Title says it all saw a youtube video saying to use  grease for lube . After shooting close to 500 rounds last weekend i had zero FTF or malfunctions , when previoisly i was using the little bottle orange bottle of hoppes lube and after about 100 rounds or so it would start to not feed as well . Just thought i would share seems to work very well for me

As long as its not too thick it should work.  Having too much grease on there seems to capture dirt and carbon, creating a gunk.

I use it on AK's.

Some shooters use it on their ARs.

I think there are some better products out there (Lucas Extreme), but it does work.

I've never tried to use grease on the AR15.  It's bad enough to clean up with just oil for lube.

I do use marine grade bearing grease on my SIG 556R and the M1's and M1A.  The grease in the SIG has been there a couple of years now.  Only the bolt face gets dirty on the SIG, the receiver and rails stay pretty clean.

We use Mobilgrease 28 on a variety of weapon systems.

I use it on the FCG of my issue M4 and my personal ARs.

I don't know if it is available in "personal consumption" sized containers.

I use mobil synthetic grease on the garands, but I haven't tried it on the ARs.  If you're having trouble feeding after 100 rounds it seems to me that you have a different issue.  A hundred rounds should be no problem even if its pretty dry.

It will get to gummy and slow up the action. I greased (aurosol Mystic brand) a Saiga 12 and it started short stroking shortly after. Grease attracts / retains the carbon residue. CLP, PB Blaster or WD40 will actually wash it away. On an AR there is NOTHING that requires grease. Now on other guns, yes, like M14 rollers.

Been using wheel bearing grease on my bolt lugs for years. Never any problem and the lugs still look new. No problem cleaning but I do clean after every use. Can't say for sure it helps, but it sure hasn't hurt anything.

in the heat of the summer i use some grease on different guns on the highest wear parts. Winter i use oil .

I've used Wal-mart synthetic wheel bearing grease on a lot of firearms, works just fine for me. Still prefer TW25 for my pistols but the bearing grease is super cheap and a can lasts forever, any rifle that shoots corrosive ammo usually gets lubed with Ballistol & bearing grease since it's gonna get a hot water flush every cleaning.

White Lithium paste also seems to be a good inexpensive grease substitute but seems to gum up faster than bearing grease, which will also eventually gum up when dirty enough. Not sure what the heat tolerance of white lithium vs synthetic bearing grease actually is, but either should be OK for an AR or AK.

Not my words, but anything that slides on rails gets greased, everything else gets oiled. That's what I go by.

Also have been using wheel bearing grease, but only synthetic.

Vince

I use thinner lubricants... Mercury Outboard Quicksilver 2 cycle racing oil... it is designed to dissipate carbon in the go fast outboards... I use INOX in the Benelli for low temps at Ft Benning

Topic Moved

I use synthetic wheel bearing grease on the buffer/extension tube interior. Haven't used on bolt lugs or anything else. For the other parts I use Mobil1 5-30 as it holds up to heat better/longer, and I always have it available. Haven't tried any of the new-fangled gun oils.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OXIsKEHo-4g

We use Mobilgrease 28 on a variety of weapon systems.

I use it on the FCG of my issue M4 and my personal ARs.

I don't know if it is available in "personal consumption" sized containers.

What about using a Dryflim lube instead of grease ??

The only legit complaint with ATF that ive heard is that it's toxic.   I'm ok with that.

I was a Mobile 1 10w30 fan (still kind of am)... however, I'm currently trying Walmart Supertech "Multi duty complex" High temp grease (dirt cheap, like $4 per 14 oz can) and it seems to be working fantastic. However, I don't do high round counts, and clean after every range trip, so my findings are probably pretty much worthless.
I just got tired of Mobile 1 running EVERYWHERE (making a mess) and wanted to try grease (ZERO mess).

I use Slick 50 grease (rated for front disc wheel bearings) on my M1 Garand and semi-auto pistol rails. All other lube points get Break Free CLP, Hoppes oil, or Ballistol, depending on the gun.

I started using Mobil 1 synthetic on the carrier where the bolt cam pin rides, a little on the charging handle sides and latch.



Seems to work OK.

It's impossible to tell how you applied the lube to make any determination if you applied it correctly or not.

It's entirely possible that because you watched the youtube video that you applied the grease to the correct areas on the carrier/bolt that it gave you the illusion that is somehow "better" than the previous lube you used.

As far as using grease, I am a fan of grease now as well. I don't use automotive grease, but I do use Lubriplate SFL-0 which can be picked up at some automotive stores. I'm also a fan of TW25B grease but they are a bit pricey.

Another interesting grease I ran into is the Slip 2000's EWG. It seems to have a temperature rating way up there and it is way cheaper than the tw25b.

I haven't had a lube issue since i started using grease 7~ years ago.

10 is about as cold as it gets here idk in colder climates it might be an issue.

I use a little dab of Aeroshell on my bolt cam pin when the gun sees a thorough cleaning every 1000 rounds or so.  The rest of the gun sees Mobil 1 5W40 synthetic everytime I go out to shoot.

I also use Aeroshell on my pistol slides, and a little bit on my shotguns.  I use Mobil 1 on these guns as well.

So far this combo has worked down to -15 with no issues.

I was a CLP user, then LP user, and then switched to grease.

To be specific, I use Mobil 1 Synthetic wheel bearing grease. It is a pink/red color. A single tub of it has lasted
many years. It works in all temps on my AR's and I use it during the summer on my Sig pistol.

This is based upon my experiences.

I went to a carbine course during the winter and the temp was in the upper teens to low 20's. While that is not considered 'cold' in
some parts of the country (especially since I am from the midwest), that is cold for my current area of residence. The carbine ran fine using grease,
however, the pistol was sluggish (the slide cycled, but not smoothly). When gun warmed-up (after a few magazines), it ran fine.
So, during lunch break, I took the pistol and wiped off the grease as best I could. I applied TW 25b to the pistol
and it ran flawlessly afterwards. The action spring of the AR overcomes any resistance due to the grease being less viscous in cold temps.
Pistol springs generally cannot do the same.

The synthetic grease does get some gunk on it however, since it does not run like thinner lubes, it stays in place and provides excellent lubrication. This is
in spite of the extra 'gunk' that it collects. I use a lot of grease on the bolt. Not a thin sheen, but, a generous amount on the bolt and a
thin bead of grease along the rails of the carrier. The heavy amount of grease allows for easy cleaning. All that gunk comes off
with a wipe (since it is suspended in the grease soap/thickener).

I go to a lot of carbine courses (at least two per year) and I run my AR hard, so, I like grease.

In the end, lubricant choices are an individual choice thing.

If you take your AR to the range and casually plink, then CLP (or anything) will be fine.

If you run your AR hard, then you'll need something that stays put and provides lasting lubricity. For me, that's grease.

Sure, I have TW25b (excellent stuff), but that stuff is expensive, so it gets used on the sidearm. One tub of Mobil 1 synthetic grease will last years
and costs less than $10.

There are folks that swear by motor oil, ATF fluid, or the many gun-specific lubricants out there. They all work.

Bottom line:

Make sure you properly lube your guns; with whatever it is you want to use.

The AR needs lots of lube, beyond that, it is simply a matter of personal preference.

You are either using way too much grease or your firearms are all crap.

When either oil or grease is properly applied, a thin coating should be all that is visible. Even with too much, a gun should not have much issue.

I use Magnalube on all my firearms- pistols, revolver, lever actions, bolt actions, semi-auto rifles. Oil is used for the hard-to-reach places- hammer/trigger axis pins, extractors, ejectors, etc...

Weird double tap.