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Posted: 3/8/2015 4:08:47 AM EDT
[#1]
It's a myth
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Posted: 3/8/2015 4:32:58 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's a myth |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 6:52:40 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
It's a myth |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 8:09:28 AM EDT
[#4]
Just be sure to do a complete cleaning including using a chamber brush and lube generously prior to taking the first shot. That should be your break in routine.
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Posted: 3/8/2015 8:37:31 AM EDT
[#5]
Load magazine
shoot until empty repeat clean when you get bored at home |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 8:47:29 AM EDT
[#6]
I don't believe any gun barrel needs breaking in.
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Posted: 3/8/2015 10:46:08 AM EDT
[#7]
If you really have been on here awhile you wouldn't be asking this question, lol!!!!!
These are not match bolt action rifles, there is no need more any special break in period. If you do invest in a high dollar match grade barrel simply follow what the manufacturer recommends. 
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Posted: 3/8/2015 10:48:06 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't believe any gun barrel needs breaking in. That would be a false belief, because plenty barrels do, but you have to pay some serious cash to obtain them. For a standard M4 barrel I will agree with you, but there are always exceptions, especially in the bolt action world.
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Posted: 3/8/2015 10:49:25 AM EDT
[#9]
No.
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Posted: 3/8/2015 11:18:49 AM EDT
[#10]
In order to wring out every last bit of potential from an expensive match barrel, yes.
Manufacturers like Krieger, Bartlein, and others have a suggested break-in procedure. I listen to them. Here's Krieger's explanation of why: When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat. If this copper is allowed to stay in the bore, and subsequent bullets and deposits are fired over it, copper which adheres well to itself, will build up quickly and may be difficult to remove later. So when we break in a barrel, our goal is to get the throat "polished without allowing copper to build up in the bore. This is the reasoning for the fire-one-shot-and-clean procedure. Your typical AR-15 barrel, as part of a reasonably accurate medium-range multi-purpose platform? No. |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 11:34:32 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That would be a false belief, because plenty barrels do, but you have to pay some serious cash to obtain them. For a standard M4 barrel I will agree with you, but there are always exceptions, especially in the bolt action world. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I don't believe any gun barrel needs breaking in. That would be a false belief, because plenty barrels do, but you have to pay some serious cash to obtain them. For a standard M4 barrel I will agree with you, but there are always exceptions, especially in the bolt action world. I have done a dozen bolt guns and a even factory Remington 700 barrels can benefit from this. You can definatly tell the amount of copper fowling keeps reducing the more you clean and re shoot. |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 12:17:00 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That would be a false belief, because plenty barrels do, but you have to pay some serious cash to obtain them. For a standard M4 barrel I will agree with you, but there are always exceptions, especially in the bolt action world. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I don't believe any gun barrel needs breaking in. That would be a false belief, because plenty barrels do, but you have to pay some serious cash to obtain them. For a standard M4 barrel I will agree with you, but there are always exceptions, especially in the bolt action world. I don;'t break those in either. My preference being bartlein |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 1:50:28 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't believe any gun barrel needs breaking in. Yup..waste of time that's never shown appreciable results in any barrel I've tried it in... |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 2:19:03 PM EDT
[#14]
i feel there isn't a need to brake in a barrel per say but i do think after a few range trips it tends to get easier to clean and less copper deposits in the barrel.
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Posted: 3/8/2015 2:38:17 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just be sure to do a complete cleaning including using a chamber brush and lube generously prior to taking the first shot. That should be your break in routine. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just be sure to do a complete cleaning including using a chamber brush and lube generously prior to taking the first shot. That should be your break in routine. Thanks everyone! Love the quick and easy replies telling me I have less work to do! lol. Question: Is a BoreSnake good enough for the barrel cleaning you are instructing or do I need to buy something like this: http://deweyrods.com/product/complete-ar-15-cleaning-kit-30-inch-rod ? Quoted:
If you really have been on here awhile you wouldn't be asking this question, lol!!!!! ...Just because I have been here in the AR15 forum for a few years doesn't mean I've been in this sub-forum before, or in it long enough to see a new thread pop up about breaking in a barrel. |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 2:54:24 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
In order to wring out every last bit of potential from an expensive match barrel, yes. Manufacturers like Krieger, Bartlein, and others have a suggested break-in procedure. I listen to them. Here's Krieger's explanation of why: When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat. If this copper is allowed to stay in the bore, and subsequent bullets and deposits are fired over it, copper which adheres well to itself, will build up quickly and may be difficult to remove later. So when we break in a barrel, our goal is to get the throat "polishedwithout allowing copper to build up in the bore. This is the reasoning for the fire-one-shot-and-clean procedure. Your typical AR-15 barrel, as part of a reasonably accurate medium-range multi-purpose platform? No. 
No! |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 3:49:07 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks everyone! Love the quick and easy replies telling me I have less work to do! lol. Question: Is a BoreSnake good enough for the barrel cleaning you are instructing or do I need to buy something like this: http://deweyrods.com/product/complete-ar-15-cleaning-kit-30-inch-rod ? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just be sure to do a complete cleaning including using a chamber brush and lube generously prior to taking the first shot. That should be your break in routine. Thanks everyone! Love the quick and easy replies telling me I have less work to do! lol. Question: Is a BoreSnake good enough for the barrel cleaning you are instructing or do I need to buy something like this: http://deweyrods.com/product/complete-ar-15-cleaning-kit-30-inch-rod ? Well a BoreSnake won't work with a chamber brush. And a good one piece rod is always a benefit and rarely a negative. If you don't have a decent rod, I'd spring for one if I was in that position. |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 7:25:26 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well a BoreSnake won't work with a chamber brush. And a good one piece rod is always a benefit and rarely a negative. If you don't have a decent rod, I'd spring for one if I was in that position. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just be sure to do a complete cleaning including using a chamber brush and lube generously prior to taking the first shot. That should be your break in routine. Thanks everyone! Love the quick and easy replies telling me I have less work to do! lol. Question: Is a BoreSnake good enough for the barrel cleaning you are instructing or do I need to buy something like this: http://deweyrods.com/product/complete-ar-15-cleaning-kit-30-inch-rod ? Well a BoreSnake won't work with a chamber brush. And a good one piece rod is always a benefit and rarely a negative. If you don't have a decent rod, I'd spring for one if I was in that position. Sorry my bad i wasn't clearly thinking about the chamber, i was thinking about the barrel. Does anyone know of a video or thread (or website or w/e) that has a guide for how to do the cleaning you guys are talking about? I know how to lube the rifle (AR-15 Lube Points sticky thread) and i know that i will get instructions with the lube i buy (planning on buying FrogLube), but the... i guess you could say White Glove cleaning you guys are recommending i do, the pre-first-shot cleaning, any guides out there? Thanks |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 8:02:33 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No! Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: In order to wring out every last bit of potential from an expensive match barrel, yes. Manufacturers like Krieger, Bartlein, and others have a suggested break-in procedure. I listen to them. Here's Krieger's explanation of why: When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat. If this copper is allowed to stay in the bore, and subsequent bullets and deposits are fired over it, copper which adheres well to itself, will build up quickly and may be difficult to remove later. So when we break in a barrel, our goal is to get the throat "polishedwithout allowing copper to build up in the bore. This is the reasoning for the fire-one-shot-and-clean procedure. Your typical AR-15 barrel, as part of a reasonably accurate medium-range multi-purpose platform? No. No! 'No', as in "No, a typical AR-15 barrel doesn't need break-in?" That's what I said. Or "No barrel needs break-in." If the latter, please let us know what qualifies you as more of an expert than the very companies that manufacture precision rifle barrels. |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 9:09:15 PM EDT
[#20]
Stainless steel barrels should be.
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Posted: 3/9/2015 1:53:57 PM EDT
[#21]
Boresnakes are great for a quick cleaning at the range, but they are not a substitute for a good barrel cleaning with quality brushes and solvents. I only use Mil-Comm for all my cleaning and lubrication needs and I also use a snake. If you like the Boresnake try the Otis Ripcord, farbetter and much cheaper. I really like the blue brushes that Midway sells. They have a 4 piece AR15 set for $20 or so and they last far longer than bronze or brass brushes and they retain their original shape unlike bronze or brass. Works for me with a good stiff Dewey Rod you are GTG!!!
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Posted: 3/9/2015 3:12:39 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Stainless steel barrels should be. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Stainless steel barrels should be. Does anyone else agree? Everyone else so far has said its a myth, you are the first to mention because its a SS barrel that something special should be done (breaking it in). Quoted:
Boresnakes are great for a quick cleaning at the range, but they are not a substitute for a good barrel cleaning with quality brushes and solvents. I only use Mil-Comm for all my cleaning and lubrication needs and I also use a snake. If you like the Boresnake try the Otis Ripcord, farbetter and much cheaper. I really like the blue brushes that Midway sells. They have a 4 piece AR15 set for $20 or so and they last far longer than bronze or brass brushes and they retain their original shape unlike bronze or brass. Works for me with a good stiff Dewey Rod you are GTG!!! Interesting about the Otis Ripcord. I'll have to give that a strong look, anyone else have experience with it? Is it GTG? It seems to me the Boresnake is designed to not be disposable and can be washed in the washer/dryer but the Ripcord is designed to be disposable....but on Midway.com they are priced the same... Are these the blue brushes you meant? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2049216465/iosso-eliminator-brush-kit-rifle-thread-nylon Yeah last night I bought the Dewey Rod AR-15 Cleaning Kit along with their AR-15 Pull-Through Cable but I am still i interested in either the Boresnake or the Ripcord. |
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Posted: 3/11/2015 8:47:00 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Does anyone else agree? Everyone else so far has said its a myth, you are the first to mention because its a SS barrel that something special should be done (breaking it in). Interesting about the Otis Ripcord. I'll have to give that a strong look, anyone else have experience with it? Is it GTG? It seems to me the Boresnake is designed to not be disposable and can be washed in the washer/dryer but the Ripcord is designed to be disposable....but on Midway.com they are priced the same... Are these the blue brushes you meant? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2049216465/iosso-eliminator-brush-kit-rifle-thread-nylon Yeah last night I bought the Dewey Rod AR-15 Cleaning Kit along with their AR-15 Pull-Through Cable but I am still i interested in either the Boresnake or the Ripcord. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Stainless steel barrels should be. Does anyone else agree? Everyone else so far has said its a myth, you are the first to mention because its a SS barrel that something special should be done (breaking it in). Quoted:
Boresnakes are great for a quick cleaning at the range, but they are not a substitute for a good barrel cleaning with quality brushes and solvents. I only use Mil-Comm for all my cleaning and lubrication needs and I also use a snake. If you like the Boresnake try the Otis Ripcord, farbetter and much cheaper. I really like the blue brushes that Midway sells. They have a 4 piece AR15 set for $20 or so and they last far longer than bronze or brass brushes and they retain their original shape unlike bronze or brass. Works for me with a good stiff Dewey Rod you are GTG!!! Interesting about the Otis Ripcord. I'll have to give that a strong look, anyone else have experience with it? Is it GTG? It seems to me the Boresnake is designed to not be disposable and can be washed in the washer/dryer but the Ripcord is designed to be disposable....but on Midway.com they are priced the same... Are these the blue brushes you meant? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2049216465/iosso-eliminator-brush-kit-rifle-thread-nylon Yeah last night I bought the Dewey Rod AR-15 Cleaning Kit along with their AR-15 Pull-Through Cable but I am still i interested in either the Boresnake or the Ripcord. OTis is G.T.G. Its great for travel. Makes breech to bore only cleaning fast. Its really good for other types of rifles that will not allow a rod to enter through the breech, such as a ruger mini.. Con: If your patch wants to get jammed as it enters the bore, its hard to back out. |
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Posted: 3/11/2015 7:58:02 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OTis is G.T.G. Its great for travel. Makes breech to bore only cleaning fast. Its really good for other types of rifles that will not allow a rod to enter through the breech, such as a ruger mini.. Con: If your patch wants to get jammed as it enters the bore, its hard to back out. Thanks man! How do you feel about the OTIS Ripcord vs the Boresnake given the price? (Basically a dollar difference on Amazon). The Ripcord is advertised as a non-washable disposable bore cleaner where as the Boresnake is sold as re-usable, and machine washable. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 10:14:06 PM EDT
[#25]
For your standard AR-15 barrel to maintain standard 1/2" at 100yd groups, no. That does not mean take your brand new barrel out and go full auto with crap milspec ammo. More importantly is the cleaning. Always use a bore guide with a coated rod. Not doing that will destroy your bore beyond repair faster than anything and ruin accuracy. I've "broken in barrels" and have noticed no change in accuracy. I did however when I was younger just slam a aluminum rod up and down in my chamber while cleaning and didn't learn my lesson until a gun smith sat me down and showed me what I had done with a bore cam. Not a lesson I needed to learn twice. Boresnakes are good for cleaning film and for range/field cleaning. They will not clean your bore or asymmetrical fowling.
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Posted: 3/18/2015 10:45:00 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Stainless steel barrels should be. Right. There are a few SS barrel makers that strongly recommend breaking them in. Does it really need to be done for the average shooter? I doubt it. |
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Posted: 3/20/2015 9:52:55 AM EDT
[#27]
Quoted:
So I have been on here for a while, asking questions in preparation for the day I get my first gun. Well I just finished building the first AR15 I have ever built (or any firearm for that matter). I still got a bunch of questions but for right now in this sub-forum just the one; When I or a family member takes the rifle to the range for the first time, does the barrel need to be "broken in"? This is the complete upper I bought: BCM SS410 16" Mid Length URG w/BCM KMR, 1/8 Twist and I believe specifically this is the barrel: BCM SS410 16" Barrel So your thoughts? Is breaking-in a barrel a myth or pointless (just clean after i'm done shooting it and put it away) or you have a break-in method? Thanks guys/gals! M3rc, If it were me I'd just give it a good cleaning with a bore solvent and fire a minimum amount of rounds through it ad increase it by every 40 rounds until you feel it's been broken in. Personally I don't prefer SS barrels myself as standard carbon steel is fine with me along with it being chrome bored. Impala |
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Posted: 3/25/2015 12:57:11 PM EDT
[#28]
In my experience break-in describes the period of time where the bore copper fouls easily. I recently broke in a 24" krieger barrel in 3 cleanings at 1,3 and 20 shots. I use a copper evident solvent like boretech eliminator. First shot I've never seen so much copper, third a little, twentieth none. After this period I switch to a carbon solvent for cleanings as I do not watch to disturb copper build up. Several hundred rounds later still no copper fouling. For heavy cleaning after breaking I'll use bore paste to smooth out copper but not remove it.
Break-in on my 20" Wilson barrel took a lot longer. |
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Posted: 3/25/2015 12:58:32 PM EDT
[#29]
On another note my bushmaster carbine had zero breakin and has no Copper issues
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Posted: 5/3/2015 10:17:55 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's a myth This 
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Posted: 5/15/2015 9:26:58 AM EDT
[#31]
A very controversial subject, to say the least. Taking into account the voodoo factor, and the common sense advice from barrel makers, here is my practice:
New barrels are thoroughly cleaned before first use, with JB Paste applied to the leade, that portion of the rifling immediately forward of the throat, where the lands taper up to full height. Except for the very best, hand lapped, match barrels, chamber reamers typically leave some tool marks on the leade. 100 or so short strokes, with JB applied to a tight patch, at just that short section of the bore, will take off the roughest edges of those tool marks. At least that's my belief, since I don't own a borescope. Once firing begins, I keep round counts to a minimum, with emphasis on load validation and scope sighting, and I remove copper fouling after each range session. The belief is, surface pores in new barrels should be filled with carbon fouling, not copper. Taking care to diligently remove all copper after these first few range sessions, allows this "carbonizing" to settle in and thereafter reduce the ability of copper to stick to the bore's surface. Again, I take this on faith from the barrel makers, especially AR Performance, but it makes perfect sense to me. - CW |
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Posted: 5/15/2015 9:16:02 PM EDT
[#32]
It's not the barrel, or rifling that needs broken in. The throat of the chamber needs broken in. Copper collects there on a new chamber until the edge is knocked down by rounds being fired.
After so many rounds the edge of the throat will smooth out, and no longer collect copper. At which point the chamber is considered broken in. |
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Posted: 5/16/2015 3:14:07 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For your standard AR-15 barrel to maintain standard 1/2" at 100yd groups, no. That does not mean take your brand new barrel out and go full auto with crap milspec ammo. More importantly is the cleaning. Always use a bore guide with a coated rod. Not doing that will destroy your bore beyond repair faster than anything and ruin accuracy. I've "broken in barrels" and have noticed no change in accuracy. I did however when I was younger just slam a aluminum rod up and down in my chamber while cleaning and didn't learn my lesson until a gun smith sat me down and showed me what I had done with a bore cam. Not a lesson I needed to learn twice. Boresnakes are good for cleaning film and for range/field cleaning. They will not clean your bore or asymmetrical fowling. So not using a bore guide is worse than pressurized copper jacketed ammo zinging through the bore at around 3K FPS?? That's news to me
No, a cleaning rod will not damage your bore (assuming you're not talking about a babied precision rifle). Brushes: brass, bronze, nylon, whatever. Use what you want. Won't make a difference. Bore guide?... not concerned with that. Seriously... people put WAY too much thought into cleaning a firearm. Take a second to think about the kind of pressures, friction, and abuse a barrel takes. Now think about your cleaning brushes, rod, etc. Kind of futile to compare the two. Again, for a babied precision rifle... any and all efforts. For anything else... shoot the dang thing, and clean however you like. Won't make a difference. |
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Posted: 5/16/2015 8:40:07 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yup..waste of time that's never shown appreciable results in any barrel I've tried it in... Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I don't believe any gun barrel needs breaking in. Yup..waste of time that's never shown appreciable results in any barrel I've tried it in... How would you know? Every barrel is unique, and you can't perform both tests on the same barrel. What's needed is a statistically valid double-blind study testing match barrels across manufacturer and lot number populations, testing whether break-in improves accuracy and/or precision. I've never seen one of those, which means those who advocate break-in are guessing, and those who don't advocate it are guessing as well. Given the lack of empirical data, I choose to listen to the people who actually make the match barrels, even if their advice is anecdotal, or based on deductive reasoning brought about by years of actually manufacturing the things. As stated above, a standard M4 barrel will not benefit from it, since the accuracy requirements are so much less - especially with a chrome-lined barrel. |
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Posted: 5/16/2015 8:40:42 AM EDT
[#35]
Double-Tap
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Posted: 5/16/2015 8:41:51 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's not the barrel, or rifling that needs broken in. The throat of the chamber needs broken in. Copper collects there on a new chamber until the edge is knocked down by rounds being fired. After so many rounds the edge of the throat will smooth out, and no longer collect copper. At which point the chamber is considered broken in. Properly used, the term throat refers to the straight section immediately in front of the cartridge case neck and behind the initial, tapered portion of the rifling lands. Traditionally, this was known as the "ball seat", where the protruding portion of the bullet sits before the hammer drops. In modern sporting arms, the throat is usually a snug fit to the bullet diameter, but large enough to ensure no binding or stripping of jacket material. The leade, however, is where the bullet starts to be engraved by the rifling lands, a abrubt and violent encounter. When the chamber is originally cut with a reamer, this tapered section of the rifling ends up with some circular tool marks, perpendicular to the axis of the bore. These tool marks are believed to initiate the copper fouling that shooters find throughout the length of their barrels. They can either be smoothed out by lapping that short section with JP paste (my practice with new barrels), or by firing enough bullets to wear the tool marks down. So called "fire lapping" with abrasive bullets is a crude way of accomplishing the same thing in short order. Taking care of this step on new, non-match-grade barrels, supposedly reduces the amount of copper fouling one has to deal with. - CW http://bisonballistics.com/articles/an-introduction-to-rifle-chambers  " />
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Posted: 5/17/2015 10:21:58 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
xtreme: See the link and drawing below for a short discussion of rifle chambers and the correct nomenclature for its various parts. By "edge of the throat", I presume you are referring to the section labeled the leade in this drawing. Properly used, the term throat refers to the straight section immediately in front of the cartridge case neck and behind the initial, tapered portion of the rifling lands. Traditionally, this was known as the "ball seat", where the protruding portion of the bullet sits before the hammer drops. In modern sporting arms, the throat is usually a snug fit to the bullet diameter, but large enough to ensure no binding or stripping of jacket material. The leade, however, is where the bullet starts to be engraved by the rifling lands, a abrubt and violent encounter. When the chamber is originally cut with a reamer, this tapered section of the rifling ends up with some circular tool marks, perpendicular to the axis of the bore. These tool marks are believed to initiate the copper fouling that shooters find throughout the length of their barrels. They can either be smoothed out by lapping that short section with JP paste (my practice with new barrels), or by firing enough bullets to wear the tool marks down. So called "fire lapping" with abrasive bullets is a crude way of accomplishing the same thing in short order. Taking care of this step on new, non-match-grade barrels, supposedly reduces the amount of copper fouling one has to deal with. - CW http://bisonballistics.com/articles/an-introduction-to-rifle-chambers http://<a href=http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af242/chasw44/chamber-diagram2x_zpslkimftq1.png</a>" /> Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
It's not the barrel, or rifling that needs broken in. The throat of the chamber needs broken in. Copper collects there on a new chamber until the edge is knocked down by rounds being fired. After so many rounds the edge of the throat will smooth out, and no longer collect copper. At which point the chamber is considered broken in. Properly used, the term throat refers to the straight section immediately in front of the cartridge case neck and behind the initial, tapered portion of the rifling lands. Traditionally, this was known as the "ball seat", where the protruding portion of the bullet sits before the hammer drops. In modern sporting arms, the throat is usually a snug fit to the bullet diameter, but large enough to ensure no binding or stripping of jacket material. The leade, however, is where the bullet starts to be engraved by the rifling lands, a abrubt and violent encounter. When the chamber is originally cut with a reamer, this tapered section of the rifling ends up with some circular tool marks, perpendicular to the axis of the bore. These tool marks are believed to initiate the copper fouling that shooters find throughout the length of their barrels. They can either be smoothed out by lapping that short section with JP paste (my practice with new barrels), or by firing enough bullets to wear the tool marks down. So called "fire lapping" with abrasive bullets is a crude way of accomplishing the same thing in short order. Taking care of this step on new, non-match-grade barrels, supposedly reduces the amount of copper fouling one has to deal with. - CW http://bisonballistics.com/articles/an-introduction-to-rifle-chambers http://<a href=http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af242/chasw44/chamber-diagram2x_zpslkimftq1.png</a>" /> Yeah, hey, thanks for the long reply. But you're wrong, and I don't need a lesson in the nomenclature of the various parts of a rifle chamber. I'm speaking specifically about the roughness of the throat itself. When a barrel is chambered there are reamer marks that are left in the throat that are across the lands ie; across the direction of bullet travel... Krieger:
When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat. If this copper is allowed to stay in the bore, and subsequent bullets and deposits are fired over it, copper which adheres well to itself, will build up quickly and may be difficult to remove later. So when we break in a barrel, our goal is to get the throat “polished without allowing copper to build up in the bore. This is the reasoning for the fire-one-shot-and-clean procedure. |
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Posted: 5/17/2015 1:00:11 PM EDT
[#38]
Krieger wrote:
"When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat. ...snip..." xtreme: I believe all three of us are on the same page, copper fouling begins when the bullet hits the tapered portion of the lands. The objective with a new barrel is to smooth over any tool marks left there by the reamer. Our only difference is, I call that section the leade, in keeping with traditional practice, to distinguish it from the parallel section just to the rear, while you and Krieger consider the tapered lands to be part of the throat. No big deal either way. - CW |
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Posted: 5/17/2015 2:40:07 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Krieger wrote: "When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat. ...snip..." xtreme: I believe all three of us are on the same page, copper fouling begins when the bullet hits the tapered portion of the lands. The objective with a new barrel is to smooth over any tool marks left there by the reamer. Our only difference is, I call that section the leade, in keeping with traditional practice, to distinguish it from the parallel section just to the rear, while you and Krieger consider the tapered lands to be part of the throat. No big deal either way. - CW Right on. We understand each other. Tomato's, Tomoto's. No big deal. |
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