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Page AR-15 » Maintenance & Cleaning
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
Posted: 6/13/2016 3:41:39 PM EDT
I recently began using Hoppes #9 Solvent to break up the carbon and grit build up in my rifle then lubed everything with CLP and a little bit of Gunslick Ultra Lube and some Rem oil wipes.  I have noticed a build up of "gunk" (carbon/grease/dirt).  I had not experienced this type of fouling since I got my first AR and ran it "wet" with far too much lube.   I have been experiencing some cycling problems which I had attributed to my new lightweight BCG.  Seeking advice for the malfunctions a user mentioned that using solvents and CLP together will cause a build up of fouling which he suggested maybe the cause of my problem. LINK TO THREAD HERE

Consequently, I am going to give my upper a thorough cleaning with the hopes that it will fix my cycling problems.  I would like to hear any suggestions users have on how best to clean/lube the rifle,  removing the existing gunk, cleaning/lubing it.  In the past I have used CLP exclusively with no real issues.    I purchased some gun cleaning kits including these new products and think I got a bit carried away....

- Have other users had similar problems using Solvents (Hoppes #9 in my case) in conjunction with CLP or CLP + other lubes?
- Is it ok to use more than one type of lube or is the CLP+Gunslick+rem oil exacerbating the issue?
- Would the gun run better if CLP was not used? so I would used a Solvent and Gunslick lube.


Link Posted: 6/13/2016 9:39:35 PM EDT
[#1]

remove plastic and delrin to include the buffer and little pieces under extractor.  
Carb Cleaner.
G96 Gun Treatment on whole firearm.

I usually just spray heavily with G96 and wipe off excess filth.
G96 leaves a really nice film.  Great for the parts you don't reach easily.
If you have a truck gun it is the best thing in the world to spray on gun when it is stripped and let it dry before assembly.
Condensation hasn't been a problem on any firearm I've done this to.
Unlike #9 Hoppes G96 is safe on wood too at least in my experience.  YMMV.
Link Posted: 6/13/2016 9:53:15 PM EDT
[#2]
IMO, you're probably overdoing it with too much product.  



There are also probably as many different cleaning methods as there are members of this site.



As for me, I've never used Ultra Lube, so I'm not sure how that is interacting with the others.  #9 is a pretty strong solvent, and I don't find the need to use it very often, if ever, for regular cleaning.



For rifles, I'm a big fan of WIPEOUT for brushless cleaning of the barrel.  No other product is required or recommended in the bore after cleaning.  I don't find it necessary to clean the bore fanatically, but maybe after 300-500 rounds or so.  



For AR15's, typically I'll just wipe down the BCG and regrease with milcom tw25b.  If I'm out in the field during a long day of shooting, and find that the
grease has burned off my bcg, I might add a few drops of generic gun
oil to keep it wet, but generally I try not to mix gun oil with grease, which could turn into a sloggy mess.



For stubborn carbon build up on the bolt and bcg, I use BORETECH C4 Carbon Remover, which is also environmentally friendly and not harsh like the #9.  After soaking the bolt in C4 over night, the carbon build up wipes off, or at the most a light once-over with a toothbrush, and then a wipe down.  I then relube the bolt and bcg with milcom tw25b grease.  



For my bolt rifle, it's WIPEOUT in the bore, and some frog lube on the bolt.



For pistols, I use Safariland CLP exclusively to clean the bore and the internals.  Then wipe down the frame, barrel exterior, and slide with a rag and detail with q-tips.  Then re-grease moving parts with milcom tw25b, reassemble, and wipe off the excess.
I've never had a build up like you describe, and so far everything cycles smooth.



If CLP alone was working great for you before, I would say go back to that.
Link Posted: 6/13/2016 10:35:36 PM EDT
[#3]
I did overdue it.  I scrubbed away what I could using Q-tips, paper towels ect.   Most of the gunk was on the BCG and in the star chamber, upper was actually pretty clean.  I disassembled the BCG and, to my surprise it looked like it was under-lubed.  My theory is that perhaps by cleaning the upper first with Hoppe's, the solvent broke down the lube on the BCG/upper preventing it from doing its job and turning it into "gunk".  I have stripped and cleaned/lubed the BCG with CLP.  Cleaned out the chamber (also lubed with CLP) and ran some patches down the barrel.  I will be shooting this weekend so will see how things go then.  If the problem persists I am going to degrease the whole upper with a non-chlorinated brake cleaner and either re lube with CLP or try an alternative.
Link Posted: 6/13/2016 10:39:52 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
IMO, you're probably overdoing it with too much product.  

There are also probably as many different cleaning methods as there are members of this site.

As for me, I've never used Ultra Lube, so I'm not sure how that is interacting with the others.  #9 is a pretty strong solvent, and I don't find the need to use it very often, if ever, for regular cleaning.

For rifles, I'm a big fan of WIPEOUT for brushless cleaning of the barrel.  No other product is required or recommended in the bore after cleaning.  I don't find it necessary to clean the bore fanatically, but maybe after 300-500 rounds or so.  

For AR15's, typically I'll just wipe down the BCG and regrease with milcom tw25b.  If I'm out in the field during a long day of shooting, and find that the grease has burned off my bcg, I might add a few drops of generic gun oil to keep it wet, but generally I try not to mix gun oil with grease, which could turn into a sloggy mess.

For stubborn carbon build up on the bolt and bcg, I use BORETECH C4 Carbon Remover, which is also environmentally friendly and not harsh like the #9.  After soaking the bolt in C4 over night, the carbon build up wipes off, or at the most a light once-over with a toothbrush, and then a wipe down.  I then relube the bolt and bcg with milcom tw25b grease.  

For my bolt rifle, it's WIPEOUT in the bore, and some frog lube on the bolt.

For pistols, I use Safariland CLP exclusively to clean the bore and the internals.  Then wipe down the frame, barrel exterior, and slide with a rag and detail with q-tips.  Then re-grease moving parts with milcom tw25b, reassemble, and wipe off the excess.

I've never had a build up like you describe, and so far everything cycles smooth.

If CLP alone was working great for you before, I would say go back to that.
View Quote


"For my bolt rifle, it's WIPEOUT in the bore, and some frog lube on the bolt."  You dont use the froglube solvent?  I was under the impression that in order for Frog Lube to work correctly you need to frog lube everything.... However, with the minimal moving parts on a bolt gun I could see how this would work.
Link Posted: 6/13/2016 11:29:21 PM EDT
[#5]


Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
"For my bolt rifle, it's WIPEOUT in the bore, and some frog lube on the bolt."  You dont use the froglube solvent?  I was under the impression that in order for Frog Lube to work correctly you need to frog lube everything.... However, with the minimal moving parts on a bolt gun I could see how this would work.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:





Quoted:


IMO, you're probably overdoing it with too much product.  





There are also probably as many different cleaning methods as there are members of this site.





As for me, I've never used Ultra Lube, so I'm not sure how that is interacting with the others.  #9 is a pretty strong solvent, and I don't find the need to use it very often, if ever, for regular cleaning.





For rifles, I'm a big fan of WIPEOUT for brushless cleaning of the barrel.  No other product is required or recommended in the bore after cleaning.  I don't find it necessary to clean the bore fanatically, but maybe after 300-500 rounds or so.  





For AR15's, typically I'll just wipe down the BCG and regrease with milcom tw25b.  If I'm out in the field during a long day of shooting, and find that the grease has burned off my bcg, I might add a few drops of generic gun oil to keep it wet, but generally I try not to mix gun oil with grease, which could turn into a sloggy mess.





For stubborn carbon build up on the bolt and bcg, I use BORETECH C4 Carbon Remover, which is also environmentally friendly and not harsh like the #9.  After soaking the bolt in C4 over night, the carbon build up wipes off, or at the most a light once-over with a toothbrush, and then a wipe down.  I then relube the bolt and bcg with milcom tw25b grease.  





For my bolt rifle, it's WIPEOUT in the bore, and some frog lube on the bolt.





For pistols, I use Safariland CLP exclusively to clean the bore and the internals.  Then wipe down the frame, barrel exterior, and slide with a rag and detail with q-tips.  Then re-grease moving parts with milcom tw25b, reassemble, and wipe off the excess.





I've never had a build up like you describe, and so far everything cycles smooth.





If CLP alone was working great for you before, I would say go back to that.






"For my bolt rifle, it's WIPEOUT in the bore, and some frog lube on the bolt."  You dont use the froglube solvent?  I was under the impression that in order for Frog Lube to work correctly you need to frog lube everything.... However, with the minimal moving parts on a bolt gun I could see how this would work.
You need FL Solvent IF you're trying to get rid of some other grease / lube that you used previously, in order to give the Frog Lube a clean slate.  Since I only ever used Frog Lube on that bolt, there's no reason to put FL Solvent on it.



ETA:  Since the bolt in a bolt gun does not get particularly hot, the FL doesn't break down....but it keeps the bolt super slippery in the raceway.





 
Page AR-15 » Maintenance & Cleaning
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
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