Talk me into a new lube - Page 2

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Talk me into a new lube (Page 2 of 2)

Posted: 12/28/2015 12:48:11 AM EDT

[#1]

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How do you figure Mobil1 is not toxic?

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Quoted:... I like Mobil1 for lube but don't like that it's toxic. ...

It's not toxic

How do you figure Mobil1 is not toxic?

"INGESTION
First aid is normally not required. Seek medical attention if discomfort occurs. " So you can drink synthetic Mobil 1. That seams pretty non-toxic. If you aspirate any oil it is harmful, but then again if you aspirate distilled water it is harmful. That does not mean that distilled water is toxic.

You would not cook french fries in CLP either. All lubes have some health hazard. The point is Synthetic motor oil is no more toxic than CLP. I actually use Mobil 1 Synthetic Racing oil which has more of the anti-friction additives, but has to be bought from racing suppliers. Lets all be reasonable here. The nasty gas our guns are spitting out is more toxic than the lubes we put on the gun. There are many fine products out there. I've tried most of them (except Frog Lube - since it seams to have more complaints than others) and they all work well.

Posted: 12/28/2015 4:02:59 AM EDT

[#2]

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Lube MOBIL-1 5w30 synthetic motor oil

Been using it for many many years

works a lot better than CLP, doesn't burn off as easy, and in the long run, a lot cheaper

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That's exactly what I use. LOVE it. I'll never use crappy CLP again, ever.

Posted: 12/28/2015 11:45:30 AM EDT

[#3]

I was using Hoppes oil or Birchwood Casey oil. I ended up with small bottles somewhere along the lines. I was not happy because the oil was burning off and the carbon was a bitch to clean off the bolt carrier and upper. The guns were running dry after a magazine or two.

Because of this I have been searching for a "better" lube. I do not want something crazy where you have to bake your gun, etc, etc, Just a lube that won't burn off.

I have been testing Slip2000 on my guns. So far the stuff seems good. After 500 rounds it is still wet. This is promising. If still slightly wet the carbon should more or less wipe right off.

Next I will try synthetic motor oil. I have a quart of oil from a car I no longer own. 0W-40 I think?

I may try one gun with Slip2000 and one with motor oil. Then compare after a range trip. I think the motor oil will work the same as Slip2000 for about 1/8th the price.

I am not too worried about "non-toxic". Even if the oil is non-toxic all the powder, primer and bullet residue is not. So who cares about one component of the residue in my gun. I do not plan to lick it.

Posted: 12/28/2015 12:47:22 PM EDT

[#4]

Ballistol is good stuff.

Heck, in a properly running weapon, CLP, LSA, PL etc all works well.

Posted: 12/30/2015 1:52:20 PM EDT

[#5]

This : https://youtu.be/lcBu6q61G3M and there are more test videos from Weapon Shield.

Posted: 12/31/2015 5:52:44 AM EDT

[#6]

Been playing with Weaponshield lately myself. In my corrosion tests, it's a good performer. Will do more live fire before coming to conclusions though.

Posted: 12/31/2015 2:46:18 PM EDT

[#7]

Ballistol !

Posted: 12/31/2015 3:00:44 PM EDT

[#8]

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I'm a big fan of EWL 30.

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This

Posted: 12/31/2015 11:57:41 PM EDT

[#9]

I personally use Rem Oil or Breakfree for all my AR cleaning chores. I also suggest you clean your rifle after every range secession.

Impala

Posted: 1/1/2016 4:39:17 AM EDT

[#10]

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Been playing with Weaponshield lately myself. In my corrosion tests, it's a good performer. Will do more live fire before coming to conclusions though.

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Got some on it's way to try myself.

Let me know how you make out. I'm done trying the veggie based oils from now on. Bad for storage if you can't get out to shoot for a couple of weeks.

Been wanting to try Weaponshield for a while now. I went back to and have been using SLP2000 EWL regular and 30. They always worked for me, but I want to give WS a go for a spell and see how I like it.

The antiwear test vids peaked my interest. How true it is? I don't know? But George Fennell seems to answer all questions pretty intelligently.

Posted: 1/1/2016 6:59:51 AM EDT

[#11]

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Got some on it's way to try myself.

Let me know how you make out. I'm done trying the veggie based oils from now on. Bad for storage if you can't get out to shoot for a couple of weeks.

Been wanting to try Weaponshield for a while now. I went back to and have been using SLP2000 EWL regular and 30. They always worked for me, but I want to give WS a go for a spell and see how I like it.

The antiwear test vids peaked my interest. How true it is? I don't know? But George Fennell seems to answer all questions pretty intelligently.

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Quoted:
Been playing with Weaponshield lately myself. In my corrosion tests, it's a good performer. Will do more live fire before coming to conclusions though.

Got some on it's way to try myself.

Let me know how you make out. I'm done trying the veggie based oils from now on. Bad for storage if you can't get out to shoot for a couple of weeks.

Been wanting to try Weaponshield for a while now. I went back to and have been using SLP2000 EWL regular and 30. They always worked for me, but I want to give WS a go for a spell and see how I like it.

The antiwear test vids peaked my interest. How true it is? I don't know? But George Fennell seems to answer all questions pretty intelligently.

Fennell is not a conventional looking or acting guy, but as far as I can tell, he's been pretty honest in his comparisons. I still take issue with his claim about Fireclean/Vegetable oil and all that, but I do not think he BS'ed on his Falex wear machine. Could he have? Sure. he could have. It's humanly possible to queer those results hardcore. However, I've played with one, and unless he swapped out the springs or something in the test-meter/scale, it would be darn near impossible to queer it as badly as the disparity shows. The old Amsoil/Shampoo thing involved just such spring swappery.

Anyway, he DID originally formulate FP-10, and FP-10 has some insane specs on wear/load bearing from multiple labs, and I doubt his new invention back in '09? (Weaponshield) was somehow a massive step backwards...so, logically speaking, I believe his marketing on WS thus far. It passes the "sniff" test.

Posted: 1/3/2016 11:00:37 PM EDT

[#12]

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Fennell is not a conventional looking or acting guy, but as far as I can tell, he's been pretty honest in his comparisons. I still take issue with his claim about Fireclean/Vegetable oil and all that, but I do not think he BS'ed on his Falex wear machine. Could he have? Sure. he could have. It's humanly possible to queer those results hardcore. However, I've played with one, and unless he swapped out the springs or something in the test-meter/scale, it would be darn near impossible to queer it as badly as the disparity shows. The old Amsoil/Shampoo thing involved just such spring swappery.

Anyway, he DID originally formulate FP-10, and FP-10 has some insane specs on wear/load bearing from multiple labs, and I doubt his new invention back in '09? (Weaponshield) was somehow a massive step backwards...so, logically speaking, I believe his marketing on WS thus far. It passes the "sniff" test.

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Quoted:

Quoted:
Been playing with Weaponshield lately myself. In my corrosion tests, it's a good performer. Will do more live fire before coming to conclusions though.

Got some on it's way to try myself.

Let me know how you make out. I'm done trying the veggie based oils from now on. Bad for storage if you can't get out to shoot for a couple of weeks.

Been wanting to try Weaponshield for a while now. I went back to and have been using SLP2000 EWL regular and 30. They always worked for me, but I want to give WS a go for a spell and see how I like it.

The antiwear test vids peaked my interest. How true it is? I don't know? But George Fennell seems to answer all questions pretty intelligently.

Fennell is not a conventional looking or acting guy, but as far as I can tell, he's been pretty honest in his comparisons. I still take issue with his claim about Fireclean/Vegetable oil and all that, but I do not think he BS'ed on his Falex wear machine. Could he have? Sure. he could have. It's humanly possible to queer those results hardcore. However, I've played with one, and unless he swapped out the springs or something in the test-meter/scale, it would be darn near impossible to queer it as badly as the disparity shows. The old Amsoil/Shampoo thing involved just such spring swappery.

Anyway, he DID originally formulate FP-10, and FP-10 has some insane specs on wear/load bearing from multiple labs, and I doubt his new invention back in '09? (Weaponshield) was somehow a massive step backwards...so, logically speaking, I believe his marketing on WS thus far. It passes the "sniff" test.

Just got weaponshield 4pt kit today and will let everyone know what I think. I have a brand new Springfield XDS (45acp) and an almost completed AR that WS will be used in from the get go. So far I like it but I will say I will be using gloves with it anyhow. The Solvent took a full day and about 20 hand washes to get the smell off my hands. Not that it smells bad, just not what I want on my hands

Posted: 1/4/2016 9:45:50 AM EDT

[#13]

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Just got weaponshield 4pt kit today and will let everyone know what I think. I have a brand new Springfield XDS (45acp) and an almost completed AR that WS will be used in from the get go. So far I like it but I will say I will be using gloves with it anyhow. The Solvent took a full day and about 20 hand washes to get the smell off my hands. Not that it smells bad, just not what I want on my hands

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Quoted:

Quoted:
Been playing with Weaponshield lately myself. In my corrosion tests, it's a good performer. Will do more live fire before coming to conclusions though.

Got some on it's way to try myself.

Let me know how you make out. I'm done trying the veggie based oils from now on. Bad for storage if you can't get out to shoot for a couple of weeks.

Been wanting to try Weaponshield for a while now. I went back to and have been using SLP2000 EWL regular and 30. They always worked for me, but I want to give WS a go for a spell and see how I like it.

The antiwear test vids peaked my interest. How true it is? I don't know? But George Fennell seems to answer all questions pretty intelligently.

Fennell is not a conventional looking or acting guy, but as far as I can tell, he's been pretty honest in his comparisons. I still take issue with his claim about Fireclean/Vegetable oil and all that, but I do not think he BS'ed on his Falex wear machine. Could he have? Sure. he could have. It's humanly possible to queer those results hardcore. However, I've played with one, and unless he swapped out the springs or something in the test-meter/scale, it would be darn near impossible to queer it as badly as the disparity shows. The old Amsoil/Shampoo thing involved just such spring swappery.

Anyway, he DID originally formulate FP-10, and FP-10 has some insane specs on wear/load bearing from multiple labs, and I doubt his new invention back in '09? (Weaponshield) was somehow a massive step backwards...so, logically speaking, I believe his marketing on WS thus far. It passes the "sniff" test.

Just got weaponshield 4pt kit today and will let everyone know what I think. I have a brand new Springfield XDS (45acp) and an almost completed AR that WS will be used in from the get go. So far I like it but I will say I will be using gloves with it anyhow. The Solvent took a full day and about 20 hand washes to get the smell off my hands. Not that it smells bad, just not what I want on my hands

I bought a 4 oz kit as well, mostly based off that video. I always use gloves when cleaning/lubing, just because it is usually such a mess.

Posted: 1/7/2016 9:01:19 AM EDT

[#14]

I've tried most all of em and WeaponShield is still the shiznit. Really combats wear. Especially noticeable in handguns where tolerances can be tight (1911s).

Posted: 1/7/2016 9:11:28 AM EDT

[#15]

WeaponShield is my go to lube. I do use it as a CLP type product.

Posted: 1/7/2016 9:25:21 AM EDT

[#16]

Bore Tech Friction Guard XP. Don't eat it!

Posted: 1/7/2016 1:28:02 PM EDT

[#17]

Yup I like weaponshield as well,

Posted: 1/7/2016 1:45:57 PM EDT

[#18]

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No, but there is a tdp and spec for military clp. Motor oil doesn't meet it most likely.

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And is oil on the exhaust valve seats? I'd wager not...valve stems, okay...but not the valve seats. Further, that is not the same as the shearing action against lugs and cam pin...

Hell,.....I don't know

I'm not a car mechanic

I've spent most of my life shooting competitively, . . . . . I shoot . . . . . . I shoot a lot.

I've been using MOBIL 5w30 synthetic for a long time, and it works.

It works really well

I'm done buying tiny little 4oz bottles of the gun store Kool-aide flavor of the month.

Why does the military buy clp when motor oil from the motor pool would work?
I am not saying Mobil 1 won't run. I'm jjust saying I prefer better performance when it can be obtained for less than the price of a magazine of training ammo.

If you think the military uses logic.....think again.

No, but there is a tdp and spec for military clp. Motor oil doesn't meet it most likely.

If you think these small companies that whip up their snake oil have better R&D than Mobil I've got news for you. And you engine example is apples to oranges but guess what? They tun Mobil 1 in very high performance engines with turbos, nitrous, blowers, et cetera. The heat and pressure it can withstand is insane.

There is not a shot on this planet that snake oil gun lube is better than Mobil 1. Does gun oil work? Yes. Well in some cases? Yes. Is it on par with most major big oil offerings. Not a shot. But again it's mostly apples to oranges. Comparing mixtures of vegetable and other plant oils to billion dollar researched synthetics.

Posted: 1/7/2016 1:53:22 PM EDT

[#19]

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I switched over to Mobil 1 Synthetic wheel bearing grease years ago and have not looked back. Numerous
carbine courses have validated its effectiveness.

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High temp Grease has worked the last 9~ yrs.
Multiple carbine courses along with all my other shooting.

I switched over to Mobil 1 Synthetic wheel bearing grease years ago and have not looked back. Numerous
carbine courses have validated its effectiveness.

This. Oils wear off. Grease just works. It's obvious that it works. This is just another example of basic psychology. "I bought and use product X so it must be the best because reasons and feelings!"

People can feel free to overspend on specific gun lubes. That is your decision. But don't lie to yourself. There are other options out there that are proven and a lot cheaper.

Posted: 2/7/2016 6:29:52 AM EDT

[#20]

I think there's A LOT of money to be made
simply by saying, "New and Improved" or "All-in-one".

Hell, even Hoppe's now makes a "CLP" or "All-in-one" product.

That said:

On AR's, I use EWL on bolt and carrier.

Hoppe's Elite in bore and trigger wear surfaces (Because it's not super thick, like EWL)

On pistols/revolvers, Break-free on slides/rails and Elite inside the trigger mechanism.

I know (or have heard ?) that CLP coagulates, and is therefore not good on trigger
mechanisms, for that reason ...

I won;t touch Frog Lube: Heard too many horror stories about hat stuff...

Posted: 2/7/2016 7:42:10 AM EDT

[#21]

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If you think these small companies that whip up their snake oil have better R&D than Mobil I've got news for you. And you engine example is apples to oranges but guess what? They tun Mobil 1 in very high performance engines with turbos, nitrous, blowers, et cetera. The heat and pressure it can withstand is insane.

There is not a shot on this planet that snake oil gun lube is better than Mobil 1. Does gun oil work? Yes. Well in some cases? Yes. Is it on par with most major big oil offerings. Not a shot. But again it's mostly apples to oranges. Comparing mixtures of vegetable and other plant oils to billion dollar researched synthetics.

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Run your Mobil 1 in a flat tappet cam engine and get back with me on that in 5,000 miles...

...engine oil is not gun oil. Gun oil is not engine oil. Totally different loads and wear occurring.

Posted: 2/8/2016 12:58:45 PM EDT

[#22]

Most firearms (I am guessing 99.99%) are not hard on lubricants, and you can get away with just about anything including bacon grease. Firearms are typically precision made, they do not need lubricants to operate but they operate better with lubricants.
The real hard part is learning how to use the lubricants. If I was to make a suggestion I would suggest you go to an auto-parts store to get some Lucas "Red N Tacky" and some low viscosity synthetic motor oil, then learn how to use them (namely use very little, specifically drops and less).

For the most part the "gun oil" industry is a multi-million dollar snake oil industry. I said for the most part because most gun oils use the same base lubricants, there are additives that change how they work but that is another story, in addition there are dry lubricants.

When it comes to lubricants I would prefer to use an off the shelf, petroleum based (synthetic) product because it is common. Froglube though it can be good I have herd many not so great things about it.
The reason for my suggestion is simple, compatibility. If two lubricants can be mixed then you will have little to no issue if you are in a bind. With Froglube or similar, if you run out you will have to clean the weapon out to apply something else.

Posted: 2/9/2016 8:57:59 PM EDT

[#23]

Many gun oils might be repackaged whatever, but Fp10 has some legit 3rd party lab tests thay would destroy Mobil 1, and I have seen VOA data on weaponshield, and it's a legit product with a real ad pack, tailored for metal to metal contact parts vs. What Mobil 1 is made for (boundary vs. Thin film/floating type)

Posted: 2/9/2016 10:17:33 PM EDT

[#24]

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Many gun oils might be repackaged whatever, but Fp10 has some legit 3rd party lab tests thay would destroy Mobil 1, and I have seen VOA data on weaponshield, and it's a legit product with a real ad pack, tailored for metal to metal contact parts vs. What Mobil 1 is made for (boundary vs. Thin film/floating type)

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while you were reading "3rd party lab tests", I was shooting IPSC, IDPA, and 3-gun.

Mobil-1 just fucking works.

....I will admit that FP-10 is very slick stuff

Posted: 2/9/2016 10:43:10 PM EDT

[#25]

I don't necessarily like or dislike this guy but agree with what he says in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPPkRanppL4

Posted: 2/9/2016 11:41:12 PM EDT

[#26]

Look.... Everyone has their pet favorite lube. I wanted a lube that was really slick, protected against corrosion, didn't foul, and lasted.

I've tried several of the most popular lubes and oils. I've tried Mobil 1, Rem-Oil, Hoppe's Oil, Breakfree CLP, Lucas CLP, and Froglube.

None of them satisfied me. A guy at the range turned me on to M-Pro7. It's simply the best gun lube I've ever used. It met all my needs. I started using all their products, and I couldn't be happier. You just have to find something that works for you.

Posted: 2/14/2016 6:39:54 PM EDT

[#27]

New here, but thought I'd chime in on this one as a professional racing driver and engineer as well as a gun enthusiast.

No AR is going to generate the heat and stresses that a race engine does. So a synthetic race oil will do well in an AR. I would recommend a Redline 50wt race oil - very high ZDDP and a proven winner. Nothing your AR is going to do will overpower this oil, but it's a few bucks more expensive per quart than Mobil 1 (which I'd use 0w40 for in this case as it's one of the best protective oils Mobil makes, even though it tolerates extreme stress less well than race oils). Still $13-15 USD per quart is a bargain against the gun oil industry costs.

For slides and trigger actions etc. , I'd consider the Redline CV-2 synthetic grease or the Mobil 1 synthetic grease - either is going to take good care of you. Look, we're talking about chemical lubricants providing protection to metal components at relatively high heat and stress levels - this isn't new territory. We know what works here, and there isn't anything that makes a gun magical in that regard. Race oils are well-developed and have billions of dollars and decades of time into their dev to deliver the pinnacle of high-stress performance - you can trust in the torture-tested results.

As an addendum - what all of this means is that you could probably spend $30 USD on Redline oils/grease and get enough to last you the rest of your life with your AR. That is a compelling thought.

Posted: 2/14/2016 8:14:51 PM EDT

[#28]

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Quoted:
New here, but thought I'd chime in on this one as a professional racing driver and engineer as well as a gun enthusiast.

No AR is going to generate the heat and stresses that a race engine does. So a synthetic race oil will do well in an AR. I would recommend a Redline 50wt race oil - very high ZDDP and a proven winner. Nothing your AR is going to do will overpower this oil, but it's a few bucks more expensive per quart than Mobil 1 (which I'd use 0w40 for in this case as it's one of the best protective oils Mobil makes, even though it tolerates extreme stress less well than race oils). Still $13-15 USD per quart is a bargain against the gun oil industry costs.

For slides and trigger actions etc. , I'd consider the Redline CV-2 synthetic grease or the Mobil 1 synthetic grease - either is going to take good care of you. Look, we're talking about chemical lubricants providing protection to metal components at relatively high heat and stress levels - this isn't new territory. We know what works here, and there isn't anything that makes a gun magical in that regard. Race oils are well-developed and have billions of dollars and decades of time into their dev to deliver the pinnacle of high-stress performance - you can trust in the torture-tested results.

As an addendum - what all of this means is that you could probably spend $30 USD on Redline oils/grease and get enough to last you the rest of your life with your AR. That is a compelling thought.

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While I bet they will do well enough, for sure, they are formulated for applications that involve large amounts of circulating oil (comparatively) in a closed system with a filter, oil pump, and almost NO metal to metal contact. It isn't much of a "cross over" in R&D. They also lack the corrosion inhibitors of even shoddy (cheap/common) firearm oils.

Posted: 2/15/2016 2:14:31 AM EDT

[#29]

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While I bet they will do well enough, for sure, they are formulated for applications that involve large amounts of circulating oil (comparatively) in a closed system with a filter, oil pump, and almost NO metal to metal contact. It isn't much of a "cross over" in R&D. They also lack the corrosion inhibitors of even shoddy (cheap/common) firearm oils.

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Quoted:

Quoted:
New here, but thought I'd chime in on this one as a professional racing driver and engineer as well as a gun enthusiast.

No AR is going to generate the heat and stresses that a race engine does. So a synthetic race oil will do well in an AR. I would recommend a Redline 50wt race oil - very high ZDDP and a proven winner. Nothing your AR is going to do will overpower this oil, but it's a few bucks more expensive per quart than Mobil 1 (which I'd use 0w40 for in this case as it's one of the best protective oils Mobil makes, even though it tolerates extreme stress less well than race oils). Still $13-15 USD per quart is a bargain against the gun oil industry costs.

For slides and trigger actions etc. , I'd consider the Redline CV-2 synthetic grease or the Mobil 1 synthetic grease - either is going to take good care of you. Look, we're talking about chemical lubricants providing protection to metal components at relatively high heat and stress levels - this isn't new territory. We know what works here, and there isn't anything that makes a gun magical in that regard. Race oils are well-developed and have billions of dollars and decades of time into their dev to deliver the pinnacle of high-stress performance - you can trust in the torture-tested results.

As an addendum - what all of this means is that you could probably spend $30 USD on Redline oils/grease and get enough to last you the rest of your life with your AR. That is a compelling thought.

While I bet they will do well enough, for sure, they are formulated for applications that involve large amounts of circulating oil (comparatively) in a closed system with a filter, oil pump, and almost NO metal to metal contact. It isn't much of a "cross over" in R&D. They also lack the corrosion inhibitors of even shoddy (cheap/common) firearm oils.

You also forgot to mention that in an engine most moving parts glide in a film of oil applied with hydrolic pressure. I want to see how long a journal bearing will last if you disconnect the oil pump. Engine oils work and do work well but I do believe that some of the firearm specific lubes do a better job in a firearm. Do they cost 5or10x the amount to make? I doubt it. Will engine oil work? Yes. Will the $25 for 16oz of Weapon Shield VS $15qt break my bank? HELL NO. A range pass for the day is $20. 16oz of Weapon Shield will last me 3-4 years and I shoot 2-3 times a month. Let's average that out to $.18 each time I go to the range. I shoot 150-250 rounds in a day. With the going price of 5.56 at $.40 or 45acp at $.32 on the cheep end....... tell you what I will pull the trigger 1 time less than usual every other time I go and keep my "overpriced lube" . And for the record I used Mobil1 products for years, I just think Weapon Shield does a better job cleaning and is already showing less wear than Mobil1.

P.S. Incase people didn't know I also wanted to point out that Mobil1 shelf life is 5yrs from date of manufacturing.

Posted: 2/15/2016 4:02:44 AM EDT

[#30]

See, this is where a high weight, fully synthetic race oil comes into play. It has several key advantages over a consumer "cracked" synth like Mobil 1. The Redline oil I mentioned, for example, is a true class 5 base synth - in addition to providing superior bonding with metal on heat cycles, it features extreme addpacks, massive shear resistance, and the shelf life is at least 10+ years, not even sure the upper limit as it doesn't degrade like oils with bio components. In looking at the viscosity of various gun lubes I see it is certainly no less. And for areas that need grease? Anywhere I'd use, say, TW25, the CV2 would outperform it every time - it does what it does under much tougher conditions. And I am not aware of any synth oil addpack today that lacks corrosion inhibitors - they provide total metal protection.

Of course engines are pressurized, but looking at a lot of gun oils, most of the non-froglube types would be intrinsically the same as a Mobil in oil behavior in the carrier group. And Redline would do much better. While I know there are exotic gun lube systems and processes, I think some tend to get a bit obsessed well past the point of diminishing returns on that, but that's another topic. I just know this meets my needs - I have the race oil anyway from my racecars, my AR's clean up quickly, show no real wear of any concern, shoot reliably every time, and it's dirt cheap to do it this way - more money on ammo for me!

Posted: 2/15/2016 5:50:29 AM EDT

[#31]

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See, this is where a high weight, fully synthetic race oil comes into play. It has several key advantages over a consumer "cracked" synth like Mobil 1. The Redline oil I mentioned, for example, is a true class 5 base synth - in addition to providing superior bonding with metal on heat cycles, it features extreme addpacks, massive shear resistance, and the shelf life is at least 10+ years, not even sure the upper limit as it doesn't degrade like oils with bio components. In looking at the viscosity of various gun lubes I see it is certainly no less. And for areas that need grease? Anywhere I'd use, say, TW25, the CV2 would outperform it every time - it does what it does under much tougher conditions. And I am not aware of any synth oil addpack today that lacks corrosion inhibitors - they provide total metal protection.

Of course engines are pressurized, but looking at a lot of gun oils, most of the non-froglube types would be intrinsically the same as a Mobil in oil behavior in the carrier group. And Redline would do much better. While I know there are exotic gun lube systems and processes, I think some tend to get a bit obsessed well past the point of diminishing returns on that, but that's another topic. I just know this meets my needs - I have the race oil anyway from my racecars, my AR's clean up quickly, show no real wear of any concern, shoot reliably every time, and it's dirt cheap to do it this way - more money on ammo for me!

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I ran red line in my 370z, and I ran nissans synthetic oil. I noticed no difference in operating temps. Nor did the mt85 red line do a lot for my grinding transmission. This alone tells me it's not functionally special even in an engine, imo.

The PAO group V is a selling point, but I don't think it's a full group V PAO, just high enough to be called one, much like synthetic from mobil has enough group IV to make the cut.

My issue with motor oil is all the other additives in it that you don't need. Zddp, for example, is not something you want to get too hot.

Again...iI bet it works. But I prefer a purpose designed product.

Posted: 2/15/2016 8:46:46 AM EDT

[#32]

TW-25B in both oil and grease is also very good. never had an issue

Posted: 2/15/2016 6:24:44 PM EDT

[#33]

I like Super Lube for my bolt and carrier and trigger sears. It stays put very well. Slick as owls snot.

Posted: 2/15/2016 9:32:38 PM EDT

[#34]

Quote History

Quoted:
I like Super Lube for my bolt and carrier and trigger sears. It stays put very well. Slick as owls snot.

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Contains teflon, though

Posted: 2/15/2016 11:09:12 PM EDT

[#35]

Quote History

Quoted:

Contains teflon, though

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Quoted:

Quoted:
I like Super Lube for my bolt and carrier and trigger sears. It stays put very well. Slick as owls snot.

Contains teflon, though

What's wrong with teflon?

Posted: 2/15/2016 11:58:20 PM EDT

[#36]

Quote History

Quoted:

What's wrong with teflon?

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Quoted:

Quoted:
I like Super Lube for my bolt and carrier and trigger sears. It stays put very well. Slick as owls snot.

Contains teflon, though

What's wrong with teflon?

It creates PFIB when it combusts/is exposed to high temperatures.
http://toxnet.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/sis/search/a?dbs+hsdb:@term+@DOCNO+7708

How much combusts? However much is in the gas-key or expansion chamber of the BCG, or what is in the bore, or.... I don't know. I just know my acceptable exposure to PFIB is ZERO. So I avoid products that contain Teflon, and htat completely eliminates the chances of being exposed to it.

Posted: 2/16/2016 8:06:47 PM EDT

[#37]

Quote History

I ran red line in my 370z, and I ran nissans synthetic oil. I noticed no difference in operating temps. Nor did the mt85 red line do a lot for my grinding transmission. This alone tells me it's not functionally special even in an engine, imo.

The PAO group V is a selling point, but I don't think it's a full group V PAO, just high enough to be called one, much like synthetic from mobil has enough group IV to make the cut.

My issue with motor oil is all the other additives in it that you don't need. Zddp, for example, is not something you want to get too hot.

Again...iI bet it works. But I prefer a purpose designed product.

View Quote

No, it's a true 5 - they had nothing to do with that oh-so-clever lawsuit allowing cracked formulations to be legally called "full synthetic". Redline didn't change what they were doing a jot. That's why so many of us use it. Race engines are expensive as hell, that's why we do oil analysis of our used samples with a lab to ensure it's doing the job. Redline Race Oil (not street - the Race oil specifically) is proven beyond doubt in the racing community. Trannys are another story - every race trans I have ever seen, owned or worked on ends up using a blend of stuff, but that is another topic.,

In the end, whatever actually works, takes care of your weapons sufficiently, and meets your goals is good. This is a cheap and hassle-free way for me to do it, and it works. No judgement on other methods

Posted: 2/16/2016 11:26:43 PM EDT

[#38]

Why not make your own oil? Think about it. Oil of wintergreen + propylene glycol, mineral oil, lanolin, lotus extract, sage, rosemary, neem oil, vitamin e, and a few other things. Mix all that together and you get a protective coating, hydrophobic, lubrication, and rust prevention all in one. It would be no different than homemade cosmetics, only manlier.

Don't believe me? Google all these . You'll find studies studies on all of them that are relevant and proven.

Think I'm on to something here.

Posted: 2/17/2016 6:15:32 AM EDT

[#39]

Quote History

Quoted:

No, it's a true 5 - they had nothing to do with that oh-so-clever lawsuit allowing cracked formulations to be legally called "full synthetic". Redline didn't change what they were doing a jot. That's why so many of us use it. Race engines are expensive as hell, that's why we do oil analysis of our used samples with a lab to ensure it's doing the job. Redline Race Oil (not street - the Race oil specifically) is proven beyond doubt in the racing community. Trannys are another story - every race trans I have ever seen, owned or worked on ends up using a blend of stuff, but that is another topic.,

In the end, whatever actually works, takes care of your weapons sufficiently, and meets your goals is good. This is a cheap and hassle-free way for me to do it, and it works. No judgement on other methods

View Quote View All Quotes

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Quote History

Quoted:

I ran red line in my 370z, and I ran nissans synthetic oil. I noticed no difference in operating temps. Nor did the mt85 red line do a lot for my grinding transmission. This alone tells me it's not functionally special even in an engine, imo.

The PAO group V is a selling point, but I don't think it's a full group V PAO, just high enough to be called one, much like synthetic from mobil has enough group IV to make the cut.

My issue with motor oil is all the other additives in it that you don't need. Zddp, for example, is not something you want to get too hot.

Again...iI bet it works. But I prefer a purpose designed product.

No, it's a true 5 - they had nothing to do with that oh-so-clever lawsuit allowing cracked formulations to be legally called "full synthetic". Redline didn't change what they were doing a jot. That's why so many of us use it. Race engines are expensive as hell, that's why we do oil analysis of our used samples with a lab to ensure it's doing the job. Redline Race Oil (not street - the Race oil specifically) is proven beyond doubt in the racing community. Trannys are another story - every race trans I have ever seen, owned or worked on ends up using a blend of stuff, but that is another topic.,

In the end, whatever actually works, takes care of your weapons sufficiently, and meets your goals is good. This is a cheap and hassle-free way for me to do it, and it works. No judgement on other methods

Interesting. I just ran Mobil 1 in my LS7, and while not super expensive, that is a $15-17K motor. I asked Spring Mountain what they ran, and they also told me Mobil 1. They will put about 10-15k miles (track/paddock miles) on a Z06, and then sell it to a dealer who blocks the warranty, and sells it with full disclosure at a very deep discount. They told me they had never lost an LS7, and this was in 2011.

Posted: 2/18/2016 1:52:32 AM EDT

[#40]

Mobil has race grades that do very well, although we don't see it much outside of pro sponsored teams - isn't as widely available to the general public as some of the others. These are legit group 5 synths with massive zinc addpacks and other exotic stuff, so assuming that this is what they ran, I'd expect Mobil Race to do well. But understand that's not the same stuff as your basic 5q jug at Wallyworld - the Race grade is a very different, and far superior, animal.

Posted: 2/18/2016 5:26:29 AM EDT

[#41]

Quote History

Quoted:
Mobil has race grades that do very well, although we don't see it much outside of pro sponsored teams - isn't as widely available to the general public as some of the others. These are legit group 5 synths with massive zinc addpacks and other exotic stuff, so assuming that this is what they ran, I'd expect Mobil Race to do well. But understand that's not the same stuff as your basic 5q jug at Wallyworld - the Race grade is a very different, and far superior, animal.

View Quote

No, they ran factory fill stuff. Nothing special. The only thing they changed from factory was the diff fluid. They went a bit thicker, I believe.

Posted: 2/21/2016 8:26:06 PM EDT

[#42]

Lucky them, I guess - sure never seen an amateur or pro team use off the shelf stuff when better stuff was available. We don't usually take chances with what we don't have to, and the race oils are absolutely proven to be so much better. Science :-)

Posted: 2/21/2016 11:49:21 PM EDT

[#43]

Quote History

Quoted:
Lucky them, I guess - sure never seen an amateur or pro team use off the shelf stuff when better stuff was available. We don't usually take chances with what we don't have to, and the race oils are absolutely proven to be so much better. Science :-)

View Quote

They never lost an ls7 that I'm aware of, and each car got a minimum of 10k track miles. The one I drove had 17k miles...

Posted: 2/22/2016 12:21:43 AM EDT

[#44]

I have used break-free long as I can remember. Very good stuff. I got a free sample several years ago of Friction Defense from Brownells. This has also worked very well and I have ordered it from them several times when I could not find a decent deal on break free locally.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Talk me into a new lube (Page 2 of 2)

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