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Page AR-15 » Maintenance & Cleaning
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
Posted: 9/20/2016 6:13:39 PM EDT
I've heard this works well and stays in place. Also it doesn't burn off like oil or clp. Thoughts? Also would this work in cold weather?
Link Posted: 9/20/2016 6:36:45 PM EDT
[#1]
its also like a venus fly trap for grit
Link Posted: 9/20/2016 7:14:12 PM EDT
[#2]
Works great. I use super lube inside the bolt when I shoot a suppressed AR at a three gun competition...about 300 rounds in a day. It's about the only way I can guarantee no short strokes from a dried out bolt by the end of the day. Costs a few cents. I clean it off and reapply after the match.
Link Posted: 9/20/2016 8:37:31 PM EDT
[#3]
In use mobile 1 motor oil and it stays on and lasts.
Link Posted: 9/20/2016 8:39:35 PM EDT
[#4]
You can use grease, but the type and amount you use is key.



I would not want a super tacky grease, the internal friction would be un-needed and could cause your cycling BCG to slow down to the point of malfunction.



The primary point though is to only use a small amount.  You can get away with coating your whole BCG in a light oil and being fine, but slather on too much grease and you can gum up the works.



I have experimented with a few greases.  The PTFE/silicon based "super lube" grease is okay, and some low-temp #2 Li Complex grease has also worked well for me, but only applied lightly to key surfaces: the 4 contact rails on the carrier and a but on the bolt teeth.  I still use a light coat of oil on the bolt tail and area inside the carrier.





IMO it requires greater care applying and lacks the ease of field re-lubing that an oil gives you.  But on the plus side, it stays in place better, so it does have some merit.
Link Posted: 9/20/2016 8:58:14 PM EDT
[#5]
I use Magnalube on all my firearms. Stays put and carbon on an AR BCG wipes right off.
Link Posted: 9/20/2016 10:07:42 PM EDT
[#6]
Generally speaking grease thickens in colder weather and liquefies in warmer weather. Amount is the key.
Link Posted: 9/21/2016 10:34:08 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
its also like a venus fly trap for grit
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And oil dripping out of ever crack and crevice isn't?

Grease no more holds grit than oil does. They both retain plenty.

The difference is a good grease will be there 1,000 rounds from now and most oils will be long gone.

I use superlube grease with PTFE on every gun I own, Berettas, Glocks, 1911s, and ARs. They all get grease.

The key is not slathering it on every inch of your gun, it's just not needed. Put some on the carrier rails and bolt alignment ring and your good to go.

Same for handguns, just put some on the frame rails.
Link Posted: 9/21/2016 11:32:48 AM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Works great. I use super lube inside the bolt when I shoot a suppressed AR at a three gun competition...about 300 rounds in a day. It's about the only way I can guarantee no short strokes from a dried out bolt by the end of the day. Costs a few cents. I clean it off and reapply after the match.
View Quote

Are you running a very minimal gas tuned system? Even bone dry you should be able to do low round counts.
Link Posted: 9/21/2016 5:42:04 PM EDT
[#9]
i used slip 2000 grease in an AR15 and it didnt like it. seemed to slow the carrier speed to much and would short stroke. this was an LWRC M6A3 upper that i had cut back to 12.5" and the gas prot was on the edge of being too small.

never tried it on my DI stuff.
Link Posted: 9/21/2016 8:23:07 PM EDT
[#10]
I used Super Lube oil and grease on my own and customer guns for years.
Guns seem to work smoother and wear is reduced.
It stays where it's put and won't run off, dry out, sling off, wick out, or evaporate.
I've opened up customer guns after 10 years and it was still in place and still working.

Super Lube is a clear-white synthetic Teflon bearing lube.
It's good from -45 to +450.
The grease is a moderately stiff type and the oil is a thick oil/thin grease consistency.
Either or both work very well in most firearms.
One advantage is when it gets fouled it turns gray as an indication it's time to change it out.

In the AR I use it on the bolt carrier rails and cam pin and cam slot, the bolt locking lugs, hammer face, and hammer-trigger-sear interfaces.  Also on the operating slide.

In the 1911 and other automatics on the frame and slide rails, and the barrel locking lugs and outside of the barrel.
In revolvers on the hammer-trigger interfaces, S&W rebound slides, etc.
You can buy the grease in small tubes or large cans, and the thick oil in small oilers or I bought it in 4 ounce bottles.
http://www.super-lube.com/
Link Posted: 9/21/2016 11:04:44 PM EDT
[#11]
First, I used LSA. Then, I used CLP (and LP).

Now, I use Mobil 1 Synthetic Wheel Bearing grease (the pinkish/red stuff). If it is really cold, I'll switch to TW25b.

Grease works great in normal DI AR's. I have not used it on weapons that are suppressed or have
smaller, "non-standard" gas ports. I cannot comment in that area.
Link Posted: 9/21/2016 11:20:13 PM EDT
[#12]
I use MOBIL 1 motor oil   . . .  and MOBIL 1 bearing grease on Garands, and stuff that calls for grease

works a lot better than CLP, cheaper too.

works very well in -40* temps


Link Posted: 9/22/2016 1:18:19 PM EDT
[#13]
I've used Royal Purple Ultimate Performance Grease, generic high-temp wheel bearing grease from Autozone, and Slip 2000 grease without issue. As others have stated, use sparingly, as a little goes a long way.
Link Posted: 9/22/2016 3:03:05 PM EDT
[#14]
Another vote for Mobil 1 and Super Lube.  Usually my only oil used on ARs, shotguns and rifles is Mobil one (10w30 I think), although I do try others from time-to-time.  Rails, bolts and such get Super lube.  Except for 22LRs as they are too dirty for grease.  All revolvers have the grips removed and innards greased.  I live in the south so am not concerned about bitter cold weather and grease..
Link Posted: 9/22/2016 5:05:59 PM EDT
[#15]
Yes. Grease is great used sparingly...enough to make the parts shiny without seeing globs. I usually shine up the bolt surfaces around the gas rings, work a little into the gas rings and the shiny ring of raised metal around the bolt. None goes on the locking lugs. Too much on the locking lugs might cause problems.
I also put a little on the shiny part of the rails on the bolt carrier, on the cam pin and that's about it.
One tube of super lube should last a loooong time.

I also put a bit on the buffer and spring once in a while...again, just enough to make them look shiny. This cuts down on noise and wear and may make the rifle function a little more smoothly.

I have no idea how that works in super cold environments ...cause...Florida.

It does seem to do ok when there's some laying in the sand action going on though. When I get home from action rifle I can hear the sand in the action when I pull the charge handle back but it doesn't affect function. Ymmv
Link Posted: 9/22/2016 6:43:10 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Generally speaking grease thickens in colder weather and liquefies in warmer weather. Amount Appropriate temperature range for the grease in question is the key.
View Quote


Many greases will have no trouble operating in temps where humans can hope to remain operable.
Link Posted: 9/22/2016 7:39:31 PM EDT
[#17]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


In use mobile 1 motor oil and it stays on and lasts.
View Quote
I use that for guns I shot often. I use grease for long term storage.

 
Link Posted: 9/23/2016 9:20:05 AM EDT
[#18]
I use superlube grease with PTFE on every gun I own, Berettas, Glocks, 1911s, and ARs. They all get grease.

The key is not slathering it on every inch of your gun, it's just not needed. Put some on the carrier rails and bolt alignment ring and your good to go.

Same for handguns, just put some on the frame rails.
View Quote


+1.  I've been using grease for years.  I apply it sparingly to parts that see a lot of friction, like frame rails on pistols.  I've never had a problem with grease and never had it attract dirt.
Link Posted: 9/24/2016 3:20:20 PM EDT
[#19]
I usually use a mixture of 10W30 M1-90% + MERCON V-10% transmission fluid as a lube. I also use 3-IN-1 oil as well. I just recently started using a new new to me CLP, Grizzly Grease to clean my firearms.
http://www.reloaderaddict.com/the-4-best-lubes-for-ar-15-ar15-reviews-2016/
Link Posted: 9/24/2016 3:35:08 PM EDT
[#20]
I whip up a mix of 80% Mobil 1 and 20% Lucas Red & Tacky Synthetic Grease. It's some slick shit. It sticks, but not too sticky.
Link Posted: 9/26/2016 2:23:25 AM EDT
[#21]
Another +1 for Super Lube, great stuff.
Link Posted: 9/26/2016 12:20:22 PM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Many greases will have no trouble operating in temps where humans can hope to remain operable.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Generally speaking grease thickens in colder weather and liquefies in warmer weather. Amount Appropriate temperature range for the grease in question is the key.


Many greases will have no trouble operating in temps where humans can hope to remain operable.


Yep, my super lube is rated for -60°F to +500°F.

I'm pretty sure I would struggle operating at those extremes.
Link Posted: 9/27/2016 12:57:11 PM EDT
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
In use mobile 1 motor oil and it stays on and lasts.
View Quote


This. I use the 'European Formula' 0w40 Class IV true synthetic.
Link Posted: 10/15/2016 8:14:22 AM EDT
[#24]
Super lube oil and grease.
Link Posted: 11/7/2016 5:44:45 PM EDT
[#25]
Same here. 80/20.  Works like magic, easy to clean, and cheap to make. A quart of M1 and a tube of Lucas will last a life time, and costs $10.
Link Posted: 11/11/2016 2:14:29 PM EDT
[#26]
I have used lithium grease in the past. I mostly use Rem Oil now. The lithium grease stays on for quite a while.
Link Posted: 12/8/2016 8:14:30 AM EDT
[#27]
All I use on my ARs is synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease.     I don't plan on changing either.    I've tried it on pistols with mixed results.    I find the NLGI 2 WBG is too thick for some pistols.
Link Posted: 12/10/2016 5:06:20 AM EDT
[#28]
Mobile 1 synth 10/30 here. I tried white lithium grease on a NiB carrier and it was a disaster. It thickened up like peanut butter (guessing it collected carbon and held it there). I liked how it didn't run, but other than that... it sucked. I do use it in my AK, but NOT in my AR anymore. Never again. Back to mobile 1 and no issues since.
Link Posted: 12/21/2016 7:04:39 PM EDT
[#29]
I use the Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease on my AR's, AK's and Glocks....never had any issues at all. Like what has been posted before the key is to use just enough on the rails to make them shiny. Easy just to use a Q-tip as an applicater.
Link Posted: 12/23/2016 1:56:39 AM EDT
[#30]
I switched to AMSOIL arctic grade grease and haven't looked back.  Same grease grade thickness as tw25b.

For everyone using motor oil, I recommend synthetic ATF over oil because it has better anti-corrosion properties.   Try Mobil1 ATF, you'll like it.
Link Posted: 12/26/2016 12:43:00 PM EDT
[#31]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I use the Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease on my AR's, AK's and Glocks....never had any issues at all. Like what has been posted before the key is to use just enough on the rails to make them shiny. Easy just to use a Q-tip as an applicater.
View Quote


This... sparingly on rails, and Mobil 1 oil everywhere else.
Link Posted: 12/28/2016 1:30:22 AM EDT
[#32]
I wouldn't put gun oil in my truck so why would I put engine oil in my gun?
Link Posted: 12/28/2016 2:27:38 AM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I wouldn't put gun oil in my truck so why would I put engine oil in my gun?
View Quote

Unlike other firearms... your AR IS an engine. They operate VERY similar. With an engine the piston moves, the block stays stationary. With an AR, the bolt/piston stays stationary, the carrier (same as an engine block) moves. Same principle, just reversed movement. They both deal with carbon, friction, high heat, and seal with gas rings. They both have intake and exhaust ports (gas tube and bcg ports).
So, since the AR IS an engine.... why not use the best engine oil available? Mobile 1 synthetic oil.  That's why you don't put "gun lube" in your AR engine
Page AR-15 » Maintenance & Cleaning
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
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