Hey everyone. I got my first AR back in late April from my wife as an anniversary gift. It's the PSA Freedom Series, Chambered in 5.56. It's been an awesome gun. I run a few hundred rounds through it over 3 different outings.  I've cleaned it twice.  This is my first semi-auto rifle.  I'm a big hunter and mostly have used a bow, shotgun or bolt-action.  So, I've cleaned the gun twice, like I said, and I've taken it apart and used solvent followed by oil in the barrel, chamber and on/in the BCG. Basically anywhere powder residue gets I use that combination and thoroughly clean the rifle. I then use a dry-cloth to wipe down everything, removing most of the oil and leaving a very thin layer in place.  I use oil and dry-cloth only on the outside. So, tonight is the first time I've read the specific cleaning instructions in the Owner's Manual (I know, please... I don't need scolded about how I should have done that first).  The Manual says to NOT oil the Chamber, and to NOT lubricate the inside of the Carrier.  Like I said, I was taught that Powder Solvent is serious stuff, and leaving it on/in the gun for long periods of time can damage it, therefore you should always run over parts where Solvent was used with an Oil before putting it all back together.  So, long story short... I've twice now oiled my Chamber and Lubricated the inside of the Carrier. Rifle is running like a dream, and it supremely accurate with many differnt types of ammo.  Am I at risk of damaging the rifle by continuing to clean this way?  Why would they tell you not to have the moving internals of this rifle lubricated, allowing for as little friction and wear-down as possible?  Any help would be greatly appreciated, so I can change my cleaning method before damaging this gun I love so much!

Thanks,
Doc1.

ARs generally like to run wet. But this could accumulate dust over time so clean it frequently. There is real issue well lubing the bolt carrier

while you are correct about ar's wanting to run wet, you are wrong about everything else

So, what do I do? Continue my current cleaning plan, or something else?  If something else, what do you all recommend?

Get good lube, like motor oil, or slip 2000, clean and oil every 1000 rounds

You can push it to more, but there is no real reason to.

As for cleaning, field strip, wipe all the crap away, run a boresnake through the barrel, and lube, re-assemble and go shoot

Thanks!

Except Boresnakes don't really do anything more than pulling light carbon fouling out of your barrel.

Honestly I've never heard of using motor oil on a firearm...??

All I do cleaning wise is spray the bcg with break cleaner wipe it down with marvel oil. run a couple of patches through the tube after 500 rounds.

Works great. I use Mobil 1 synthetic 10w30. Stays where you put it and wipes up easy when you clean.

Ok... So you all don't clean the rifle after ever shooting session?

No real need to. If I shoot suppressed during the session I will because it gets VERY dirty, but otherwise no. Just keep it lubed and it'll keep running.

Unless he is shooting a super match grade bench gun, he won't see any advantage to using more traditional methods

nope, just lube and shoot

I don't care if I only shoot 5 rounds, my rifle gets cleaned within 24 hurs. Is it really needed? Of course not, do I feel better by keeping a clean rifle, Of course I do, am I anal? Damn straight I am. I am also not the dude at the range with a jamb every few rounds because he wanted to see how far he can go without cleaning. Been there, done that and seen the video on YouTube. Many use motor oil, ATF, you name it, I have seen it. I prefer to keep motor oil in my motor and a quality gun lube on my rifles. There are several lubes and cleaners that I consider to be quality. I myself use nothing but Mil Comm products. They were created for the sole purpose of lubing the gatlin type guns that hang out of a Heli. Have you ever seen the river of brass that flies out of one of these in FA? If it can handle that, it will have no issues at all on my firearms. Boresnakes are fine for a quick clean at the range. But when you get home, do it right. I actually enjoy taking my rifle apart and inspecting and cleaning all the components. YMMV?
NCH

The advantage would be he would actually clean copper and carbon fouling out of his barrel. Boresnakes and CLP just don't get it done. Clean barrels shoot better.

Thank you everyone!  I agree, I think I'll just commit to keeping it clean and inspected rather than risk it!  Also, this past time when I was cleaning the rifle... I found a few tiny "flecks" of what looked like brass within the inner components of the rifle... it was almost like tiny pieces of the cartridge left behind.  Someone mentioned that a "proper" cleaning will remove this stuff.  Is that common?  I mean, they were REALLY little... like the size of a piece of black pepper that would come out of the shaker at your kitchen table.

I was taught to not get any oil in the lowere reciever.  However, I add a little to the fire control pins from the outside.

I usually spray a little CLP in the barrel after a shooting and let it foam and drain through the barrel before running a boresnake through it a few times.  

I clean the chamber with various things but get it clean.  Old T-shirts cut into patches work great for this.

I take the bolt carrier and bolt all apart and soak them in brake cleaner stuff.  I then scrub them good and dry them completely.  Use a cheap carbon tool from EBAY to clean the bolt and inside of carrier.  This is the fun part for some odd reason.

I oil the Bolt Carrier and bolt pretty good.  I also oil up the charging handle.

I don't oil the barrel inside.  Some say to do that if storing for extended times.  

Thanks man!  Hey... I know this if off-topic, but posted 3-4 times asking for some help with this, and nobody with answer me... how do I post pictures to this website??

Doc1,

Where I live I only use oil like Rem Oil or Breakfree for all my cleaning duties with rifles that has a chrome bores. The ones that don't your need a general bore cleaner like Hoppe's or my main bore cleaner "Birchwood Casey's Bore Scrubber". This is a little stronger than Hoppe's and will attack copper residue faster. Everything else is pure oil like what I already stated and a good GI plastic brush.

In your region just push through a wet patch of oil and go have a beer.


Impala

you need to upload your pictures to a hosting site like photobucket then copy the direct link. Next click on the little picture box below the message box on this site and paste the link in the box that shows up.

Thanks!!

Here here +1 and this makes 2 of us!

My Cleaning Supply List:

BreakFree CLP
QTips
Nylon ToothBrush
BoreSnake
Time
Love

Good enough for gov't work, good enough for me. Guess it's just how I was ingrained as a boot. I have faith in my weapon systems because I know they are clean. Shoot enough and eventually a FTF/FTE WILL happen, I don't care if youre God's gift to the trigger. I like to know that it won't be due to my lack of care, same as with my vehicles. A little PM goes a long way...

The reason for not oiling the chamber is because it can and will cause pressures to spike, so do not oil the chamber.

As far as all of the special oils, the vast majority are synthetic motor oil with a few additives.

The truth is that you don't need any additives. The best mix has been used in shooting circles , and recommended by manufacturers for years, and it's a synthetic motor oil mixed with ATF until it is red. You will need to shake it up before use each time.

If you're looking to store the rifle for very long periods, then use a product designed specifically for rust prevention. If you're shooting it, then the synthoil / ATF mix is the best thing going.

If you want to get really picky and do it perfectly, then you would use the appropriate grease on all of the parts that slide, and the oil/ATF mix on all the parts that rotate.

Buy a bore guide and use it.

Don't over clean. '

You only need to use a copper solvent occasionally. When you shoot, the pores of the metal open, and copper fills the microscopic holes, leading to a smoother ( technically ) barrel. Your gun will settle in and be more accurate once it is seasoned and the copper is in place.

What you want to use is a good carbon cleaner when you clean, use patches and not brushes, unless you use a nylon brush. Use a good one piece rod with bearings in the handle.

NO baloney:  I haven't cleaned my main AR since G.W. Bush was president.   Several thousand rounds since then.    I just keep adding Breakfree LP.   Google an article called "Cleaning your AR-15 is pretty much a waste of time."

Pretty soon I'll give her a thorough cleaning, just so I can inspect parts.    Then re-CLP and I'm set well into Hilary's second term.

Don't bother cleaning unless you know you got dirt into it.    I mean external dirt, not shooting by-product.

More exactly, an oiled chamber will result not in higher pressures, but higher "bolt thrust."   In a dry chamber, the pressurized case sticks to the chamber walls.   If the chamber walls are oily, it it won't "grab" as hard and the result is the round will try to slide back in the chamber, putting additional pressure through the case head onto the bolt face.     Keep that chamber dry.

Which manufacturer recommends a home-made mix of ATF and motor oil?  But it will work;   just about any liquid lube will work in an AR.   I use LP on the lugs and cam pin, CLP everywhere else.  

"Grease if it slides, oil if it rotates."  No.   Grease in an AR collects smokeless powder residue.   Mixed with grease it forms an abrasive paste.  Not good.  It will also collect environmental dust and grit with the same result.