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Posted: 11/9/2015 6:29:23 PM EDT
[#1]
The military has used CLP made by various companies since the early 70's at least, for the M16/AR-15.
As for long term storage, CLP Breakfree is one of the very best at preventing rust. It will tend to run off a little, unlike a thick grease, but it still protects. The current CLP Breakfree still contains Teflon and doesn't dry out and get gummy like the early type did. If you're using CLP Breakfree you don't need another brand or type. |
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Posted: 11/9/2015 7:40:34 PM EDT
[#2]
I really like frogstuff, but you HAVE to be devoted to it, as in, no other petro based lubes. I have no prob with that, I just migrated to FL completely. I did fuck around this fall and try some CLP on a FLed gun, and it got pretty sluggish, but still ran. I have run a FL lubed 308 AR at 10 deg temps with no issues.
CLP works fine, and my testing with FL shows it works fine too, I have left ARs sit for a year with FL, and they ran fine. Just follow the directions.....They SHOULD be adamant about the incompatability with petro lubes. |
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Posted: 11/9/2015 8:48:24 PM EDT
[#3]
I know a lot of guys who use Breakfree CLP pretty much exclusively. I'm kind of the odd guy in my small group of shooting buddies because I use Ballistol a lot instead. Just always have, and it seems to work well for me.
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Posted: 11/9/2015 9:14:16 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I really like frogstuff, but you HAVE to be devoted to it, as in, no other petro based lubes. I have no prob with that, I just migrated to FL completely. I did fuck around this fall and try some CLP on a FLed gun, and it got pretty sluggish, but still ran. I have run a FL lubed 308 AR at 10 deg temps with no issues. CLP works fine, and my testing with FL shows it works fine too, I have left ARs sit for a year with FL, and they ran fine. Just follow the directions.....They SHOULD be adamant about the incompatability with petro lubes. Is there anyway I could get a sample to try out ??? |
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Posted: 11/10/2015 1:30:35 AM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
I have been working on guns for a long time ..But my main cleaner and lubes are Hoppes 9 and Breakfree CLP for a long time ... I am looking to upgrade if possible and oh sometimes I put away my guns for a long time and never see use ..I check out Frog Lube but that shit scares me with all the bad thread going around ... Also found alot of people using Slip 2000 but wanted to see what you suggested..Oh I worked mostly with shotguns and new to AR'S so do I need any other cleaner or lube for AR's??? How long is a long time? |
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Posted: 11/10/2015 1:31:58 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I really like frogstuff, but you HAVE to be devoted to it, as in, no other petro based lubes. I have no prob with that, I just migrated to FL completely. I did fuck around this fall and try some CLP on a FLed gun, and it got pretty sluggish, but still ran. I have run a FL lubed 308 AR at 10 deg temps with no issues. CLP works fine, and my testing with FL shows it works fine too, I have left ARs sit for a year with FL, and they ran fine. Just follow the directions.....They SHOULD be adamant about the incompatability with petro lubes. I Froglubed a rifle of my Dad's a while back. I also used the product on a rifle of mine. It wasn't the best for corrosion prevention when applied thin, and when applied thick, it just kindof sucked in every way possible. |
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Posted: 11/10/2015 2:05:49 AM EDT
[#7]
Ive used CLP, aka MIL-PRF-63460, at work for 16 years. I use Slip 2000 EWL/EWL 30 on my guns at home including random periods of storage for 12-18 months.
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Posted: 11/10/2015 8:42:29 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is there anyway I could get a sample to try out ??? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I really like frogstuff, but you HAVE to be devoted to it, as in, no other petro based lubes. I have no prob with that, I just migrated to FL completely. I did fuck around this fall and try some CLP on a FLed gun, and it got pretty sluggish, but still ran. I have run a FL lubed 308 AR at 10 deg temps with no issues. CLP works fine, and my testing with FL shows it works fine too, I have left ARs sit for a year with FL, and they ran fine. Just follow the directions.....They SHOULD be adamant about the incompatability with petro lubes. Is there anyway I could get a sample to try out ??? You might find a little sample tube online or at a gunshow/store. The stuff is way overpriced. |
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Posted: 11/10/2015 10:36:52 AM EDT
[#9]
tw25b. been using that for years and years on both pistols and rifles. white grease stays put, thinner oil for spot placing on the tiny parts
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Posted: 11/10/2015 6:08:29 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How long is a long time? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I have been working on guns for a long time ..But my main cleaner and lubes are Hoppes 9 and Breakfree CLP for a long time ... I am looking to upgrade if possible and oh sometimes I put away my guns for a long time and never see use ..I check out Frog Lube but that shit scares me with all the bad thread going around ... Also found alot of people using Slip 2000 but wanted to see what you suggested..Oh I worked mostly with shotguns and new to AR'S so do I need any other cleaner or lube for AR's??? How long is a long time? Well I have had Break CLP on my gun for about 5yrs with no use or cleaning and I can pull it out and have no problems with it ... What works for me is too take a heavily soaked rag and wipe down the gun before I put it in the safe.. Oh it's a Rem 870 Express Super Magnum and I had about 22yrs now and the only 'I had is that my gun hates Federal 3" steel shot.. |
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Posted: 11/10/2015 6:10:01 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You might find a little sample tube online or at a gunshow/store. The stuff is way overpriced. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I really like frogstuff, but you HAVE to be devoted to it, as in, no other petro based lubes. I have no prob with that, I just migrated to FL completely. I did fuck around this fall and try some CLP on a FLed gun, and it got pretty sluggish, but still ran. I have run a FL lubed 308 AR at 10 deg temps with no issues. CLP works fine, and my testing with FL shows it works fine too, I have left ARs sit for a year with FL, and they ran fine. Just follow the directions.....They SHOULD be adamant about the incompatability with petro lubes. Is there anyway I could get a sample to try out ??? You might find a little sample tube online or at a gunshow/store. The stuff is way overpriced. LOL I live in NJ so no real gun shows by me .. So I guess I am shit out of luck... |
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Posted: 11/11/2015 12:12:36 AM EDT
[#12]
I use Slip 2000 products exclusively. If you want to do this the quick and dirty way, simply adopt EWL as your CLP and don't mix it with any CLP that's not from Slip 2000. Gun Lube, EWL, EWL30 and EWG are all chemically compatible. EWL works on the principle of absorbing into the porous surface of the steel, and other CLPs might work against that. Anyway, what you'll discover after a couple trips is that your weapon can be fired longer while still staying wet. And the carbon won't be able to stick to begin with. Now, if you want to know how I did this... 1. Detail strip the AR-15 (I left the bolt catch, finger guard, and ejection port cover in place). 2. Thoroughly clean each piece with Simple Green. 3. Thoroughly rinse with filtered water. 4. Preheat oven to 140 and heat the steel parts up. 5. Apply EWL to all steel parts and put back in oven for fifteen minutes. 6. Remove the parts and wipe them dry. 7. Apply EWG (grease) to the buffer tube threading on the lower. 8. Apply EWG (grease) to the inside of the upper where the barrel inserts. 9. Apply EWG (grease) to the barrel threading on the upper. 10. Reassemble the receivers. 11. Apply EWL30 (thicker) to the rifle's recommended lubrication points. It's an involved procedure and certainly requires some free time, but this thing runs far better than it ever did with the Break-Free CLP I was using beforehand. Oh, and have a look at this: http://s483.photobucket.com/user/jvw123/media/Lube%20Test%202/DSCN1786.jpg.html |
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Posted: 11/11/2015 1:23:22 AM EDT
[#13]
Why would you even recommend taking your whole rifle apart?. Removing the barrel and receiver extension to apply lube is totally unnecessary. What happens if you get a guy on here that's new to these rifles, reads what you said, even if he had the tools to do it, let alone try to take the whole rifle apart with no further information. Some how he does get it all back together, pulls the trigger with a high pressure explosion going off right in his face. Just because some guy on the forum said it was a good idea to tear a functioning rifle apart to apply lube to the barrel threads. That's a real good idea.
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Posted: 11/11/2015 12:07:27 PM EDT
[#14]
Whoops! I forgot something. I also put EWG around the threading of the buffer tube itself. My bad for leaving that out...
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Posted: 11/13/2015 12:19:29 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why would you even recommend taking your whole rifle apart?. Removing the barrel and receiver extension to apply lube is totally unnecessary. What happens if you get a guy on here that's new to these rifles, reads what you said, even if he had the tools to do it, let alone try to take the whole rifle apart with no further information. Some how he does get it all back together, pulls the trigger with a high pressure explosion going off right in his face. Just because some guy on the forum said it was a good idea to tear a functioning rifle apart to apply lube to the barrel threads. That's a real good idea. Yup. |
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Posted: 11/13/2015 7:22:37 PM EDT
[#16]
This is a technical forum. -Andrewphillipf
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Posted: 11/14/2015 3:25:59 AM EDT
[#17]
Whatever you say man. It's just all in all bad advice that could hurt a guy or ruin a good rifle.
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Posted: 11/14/2015 3:43:47 AM EDT
[#18]
CLP is a "jack of all trades, master of NONE". It is not great at ANYTHING (yet does everything). CLP is great if your a soldier in the field and only want to carry ONE product. Otherwise, it sucks. My .02 is to use a proper cleaner, then a proper lube. Most current CLP's (such as break free) lean more on the "cleaner" side (thus they suck as a lube, as it evaporates and burns off quickly), so I have no issue using CLP for cleaning, they apply Mobile 1 for lube (which will NOT burn off quickly).
There is no free lunch. "Do all" products do not do all well. If you have the time to do it right... do it right. |
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Posted: 11/14/2015 11:09:25 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
CLP is a "jack of all trades, master of NONE". It is not great at ANYTHING (yet does everything). CLP is great if your a soldier in the field and only want to carry ONE product. Otherwise, it sucks. My .02 is to use a proper cleaner, then a proper lube. Most current CLP's (such as break free) lean more on the "cleaner" side (thus they suck as a lube, as it evaporates and burns off quickly), so I have no issue using CLP for cleaning, they apply Mobile 1 for lube (which will NOT burn off quickly). There is no free lunch. "Do all" products do not do all well. If you have the time to do it right... do it right. I understand the theory behind the clp products.. I fully clean with Hoppies #9 and then make sure it is dry .Then some kind kind of lube which I was looking to try Slip2000 .. Oh has anyone ever tried using gear oil to lube your AR and I know use Diesel engine oil to lube their gun .. |
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Posted: 11/14/2015 11:22:31 AM EDT
[#20]
Oh for you guys that use motor oil .. Do you use oil as your only lube or with something else and what weight and kind ???
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Posted: 11/14/2015 11:28:28 AM EDT
[#21]
Any good motor oil would work, but some guys swear by mobil 1 synthetic. IDK what weight they use, sure is cheaper than anything else.
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Posted: 11/15/2015 7:28:43 PM EDT
[#22]
The only thing I use Frog Lube for is my knives. Cuz, they don't jam, they do stick though.
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Posted: 11/15/2015 7:50:00 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The only thing I use Frog Lube for is my knives. Cuz, they don't jam, they do stick though. I have been putting FL on anything I take on the water while here in FL fishing. Great corrosion protection. |
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Posted: 11/16/2015 2:18:20 PM EDT
[#24]
Here's what I use -
WD40: Clean Motor Oil/ATF: Lube Grease: Lube and Storage RID (Rust Inhibiting Grease), Paste Wax: Storage only. Paste wax applied to the surface and then warmed with a hair dryer seems to work nicely with a parkerized finish. Storage: A safe with a heating rod and desiccant packs. |
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Posted: 11/16/2015 2:33:23 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Oh for you guys that use motor oil .. Do you use oil as your only lube or with something else and what weight and kind ??? What ever wt your car takes, the amount left in the bottles will last till your next oci. |
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Posted: 11/16/2015 4:06:46 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How boring. No...more like how stupid. To take a functioning rifle apart to lube it...ridiculous 
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Posted: 11/16/2015 10:22:13 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No...more like how stupid. To take a functioning rifle apart to lube it...ridiculous Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
How boring. No...more like how stupid. To take a functioning rifle apart to lube it...ridiculous I know better lol.. But I have yet to get all my parts to complete my build but I plan on starting to put together what I can and will follow the advice giving ... |
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Posted: 11/18/2015 11:29:18 PM EDT
[#28]
Lately have been doing my research on frog and found mixed results and opinions.. Imo it looks like a pain to apply but I do know the heating part does help other lubes work better if they are applied when then the part is hot.. For me the frog lube looks good cause I little kids and don't have to worry about them getting into it .. But what scares me is the wax lube really only works when the gun is hot .. Well I bench shoot and pop a couple rounds per mag and take my time shooting and loading mags.. So that leaves my gun pretty cool and I am worried about the lube not doing it's job????
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Posted: 11/19/2015 5:47:58 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Lately have been doing my research on frog and found mixed results and opinions.. Imo it looks like a pain to apply but I do know the heating part does help other lubes work better if they are applied when then the part is hot.. For me the frog lube looks good cause I little kids and don't have to worry about them getting into it .. But what scares me is the wax lube really only works when the gun is hot .. Well I bench shoot and pop a couple rounds per mag and take my time shooting and loading mags.. So that leaves my gun pretty cool and I am worried about the lube not doing it's job???? My issue with Froglube is that if you don't apply it thickly, rust happens. If you apply it more than the "sheen" that works best, gumminess happens. I couldn't win with that product. If you are worried about your kids getting into it, SLIP 2000 EWL, FireClean, and I am sure several other products are a LOT safer than probably even your care products in the bathroom. |
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Posted: 11/19/2015 11:08:51 PM EDT
[#30]
I use a dab of grease in the cam pin "track", either a synthetic gun grease or Amsoil boat trailer wheel bearing grease and Amsoil 5w30 or 0w30 for oil, quite a bit on the bolt, rings and in the BC. I also have some of the old thick LSA and I squirt some of this into the cavity at the cam pin. Its an old habit from SE Asia. Done this way they will shoot all the ammo I used to carry, 22-23 20 round mags, and still be wet and good to go. If its cold (Montana) I may skip the grease and the LSA since the Amsoil has about -50 pour point. 5w30 Mobil 1 is a decent substitute for Amsoil. I run Amsoil in vehicles so the gun oil is free if I drain the bottles after an oil change. One shot with a really wet BCG will oil the inside of the upper so the outside of the bolt does not need much when the parts are put back in the upper. People that run ARs dry are not helping the rifle or themselves.
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Posted: 11/20/2015 3:15:29 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No...more like how stupid. To take a functioning rifle apart to lube it...ridiculous Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: How boring. No...more like how stupid. To take a functioning rifle apart to lube it...ridiculous Every new weapon I get is detail stripped and treated with Slip 2000 products right out of the box. I like that system and it's worked quite well for me. Carbon simply doesn't adhere to any part of my firearms. So why does this offend you? As for the guy asking the question, I never told him to do that. I simply offered what I did. If someone is uncomfortable doing that kind of work on an AR-15, they should obviously skip over it. |
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Posted: 11/21/2015 12:06:39 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Every new weapon I get is detail stripped and treated with Slip 2000 products right out of the box. I like that system and it's worked quite well for me. Carbon simply doesn't adhere to any part of my firearms. So why does this offend you? As for the guy asking the question, I never told him to do that. I simply offered what I did. If someone is uncomfortable doing that kind of work on an AR-15, they should obviously skip over it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
How boring. No...more like how stupid. To take a functioning rifle apart to lube it...ridiculous Every new weapon I get is detail stripped and treated with Slip 2000 products right out of the box. I like that system and it's worked quite well for me. Carbon simply doesn't adhere to any part of my firearms. So why does this offend you? As for the guy asking the question, I never told him to do that. I simply offered what I did. If someone is uncomfortable doing that kind of work on an AR-15, they should obviously skip over it. Slip2000 EWG is not the correct grease for assembly of the barrel nut or the castle nut/receiver extension. It might work but it's not the correct grease to use. I'm picking nits though because I also do not use the "correct" AeroShell 33MS grease for assembly of those items. |
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Posted: 11/21/2015 9:39:32 PM EDT
[#33]
I think most people probably don't use the correct grease. I've seen a number of people online arguing about it. After going through a multitude of threads, I just settled to used something that didn't have graphite.
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Posted: 11/21/2015 11:12:22 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think most people probably don't use the correct grease. I've seen a number of people online arguing about it. After going through a multitude of threads, I just settled to used something that didn't have graphite. I think the same. Even Colt uses something different than AeroShell 33MS, Dow Molykote IIRC. I use TS-70 moly paste. |
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Posted: 11/22/2015 10:57:17 AM EDT
[#35]
The purpose of the grease is to prevent corrosion of dissimilar metals. So pretty much any grease will work. Using something similar to AeroShell is fine. I have some AeroShell that I got a while ago.
Moly grease used for brakes is good too. |
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