User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 4/21/2017 10:56:52 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have been running mine the same way. No issues for the last 10 years except when I tried Froglube. Remember when that was all the rage? The coldest I have shot in was 10° F and it worked fine. Just keep the film of grease nice and thin and you won't have any issues. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I use Superlube white clearish grease on my bolt and carrier. It just stays there and works flawlessly when I need it to. Cleans up super easy. The coldest I have shot in was 10° F and it worked fine. Just keep the film of grease nice and thin and you won't have any issues. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/21/2017 12:09:52 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have been running mine the same way. No issues for the last 10 years except when I tried Froglube. Remember when that was all the rage? The coldest I have shot in was 10° F and it worked fine. Just keep the film of grease nice and thin and you won't have any issues. CLP and such you just hose it down and let it leak out. Grease you really can use to much and actually cause issues with the rifle. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/21/2017 2:11:34 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The issue I find with grease is that it takes more knowledge of the workings of the weapon to use properly. CLP and such you just hose it down and let it leak out. Grease you really can use to much and actually cause issues with the rifle. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I have been running mine the same way. No issues for the last 10 years except when I tried Froglube. Remember when that was all the rage? The coldest I have shot in was 10° F and it worked fine. Just keep the film of grease nice and thin and you won't have any issues. CLP and such you just hose it down and let it leak out. Grease you really can use to much and actually cause issues with the rifle. and yet the Air Force lets High school graduates change engines on multimillion dollar aircraft.... Since I'm just a HS grad and not a Lubricity Engineer, I'll stick to Mobil one...and hope my AR works... 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/22/2017 6:31:31 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Oh Puhleese.... You need to be a AR SME to use grease, and the rest of us dolts have to use oil... and yet the Air Force lets High school graduates change engines on multimillion dollar aircraft.... Since I'm just a HS grad and not a Lubricity Engineer, I'll stick to Mobil one...and hope my AR works... |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/28/2017 8:37:30 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just use Break Free CLP and it looks about the same. I don't see a need for grease in an AR, like the M1/M14 require, but to each his own. Meanwhile, the AR-15 has multiple engagement surfaces which are buried deep inside the receiver and bolt carrier. Its more important that the ideal lube flows into all those cracks and crevices. During an extended firing session, as in a day-long firefight, the usual method for keeping your rifle going is to squirt some oil into the two little vent holes in the exposed side of the carrier. Nothing like that applies to the old M1 and M14 designs. So it goes, grease for the traditional battle rifles, oil for the new AR pattern "assault" rifles. For the latter, my favorite is 10W-30 Mobil 1, mixed with a small amount of STP for added stickiness. - CW |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/28/2017 11:43:49 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This raises a secondary question - Why do the M1 and M14 designs need grease as a lube, while the AR designs need oil? I believe it has to do with the engagement surfaces of the reciprocating parts. Note that the M1's primary engagements surfaces are the grooves/rails the bolt and op rod move back and forth in. The ideal lube is thick enough to stay put and resistant to evaporation. In my case its the same moly lube I use on AR barrel nuts. Meanwhile, the AR-15 has multiple engagement surfaces which are buried deep inside the receiver and bolt carrier. Its more important that the ideal lube flows into all those cracks and crevices. During an extended firing session, as in a day-long firefight, the usual method for keeping your rifle going is to squirt some oil into the two little vent holes in the exposed side of the carrier. Nothing like that applies to the old M1 and M14 designs. So it goes, grease for the traditional battle rifles, oil for the new AR pattern "assault" rifles. For the latter, my favorite is 10W-30 Mobil 1, mixed with a small amount of STP for added stickiness. - CW Only the cam pin is slightly burried deep within the receiver and grease works significantly better there. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/28/2017 7:37:06 PM EDT
[#7]
Grease won't make it any cleaner.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/29/2017 1:08:13 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Grease won't make it any cleaner. Most likely due to the fact that the burnt powder doesn't get caught up in a metric ton of oil. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/29/2017 1:40:20 AM EDT
[#9]
Greasing the backs of the bolt lugs seems like absolute worst spot to put grease. It's hard enough to clean the chamber good, even with a chamber brush. I can't imagine the goo that would build up insie the chamber mating surface (whatever that's called?). No thanks.
Oil works great because you can wipe it off real easy with the same old rag a hundred times. It definitely does dry out after a few weeks though. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/29/2017 9:09:04 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Huh? The main engagement surfaces are the 4 carrier rails, cam pin, and rear of the bolt lugs. Only the cam pin is slightly burried deep within the receiver and grease works significantly better there. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/3/2017 2:17:48 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
joglee: You forgot to mention the bolt, buried deep inside the carrier and moving back and forth and twisting with each shot. For good reason, several generations of military trigger pullers have settled on the conventional wisdom of "grease for the Garand and oil for the AR". Based on my observations of how each rifle design works, I am inclined to follow their advice. - CW Quote HistoryQuoted:
joglee: You forgot to mention the bolt, buried deep inside the carrier and moving back and forth and twisting with each shot. For good reason, several generations of military trigger pullers have settled on the conventional wisdom of "grease for the Garand and oil for the AR". Based on my observations of how each rifle design works, I am inclined to follow their advice. - CW If you pay close attention to your rifle parts you will see which parts have friction points. The gas rings, bolt support ring, and bolt lugs are the only parts of the bolt that see any friction...aside from the tail which is more to create a seal and a guide for the firing pin. Also I suggest you do this test. Take one magazine and fire it through your rifle, pull the bolt and tell me how much oil is left on the bolt tail and gas rings...The answer will be none. To much pressure and heat for any oil to be maintained within the expansion chamber of the AR. The only part of the bolt able to maintain oil is the bolt lugs, and the bolt support ring and north. Here's a good image to illustrate what I mean. This was after 500 rounds according to the photo taker. Pay close attention to where oil has remained after 500 rounds. 
Here's one after 200 rounds. Again same exact area is dry with no oil, I think you would be shocked to learn just how fast that area dries out. However it doesn't matter because it mostly floats in an empty area within the carrier. 
Lastly as you can see here, the bolt support ring north of the cam pin, and the gas rings are the only thing inside the carrier making contact with the chrome lining.(Ignore the dirt enters, it was a google image) 
Quoted:
Greasing the backs of the bolt lugs seems like absolute worst spot to put grease. It's hard enough to clean the chamber good, even with a chamber brush. I can't imagine the goo that would build up insie the chamber mating surface (whatever that's called?). No thanks. Oil works great because you can wipe it off real easy with the same old rag a hundred times. It definitely does dry out after a few weeks though. All that said, if Picatinnys new coating comes through one day oil and grease will be a thing of the past for the AR. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/3/2017 6:55:36 AM EDT
[#12]
Has anyone in this thread, that is sceptical of grease, actually used it in an effort to prove that it doesn't work?
Seriously guys, just try it. The worst you will be out is about 2 cents worth of grease instead of 2 cents worth of oil. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/3/2017 8:14:36 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Has anyone in this thread, that is sceptical of grease, actually used it in an effort to prove that it doesn't work? Seriously guys, just try it. The worst you will be out is about 2 cents worth of grease instead of 2 cents worth of oil. FWIW, my usual AR cleaning routine involves wiping off the outside of the carrier after every shooting session, typically about 40 rounds or so fired, and removing the bolt etc. from the BCG about every 150 rounds or so. It will be unscientific, but nonetheless useful in comparing friction reduction and cleanup with grease to the usual application of oil. thx - CW |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/3/2017 10:01:16 AM EDT
[#14]
Also q-tips are perfect for applying the grease only where you want it.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/3/2017 1:34:19 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good suggestion, Fritz. I think I'll try it out - moly grease on the points illustrated in the pics above, where remnants of oil remains after extended firing. FWIW, my usual AR cleaning routine involves wiping off the outside of the carrier after every shooting session, typically about 40 rounds or so fired, and removing the bolt etc. from the BCG about every 150 rounds or so. It will be unscientific, but nonetheless useful in comparing friction reduction and cleanup with grease to the usual application of oil. thx - CW Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Has anyone in this thread, that is sceptical of grease, actually used it in an effort to prove that it doesn't work? Seriously guys, just try it. The worst you will be out is about 2 cents worth of grease instead of 2 cents worth of oil. FWIW, my usual AR cleaning routine involves wiping off the outside of the carrier after every shooting session, typically about 40 rounds or so fired, and removing the bolt etc. from the BCG about every 150 rounds or so. It will be unscientific, but nonetheless useful in comparing friction reduction and cleanup with grease to the usual application of oil. thx - CW I use to be like you... many years ago... felt the need to clean every time... (Thanks Uncle Sam... ya bastard...  )
But then I got smart.. and realized... I don't need to... I hardly ever clean my AR's... and I shoot a few thousand rds a year thru them. You know why I don't try grease??? because I don't need to take apart my rifles every time I shoot them, I just add a few drops of oil... and off I go... You can all clean you guns ... I'm shooting. and in a few years, when the grease fad comes back around.... I'll still be using Mobile one. And the funny part... the Grease guys... are just like the oil guys with there different brands... And I'm still on the same 1 quart bottle of Mobil 1 from 5 years ago.... |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/3/2017 5:36:11 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There is your problem... Your ADD. I use to be like you... many years ago... felt the need to clean every time... (Thanks Uncle Sam... ya bastard... )
But then I got smart.. and realized... I don't need to... I hardly ever clean my AR's... and I shoot a few thousand rds a year thru them. You know why I don't try grease??? because I don't need to take apart my rifles every time I shoot them, I just add a few drops of oil... and off I go... You can all clean you guns ... I'm shooting. and in a few years, when the grease fad comes back around.... I'll still be using Mobile one. And the funny part... the Grease guys... are just like the oil guys with there different brands... And I'm still on the same 1 quart bottle of Mobil 1 from 5 years ago.... However I spend maybe 10 minutes doing so. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/3/2017 6:36:51 PM EDT
[#17]
Harv: In my case its not ADD or even OCD, I actually enjoy cleaning my rifles. This is possibly a leftover from incessant operant conditioning during my Regular Army days.
As you mentioned, there is little fouling to be found after 40 rounds, but I like to reapply lube to the carrier and clean the bore and chamber. I never know how long a particular rifle is going to be sitting unused, and the relative humidity in my house is usually in excess of 50%. Modern primers and powder are "non-corrosive", but that doesn't immunize the rifle from some risk of corrosion. Curiously, the dirtiest part of an AR-15, even after 20 rounds, is the chamber. Since my carefully sized .223 and 6.8 cases are a rather snug fit inside their respective chambers, I like to keep those chambers squeaky clean. That's my style - CW |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/4/2017 6:32:20 AM EDT
[#18]
With only 40 rounds fired, you likely will not see any difference in wear unless your rifle is messed up.
The only thing you should notice is that there isn't dirty oil all over, but dirty grease, right where you applied it originally. The powder residue on the dry parts should wipe away, if any even collected. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/20/2017 12:28:40 PM EDT
[#19]
CLP has worked for me for years and I don't see any need to change.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/21/2017 2:14:10 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
CLP has worked for me for years and I don't see any need to change. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/21/2017 8:43:07 AM EDT
[#21]
Dallas at cherrybalmz weapon lube has a very well written section on lubes and why grease is better than oils in a number of applications. IMO, the use of CLP has nothing to do with it being better, or even as good as a grease, it all comes down to ease of application and money. Remember, Mil spec just means it was made by the lowest bidder.
http://www.cherrybalmz.com/educate-yourself-the-science |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/21/2017 8:51:48 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dallas at cherrybalmz weapon lube has a very well written section on lubes and why grease is better than oils in a number of applications. IMO, the use of CLP has nothing to do with it being better, or even as good as a grease, it all comes down to ease of application and money. Remember, Mil spec just means it was made by the lowest bidder.
http://www.cherrybalmz.com/educate-yourself-the-science
Another overpriced, and over hyped product for suckers.. I guess they had to go with that name as Gun Butter and Frog lube were already taken... 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/21/2017 10:03:02 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You mean the gas rings? If you pay close attention to your rifle parts you will see which parts have friction points. The gas rings, bolt support ring, and bolt lugs are the only parts of the bolt that see any friction...aside from the tail which is more to create a seal and a guide for the firing pin. Also I suggest you do this test. Take one magazine and fire it through your rifle, pull the bolt and tell me how much oil is left on the bolt tail and gas rings...The answer will be none. To much pressure and heat for any oil to be maintained within the expansion chamber of the AR. The only part of the bolt able to maintain oil is the bolt lugs, and the bolt support ring and north. Here's a good image to illustrate what I mean. This was after 500 rounds according to the photo taker. Pay close attention to where oil has remained after 500 rounds. http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/18_Zulu/DirtyBolt.jpg Here's one after 200 rounds. Again same exact area is dry with no oil, I think you would be shocked to learn just how fast that area dries out. However it doesn't matter because it mostly floats in an empty area within the carrier. http://www.colinsun.com/Colin/nfblog/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/IMG_7279.jpg Lastly as you can see here, the bolt support ring north of the cam pin, and the gas rings are the only thing inside the carrier making contact with the chrome lining.(Ignore the dirt enters, it was a google image) https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7305/16396661359_9aa91dde35_b.jpg It doesn't, a thin coat is all you need. No reason to drown your AR in grease. All that said, if Picatinnys new coating comes through one day oil and grease will be a thing of the past for the AR. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/21/2017 10:14:16 AM EDT
[#24]
I agree, grease is the way to go if you have the time. CLP works if you need to get lube in the thing ASAP.
I just use generic moly-lithium high pressure grease. I also use it on my sig. I like how it stays put. Is it the best? IDK. But IMHO it works well and I like not getting a mouth of CLP taste when I shoot. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/21/2017 1:51:00 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Gee.. an Article written about the virtues of grease for AR's.. by a Company that makes,market's and sells Grease...
Another overpriced, and over hyped product for suckers.. I guess they had to go with that name as Gun Butter and Frog lube were already taken... |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/21/2017 4:26:16 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You know how i know you didn't bother to read the article? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Gee.. an Article written about the virtues of grease for AR's.. by a Company that makes,market's and sells Grease...
Another overpriced, and over hyped product for suckers.. I guess they had to go with that name as Gun Butter and Frog lube were already taken... |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/21/2017 6:13:07 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There is your problem... Your ADD. I use to be like you... many years ago... felt the need to clean every time... (Thanks Uncle Sam... ya bastard... )
But then I got smart.. and realized... I don't need to... I hardly ever clean my AR's... and I shoot a few thousand rds a year thru them. You know why I don't try grease??? because I don't need to take apart my rifles every time I shoot them, I just add a few drops of oil... and off I go... You can all clean you guns ... I'm shooting. and in a few years, when the grease fad comes back around.... I'll still be using Mobile one. And the funny part... the Grease guys... are just like the oil guys with there different brands... And I'm still on the same 1 quart bottle of Mobil 1 from 5 years ago.... |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/22/2017 11:52:47 AM EDT
[#28]
I've been using grease on my stuff for a couple years now. Slowly switched over to it, one gun at a time as I discovered it was letting me go longer between relube and cleaning. I picked up a 4oz squeeze bottle of a lightweight grease marketed for gun use at a local store. Works great, easy to use, let's me continue to be lazy. This Cherrybalmz stuff seems to have just the right mix of runny and sticky. Between competition, product development, and demo shoots, I shoot the same guns frequently, and I live in the desert.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/22/2017 11:55:40 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Spot on. The people that really shoot don't worry about this sort of thing. Grease gums up and oil keeps moving longer. Grease is simply oil with thickeners like chalk and/or soap added. Do you even chemistry, bro? |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/22/2017 1:14:21 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Odd how you never post pics of your own stuff... 
Notice how clean my bolt tail is? This is after 3,000 rounds. No scraping at all as I don't believe in cleaning my gun parts with steel tools. 
Also please let this remain technical. And if you check my OP you would see pictures. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/22/2017 3:32:02 PM EDT
[#31]
The silly arguments we get into on this site are hilarious.
The rifle was designed for oil.....so I use oil. Never had a problem with oil so why change? |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/22/2017 3:36:27 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The silly arguments we get into on this site are hilarious. The rifle was designed for oil.....so I use oil. Never had a problem with oil so why change? Or did we decide oil is the best because the military decided it need a Cleaner, Lubricant, and Protectant all in one. Which basically means only a liquid oil will work. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/22/2017 4:14:49 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Holy shit, you're completely wrong about grease being oil with thickeners in it. Hydrocarbon chain length (on a molecular basis) is what determines if it is a volatile organic compound, oil, or grease. Here's a cliff notes on that topic. Do you even chemistry, bro? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Spot on. The people that really shoot don't worry about this sort of thing. Grease gums up and oil keeps moving longer. Grease is simply oil with thickeners like chalk and/or soap added. Do you even chemistry, bro? Gun lubricants shouldn't flow, that's where jeff is mistaken. If your lubricant is flowing it won't be on the surfaces it needs to be very long. The reality is that a light grease or a heavy oil will both lubricate well enough for an AR. The marginal differences come down to how often the weapon is cleaned or how often the lubricant is reapplied. I don't like having to do either of those things so I use grease. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/22/2017 4:16:42 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I like grease and am a mechanical engineer, but this post almost makes me want to switch to oil. Oil is used in non closed systems all the time, it migrates easily to hard to reach areas, and is easy to apply. How is that hard to understand? Do you grease your door hinges? What about bike chains? Studied in the lubricity engineering arts... We aren't talking about kung fu styles here. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Anyone who has studied in the lubricity engineering arts. I never understood using oil on a non closed system. Oil leaking out from slides, pins etc isn't doing anyone any good. Studied in the lubricity engineering arts... We aren't talking about kung fu styles here. 
I like a little grease on the trigger contact points and carrier rails, and a hefty dose of lube/oil everywhere else. If it's the middle of winter, I do stick to the lube more. Grease should not be used in the Firing Pin channel or on the firing pin, imo. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/22/2017 4:26:41 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good suggestion, Fritz. I think I'll try it out - moly grease on the points illustrated in the pics above, where remnants of oil remains after extended firing. FWIW, my usual AR cleaning routine involves wiping off the outside of the carrier after every shooting session, typically about 40 rounds or so fired, and removing the bolt etc. from the BCG about every 150 rounds or so. It will be unscientific, but nonetheless useful in comparing friction reduction and cleanup with grease to the usual application of oil. thx - CW Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Has anyone in this thread, that is sceptical of grease, actually used it in an effort to prove that it doesn't work? Seriously guys, just try it. The worst you will be out is about 2 cents worth of grease instead of 2 cents worth of oil. FWIW, my usual AR cleaning routine involves wiping off the outside of the carrier after every shooting session, typically about 40 rounds or so fired, and removing the bolt etc. from the BCG about every 150 rounds or so. It will be unscientific, but nonetheless useful in comparing friction reduction and cleanup with grease to the usual application of oil. thx - CW |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/22/2017 5:11:30 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Holy shit, you're completely wrong about grease being oil with thickeners in it. Hydrocarbon chain length (on a molecular basis) is what determines if it is a volatile organic compound, oil, or grease. Here's a cliff notes on that topic. Do you even chemistry, bro? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Spot on. The people that really shoot don't worry about this sort of thing. Grease gums up and oil keeps moving longer. Grease is simply oil with thickeners like chalk and/or soap added. Do you even chemistry, bro? 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/22/2017 6:48:57 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Spot on. The people that really shoot don't worry about this sort of thing. Grease gums up and oil keeps moving longer. Grease is simply oil with thickeners like chalk and/or soap added. Do you even chemistry, bro? @jefflebowski , you have my most abject apologies, dude. I'm used to only looking at hydrocarbons from a carbon chain perspective, as related to doing environmental mitigation and remediation. Time to go educate myself. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/22/2017 7:15:45 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Fuck. I hate learning new things, and I hate when I'm proven to be not right, and worse yet wrong. @jefflebowski , you have my most abject apologies, dude. I'm used to only looking at hydrocarbons from a carbon chain perspective, as related to doing environmental mitigation and remediation. Time to go educate myself. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/22/2017 9:42:06 PM EDT
[#39]
Here are my two bolts after about 1500 rds over the past 12 months or so.. Notice how clean the tails are.... oh wait.. there not... I just added some more oil....
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/31/2017 5:02:22 AM EDT
[#40]
grease freezes
up here temps can reach -30 during hunting season oil is the only way to go |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/31/2017 9:56:41 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My guns clean right now. But if if makes you feel better. http://i.imgur.com/oqwejfc.jpg Notice how clean my bolt tail is? This is after 3,000 rounds. No scraping at all as I don't believe in cleaning my gun parts with steel tools. http://oi65.tinypic.com/2zgw955.jpg Also please let this remain technical. And if you check my OP you would see pictures. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/31/2017 4:27:46 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
grease freezes up here temps can reach -30 during hunting season oil is the only way to go Unless you use a grease/oil designed to operate at -45. Which I do. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/31/2017 4:39:38 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
3000 rounds and no carbon build up on the bolt tail? thats hard to believe. I once read an archived thread here by a member named AFSOC. He's the one who got me started trying grease. This is his story. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_8_32/413935_.html Notice how after 200-250 rounds the chrome BCG looks practically unfired? 
That thread and pictures are why I tried grease in the first place. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/14/2017 1:12:00 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've been using tw25b and really like it. Cleans up nicely too. There was an epic thread along time ago on his lordship Mike Packwood's site that include Eno's Slide Glide and a bunch of other shit. The was when Lunde was still welcome there. A TW-25B base + a light coat of oil was a lot of people favorite. I just use grease. I think Bruce Grey uses grease too. You just have to make sure you read the instructions and clean with alcohol. I used the wipes from first aid kits. They have a very clear instruction on how to lube a AR rifle. I think a lot of people balk at the price. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/27/2017 8:11:29 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
TW-25B. Works on Dillon's; works on everything I own. Just clean with alcohol before application. I don't use solvents such as alcohol. MC-25 is pretty mild and still cleans. Yea yea I know but solvents are a carrier that will transfer what's in it into your body. Carb cleaner get a pass. So I'm looking to see how this stuff works in an AR. I have never seen a threat that said my weapon seized after x rounds using x cleaner. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/26/2017 10:21:59 AM EDT
[#46]
I use grease on my guns when I put them in the safe. Oil runs, grease stays put.
When I am shooting I use the ALG Purple if needed. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/26/2017 11:47:15 AM EDT
[#47]
Im surprised there's so much debate here.
Grease works. Oil works. Motor oil works. Just put something on your bolt and go shoot it. I use CLP, white lithium grease or Royal Purple motor oil depending on my mood. Overwhelmingly CLP, though. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/1/2017 2:52:08 PM EDT
[#48]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/2/2017 6:52:42 AM EDT
[#49]
Are you running your locking lugs and cam pin dry?
Still getting about the same results that I do. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/2/2017 8:26:45 AM EDT
[#50]
My DI AR15's get too much crud blown back into the action for me (ME) to use grease. I feel the need to disassemble and clean/re-lube after each range session.
I believe a piston AR15 would be much more "friendly" to using grease. I have a SIG 556R and the grease used (marine grade bearing grease) lasts up to a year and is still nice a green on the receiver rails, bolt body, etc. Just gets a little dark near the bolt lugs/chamber area and I wipe that off and reapply some grease now and then. I've got an Superlative Arms adjustable gas block on my DPMS GII and the receiver is staying really clean, compared to my AR15's. At this point I don't know if it's just a .308 vs. .223 thing or the gas block (set to vent excess gas vs. restrict gas flow to the bolt key) is making the difference. I'm thinking about two things. One is trying grease on the GII and the other is getting a Superlative Arms adjustable gas block for one of the AR15's to see if it will keep it cleaner back in the receiver. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
Attached File
Attached File
Attached File