't go wrong, really.

Just be sure to never use USED motor oil.

Thank you all for the insights. I will start with the hope's since I just got that and I will pick up some Mobile 1 when I am in town. Last question in regards to the oil, I saw some say synthetic only and others not say anything...is there a benefit of one over the other?

I am hoping to break it down this weekend (if I can get a break from the packing ) and try all of this.

Thanks again for the insights!

Seems to be general consensus to use synthetic. Be advised most Synthetic motor oils sold in the US are not true synthetics. Do some Googling and you will see.

Castrol that is labeled "Made in Germany" is. The made in USA is not.

Mobil1 is always synthetic as far as I know. As far as using dino bone it's alright so long as you know of the temperature variations. In most of the USA, it probably won't matter what you get.

Mobil1 is generally liked because it includes less amount of additives. The more pricey oils tend to have additives to it.

Group 4 motor oils are true synthetics. Most USA made Synthetic motors oils are not 100% PAO Group 4 oils. The US rule on labeling an oil as synthetic is much looser than the EU.

Mobil 1 is a great oil, don't get me wrong, but it is not a true Synthetic.

Amsoil is true synthetic and any German made Castrol is.

Not that you will have problems with even regular cheap motor oil but if you want 100% synthetic you need to really do your homework. The labeling is deceptive.

Dino bone is an oil that I have never heard of before. And looking at the discussion, I really didn't know that there was such a difference between oils! I use Mobile 1 in my SUV but it is not the synthetic. I has always been under the impression that oil is oil...guess I was wrong on that. So I need to check the labels and see what is there. The German made Castrol is synthetic as well as some of the Mobile 1. The oil that has the least amount of ingredients is the best then if I am reading this right?

Most of these I have only read about and not really seen anywhere excep Hoppe's. My lgs has hopes and if I am not mistaken something else, but I cannot remember the name of it right off the top of my head. I try to avoid the things that are just ok. I guess I need to just keep trying different things. I do appreciate your list and when I go into my LGS again, I will seek these out and see if they have them. Thanks again.

Dino bone means just plain old oil that isn't synthetic.

As far as your next statement, less additives not necessarily good or bad. It's just that you pay more for pricey oil with additives than you would with the cheaper stuff. Most of the additives just for cleaning internal engine parts. Those probably won't affect your rifle function.

I recommend just going online. However if you go the Mobil1/Hoppes approach, then it's pretty much a two stops at the local gun store, then to the auto store. Heck, you don't even need patches. At most auto stores, they sell rags by the pound. You just cut them up to size. That's what I usually do and rarely use the more pricey patches except in the finishing steps.

I'm sure because you put "gasp" you already know this, but OP might not.  Standard Simple Green is pretty corrosive, and aluminum is particularly susceptible to it.  Granted, the anodizing of your AR receivers should resist this, but if anywhere has worn down to bare metal it will be vulnerable.  If you're very thorough with your timing and rinsing, it can be used safely, but I don't see any reason to risk it.

http://www.simplegreen.com/faq.html

or a Wallyworld

I think motor oil is fine.  Wife asked what to get me for my b day   . I said a gallon of Breefree CLP . It was $60 . Probably more with shipping. Caught it on sale . I have cut my own patches before. Will do it again. But I also just bought a bag of 1000  22cal  patches and 1000 7.62 sized patches . $8 and 12 from midway I think.  I have bought a couple of yards of virgin enough cotton material from a craft style store for cheap. Thats what I used to cut my own patches.  I also use old T shirts  cut down in larger squares for wiping and cleaning rags . It's all good . Enjoy out hobbie , sport and lifestyle. Cheers WarDawg

I clean my guns with Hoppe's #9, mostly.  Been using it for over 40 years.  My dad used it before I started using it.  No issues with it getting stuff cleaned.  I do use something else for corrosive ammo cleaning (a black powder cleaning product).  It works.  It's easy to find/buy.  Works in the handguns, shotguns and rifles.  It works on steel, stainless steel or chrome lined barrels.  Rim fire or center fire.

I use a cleaning rod.  I insert the rod from the muzzle end, put the tip with patch (or a brush) on and pull (PULL) it through the barrel from chamber to muzzle.  Why?  First, I want the crud out of the barrel, not pushed into the chamber/receiver.  Second, pulling keeps the rod in tension.  In tension the rod stays straight if I pull it slow and straight and I can keep it off the lands.  If you push a patch/brush through the barrel the rod is in compression and it bends.  All the muzzle/chamber guides in the world won't keep the rod from rubbing the lands as it is compressed.  Don't believe me?  Put the tip on the floor and push down and watch the rod bend outwards in the center.

I usually field strip my AR (or other rifle/handgun) and run a solvent soaked brush through the barrel a couple of times and let the barrel aside to soak while I work on the rest of it.  When I'm done with the rest I finish cleaning/patching the barrel.  If I'm putting it away (storage) I'll run an oily patch down the barrel for protection.  Even on the chrome/stainless rifles.

I use a GI brush, the double ended OD green one, to scrub/clean the cracks/crevices and patches to pick up the loose stuff.  Every now and then I use something like carb cleaner or brake cleaner to really blast stuff loose and out of the rifle/pistol frame.  If I use either of those, once it dries I then spray with Rem-oil.  Not because I think rem-oil can't be beat, but because the cleaning sprays strip all the oil off the surface of the metal and I want something back on them quick.  Those parts will still get wiped off with an oily cloth (Mobil 1 or 3n1 oil, depends on what's easy to grab at the time).

The only lube I've used on the AR's the last few years is Mobil 1.  I still use some 3n1 oil on the handguns at times, but even they get some Mobil 1.

I'll admit I don't sit there scrubbing/brushing/patching till the gun is spotless.  If you look hard enough you'll always find a little bit of something some where.  But they are clean and lubed and ready for the next use.

In my civilian life I've only used hot water to clean a rifle that fired corrosive ammo.  Very hot water, hair dryer on high to heat it up afterwards and blow water out, then sprayed with rem-oil (the hot water also strips the oil off the surface of the metal) when it's good and dry.  Then the regular cleaning starts followed by the regular lubing.

I'm an over luber.  I don't mine some oil in the rifle case lining or on my hands/shirt/face when I fire it.

I also don't want to see rust anywhere on a gun.  

On my AR15's I oil the springs on the rear flip up sight.  I put a drop of oil on the front sight so it can run down inside and keep the threads on the sight, the spring and the detent from rusting.  I put a drop on the barrel at both spots where the front sight contacts the barrel.  I've seen front sights pulled off and the barrel rusted under it.  Don't want that when I pull a front sight off.  I wipe out the flash suppressor cage.  On the rifles with fixed stocks I oil/wipe off the butt screws and the hinge/latch on the storage compartment door.  Any crack/crevice/hole that could harbor rust (like the roll pins that hold the trigger guard and the bolt catch in place) gets a drop of oil, too.  Rust hurts my feelings.

If I had a piston operated AR I'd grease the bolt.  I use grease on my SIG 556R and the grease lasts for months without being fouled.  In the AR15 I'd be greasing every time I cleaned it (which is every time I shoot it) due to the crud blowing back into the bolt/receiver.

Hoppes is fine, for cleaning and oiling. If it wasn't it wouldn't still be around after 30+ years. The longer you have firearms of any sort the more types of cleaner and lub you will try out. Eventually you will find the one you prefer and feel works best. Just remember opinions on this and all other subjects are like butts, everyone has one and some are better than others.

I did not know that the stuff was corrosive. Thank you for that info. I see now, very clearly, that I have been very inadequate in my cleaning  and I am wanting to get this done before I have to move. I am going to try the Hoppe's (they also had a bottle of their lube in it as well, but I like the motor oil from Wal-Mart as well. I can get a lot of it for a pretty decent price.

I did read about pushing the rod from the chamber side out the end of the bore. I have never thought of that before and it makes perfect sense. Like I said, I was very inadequate .

I had also never thought about cutting my own patches. I guess my concern would be having the frayed edges or rag shards come off from cuts. Has that been a problem for anyone? If not, what size do you usually cut it? I can use a patch as a guide until I get the hang of it, but any thoughts or advice for me in this regard as well? I would hate to have a cloth get lodged inside my gun.

I do love getting all of the replies. While I do see that there is a variety of opinions, I am a firm believer in learning from those who have been there and done that so I don't repeat mistakes. Thank you all for your help in this. Please feel free to keep the comments coming. I do get on as I can to read them. Any and all advice is very welcomed.

I use Hoppes for cleaning, boresnake for the bore. I pay close attention to cleaning the chamber, locking lugs & bcg. Flush w/non-chlorinated aerosol brake cleaner.
A couple of Q-tips and some old std & brass toothbrushes are all the tools I need.
For lube I use Mobil 1 0w-40 'European Formula', it's the only true full synthetic they sell that I'm aware of. I don't worry about over-lubing.
I clean after appx 1,000rds and throw in some extra lube at the 500rd mark.
With this routine, the only malfunction I have ever encountered with any of my AR's was a single dud rd of Wolf Gold (which, of course, happened at a class in the middle of a speed drill. )

Tomac

I have seen the idea of using a break cleaner several times. I am excited about using hope's as well as the oil (which seeing the type to use, I am going to do some research on it before purchasing)but what does the break cleaner do? Is it something good to add to the cleaning regiment?

Non-Chlorinated Break Cleaner is a "degreaser" kind of cleaner. Your steel will be BONE DRY after, so you would need to make sure to oil your parts afterwards.

Been shooting (and cleaning) AR's for 20+ years.

Short range sessions, nothing gets done except a little extra CLP on the BCG to replace what was flung or burnt off.

Long range sessions, wipe the crud off the BCG, squirt some down the barrel and pull the bore snake through a couple times, and re-lube with CLP.

2-3 times a year I do a good cleaning with Hoppes. I give a good cleaning of the bore with patches and a brush. I chamber brush the shit out of the chamber, also with Hoppes. And I scrub the disassembled BCG with an old tooth brush and, again, use Hoppes. Wipe everything dry,  re-lube with CLP, and a little grease on the parts of the BCG that slide in the upper.

YMMV, but my stuff runs and runs, and looks no worse for the wear.

That's actually not a bad procedure.

I skip the detail cleaning, though. You just have to keep them lubed and they'll run forever.

The information here has been amazing. I am impressed. I knew that I didn't know a lot, but now I KNOW I didn't know a lot !

So breaking down the lube points, I see that it has the symbols and what they mean. My question is that there are a couple that has the number 1 and a drop. I am assuming that is exactly what that means...one drop. Did I assume rightly?

Also, when I pull out the bullet carrier group to lube and oil it, I am going to break it down. Are there any springs or tension parts that I need to be aware of? I would hate to have something come flying out unexpectedly.

Thank you all again for your help. I am learning a lot.

I use Slip 2000 exclusively because they play along so well.  The system I have settled on after a year of experimenting is:

1. Clean the weapon with EWL.
2. Wipe everything dry with a microfiber cloth.
3. Apply EWL30 to wherever the manual calls for gun oil.

Cleaning the weapon with standard EWL has a cycle of benefit as it:

1. Excels at tearing down carbon from the last range session.
2. Leaves a residue behind that resists carbon build up during the next one.
3. Provides corrosion resistance.

EWL30 has no issue adhering to a surface that has been cleaned with standard EWL.  Neither does EWG (grease).

Sorry for the delay. I was out of state. I am going to try dig a little deeper. Ewl30, is that slip2000 or something else? Is it cheaper than 0w-30 motor oil? It looks like you have ewl and ewl30...different? Thank you. 

I do have two important questions though, so, I am sorry if it sounds redundant.

First, cutting your own patches, are there any negatives that I need to avoid? How do you know what is the proper size? If it can help me save money...I am game !

Second, taking apart the bcg, are there any springs or parts that can fly off if I am not prepare? I don't want to have to buy another part right now.

Thank you all again so much. I am going to at least try and use every method and product to find what I like best. As always, any help to either the above two questions or anything else in general about this topic will be most appreciated.

CLP is all you need.

This.

CLP = cleaner, lubricant, protectant

it will help clean carbon, it will lubricate your BCG, and it will protect against rust.  You can find some specialized chemicals that will do some of these functions very well, but CLP is a good all-purpose solution.

After a good initial cleaning, shoot your rifle.  Make sure your BCG stays lubed.  Field strip and clean every few hundred rounds if you like or if you experience groups opening up or failures to cycle.

Get a bottle of CLP, a boresnake, and a brush for the chamber.  A scraper tool will help you clean the nooks and crannies of your bolt carrier group.

Don't make it harder than it has to be.  Happy shooting!

So the CLP will do everything that the Hoppe's bore cleaner and Mobile 1 will do? I have heard that burn off is possible. Is that the case with CLP and how do I know when that starts to happen? Thanks again.

Nonsense.

Are there other lubes that stay "wetter" longer?  Yes.  However, you aint going into the sandbox, for days at a time and thousands of rounds.  I have been using CLP and nothing else for 17 years now, and never needed anything else.  You have some solid recommendations above from lubes that *might* exceed the performance of CLP.... for for me it is a "who cares".  I have never had a lube related failure using CLP, and seen LOTS of lube related failures in the field and competition from people using grease or snake oil of the day.

No need to overthink it.

I'd be hard pressed to think of an oil you can put on a barrel that won't smoke if you get it good and hot. 

Hoppes is nice stuff.  It smells pretty.  Lots of people like it.  I think people get confirmation bias because they pay a lot for it.

I've spent lots of money chasing the coolest, best new thing.  I keep coming back to CLP.  I think Breakfree CLP is the best all around value for my AR rifles and standard ammo.

There are some specialty cleaners out there (e.g. Copper removers and such) the benchrest and service rifle shooters use.  I'm not in their league chasing the last 1/8th MOA at 600 yards, so I can't comment.  I'm just a Joe who likes to shoot his rifles.

As anyone can see there are about as many brands of oil and cleaning methods out there as there are guys   shooting ARs.


I personally like CLP (I use the Breakfree brand) for the ease of use ,both cleaning and lubeing with one product. Lots of other stuff works  fine also.Buy the CLP mail order by the pint and it is reasonable,buy the tiny bottle at the local gun store and the effective cost is about $200 a gallon

Couple of other points---
Many oils and powder solvents like Hoppes clean dirt and powder fouling but they don't do much for copper fouling which will build up over time from the bullet jackets. Every 1000 rounds or so I like to soak and patch the barrel  with a dedicated copper solvent.I favor Butche's Bore Scrub or Sweets 7.62  . My one RRNM match rifle will get this every couple hundred rounds. Good stinky stuff from the amonnia!


In all my years shooting ARs and hanging at the range the only ARs that had any lubrication issues were ones that had no visible oil at all. Couple of drops from my CLP bottle or a few drips from somebody's dipstick and the dry cranky gun was running fine in no time.

A ar is designed to run "wet". This is supposed to keep the dirt in suspension.

Ar's don't really need a whole lot of special care to run well. A full auto M16 that might get run hard and hot in a nasty sandy place might be a different story but the average AR is just a M16 at a rest camp

It seems that I am really overthinking (my wife says that I am too analytical ). I think that a good copper solvent, the breakfree clp rods and my own cut patches should do the job for every part including the necessary lube from the tacked article above. Is that an accurate assessment? Thanks again and sorry if my questions bother anyone. If the answer to the above is yes, then I will start with that. Thanks again.

My lube of choice is 1 qt 5w-30 Mobile 1, 1 qt synthetic transmission fluid, and half bottle of oil stabilizer.   Mix it into a 1 gallon water jug and fill up small bottles as needed.  Never have had a stoppage using this mix and I run my gun dripping wet.

Usually do a pretty good wipe down after a range session and then lube again for storage. Run a 5.56 boresnake through barrel few times and good to go.

No springs are under pressure enough to hurt you.  When you break your bolt down to clean don't remove your ejector.  No need. Follow the army Manuel instructions and you will be fine. Watch as few YouTube videos on cleaning the ar15.  Don't necessarily buy into everything to watch but you can learn  a lot .. I've seen some videos and have to say WTF  when it was done . It's a simple and easy rifle to maintain . You'll laugh at yourself a year from now.  .

I would just order a bag of 1000 patches. Just to get started.  Midway is a good place to order from .It ain't much. As far as cutting patches and worried about strings and such.   You should have seen the stringy patches we was given in the army got clean our m16 a1's with.  Hey cleaning with hoppes and lubeing with motor pool is fine .praboly  the cheapest way to go. But a good clp  is fine also. I use break free. Have since then early 1980's  it has always did a decent job.  The spray can is really good for cleaning. It thin. I prefer the bottles . Thicker. But buy a bigger one. It gets  cheaper  when buy a larger container.  Cheers wardawg

I use Hoppes solvent on an M16 cleaning brush.  A regular toothbrush also works.

Then wipe things off with a paper towel.

I use oil for parts I cannot take apart; such as the little hinge on the charging handle; because oil migrates.

I use grease for the parts I can take apart; the cam pin, the sliding surfaces of the bolt carrier group within the upper receiver; any component I can wrap my fingers around.  For little things, like the firing pin, I rub the grease between my fingers and then rub it on the pin.

I've started using Lubriplate oil and grease.

After buying every oil and solvent I set my eyes on over the years I have settled on the following and it works for me:

Hoppes Number 9 for bore cleaning
Pro Shot or Shooters Choice patches
Tipton rods for the rifles
Bore Snakes for the pistols
Wilson Combat oil
Slip 2000 oil
Slip 2000 EWL and Grease for bolt carriers
Safari Charlie's for general spray lube and wipe down
Birchwood Casey degreaser

In my range bag I keep a bottle of Wilson lube and a small can of Tetra spray lube.

77

Hoppes #9 for cleaning
Mobil 1 for lube.

Nothing gets cleaned at the range..

When I get home.. I might wipe down ... add some oil. back in the case till the next time

Once a year.. A one piece rod gets ran thru.

Hell, I ran a 3 day course once.. went thru 1200 rds.. add oil once every morning... cleaned it when I got home...

Good mags.. Ammo and lube.. no magic. no bore snakes or Otis... no dental pics or scrappers... none of the silly shit the Army taught me.

I do learn a lot from what I watch. However, the amount of information that I have gained here far exceeds all of that! I have come to the realization that you all have more information than I could even begin to discover! Thank you so much for the help on this. I will be taking my .300 WM and my 556 out shooting this afternoon and then do a good breakdown and cleaning. After looking at prices online and in the store, right now, cheapest is the best way for me to go and it looks as though the Mobil 1 synthetic and the hoppe's will be the start.

After that, I will then look at moving into the CLP and trying that out. I do still have some regular patches and I do have my rod's that I have used, so I will start there as well. This is not to discredit any of the other advice, for I will put everything together and experiment. Hopefully, I will get to the point where I will be able to help someone else out one day.

I am in complete appreciation for all that you guys have helped me with. The resources and information here is great! This will probably be my last outing for a while as moving date is coming up quick . Any and all advice is still appreciated and wanted.

Yes, EWL and EWL30 are different.  EWL is thin and gets in every little nook and cranny.  EWL30 is thicker and stays in place.

And is it cheaper than motor oil?  Fuck no!  It's expensive.  But you get what you pay for, and I have never been able to make it burn off from heat.  It has a flashpoint of 1,290 F.  I've also never had carbon adhere to a surface that has been cleaned with it a few times.

EWL30 is really good lube.

I like Qmaxx black for my rifles and blu for my OU shotguns. It isn't cheap but neither are my investments.