This is the guide I got from Noveske for barrel brake in. I'm a newb and I'm having trouble understanding it. A little help would be great thanks.

"Break-in
It is necessary to clean your barrel well using proper cleaning equipment prior to use of the barrel. We have not found any benefits when using an extended break-in procedure.
Cleaning Supplies & Techniques
We like the Dewey coated rods, a good bore guide, copper/bronze brushes and cotton flannel patches, the appropriate size to keep that jag and rod in the middle of the bore. When cleaning, the brush or jag should only travel through the barrel from the breech to the muzzle, the same as the path of the bullet. Do not ever pull a brush or jag back through the crown of the barrel. You will need a good carbon solvent, like KG 1. Shooters Choice or CR-10 will chemically loosen the copper fouling, but KG 2 is found to remove the copper without the use of chemical solvents which may attack barrel steel. After cleaning with chemical solvents, neutralize the solvents with denatured alcohol or oil and patch dry. If using KG 2 or any other micro abrasive product, use KG 3 solvent to flush out the bore, spraying from the breech with muzzle end down. Always finish with Tetra Gun Oil or KG 4.   Never shoot a dry bore (chemically stripped) as this will greatly promote copper fouling.  Clean the chamber with a cloth chamber mop, not a GI chamber brush."

I have a good cleaning rod, nylon brush, bore mop, brass brush and jag as well as the flannel patches. My local gun store had cr-10 but not kg so I got the cr-10. Can someone help a newb decipher the steps for break in.

Also when I use the cr-10 I'll dry the barrel with a patch or two than what follow up with balistol or leave it dry? Once the gun is clean and ready to shoot how do I break it in?

Barrel break in is a myth perpetrated by a custom barrel maker to increase the number of barrels he sold. I'm sure someone will be along shortly to post the article.

All you need to do is clean the barrel before you shoot it the first time, This is to ensure first and foremost that there are no obstructions in the barrel and to clear any fouling left from the manufacturing process or test firing. It is important to not damage the crown since it is the last part of the barrel the bullet touches and has the greatest impact on accuracy. As for the cleaning products they suggest products "like" whatever is listed. You do not have to use what is specifically listed. You need a copper solvent to remove copper and a different solvent to remove carbon. If you choose to clean the barrel to the point that a patch can go through completely clean that is your choice but it really is not necessary. Barrels shoot differently when perfectly clean vs. fouled. You shoot once with a perfectly clean barrel, the following shots are with a fouled barrel. The trick is to determine how many shots will group the same until the fouling affects accuracy and then clean it.

Most people will fire a fouling shot after cleaning the barrel so they never really have a perfectly clean barrel. If you plan to store the gun long term it is a good idea to run an oil patch through the barrel before putting the gun away. The patch does not need to be soaking wet but if you oil the barrel you need to run a couple dry patches through it before firing. Dry patches will remove any oil laying on the surface of the lands and groves but in theory it will leave trace amounts of oil to help prevent copper fouling.

I guess that's why I was so confused. There break in steps really just involve cleaning the barrel. I was figuring it would tell me to shoot x amount of shots than do x job and repeat x amount of times. The email just says clean and shoot. I went with the cleaners suggested for break in because I know very little as of right now. Searching on this subject only added more confusion because everybody seems to do it different.

OK so what are the best steps to clean? What order do I use my brushes/mop? I know the jag is last. I also have a bore guide and I know not to pull the bore rod back threw the gun.

Thanks again.

Different strokes for different folks and you will get a wide range of opinions but I will use slightly different methods depending on the barrel. If it is a chrome lined barrel I am not as anal about the cleaning as if it were not chrome lined but essentially I use the same method.

To start I tilt the barrel into my trash can and flush it with non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner to flush any loose items out. After it dries I run a couple wet patches of Wipe Out bore cleaner down the barrel and let it soak while I clean the bolt carrier group. Depending on my mood I may run a dry patch and reapply the Wipe Out once or twice while fooling with the BCG and I may or may not run a brass bore brush down the barrel while it is wet. When I am done with the BCG I dry patch the bore until it comes out clean. If I am in a serious cleaning mood I'll reapply the Wipe Out and let it soak for a while before dry patching until the patch comes out relatively clean.

Sometime during this process I clean the chamber using mops and brushes but once I am done with the cleaning I'll run a wet patch of oil down the barrel and call it good.

OK when all done and you run the wet patch of oil down the barrel are you done after that or do you follow it with a dry patch to get any excess oil removed? Is balistol clp good enough for barrel oil?

Yeah the oil patch is the last step. Again, it doesn't have to be soaking wet. The Balistol should be fine.

What is this break in you speak of?

Call the guys at Bore Tech. These are the guys who write the cleaning/break in procedures for companies like GA Precision. If you want expert advice,ask the experts.

They told you they don't recommend "breaking it in"

Barrel break in=farce.

The best watly to break in a barrel is to slap in a 30 round mag and let 'er rip