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Posted: 11/14/2016 2:18:04 PM EDT
[#1]
Next to citristrip I use it to remove paint from my guns n parts. As far as cleaning I don't see why not but that is what I use CLP for.
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Posted: 11/14/2016 2:21:28 PM EDT
[#2]
It works well with some 80 grit to get rid of Poison Ivy.
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Posted: 11/14/2016 2:27:41 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It works well with some 80 grit to get rid of Poison Ivy. OK, I chuckled, but this ain't GD. I typically stay away from brake cleaner on my guns unless there is some caked-on grease in a hard to reach area that needs blasting out. Keep it away from any wood or plastic parts. |
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Posted: 11/14/2016 2:59:47 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OK, I chuckled, but this ain't GD. I typically stay away from brake cleaner on my guns unless there is some caked-on grease in a hard to reach area that needs blasting out. Keep it away from any wood or plastic parts. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
It works well with some 80 grit to get rid of Poison Ivy. OK, I chuckled, but this ain't GD. I typically stay away from brake cleaner on my guns unless there is some caked-on grease in a hard to reach area that needs blasting out. Keep it away from any wood or plastic parts. Posted without paying attention. Apologies OP. |
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Posted: 11/14/2016 3:03:06 PM EDT
[#5]
If I have a complicated rimfire handgun that is getting pretty gritty, I remove the grips and give it a good hosing down and then hit it with 100psi air. Add oil and return to service.
I have also used it to degrease a rifle for a rattle can paint job. |
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Posted: 11/14/2016 9:02:32 PM EDT
[#6]
If I feel like getting super clean, I'll use it.
Usually use CLP or "Bore cleaner, rifle", most often the latter. Wipe out all the old lube and junk, within reason. Spray on to moisten (solvent/cleaner of choice). Walk away for a few minutes. Scrub with a brush. Wipe out as much cleaner and junk as possible. Q tip, then spray down with brake cleaner as a finisher. Reapply lube of choice (I like marine grease, $5/tube at walmart). It's not a primary cleaning device to me, but a detailer. As suggested above, I too like to use it pre-painting. Could also be used if you are switching between major lube brands/types and are concerned about cross contamination. |
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Posted: 11/14/2016 11:05:58 PM EDT
[#7]
Every now and then, when the ARs get really grubby in the corners and crevices I'll squirt the carb or brake cleaner in there to break up and blow that stuff out. I usually put a shot or two down the gas tube, too.
Once it dries I hit it with some spray oil (usually rem-oil) to put some oil back on the metal surfaces so I don't get rust. Then I wipe it down with an oily rag with mobil one in it. Carb cleaner will melt some rubber/plastic. I've not seen it damage the plastic on an A2 butt stock or pistol grip but I still try to keep it off there by holding the lower/upper at the right angle. |
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Posted: 11/15/2016 12:55:02 AM EDT
[#8]
I use it to degrease before painting. You can clean with it if that's your thing but that's way overkill.
For a filthy BCG like described it could definitely help. Have you looked at NiB BCGs? BC doesn't melt Magpul or A2 style furniture IME but rapidly eats low end stuff. |
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Posted: 11/15/2016 1:33:58 AM EDT
[#9]
I actually use Non-chlorinated Brake cleaner a lot to clean. I use it to "rinse out" the lug area, bolt, and carrier and the trigger control group after cleaning with solvent. It blasts the small particulates out quick and easy leaving a very clean surface ready to oil. I use it for similar areas on pistols too. I think it is one of the best bang for buck to quickly clean and prep for oil. I usually get it for about $3.50 a can at Walmart, and a can lasts 3-4 cleanings.
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Posted: 11/15/2016 1:35:03 AM EDT
[#10]
Brake cleaner is the single best agent I've ever found to locate small cuts on my hands.
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Posted: 11/15/2016 2:13:51 AM EDT
[#11]
I use it constantly. I typically have 6 -10 cans onhand.
I use it to clean and flush bolt carrier groups mostly on AR's. I clean up my ammo cans with it.... it will remove paint like acetone, stickers, decals, painted surface lettering. I clean the oil off of scopes, small parts, before I use aluma-black or touch up marker. Anytime I need something flushed clean, or remove surface oil, it gets the brake cleaner. |
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Posted: 11/15/2016 2:14:53 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
BC doesn't melt Magpul or A2 style furniture IME but rapidly eats low end stuff. It absolutely DOES eat Gen 1 magpul PRS stocks.
But that's about the only gun plastic I have ever seen it have an impact on. I wipe down my stocks lightly with brake cleaner after cleaning a rifle - to remove all the handling oil I deposited on them while cleaning them up. I use it to clean up old A1/A2 stocks..... a rub down with Brake cleaner first - then a rub with light amount of WD40. Makes them look NICE. |
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Posted: 11/15/2016 4:03:05 AM EDT
[#13]
I stand corrected! It's never bothered any of my MOE parts.
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Posted: 11/15/2016 10:44:04 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I actually use Non-chlorinated Brake cleaner a lot to clean. I use it to "rinse out" the lug area, bolt, and carrier and the trigger control group after cleaning with solvent. It blasts the small particulates out quick and easy leaving a very clean surface ready to oil. I use it for similar areas on pistols too. I think it is one of the best bang for buck to quickly clean and prep for oil. I usually get it for about $3.50 a can at Walmart, and a can lasts 3-4 cleanings. Quote HistoryQuoted:
I actually use Non-chlorinated Brake cleaner a lot to clean. I use it to "rinse out" the lug area, bolt, and carrier and the trigger control group after cleaning with solvent. It blasts the small particulates out quick and easy leaving a very clean surface ready to oil. I use it for similar areas on pistols too. I think it is one of the best bang for buck to quickly clean and prep for oil. I usually get it for about $3.50 a can at Walmart, and a can lasts 3-4 cleanings. Quoted:
I use it to clean and flush bolt carrier groups mostly on AR's. Anytime I need something flushed clean, or remove surface oil, it gets the brake cleaner. This is exactly what I would like to use it for. Thanks. |
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Posted: 11/15/2016 11:02:09 AM EDT
[#15]
One word of caution. It removes all the oil, so you have to make sure you coat everything back if you use it, or you will have unprotected metal to rust, or worse, metal on metal contact. Just ensure you lube everything back up.
It makes quick work on bolt carriers. |
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Posted: 11/20/2016 1:17:21 AM EDT
[#16]
Works great for 240s and 249s, but you MUST re-oil every steel surface it touches. Not something I would use on my personal firearms aside from gas pistons, but have used it as a civilian to unfuck other people's neglected firearms as a part of the cleaning process.
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Posted: 11/20/2016 10:00:11 PM EDT
[#17]
Unless you're one of those people who believe every good gun oil must be motor oil, then I recommend just picking up a can of Gun Scrubber. Yes it will speed up cleaning.
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Posted: 11/21/2016 1:17:55 PM EDT
[#18]
I used it the other day to clean an carbine and pistol. I scrubbed everything down, then used non-chlorinated brake cleaner to blast all that crap off. Then I wiped parts down to remove all the brake cleaner, then relubed very well with Mobil 1. Guns feel like they're riding on ball bearings right now. Is this how yall do it?
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Unless you're one of those people who believe every good gun oil must be motor oil, then I recommend just picking up a can of Gun Scrubber. Yes it will speed up cleaning. Gun scrubber is better at cutting and blasting away crap than brake cleaner? |
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Posted: 11/21/2016 1:32:07 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Gun scrubber is better at cutting and blasting away crap than brake cleaner? No. Gun Scrubber is pretty much non-chlorinated brake cleaner that costs 3 times as much. 
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Posted: 11/21/2016 1:36:55 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I used it the other day to clean an carbine and pistol. I scrubbed everything down, then used non-chlorinated brake cleaner to blast all that crap off. Then I wiped parts down to remove all the brake cleaner, then relubed very well with Mobil 1. Guns feel like they're riding on ball bearings right now. Is this how yall do it? Here is what I do: If I use brake cleaner on something, like a pistol frame, bolt carrier, etc.... : I will flush the part really good outside in my driveway, because a lot of nasty gunk comes off. Then, I blast the part with compressed air to get all the brake cleaner off.... also because sometimes you will also get IMMEDIATE condensation on the part - because brake cleaner evaporates so fast the part gets cold. I used the compressed air to ensure this is all gone. Then I hose down the part with WD40, and blast it again with compressed air. This ensures I get all the metal surfaces coated again with a protectant. Then, I clean and lube as I normally would. It sounds like a lot of steps, but it literally takes less than *one minute*. It is so much faster than any other method I have tried over the years.... and I have been doing this a long time now. |
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Posted: 11/21/2016 6:38:14 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here is what I do: If I use brake cleaner on something, like a pistol frame, bolt carrier, etc.... : I will flush the part really good outside in my driveway, because a lot of nasty gunk comes off. Then, I blast the part with compressed air to get all the brake cleaner off.... also because sometimes you will also get IMMEDIATE condensation on the part - because brake cleaner evaporates so fast the part gets cold. I used the compressed air to ensure this is all gone. Then I hose down the part with WD40, and blast it again with compressed air. This ensures I get all the metal surfaces coated again with a protectant. Then, I clean and lube as I normally would. It sounds like a lot of steps, but it literally takes less than *one minute*. It is so much faster than any other method I have tried over the years.... and I have been doing this a long time now. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I used it the other day to clean an carbine and pistol. I scrubbed everything down, then used non-chlorinated brake cleaner to blast all that crap off. Then I wiped parts down to remove all the brake cleaner, then relubed very well with Mobil 1. Guns feel like they're riding on ball bearings right now. Is this how yall do it? Here is what I do: If I use brake cleaner on something, like a pistol frame, bolt carrier, etc.... : I will flush the part really good outside in my driveway, because a lot of nasty gunk comes off. Then, I blast the part with compressed air to get all the brake cleaner off.... also because sometimes you will also get IMMEDIATE condensation on the part - because brake cleaner evaporates so fast the part gets cold. I used the compressed air to ensure this is all gone. Then I hose down the part with WD40, and blast it again with compressed air. This ensures I get all the metal surfaces coated again with a protectant. Then, I clean and lube as I normally would. It sounds like a lot of steps, but it literally takes less than *one minute*. It is so much faster than any other method I have tried over the years.... and I have been doing this a long time now. Thanks. So you flush the part with brake cleaner before ever using a brush on it? It ate through the nitrile gloves I was wearing. Do I need to pay special attention to not get any residue or slight overspray on furniture? |
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Posted: 11/22/2016 1:20:08 PM EDT
[#22]
It's the same as the aerosol gun cleaners.
I use a lot of it. Flush the gun with it to get all the loose carbon and lube out first. Then I use Mpro-7 and a rag and brush to get the rest. The brake cleaner saves time, effort, and the more expensive cleaner when removing the loose crap from large areas. It's also good for getting gunk out from the smaller areas, corners, trigger groups, bolts. Good for degreasing before painting or cold bluing. |
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Posted: 11/22/2016 6:32:27 PM EDT
[#23]
brake cleaner is good for cleaning but it will strip the metal leaving it susceptible to rust, so in my opinion its fine as long as you use a protectorate after
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Posted: 12/1/2016 4:07:02 PM EDT
[#24]
I used to buy brake cleaner by the aerosol (CRC) can and then I wised up and bought a 1 gallon jug (much cheaper) and use a squirt bottle to clean guns, works great.
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Posted: 12/20/2016 5:54:31 AM EDT
[#25]
I use it the two times a year I really clean my guns. I call over my friend, we get drunk and clean guns. it's great.
Warm water, dawn dish shop, a tooth brush, small soft wire brush, and brake cleaner. Can't imagin I can get any cleaner then that. Then a light spray with rem oil which is rubbed down with a oily rag and a light application of mobile 1 synthetic to the nessesary oil channels on the bcg. I also apply a small amount of mobile 1 to the inside of the upper where the bcg rides and rub it down with a oily rag. Don't fix if it ain't broken. |
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Posted: 12/20/2016 6:20:47 AM EDT
[#26]
I use it for really dirty parts. Works great.
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Posted: 12/20/2016 9:02:42 AM EDT
[#27]
Fwiw, last can I checked of CRC non-chlorinated, it is mostly acetone.
When I don't need the spray, like for wiping down a brake rotor prior to install, it's much cheaper to use acetone and a paper towel from a big jug at home Depot for $10 than pay for the aerosol. For blowing junk out of your guns or brake parts, etc, the aerosol is still necessary. |
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