Does anyone you Ballistol to lube your AR? I heard this is really good.

I never used it to the exclusion of everything else in my AR, but I have used it for a good many years on all my other guns.

Ballistol is good shit, in my opinion.

Other than a little bit of grease here and there it's all I use.

I've been using Ballistol for years, too.  I wouldn't leave it on a gun for more than 4 to 6 months, though.  Why?  Because it can (and does) get, 'gummy'.

Ive been using Ballistol every since WTC started marketing it here.Have Mausers and Mosin Nagants that have had a film of Ballistol on them for over 5 years in storage with annual PM.Never seen Ballistol gum up.
Probably what is thought to be gummy is the fact that once the alcohols evaporate off, the oil component returns to a vaseline like consistency,that is if its applied heavy enough to allowed pooling.

If applied and and the alcohol is allowed to evaporate before use, it works fine,if not, from my experience it flashes off too quickly and smokes alot during firing.I'd only buy the liquid version as well.
I primarily use the Ballistol on my bolt guns,milsurps and blackpowder guns and it works wonderfully.
That said I prefer one of the modern synthetic lubes with higher flash points for the AR.

Which lube do you use for your AR?

Currently I use and prefer Weapon Shield,but also have and will use Break Free CLP and SLIP2000 Gun Lube.All are excellent products IMHO,so just pick one as you can't go wrong.

 
 

I like it.  I use it on my blackpowder Sharps and it works well.  Never used it on an AR, though.

Tom

I like Ballistol for cleaning. Just throw you parts in a plastic zip lock bag and let soak overnight. The next day its all good.

Also good for blackpowder and after shooting corrosive ammo. Anyone who says CLP is a do-it-all is wrong.

That pretty extreme IMHO. I'd just spray, let it sit for a minute or two and drop it in. Modern Firearms are designed to be able to be dirty for a while.

I don't generally use it for lube, but use it anytime I fire corrosive-primed ammo or black powder; dilute it with water(should have the proportions on the can) and it cleans those residues up wonderfully.

No, I've not tried black in an AR, was speaking in general.

Ballistol,


It's the scent that keeps me coming back for more....



It does work well, been using it since the 90's.

I use Ballistol as a cleaner on my pistols, but not on my AR.

I REALLY like MPro-7 LPX as AR lube, and I use MPro-7 cleaner as it is non-toxic as well.

Both Ballistol and Mpro-7 are effective and non-toxic, but imo, LPX is a better lube.  It stays put, and stays WET (read I see no need for a grease) I use it on my P226 rails now as well.

Take a look at Lubriplate SFL greases and oils if you are really interested in non-toxic.  They are food grade rated and cheap.  I have used them, but like LPX better now.

This. I love the stuff and it works great although I am currently trying to find a replacement because of the smell. smells like old sweaty feet and gives me a headache.

Cant complain regarding performance though

Just started using Ballistol.  Not sure if I went overboard with lubing my AR with it or not, but the first several shots resulted in a nice puff of smoke from the ejection port.  Probably went a tad overboard with the new (to me) lube.

It's the only cleaner/lube I use on my firearms.



 

Lol
We called it "Wet Dog" because of the smell when I worked on Ft Dix back in the late 90's.

It is an OK general CLP.  

IMO where it really shines is cleaning painted finish (Bulgarian) firearms after shooting corrosive ammo and shooting dirty black powder guns.  I think it is the only CLP that mixes with water.   I do not use it on my ARs because I think there are better chemicals, however if I needed to clean an AR I and that was all I had laying around I would not think twice about using it.  I also use it for a lot of non-gun related stuff and think it is categorically superior to WD-40.

I've been using ONLY ballistol on my hand guns for years for both cleaning and lubing. Love the stuff. I recently moved into the AR world and started off using ballistol just like I do on my handguns and as others have mentioned I found the flash point is way too low for the AR platform. In most places it worked just fine, but the bolt and bolt tail especially had carbon burnt on it that was a serious PITA to get off. The ballistol just couldn't withstand the temps in there. Also as others have mentioned it doesn't get "gummy," it just thickens after the alcohol evaporates but run your finger on it and you'll see it's still good to go.

I actually just finished completely stripping a couple AR's and my new CZ P-01 and applying the initial coat of frog lube to everything. We'll see how that stuff works out but from everything I've read I expect it to do great! If so my other guns will get the same treatment!

I used Ballistol to lube my AR for a good while until I jumped on Slip2k, but when I was using Ballistol I had great results.









 

I use MPRO7 products for years.  After watching the Vicker's video, I decided to give Ballistol a try.  I really like it.  For the price, I think it's a good value.  I've used the spray to apply it to all my HK's and KAC's and I've never noticed any gumming up.

I'm right with you, but I've split the difference.

I continue to use Ballistol on all (two...) of my pistols.  And I use MPro7 on my rifles.

MPro7 cleaner is just too aggressive on the pistols (recoil spring on my SIG 226 for example, to stripped the orange paint).
MPro7 LPX oil, I do use where I want oil not grease on pistols though.

And I'm pleased with the MSDS and non-toxic of both Ballistol and MPro7.  I don't need a horn growing out of my forehead (now just leave that one alone, okay? you know what I mean.  HA.).

I use it. I love it.

I seem to remember back in the day the only source for Ballistol was when you purchased an HK rifle. I'm pretty sure HK recommended it as their choice of lube.





Is that your recollection?



 

In the manual for my UMP 45, H&K specifically recommends Ballistol.

Prior to the UMP, I was using it on all my other firearms. From 1911 handguns, to sig, glock, My ARs and my AK. Safe on all finishes I have tried, wood, plastic, etc. I do abhor the smell, but the results can't be denied. I don't generally use it as a cleaner, but as a lube. My favorite trait is that is stays on the gun due to it's thicker nature. Just can't bring myself to use grease, makes me feel like my gun is dirty.

Use it, love it. I like that it is 1 product for cleaning & lubrication, so I don't have to worry about residual cleaning fluid trying to act as a lube. Plus no odor, can use it inside and wife doesn't even know.

I use it for cleaning on all guns, and lubrication on ones that don't need much like Glocks.  Honestly for modern polymers all you need is Ballistol all in one.

On the ARs for example I still use it to clean, but I do add another oil after for extra lube.

Ballistol has worked wonders for clean and lube of my M&P 15-22.
I had previously used Rem oil as it's what I had.
Rifle bolt would get sticky after a couple hundred rounds. Started using ballistol again, after finding it on amazon, and the rifle shoots flawless for a brick or more.

I started using it when I first started cowboy action shooting, years ago.  I still use it now.  I find that it works well and is one of the few things you can use in the house and not get run out of the house by the smell.

I too have had good luck with mPro-7 cleaner and lube on my handguns. No AR to test on yet, but that's in the works.

I only have a few years of experience with Ballistol, and only used it on pistols, but I always found it extremely messy to use, and headache-inducing as well. Cleaned/lubed like a champ though. I now use Eez-ox, leaves more of a dry film than a greasy mess. Remains to be seen how the AR runs with it.

[/shillpost]

Ballistol USA, 1 Cypress Knee Trail, Kitty Hawk, NC 27949
If you could only get one gun cleaning/preserving product, this would be it. Adopted by the German Imperial Army in 1905 after a search for a product that would clean and protect firearms, preserve leather goods, treat wooden stocks and disinfect wounds. I have personally used it for all these things and more with complete satisfaction.

Ballistol container found after 80 years storage still had all its properties and had only darkened slightly.Test firearms treated with Ballistol and locked in a trunk for 25 years were perfectly preserved when the trunk was opened. Firearms have been found in attics in Europe that had been treated with Ballistol more than 100 years ago and were still in fine condition."Neo-Ballistol" is widely used for both verterinary and human medicine in Europe.

I have a complete file on this product and it makes interesting reading. This is NOT snake oil. It DOES smell like sweaty gym socks. It DOES give me a mild headache if used without adequate ventilation. I still use it with complete satisfaction and accept its few side effects with no complaint. It is also great for black powder firearms.

I don't own stock in the company. BALLISTOL--ballistic oil.Good Stuff.

People complain about the smell and the fumes, but I really kinda like it.
I had my girlfriend out in the shop with me when I was cleaning guns once, and after a few minutes of being in there with no ventilation she ran out saying she couldn't breath.
It never bothered me.
The one thing I kinda don't like about it is how it thickens after you apply it.
Seems like it would be better for preserving than lubrication.

How is it much better than Hoppes #9? It's mostly just the same mineral oil, but instead of being as pure as Hoppes, it has a fatty acid in it as well. Also a little alcohol. You can download the SDS (replaces the MSDS to meet the newer GHS standards) here, on their site, http://www.ballistol.com/media/downloads/ where it states that 60-100% of the liquid and 40-70% of the aerosol is white mineral oil.

What are the ingredients of Hoppes #9?   or rather what makes it more pure?

(not being a smart ass - just trying to learn)


.

It's almost nothing but mineral oil. Ballistic has the fatty acid and alcohol.
I can see the alcohol acting as a silent, and perhaps the fatty acids act like a soap? That would explain why it mixes with water, and is so good with corrosive ammo. It's good at washing the salts away. Would also help with general cleaning.
I wouldn't use it regularly on wood though,  just infrequently. And never on leather. Oils are actually bad for most leather, especially when used to often and too much.  

According to a Technical Data Sheet I have from WTC/Ballistol USA dated 01/01 Ballistol oil contains:
medicinal grade mineral oil
alkaline salts of oleic acid
several alcohols
Benzyl Acetate
oil from vegetal seeds

The main differences I see in Ballistol and Hoppe's No.9 Oil is the Ballistol is:
A mild copper solvent similar to Hoppe's No.9 Nitro solvent in that regard.
Once the alcohol evaporates off the oil forms a light vaseline like film that is reactive to mild sources of heat and friction and returns to liquid.
Ballistol works as a CLP....maybe even could be called the very first CLP in fact.

As a side note as an outdoorsman,insects seem to avoid Ballistol at all costs.Even ticks drop right off.From what Ive read the oleic acid is the cause as it smells of death/danger( pheromone)to some insects.

ETA
Also was advised that the essential oils used in the mix also works as a corrosion inhibitor as they bind oxygen.Although short lived as the oil is consumed(as with most corrosion inhibitors) over time in the process, but an added feature that a basic mineral oil does not offer.

I've used Ballistol for years.  It has served my family well for three going on four generations.  

To clean, I spray it on and let it set for about 10 minutes, then I wipe every thing down.  I repeat if required, then I give it one last spray and let it set for about 30 minutes, then wipe off the excess.  Works for me.  I ask my friends who spent time in the sand-box about them running their AR's wet or dry.  They say some run'em wet and some run'em dry so go figure.  Me, I like mine to run more on the dry side.  I use it on just about every item I own, but the Kitchen Pot/Pans and the Supper Dishes.  :>)

I love using it to clean up corrosive ammo.

Back when I was running surplus 5.45, I'd run water over the gun, then put a 1:8 ratio of ballistol:water in a spray bottle and hose it down before I left the range.  Broke down the carbon and washed away the salts.....and left a nice coating to protect the metal on afterwards.

I use it.  Blow off the excess with 120psi compressed air.  Then let the gun part set overnight and wipe off any drip places.

I've read that the use of synthetic diesel motor oil on key parts with a lot of heat is effective but haven't tried it yet.  Makes sense though.  High heat in engine parts.

This is probably a stupid question but I have a question regarding the use of Ballistol and/or Breakfree CLP. I recently purchased my first AR and am unsure about the lubricating process. Can I use strictly Ballistol or Breakfree as a cleaner and a lubricant (I have some of both)? How does that work? Should I clean everything and then spray all the moving parts with a liberal coat of Ballistol? Is that all the lubrication I should need? Sorry if this is remedial stuff, I have been using Breakfree to clean and then adding Hoppes lubricant to all points of contact. Thanks in advance for any answers you can give me.

Yes you can use the Ballistol or Break Free CLP as the cleaner and the lubricant,and as a bonus they also work as a corrosion inhibitor.How they work in this way is that both have a solvent component,Ballistol uses alcohol and Break Free uses a petroleum based solvents,that aids it breaking down and lifting the fouling,burned oil residues and dirt etc. so it can be removed.The solvent/alcohol evaporates off after a very short time leaving the oil for lubrication and the inhibitor components for protection.The oils themselves also will help break down and put fouling into suspension for removal in use.All that said,that is one of the major advantages to using a CLP type product as it constantly works to clean and break down the fouling you may miss in cleaning while the weapon is in strorage.So don't be surprised to see fouling on a patch after storage etc..

As far as which to use that will have to be your preference.But you should pick one or the other and do not mix oils,generally.As far as using Hoppe's oil as a lubricant after using Break Free CLP,thats a waste of effort as Break Free CLP uses full synthetic oils  that likely exceed the Hoppes in regards to lubrication and flash point/burn off temp of the oil under high heat.

As far as lubrication point and how much to apply,follow the instruction here:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_7/548967_AR15_LUBE_POINTS.html

That should do all you really need.For storage I like to leave a sheen of oil on all parts.Now if I plan a heavy range day I basically take the BCG out and apply a wet sheen(hosed down) of oil to the carrier,give it a flick to sling off excess and stick it back in the upper and hand cycle the action with the charging handle a few times to spread the oil to the uppers bearing areas.Make sure the bolt face is wiped dry and the bore/chamber is patched dry.

During the range session I will also relube every 200-300 rounds as needed....when the carrier starts looking dry.Basically,unload/clear the weapon,and with the BCG in battery,fully forward,apply lube the top and bottom carrier rail thru the ejection port quickly and work the action a couple times with the charging handle.When I do this I also put a few drops of the oil in the carrier vent holes to help keep the gas rings somewhat lube,but mainly to help keep fouling soft within the carrier and bolt tail.To do this pull the BCG back out of battery with the charging handle approx. .5" and put couple drops of oil in the carrier vents.
As a note,when done firing for the day I repeat the above.This will help wet the parts and start the cleaning process,and depending on how many rounds you have fired is likely all you need to do if you plan to shoot the rifle again in a day or two.