First. this is a question about BreakFree CLP. I'm not really interested in anything other than BreakFree CLP. I have my reasons.

My reasons. I am a US Navy veteran of 14 years working in aviation. during this time, we used BreakFree and P-D-680 on pretty much everything that didn't have a specific requirements. Naval aircraft weapon systems use it pretty much exclusively as a CLP for pretty much the whole time I was in. It's what I know, It's what I like, and it's what I use. Only looking for BreakFree info here.

Breakfree CLP has changed a bit since I was in. My old Mil-L-63460 supply has finally run out and I had to get a new gallon of the civilian stuff. I understand that its not up to Mil-PRF-63460 Rev E standards and that is my main question, what did it not pass. Also, since the recipe has changed a bit, what is the solvent content and what solvent do they use. We used to cut it with P-D-680, which was pretty much a type of mineral spirits, as needed to suit our needs. Could I use Mil-PRF-680, which I have read is basically a type of naphtha, in the same way? I have downloaded the MSDS and its pretty much useless for answering these things, I miss having access to the military MSDSs with all the ingredients listed.

Thanks in advance for any info you all may offer.

I'm still looking to get my hands on the old stuff with the white Teflon.        I clean with the Safariland CLP and Mobil 1  in a  50/50 mix.   and when I'm all done cleaning and wiping down the weapons.  I place a small coat of the original CLP ( I guard like gold )    over the  moving parts.

You really need to consider the fact that their are better products to use nowadays. CLP was the bomb back in the 80's, and many still use it today, but their are better products to be had.

Since you are pre-military, Thank You, you seem to prefer things that were approved by them. Check out Mil-Comm products, they were designed to lube the gatlin type guns that hang out the door of helo's. Have you seen the river of brass that flies out of those guns in full auto?  I have been using it for 2 years and have no plans of changing.

Just so you know I used nothing but Hoppes #9 and Breakfree LP for 20 + years.  Many people don't know they make a LP version of their product. It never made sense to me to place a solvent in the same bottle as a lubricant, maybe it does to you?  I was recovering from surgery a couple years ago and did a in depth research on the current lubricants and cleaners. I knew more about these products than anyone ever needs to know, it's just the way I am, in the end Mil-Comm was the winner and I highly recommend it to anyone I can. I didn't mean to send you off on a rabbit chase, but consider what I said. If not maybe this will help another member?  

NCH

To be honest, when my supply of Mil-L-63460 ran out I did look at other brands. But one walk down the lube isle and a lot of really expensive experiments later my head was swimming,  so I decided to go with what I know. Now I have a gallon jug of the new stuff and I’m trying to make the most of it based on experience.  Since I have it I might as well use it.

As for solvents in your lube, try this out.

Doing some research, I was able to confirm that MIL-PRf-680 is CAS ID number 64742-88-7 which is a direct match for TT-N-95 ty2, which is aliphatic naphtha. As it were, it is also used in Zippo lighter fluid. Smear some naphtha on a piece of metal and see how fast it evaporates. Now, put a drop of any lube on any surface and let it sit for a minute.  Then put a single drop of naphtha on top of it. That SHT flows everywhere! When the solvent evaporates you are left with an ultra fine sheen of oil on all the surfaces.  The solvent lowers the viscosity and allows the oil to run.

We used to do this to get the BreakFree to penetrate into really tight crevasses of corroded, stripped out fasteners so it could do its job and break the fastener free. If that didn’t work then we grabbed the oil of wintergreen. Anyway, still playing with it to see what I can get. Thinking I will go with naphtha as it doesn’t seem to separate out or break the CLP down, yet anyways. I will post pics and results as I experiment.

The old stuff used to have white Teflon that setteled to the bottom. The new formula does away with that.
I have used Breakfree CLP for years. Also their LP formula which was designed for stainless and full auto guns and has no cleaning abilities. It's also alittle thicker. I am currently trying Slip EWL. Also a great product.
Truth be told. They all work. I usually shoot 200 to 300 rounds at the range and all stay wet. keep the gun lubed and clean up easy. The trick to cleaning with a CLP is to let it soak for at least 15 mins.
Now if I was at a training school and was going to lube my gun in the morning and run 2000 rounds through it that day , then one might clearly be better than another.

I agree that there are many, many products that will do just fine for the vast majority shooters. Like I said I spent 2 weeks and learned a lot about these products. Just because the Naptha evaporates doesn't mean it doesn't affect the make up of the lubricant. I have used Naptha for many years, it is a very strong solvent, don't get in your eyes. I wasn't trying to say that CLP won't fit your needs, I just wanted to give you something to think about. In the end we all have to use what we feel best suits our needs, there is no right or wrong as long as you are using products designed around firearms.  

NCH

You can still buy the old, original CLP in .5 bottles, pints, and gallons.  Try here:

http://www.sprucemtsurplus.com/grease-oil-sealant.html

The current CLP Breakfree seems to work as well as the original and doesn't require as much shaking to mix the components.  It still contains Teflon, just in another form then the original microscopic balls that settled.

If you want to stick to the Mil-spec CLP, Breakfree doesn't meet the current spec anymore. Royco does and so does the easier to find G96 synthetic.
Mil-Comm TW-25b is a great grease and oil. The grease was, and still might be, the only approved lube for the MK19 grenade launcher.
I've been using Tetra oil and grease for about a decade now and have tried more others than I can remember and keep going back to Tetra. I started using it because it was about half the price of TW-25b and comes in a grease and oil. I haven't found any other lube to be noticeably better, and no actual testing (not some bubba posting his backyard test, but real controlled testing) has proven anything to be better. The FALEX test is the only one that's cited and it's not complete enough. Bleach does well on that test as it only tests one thing.

Checkout the post by Blankwaffe98 about halfway down the page of this thread from 2011:   http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_7/537640_Shelf_life_of_Breakfree_CLP.html  

It has some great info concerning the properties of CLP.  Hopefully, it will answer part of your question.  There have been other threads that touch on this subject as well, but I'm unable to find them now.  I do recall however, that the current Safariland CLP is no longer a mil-spec product and contains a lower percentage of solvent than when DOD last had a contract with Break Free for it.

And now for the good news.  You can readily purchase a freshly manufactured CLP that meets all of the specifications for Mil Spec MIL-PRF-63460E and is currently approved by DOD.  It's called G96 Synthetic CLP Gun Oil.  Here is a link that can give you more information on their product to include the DOD approval letter:

http://www.g96.com/products/military-approved-synthetic-clp-gun-oil/

Im no Break Free expert by any stretch of the imagination,so take what I spew out for what its worth.Ive used Break Free since it hit the commercial market and followed it as a gun oil geek for many years,other than that my expertise ends there..

Anyway,in regards to adding additional solvents to the CLP for cleaning,dunkit solutions and what have you,do a search for QUIB's posts on the subject.Probably in the archives here now,but is also on Weapon Evolution forum in one of his instructional tutorials.QUIB has been doing this for years and has written alot about it.
That said I believe the Break Free aerosol CLP still contains more solvent than the thicker liquid version so that it will spray better.So if you want more solvent buy the aerosol version.Myself I like the liquid CLP best.

As far as Break Free CLP not meeting the current Rev.E spec,pure speculation on my part, but the way I read it is the new spec is based around being more environmentally and personal health friendly than previous specs.Break Free CLP still uses a small amount of solvent in its formula so I suspect that may be the reason why its not spec'd.Honestly I could care less either way.Break Free is well established and known to work regardless.

The only difference Ive seen in the Safariland Break Free CLP( liquid version) is that it has a different odor then what the previous formula had, which was known as the "Rev.E commercial formula"(on the MSDS I had anyway)that was intorduced in around 2000.I called Safariland when their Break Free CLP was released due to the different odor and inquired.I was told by the very knowledgeable gentleman there that they had an upgrade to one of the oils used in the formula that they had been testing for a couple years,which gave the CLP an odor of burnt almonds.Otherwise the CLP was the same and performance improved.

IMHO the new Safariland Break Free CLP is the best formula to date.It seems to wet the metal even better than it did.I can say in that regard it sticks around and doesn't evaporate off as bad as the older stuff did .I honestly can't tell any difference in cleaning ability compared to the two previous versions, because it still creeps/penetrates and "wets" the metal like crazy.
Thats one thing Ive always liked about Break Free CLP,it will coat even highly polished steel withoul pulling/beading where other oils bead up as soon as they are applied.I think this is one characteristic that makes it do so well in corrosion tests.

So to end yet another long ramble, I think the Break Free CLP has improved greatly over the years and I sure wouldn't want to return to the CLP of the past.

breakfree clp i put that shit on everything

my maxus loves it. doesnt freeze up, always fires in low teens down to below 0.  not one issue. its a gas operated gun

The dust part of the weapon test. The weapon was also changed from the M16 to either the 240 or 249. Safariland removed the citrus scent only. Don't know the type of solvent or quantity.

 

Just for some additional info....the "PTFE in the Break Free or not" has been discussed for a number of years here.Lots of posts in the archives.

https://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=3&f=7&t=138935

http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=3&f=7&t=451399

The "Rev.E commercial" CLP was a clear amber with a green hue,no PTFE solids visible either.So not a recent change.

i just bought a new can of BF after using other stuff for a while.  i have bought Bf on and off for the last 25 years so i am familiar with the changes.  the new stuff seems to be an awesome cleaner. took all the soot and carbon off easily.  way better than the FP10 i have been using.  i wiped down my gun and then went over it with a dry cloth and was surprised it was still slick feeling.  its a little thinner than i would like for a lube oil so not sure how well it will lube but so far i have been happy with it.   it was 999 for the 12oz can vs 899 for the 4 oz bottle of Fp10

In response to the picture of the two CLPs, the reason for the white lube settling on the bottom, was so you could clean your M16a1 rifle with the cleaner portion, then shake it up and lube your weapon.
I was in the Corps in the early 80s.
Just throwing that info out there in case you didn't know.

Ok, just got an email back from tech support at safariland, the new breakfree is 5% solvent which evaporates within a few minutes. So I will dafinitely be cleaning with a dedicated solvent and using the bf as lube exclusively. been messing around with different quantities of added solvent to my bf and so far I am liking addIng 18% mineral spirits to my bottle for the range, I guess that is 23% total which is close to what I remember for the old mil-l-63460 mix. I have seen no evidence of separation of lube and solvent with a sample sitting over time so the two seem to mix well.