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Posted: 10/26/2015 12:23:17 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
My DD 10.3" barrel is covered by a rail so i tend to forget about it and just pulled the rail of this weekend and sure enough the exterior is covered in rust again. Do most people oil their the exterior of their barrel after cleaning? If so how do you guys do it with a rail? Only thing i can think of is to hold it barrel down and spray some wd40 with the plastic tube through a hole in the rail and let it run down vertically to coat the barrel. Kind of messy but i dont know what else to do. Everything that is metal gets a light film of oil on all my firearms. I don't really like WD40 because it's extremely light and seems to evaporate off too quickly. I periodically apply a very thin film of Mobil 1 synthetic to the barrel. Same stuff I use for my motorcycles. It's kind of a PITA, but I wrap a small thin piece of oily rag a few times around a cleaning rod and work it down the barrel. Be careful not to leave the end of the rod uncovered as it could potentially scratch the barrel. If needed, I'll also put a few small drops of oil onto the barrel through the rail to get better coverage while I'm doing it. Just spraying a bunch of oil in there will work, but it'll create a heck of a mess and just end up being a dirt and dust trap. That's just what I do. I'm sure there are a hundred different solutions. |
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Posted: 10/26/2015 12:24:47 PM EDT
[#2]
I wouldn't use wd40. Use clp or some type of quality gun oil
Can you fit a patch on a rod in there? |
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Posted: 10/26/2015 12:40:23 PM EDT
[#3]
how do you oil a barrel under the rail?
remove the rail every time you clean? |
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Posted: 10/26/2015 12:54:41 PM EDT
[#4]
WD40 is crap for rust prevention.
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Posted: 10/26/2015 12:54:49 PM EDT
[#5]
Treat it with Eezox.
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Posted: 10/26/2015 2:30:24 PM EDT
[#6]
I have found FIREClean to be the best product for something like this (open-air corrosion). It also has the bonus of a high smoke point.
For parts that rust while in contact with things (say, a sweaty shirt), I have found Gunslick foaming oil to be absurdly effective. |
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Posted: 10/26/2015 4:06:28 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Treat it with Eezox. +1 OR HIGH TEMP PAINT |
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Posted: 10/27/2015 11:21:58 AM EDT
[#8]
WD40 is not a rust remover or a lubricant. Its a Water Displacer.
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Posted: 10/27/2015 2:16:06 PM EDT
[#9]
During monsoon season we used WD-40 and with a 1" paint brush we would "paint" it on the steel parts on our M-16's and M-14's and never had one rust. We did this a couple of times a day. It worked for us.
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Posted: 10/27/2015 9:08:55 PM EDT
[#10]
I got deer blood and Copenhagen spit on my barrel and it rusted before.
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Posted: 10/28/2015 3:20:16 AM EDT
[#11]
I pull the rail and use a high temp paint like an engine paint, or even Aluminahyde from Brownells.
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Posted: 10/28/2015 11:33:50 AM EDT
[#12]
For a spray oil I've had good luck with Remington oil and Casey Birchwood, both seem to leave a light residue that doesn't run like most oils do, that's what I use to spray down frames & receivers, anything that gets a lot of fingerprints. Easy to spray in hard to reach places.
Whatever oil/lube you use is probably going to have to be reapplied regularly with the heat from the barrel, if you go to the trouble of pulling the quad rail I'd look at a hi temp spray paint or rust inhibitor instead. But keeping it oiled should keep rust from spreading. |
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Posted: 10/28/2015 12:31:13 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
how do you oil a barrel under the rail? remove the rail every time you clean? Um i would prefer not to remove it every time i clean it, kind of a PITA Ive considered going the painting route. I shoot full auto a lot so im not sure how even cerakote would hold up. |
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Posted: 10/28/2015 12:32:33 PM EDT
[#14]
Paint it.
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Posted: 10/28/2015 1:40:15 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Um i would prefer not to remove it every time i clean it, kind of a PITA Ive considered going the painting route. I shoot full auto a lot so im not sure how even cerakote would hold up. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
how do you oil a barrel under the rail? remove the rail every time you clean? Um i would prefer not to remove it every time i clean it, kind of a PITA Ive considered going the painting route. I shoot full auto a lot so im not sure how even cerakote would hold up. Take the bottom rail off...it does come off like the M4 RIS II right? If so take it off after shooting and use a shoe lace in oil to floss the barrel basically. |
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Posted: 10/30/2015 3:43:51 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Um i would prefer not to remove it every time i clean it, kind of a PITA Ive considered going the painting route. I shoot full auto a lot so im not sure how even cerakote would hold up. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
how do you oil a barrel under the rail? remove the rail every time you clean? Um i would prefer not to remove it every time i clean it, kind of a PITA Ive considered going the painting route. I shoot full auto a lot so im not sure how even cerakote would hold up. It will hold up fine. You can get their air cured high temp coating that will handle the heat better than the barrel it's on. By the time you damage the coating, the temper of the barrel will be ruined by the heat. It's been successfully used on suppressors (silencers) that have become red hot and glowing without damage. The same for the high temp exhaust paints that are baked on in three steps, or even the air cured barbque paint that can handle over a thousand degrees. |
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Posted: 10/30/2015 8:52:46 PM EDT
[#17]
If it wipes off it is not rust.
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Posted: 10/30/2015 9:48:09 PM EDT
[#18]
I remember having this issue with a BM barrel after an outing and didn't clean it right away. It was raining a little bit. Anyways, saw the rust spots and freaked out a bit. Thought the barrel treatment was suppose to help with this. Anyways, cleaned what I could with lots of q-tips and scrubbed as much as I could with a brush underneath the rail. Then just hosed it down with BreakFree CLP spray. The next time I went out, wow was my barrel smoking, LOL. After that, I never got the rust spots again.
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Posted: 10/31/2015 1:26:01 AM EDT
[#19]
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Posted: 11/2/2015 12:52:33 PM EDT
[#20]
i have not had this problem since I started putting a light coat of clp or wd40 on every time I clean or put in storage and at least twice a year wether used or not. I spray the bristles of a used tooth bush or a q-tip and brush on.
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Posted: 11/2/2015 7:18:19 PM EDT
[#21]
What is the barrel made from? SS?
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Posted: 11/2/2015 7:58:37 PM EDT
[#22]
I'm hooked on Hornady OneShot Extreme. I just spray it thru the holes in the rail.
This stuff has been the nest or tied for the best in all tests I've seen using high carbon steel and salt water. |
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Posted: 11/3/2015 2:32:00 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm hooked on Hornady OneShot Extreme. I just spray it thru the holes in the rail. This stuff has been the nest or tied for the best in all tests I've seen using high carbon steel and salt water. Good stuff. I use it on trigger groups. |
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Posted: 11/3/2015 10:59:06 AM EDT
[#24]
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Posted: 11/15/2015 1:21:59 AM EDT
[#25]
I use a medium sized paint brush dipped in a little bit of (insert preferred protectant oil here) and stick it through the holes to get the barrel oiled, then wipe off the excess oil. This is only because I have BUIS so I can't take off the rail. My scoped rifle doesn't have BUIS on it and the giessele mk8 rail is super easy to take off so I just remove it every time. However I'll be rebuilding this upper and when I do I'll use the Knights urx 3.1, which has a removable bottom rail, so I can just take bottom off and oil the barrel while leaving my BUIS zero'd. There doesn't seem to be a very efficient way to do this otherwise, so maybe someone should invent a product to solve this, and become a millionaire. Just a thought.
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Posted: 11/16/2015 7:17:25 PM EDT
[#26]
Good for up to 500 degrees,
http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/engineenamel/ Good to 900 degrees but only available in a matte black. http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/caliperpaint/ Old thread on paint, http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=4&f=51&t=109496 |
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Posted: 11/22/2015 8:52:50 AM EDT
[#27]
+1 degrease the barrel with a scratch pad and paint with 900 degree header paint, done.
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Posted: 11/22/2015 5:17:35 PM EDT
[#28]
I coat the exterior of my barrels with CLP often. On my Block 2 with RIS II, I remove the bottom rail, and push a cloth until it is wrapped around the barrel, squirt CLP in the cloth, and kind of "hammock" the cloth back and forth around the barrel, until the whole barrel is coated. It's a pain with the RIS II bit using this method works.
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Posted: 11/24/2015 2:35:41 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For a spray oil I've had good luck with Remington oil and Casey Birchwood, both seem to leave a light residue that doesn't run like most oils do, that's what I use to spray down frames & receivers, anything that gets a lot of fingerprints. Easy to spray in hard to reach places. Whatever oil/lube you use is probably going to have to be reapplied regularly with the heat from the barrel, if you go to the trouble of pulling the quad rail I'd look at a hi temp spray paint or rust inhibitor instead. But keeping it oiled should keep rust from spreading. I stopped using Rem Oil after it failed me on my 870. Started to get rust on the rib of a 28" Syn wing a few seasons ago hunting pheasant in inclement weather. I switched to Froglube a few years ago and never looked back. Heat from the barrel will only allow to penetrate into the metal. I have an ongoing test of Froglube on a HiLift jack that has a permanent home on my FJ. It has kept that jack from rusting for 3 years now. I stays on all winter here in Ohio. The only drawback to Froglube is that it becomes very thick in cold weather and can cause jams if the gun is over lubricated. I run my guns almost dry when treated with froglube in the winter. |
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Posted: 11/30/2015 7:02:39 PM EDT
[#30]
The rail has holes in it, right? Spray some kind of gun oil in there and let the excess drip off toward the muzzle. When it stops dripping, wipe off the excess and shoot. It will smoke when it gets hot.
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Posted: 12/14/2015 2:02:57 PM EDT
[#31]
I've been using Breakfree CLP for the last 26 years for rust prevention and haven't had any problems. If your rail is free-floated you could run a cleaning rod with a big section of an old t-shirt covered in CLP into the open end of the rail and work it around the barrel.
Please DON"T use WD-40. I've been telling my dumb ass father-in-law that for YEARS and he won't listen. I have gotten rust off his guns so many times because of that shit it's not even funny. |
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Posted: 12/14/2015 5:05:13 PM EDT
[#32]
I remove the rail every time I clean. Then I coat the exterior in CLP. If I don't do this and don't shoot for a while, I find rust on the exterior of the barrel as well.
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Posted: 12/18/2015 12:59:12 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If it wipes off it is not rust. Quote HistoryQuoted:
If it wipes off it is not rust. That was my first thought. The red below makes it sound like you've cleaned it off in the past. Sounds like you just have a dirty barrel. Quoted:
My DD 10.3" barrel is covered by a rail so i tend to forget about it and just pulled the rail of this weekend and sure enough the exterior is covered in rust again. Do most people oil their the exterior of their barrel after cleaning? If so how do you guys do it with a rail? Only thing i can think of is to hold it barrel down and spray some wd40 with the plastic tube through a hole in the rail and let it run down vertically to coat the barrel. Kind of messy but i dont know what else to do. |
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