Curious to see what everyone out there is using now a day?

I'm thinking about ditching the nylon brushed and bore tech. I have run a brass brush after what I thought was clean with a nylon brush and I was surprised to say the least.

What is everyone using?

I use a .mil M9 cleaning rod, Hoppe's #9, a brass bore brush, a .mil nylon toothbrush, a brass jag, and cotton patches.

To blow out the crud I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner.

And to lubricate I use CLP (Break-Free) or Mobil 1.

That's about it.

Sounds funny, but I don't really spend much time cleaning the chambers, never have.  No issues, cleaning the way I do.

I never, ever, push or pull a brush or patch from muzzle to chamber.

I always pull the brush/patch from chamber to muzzle.   Why push the crud from the barrel back into the chamber/barrel extension?  I want it out of the gun, not moved from one place to another in the gun.

I have not used a chamber brush since my Army days.  I do pull the solvent soaked patch up into the chamber and swirl it around before pulling it through the barrel to the muzzle end and out of the barrel.  I do the same with the cleaning/dry patches.

Works for me.

I do scrape/pick/dab at the crud that ends up around the locking lugs and sometimes use carb cleaner or brake cleaner to help blow that out.  Again, I point the muzzle downwards and let the crud run out the end of the barrel (do this before you clean the barrel).

I do the same with the M1 Garand, M1A, M1917's, etc.

Using Bore Tech Eliminator or Cu+2 with a bronze brush will give you "false positives". My guess is, your barrel was clean until you stuck the bronze brush in it. Bronze contains copper which equals more blue patches.

A nylon bristled Dewey chamber brush.

I used hoppes 9 for 25 years and breakfree LP, many don't know you can buy the CLP without the cleaner. A few years ago I did in depth research on what would be the best for my needs, not a stranger on a forum. In the end I switched all my firearms over to Miles Comm products. It isn't cheap but quality seldom is. It never made sense to me to put a cleaner in the same bottle with lubricant, maybe it does for you. Mil-comm claimed the longer you use it the slicker your action will become. I have found this to be 100% true. I use boresnakes for a quick cleaning at the range. But once home the Dewey chamber rod is used with the blue brushes that Midway sells, these work great and makes cleaning not so bad, lol!!!!!

Otis ripcords and a brass brush for the bore. My M9 rod and a chamber brush covered in a small patch to wipe out the chamber.

Honestly never seen a reason to get all super scrapey scrapey.

I was totally going to just ask this very question.

Thanks OP!

Using Boretech you should avoid brass brushes because it'll forever come out dirty. The reason why is that the Boretech dissolves brass (which is what bullets are made of).So basically never use brass with bore cleaners.

As far as what I'm using, I generally just use CLP, and gun scrubber. I'm also using grease now. Lubriplate SFL-0 is currently my favorite.

After five decades of shooting I use pretty much this. I don't use the brake clean as on some of my firearms it can damage certain materials...being simple minded I know I might forget on that one firearm so I just stopped using it on all rather than screwing up.

For lube I use synthetic automotive oil a lot. I think I use Castrol rather than the Mobil 1 however.  ;-)

It seems to work so why change?

This is why I love my Brothers here on ARFcom.

We always have several perspectives.

TY, forever4.

I think that I have found what works best for me.

I use Otis Chamber Brushes and a Dewey Chamber rod for cleaning the chambers with Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover. After that is clean I use the C4 down the barrel like the directions say and then Bore Tech Eliminator for the final cleaning to remove the copper.

As far as lube goes I was using FireClean but then one day I decided to try and  use Brad Penn 10W-30 Racing oil(the green oil) that I had a few quarts of laying around in the garage from a few of the race cars. This stuff seemed to work better than the fireclean and cleaned up just as easily. Not to mention it is a hell of a lot cheaper!

Spray BCG with CLP then brush it with toothbrush, wipe off with blue shop towel. Wipe out upper with same rag. Spray CLP in barrel extension and chamber, hit with chamber brush. Tear off cloth and wipe up barrel extension with cloth and curved pick. Boresnake pass 2-3 times then lube the bolt and you're done.

5 ARs and 7-8k rounds no problems yet.

Remington 40X bore cleaner if I really want to scrub it out, but usually just a few patches soaked in Aero Kroil.

Hello, for cleaning I use Hoppe's #9 and for lube I use CLP with powered Molly mixed in. I also do the same with my 1911 and makes for a very smooth action.
Don

I use "Ed's Red" homemade bore cleaner. It's a mixture of four different solvents you can mix together and put in a metal gallon container (like a Coleman fuel container). Google the name and I'm sure you can find the mixture recipe. I usually run some saturated patches through the bore (chamber to muzzle) , then run a nylon brush back and forth. I then wrap dry patches around the brush and run through barrel until it comes up clean. I soak other components in a cup with Ed's, then brush with an old toothbrush. Lube with Mobil 1 5w-20.

Periodic cleaning
http://www.sinclairintl.com/gun-cleaning/ar-15-cleaning/sinclair-ar-15-and-ar-10-lug-recess-tool-prod34907.aspx

http://www.sinclairintl.com/gun-cleaning/ar-15-cleaning/ar-15-chamber-brush-rod-kit-prod34333.aspx

Normal, just a 2 1/4" patch to solvent soak and dry

Hoppes #9 and a brass chamber brush followed by a bore guide and more Hoppes on a brass bore brush followed by CLP on cotton patches on a brass jag.

The KG carbon and then copper solvents on a patch on a good cleaning rod.  Every 2k rounds or so.....maybe.

For AR:

Dewey coated or Pro-Shot SS 20cal rod+jag with Butches Bore Shine triple-twill 1-1/2" or 1-3/4" patches.

Dewey coated or Pro-Shot SS 22cal rod with Brownells brass core 22cal brushes. Usually just bronze bristles. I don't use nylon much.

Lucas Bore Guide with the respective guides for the 20cal and 22cal rods.

M-Pro7 for general cleaning (including bore). Montana Xtreme copper solvent mainly for use in SS barrels. Chrome lined, not so much.

Slip2000 EWL for lube/preservative.

allensaldi,

I just use a brass or copper bore brush on my chambers and then follow with a cleaning of the bore using a nylon bore brush.

Impala

Crisco


Errrr I ment to say wonder uber lube .

My father has used Hoppes #9 forever. The smell brings back childhood memories. Some of his guns were my grandfathers and they are in great shape. I am 51 years old and I use Hoppes too. it works and I have seen first hand how guns look after 50 or more years of Hoppes use.

Is there better stuff out there, maybe. I have tried some other solvents looking for a better cleaner but always end up back with Hoppes. It works, smells a bit but not horrible and is proven.

I usually use RemOil in a spray can to wipe the exterior of my guns. For lubricating I use whatever I have around. Somehow I always seem to have a can of oil I don't remember where I even got it.

I have tried Kroil on advice of  friend. it seems to work about as good as Hoppes for cleaning.

If I ever run out of gun oil I probably will just use Mobil 1.

Great topic.  I've the same question.

I subscribed to this thread.

Thanks OP.

Best,

LF

Bronze bore brush, Bronze chamber brush, CLP, Hoppes #9, large sized gun patches to swab out upper.  I don't clean until about 400 rounds but I do lube after every range session.

Honestly for non match barrels, particularly chromed or nitrited ones, all I typically do is run a couple oiled soaked patches through it, then if Its sat awhile and I get bored I might run another one to get anything that was loosened up. I've bore brushed certain guns that only got patched and got white patches still.

I'm pretty sure most of you won't like my cleaning methods but they work for me. If I am just cleaning carbon and crud-not copper fouling, I use Fast Orange hand cleaner with nylon brush, sometimes a drill on modified cleaning rod. After I am done with that, run a patch with Mobil synthetic oil down it and follow with a couple of clean ones. If really cruddy use the hand cleaner with pumice. This has worked for me for many years.

A little breakfree and swab it out.  Then Otis pull through brushes and patches.  The breakfree cleans the crud right out of the locking lugs etc.

Same things I've been using for the last 25+ years: Hoppes #9 for the bore, CLP for lube and cleaning, non-chlorinated brake cleaner for when I need to really get the crud off. I switched to nylon brushes a few years back. Dewey coated cleaning rods also, except I haven't been using those for 25 years.

Over the years my cleaning regimen has gone from OCD to minimal. I only clean my ARs when the crud is about as thick as margarine, and I don't go nuts trying to clean the bore like I used to. I just make sure the bore has been swabbed with a little CLP when the gun won't be shot for a while. The smell of Hoppes #9 brings back memories of my first real rifle that I got for Christmas when I was 16, a Marlin 336.

chamber brush with hopes #9 , one GI cleaning rod , and one battery operated drill. Insert and spin.

Bore snake and done

Slip 2000 Copper Cutter.  Then I run a wet patch of EWL through and then a dry patch to pick up the excess.

Shooter's Choice for bore cleaning.  Some type of oil for lubrication (typically CLP).

I would use Mobile 1 or some other synthetic, but I don't like the smell of motor oil.

Wipe-Out Patch-Out & WS CLP. Two wet patches of Wipe-Out and let it dwell for a bit and then some dry patches, it works on copper (and brass ferrules...) but it never quite gets all the carbon out probably since it tends to pool on the bottom (supposed to keep it horizontal). A bit of CLP grabs the rest out. I have never, ever used a bore brush. I use the pointed jag to push patches from chamber to muzzle, one piece coated Dewey rod. Some excess gets in the chamber & muzzle I just use Q-tips, it really keeps away buildup from the flash hider.
 



I had been using Hoppes 9 w/o brushing and it just wasn't up to the task.




 

ETA: chrome-lined

In the bore.



For the bcg(dissolved 50/50)

allensaldi,

I juust use my tried and true sectional rods and used bore brushes. If you want to use a nylon brush then get one in 38 caliber and some sort of bore cleaner. I usually just use Breakfree myself.


Impala

I like using a  rod  guide and removable solvent port, not necessary, but makes every thing a lot easier.

http://www.sinclairintl.com/gun-cleaning/rod-guides/bore-guides/semi-auto-rifle-guides/sinclair-specialty-cleaning-rod-guides-prod40914.aspx?avs|Make_3=AR-15%2fM4

Spray the bore and chamber with Ballistol. Scrub chamber with a chamber brush on Dewey chamber rod.



Let the bore sit for awhile then push a patch through. Spray bore again and run a brush through a few times followed by another patch.



Spray bore down again and let it sit for awhile, sometimes up to 24 hours before I do the final cleaning of the bore and chamber.

hoppes 9 it works!

Just twist a large patch around a nylon chamber brush, add some CLP and twist. Done.

Simple, basic and old school.....

and yet it still works.

although I use Bore Scrubber instead of the brake cleaner.

Nylon Brushes really don't get into the rifling like a bronze brush does.

Bore: Shooters Choice MC #7 with a Bronze Brush, patch out dry, follow up with Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner. Wait 30 minutes, Patch out, follow up with CLP / Oil of any kind.

The Shooters Choice takes out powder fouling, and the gunslick will remove the copper fouling, remaining powder residue, as well as any copper left behind by the bore brush.

I just use a 45 caliber bore brush and a nylon brush for the bore soaked in solvent.


Impala

Great thread guys, thanks for all the pointers. However I do have a few questions?

• I use Breakfree's CLP. I've never had a problem with it. It works great. I use it for all my guns. Shall I continue or is there truly a better one out there that is the same price or cheaper?


• From what I have read and you guys have quoted, I can safely use non-chlorinated brake cleaner on my AR? (I have NAPA Gold on hand.) It won't discoler my finish or ruin any polymer parts will it? Jerry Miculek uses Lucas on his chamber and trigger group.


• I hope this one hasn't been beat to death elsewhere, I did look! But what about Fireclean? Is it... great, good, junk, or its trash because its crisco! lol.


• Should I invest in a dedicated bore brush?


• Should I invest in a bore chamber guide


I currently have a Bushmaster Patrolman's carbine that I did some work too. I love my gun, it does have a trigger job, its been free-floated and I use a 1-6x PA optics. I've outfitted it with some Magpul gear that I really like. I've done other things too, but I'm looking to keep my rifle in good shape, and keep it accurate to at least 300 yards. Currently, I can group shots at 100 yards with a 1MOA if I take my time using hand loads, but its more like a 2-3 MOA as I like to shoot fast! (Just to give you an idea on my experience and skill). I also regularly shoot 8" plates at 1, 2 & 300 yards with no real issues, rested, bipod'ed, and standing (I don't know that I've tried 300 yards standing yet, but I will when the weather breaks).

Thanks for all your help!

You could probably just use the second one for everything.

I was pretty amazed at how much copper fouling gets on the bolt/BCG. Not necessary to remove but interesting to see.

I was kind a hoping to get some more answer about my questions. How abot this one, Will non-chlorinated brake cleaner hurt the color and finish of my Magpul MOE+ pistol grip since its right there around the lower assembly?

Hoppe's 9 bore cleaner and Sweet's.

I saw this guy's video and it changed my whole perspective on shit.  Seriously though, he has a great tip that involves a jar.

I always wondered how bad running a brush back and forth instead of just one way would really be to a bore, especially when you're throwing a bullet down through there at 26-3000 FPS versus just running a brass brush back and forth.

I think some will say that it is the carbon scrubbing back and forth in the boar that will wear it prematurely?Not sure how true that is though?

I do like this guys method as it does seem to make bore cleaning go a little bit quicker, especially with those hale style jags.I just ordered a couple of those and I'm going to give them a try.

I personally would avoid getting it on the + grips as they have the rubber coating.
Also, when cleaning the barrel and chamber I will remove the upper from the lower.
I would avoid spraying brake cleaner into the lower. You'd be removing grease and lube from areas you don't want to.
When using brake cleaner, I only use it to clean the chamber and barrel. I don't hose down the whole upper.
I don't use it often. Only if I feel the barrel needs a thorough cleaning, which is rare.

My basic cleaning method is as follows.
Separate upper/lower.
Inspect lower. Function check mag release, bolt catch, selector, trigger/hammer (don't let hammer fall on bare lower, guide it with your thumb)
Wipe dust, fouling and excess junk out of lower with rag.
This should all take less than 1 minute.
Set lower aside.

Remove charging handle and BCG.
Wipe any excess fouling/dust from upper.
Finger blast the barrel extension with rag wrapped around finger.
With a chamber brush on dewey rod, dip brush into hoppes 9, allow excess to drain off brush back into bottle for a few seconds.
Angle barrel about 45* pointing down.
Work the brush in and out of chamber a few times back and forth. On the out stroke, rotate brush and 30* and work it in and out of chamber a few more times.
Finger bang the barrel extension again with rag wrapped finger.
Mop chamber with chamber mop on dewey rod.
Pull bore snake through barrel about 3 or 4 times.
Set upper aside.

Inspect charging handle.
Only clean if there is heavy fouling. If cleaned, use a few dabs of grease, spread around and a couple drops of clp and spread around.Set aside.

Inspect BCG. If you can move the extractor with your finger nail, replace spring/oring. Push on ejector plunger to test function.
Disassemble BCG
Put a few drops of CLP on each part. Scrub with m16 brush. For heavy fouling ( if it bothers you) use a brass brush.
Wipe everything with rag. Twist up the end of the rag to wipe inside carrier.
Do NOT lube the firing pin.
Apply a few dabs of grease to cam pin.
Spread a few drops of clp onto bolt and inside of carrier where bolt rides. Just a light coating.
Reassemble BCG.
Using a toothpick, apply small dabs of grease onto the 4 carrier rails.
If you are in cold weather or your gun runs sluggish with grease, apply a drop of clp over the grease on each rail.
Reassemble upper. Attach onto lower. Function check rifle.
Done

The whole process takes about 5-10 minutes if there are no distractions and you take your time.
I do this every 500-1000 rounds.
Rarely will I do a thorough cleaning of the barrel.

For my 3gun rifle, I do this process before every match.
Only because I am shooting light loads and they tend to foul everything up much faster.

Hale jags are where it's at bro.  Also, I regularly scope my bores, no real sign of accelerated wear due to bores being brushed versus bores not brushed.  I brush with nylon, not bronze or brass.

As for Mr Cleckner, I just bought his book and it's a pretty good read so far.  I'll be doing a review on it in the Precision Rifles sub-forum when I'm done reading.

There's you're winner.

I take a handgun patch soaked in Carbon Cutter, stuff it and leave it in the chamber.  After about 10 minutes the crap literally crumbles out on its own.  Bore snake and profit...