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 misparkz 
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Joined: Dec 2007  MI, USA
 Posts: 28 Feedback: 0% (0) |
Posted: 6/5/2012 9:48:24 PM
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT |
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Gregory_K
Member
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Joined: Feb 2003 PA, USA
Posts: 15774 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/6/2012 7:02:32 AM
Black = Carbon.
Blue/Green = Copper. The copper removes will attack your bronze brushes, loops, and jags giving you a false positive. No more blue/green color = no more copper. |
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lew
Proud US A-hole
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Joined: Sep 2005 MI, USA
Posts: 4346 Feedback: 100% (5) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/6/2012 9:18:15 AM
Originally Posted By Gregory_K:
Black = Carbon. Blue/Green = Copper. The copper removes will attack your bronze brushes, loops, and jags giving you a false positive. No more blue/green color = no more copper. That's it right there. |
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Posted: 6/6/2012 2:57:08 PM
Thanks!
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leatherface_y2k
you can't have freedom for free
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Joined: Jan 2012 TX, USA
Posts: 243 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/7/2012 12:51:45 AM
And once those patches show no blue / green then run a couple patches soaked in Hoppes, or your standard solvent of choice, through. The dry patches, then lube. Don't want to let that copper solvent stay in the bore once it's done it's job.
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Posted: 7/19/2012 2:04:47 PM
We use KG12 copper remover in our custom rifle shop. It is the only product that can get severe copper fouling out of out 50 BMG guns. We had a demo rifle come back that must have had 1,000 rounds of 50 BMG thru it. We plugger the muzzle & soaked the barrel for 3 days to get it clean!! Nothing else would even touch it! Brownells carries it. One thing, is does NOT contain ammonia so the patches do not come out blue. They have black streaks from dry patching. No streaks- you're clean.
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Posted: 7/19/2012 5:34:15 PM
[Last Edit: 7/19/2012 6:16:05 PM by Motor1]
I've used at least 3 different copper solvents all of which contained ammonia and turned blue when dissolving copper. I agree with the others, once the blue is gone switch to Hoppes, brush then swabb out. Then oil.
The copper solvents can clean you barrel to bare metal which makes it very easy to rust. The brushing with Hoppes will clean out any remaining copper solve then you can oil or use what ever your particular preserving requirement may require. |
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wildearp
Get off my lawn!
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Joined: Jun 2003 AZ, USA
  
Posts: 26989 Feedback: 100% (35) Link To This Post |
Posted: 7/19/2012 5:37:39 PM
I use a Jag, patch, and JB bore paste. Some people think it is evil, but google it up, see who uses it, and then make your decision.
I like it because it is fairly quick. |
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Posted: 7/21/2012 11:25:44 PM
Originally Posted By misparkz:
I recently bought some shooters choice copper remover solvent to see if I have any build up in the guns. When all the copper is gone will the solvent stay clear or not? I'm under the assumption that the solvent will also start eating other metals since it says not to let it stay in the bore for over 10 min and always clean afterwards to remove leftover copper remover. I don't see any more blue/green on the patches but if I saturate the bore again with the copper remover, let it sit, and then push a clean patch through the solvent comes out black. I think but not sure... that the black isn't copper being removed but rather the solvent reacting to the bore? Correct? As long as no more blue/green on patches stop with the copper remover? misparkz, Your description is correct. When all the copper is removed the wet patches should come out clean. If the solvent your useing is too aggresive then I'd try Birchwoods Casey's Bore Scrubber. I used this on my Model 1 Sales upper. The groups wereso bad the copper residu took practically all day just to get a handle on it along with allot of barrel scrubbing. Impala |
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Posted: 8/3/2012 3:43:33 AM
Have you tried Wipe Out?
It works even better/faster with their Accelerator I use a couple patches soaked with Accelerator to get the loose gunk/powder out while applying it. Then a second or so shot of Wipe Out in the chamber until it starts to ooze out of the muzzle. The oozing foam will turn blue as it works; some will drip out. Wait 30 minutes (at least) and dry patch. I'd repeat the process the first time you do it, just to be sure it is clean and prove it to yourself. If using it on an AR, it wouldn't hurt to give the gas tube a quick shot of brake cleaner to flush out any crap that migrated or loosened in it and then use an oiled patch. Patch Out is the non-foaming version of Wipe Out and it works well too, but I prefer Wipe Out. |
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