Just a quick question, I was going to switch over my three ARs to Froglube, and was wondering if you guys had removed the CLP first, or just used the froglube on top of the CLP, or waited until you got to te range and needed to clean it again. I don't think i will be making it to the range with these rifles or a month or two due to work, but i would like to get this stuff on their ASAP

If I was in your position I'd likely just try one rifle with that stuff first.  And after a good cleaning.  Good Luck


And remember the old saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it !"

Right.  why are you intent on going from CLP to Ribbit lube?

I have never read anything but good stuff about Breakfree CLP.  I cant say the same about froglube.

I use Breakfree CLP in all my weapons for general cleaning and then Shooters Choice FP-10 for just lubrication.  If I have a tough carbon buildup I use some Hoppe's #9 bore solvent.

OP I just recently changed over to FrogLube from Breakfree and don't regret anything other than not switching sooner.  I have it on a few pistols and AR's, no problems what so ever just follow the directions because a little goes a long way.  I personally used 91% isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle, put on some gloves, eye pro and soaked down my weapons wiping off the old CLP.  Once thoroughly dry I applied the FrogLube CLP according to the directions.  FWIW I personally would remove all current CLP from the weapon(s) you intend on using the FrogLube on.  Report back once you have had a chance to run some of your guns with the FL.  I hope this helps.

I use breakfree CLP, but you dont want to mix oils. Remover the breakfree before applying toad lube

Remove CLP with non chlorinated brake cleaner first.

I got some as a gift at the local dealer the other day. I normally stick with CLP but figured i would give the frog lube a shot. I think i will clean off one rifle and lube it up and try it first chance i get.

Why change?  Froglube is functionally Chapstick...literally, that's what was used in its place.  It sucks as a lube.

Same product, but blue instead of green.  Track Lube Plus

The Frog Lube rep at the 2012 Shot Show said they took a product that was already in the market place (Track Lube Plus) and reformulated it (dyed it green, like a frog).

I've used CLP. Works great, nothing wrong with it. Everything I own has toad paste; works great, haven't had any issue with it, clean up is a breeze, and I like the smell

On my mosin 91/30 one range day I put 120 rounds of surplus corrosive ammo through it, didn't clean it for a week to see what would happen, there was some brownish grime in the barrel, but no rust in my gun, everything wiped away, bore is shiny and spotless still. I'm in CA though so not much humidity here, but I'm quite happy with it.

I never understood CLP, does it make sense to but a cleaner in with a lubricant? Many don't know that BreakFREE also makes just a LP, it is CLP without the cleaner. For years I cleaned with Hoppes 9 and lubed with LP. Now I switched everything over to Mil Comm products and haven't looked back. When switching lubricant clean with a high concentration of Alcohol, most pharmacies have 98% on the shelf. Remove all traces of old lubricant and apply new. Have fun!!!!  

I had a bad experience with Froglube at first, but since the formula was changed I gave it another shot, and have been using it for a few months now with no problems.

There is definitely a noticeable difference from the old to newer formula.  The older formula would go rancid and gummy if it sat for a while. I lubed one of my AR's with it and purposely left it in my cabinet for 2 months to see if this would happen again and it did not happen, like it did before with the older formula.

I also noticed that the more you wipe away the excess the better your bolt glides in the upper.

I also tried Fireclean for a while and I liked it, but it was a little too runny. I think with that one you may need to wipe away the excess also.

Anyway that's my story and I'm sticking to it. I think sometimes people get way too hung up and emotional about what lubes someone may be using. As for me, I use what works and don't give a fuck about what anybody else thinks.

I actually cleaned all of the old lube off with simple green household cleaner, as it is an excellent degreaser. I would not normally put a water based product on my gun parts, but i used the hot application method where you heat up all of the parts with a hair dryer (until they are too hot to hold)  before you paint on the frog lube. Then I let the parts completely cool and wiped away excess. Worked like a charm.

Yeah I was going to heat up the parts. Did you just heat up the moving parts?

FWIW I disassemble and heat up the entire BCG, apply FL paste, let cool a few minutes, wipe off excess and the reassemble.  I also ensure I heat up the upper and barrel.  Where I live in SC this is usually easy by going outside for about 20 minutes but if it weren't and in the winter months I  just plan on using my wife unit's hairdryer as I have done before recently. I use the paste for everything except my barrel interior, that I use FL liquid on a patch.  I am on the fence on which I prefer paste or liquid.  Edited to add content.

98% Alcohol, no need to heat anything up with a blow dryer, stove, heat gun or whatever. Sometimes this forum just makes me laugh, lol!!!!!!  

I tried it out.  Pros: Smells minty. Cons: One of my AKs that had the Frog Lube treatment froze after being outside in 15 Degree weather overnight, it congealed and wasn't lubricating but was more like cosmoline.  I might use what I have left over for weapons I intend to store long term

Sorry

For my own knowledge did you use paste or liquid?

Happy to see this post, nice to know others do the same using SG.

I clean all my GLOCKS with SIMPLE GREEN. Actually, I tear down each pistol completely, spray it with SG, Rinse with hot water, wipe off any remaining water and then cover with a coat of break free and wipe.....I have done this for over a decade.

Now I have an AR with melonite finish ( similar to TENIFER finish I Hope) all over - I hope.

I hope I can clean a field stripped AR, Bolt group, etc in similar fashion....

No, simple green eats aluminum.

Yeah, I don't mean to doubt anything I hear on the Internet but here is just one of the hits I found when I goggled this bit of news to me about SIMPLE GREEN & ALUMINUM .
And an excerpt from the SIMPLE GREEN FAQs as follows:

Aluminum:
Is it safe to use Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner on aluminum?
When used with caution and according to the instructions, Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner has been safely and successfully used to clean aluminum. Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner, Crystal Simple Green Industrial Cleaner & Degreaser, and Simple Green Pressure Washer Concentrates have been used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. However, caution and common sense must be used: aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green product residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.
Simple Green has also developed break-through water based cleaners that are safe for use on metals, plastics, rubber and high tech alloys. Extreme Simple Green Aircraft & Precision Cleaner, Pro Series Simple Green Automotive Cleaner, and Simple Green Pro HD are available on both the industrial and retail markets, respectively. These products were initially developed for the aircraft industry and extensive testing shows that they are safe and effective on a variety of metals and other sensitive surfaces even in the most extreme circumstances.

Simple Green Stainless Steel One Step Cleaner & Polish is another option for cleaning polished aluminum. This product is designed for light duty metal cleaning and polishing.

My apologies for the delayed response, been on vacation.  Anyways, when I used Frog Lube, I used the spray/liquid to clean and lube with the paste.  It was the paste that froze on me.    

Just thought I would give an update as I have been using FL all summer to test it out once again, and I noticed some hard build up on the bolt that I never seen before. Not at the rear of the bolt where you always get carbon build up. This didn't even look or feel like carbon build up. It was actually tough to get off, and I couldn't just "wipe it off" like I have done in the past. I had to use the brush to scrub it, and scrape it off. It was pretty hard, and greenish in color.
Done with FL today, and going back to Fireclean. This has never happened with Fireclean or any other lube I have used in the past.

I could see this freezing up in below normal temps, and causing trouble.

And yes I have been following the directions correctly per FL.

This has been my experience and I will not argue with anyone who wants to call me out on it for whatever reason. I am not condemning froglube nor am I telling anyone that they should stop their use of it. This has been my own personal experience and I just thought I would share it here.