I'm a newbie to the AR-15 world...great instructions from the Maryland link! Thanks for taking the time to do it!! I'm about to perform my virgin stripping now...with that post printed of course!

Originally Posted By pony: Being new also just bought my left handed stag arms ar-15 what tools will i need in the future to do a complete strip down field strip is pretty basic pony

The question is, why would you want to do a total strip on a complete rifle? You don't gain anything on cleaning and maintenance.
If you want to learn what makes it go, there are easier ways.
I'll ask somebody who knows more than me tomorrow on what you'll need for a complete strip.

Originally Posted By pony: i do that with all my firearms to check for problems usually after the 4th or 5th trip to the range i do the basic field strip after shooting

Are these problems that would go undetected by a visual inspection alone?

.

If there is a better way to learn the nuts and bolts of it (no pun intended) what is it?

Join the Marines.

You are looking at armorers level skills: www.booktrail.com/Video_Shooting/AR-15%20Armorer's%20Course.asp

Thanks DF!

Looking forward to your info on my question.

Need to update this link:

Manual cover with a good reason to properly clean weapons: world.guns.ru/assault/m16a1comix.jpg

Here's my method for cleaning and lubricating-


Cleaning-

*CLEAR WEAPON
*Good thorough field strip, including all parts of B/CH/BCG

*Hose down FCG, B/CH/BCG, and inside of upper receiver with carb cleaner
*Scrub all above parts with copper and nylon brushes, pipe cleaner, Qtips
*Scrape all carbon off of firing pin and bolt face using homemade scraper tool (formerly coat hanger) and dental picks
*Hose internal parts off with carb cleaner
*Wipe down all parts with rag
*Wipe interior of mag well with rag

*Stick carb cleaner straw into gas tube at front of upper receiver. Spray liberally
*Spray carb cleaner down barrel from chamber end
*Pull boresnake through barrel 3 or 4 times
*Spray out boresnake with carb cleaner. Let dry

*Hose out star chamber with carb cleaner
*Clean star chamber using chamber brush and GI T handle, dental picks, Q tips, and patches
*Rinse star chamber with carb cleaner

*Wipe down buffer
*Insert piece of rag inbetween first and second layer of buffer spring. Twist buffer spring, working rag all the way down to the other end
*Hose out receiver extension tube with carb cleaner

*Clean any mud off of external surfaces. Wipe weapon down with damp rag
*Clean handguards, beneath heat shields, and exposed barrel
*Clean trigger well with Qtips. Drop down trigger guard and clean exposed areas
*Wipe interior of pistol grip with rag
*On A2 models, clean butt plate, drain hole, and trap door
*Clean sights with Qtips, pipe cleaner, and nylon brush. Flip aperture and ensure both sections are clean
*Clean any rust off of front sight post or flash suppressor. Lightly coat flash suppressor using CLP.

------
Assembling/Lubricating-

*Insert buffer and spring into receiver extension tube
*Install handguards
*Squirt a few drops of CLP down barrel from chamber end
*Run now-dry boresnake through barrel once to disperse lube
*Place plastic muzzle cap over flash suppressor

*Assemble extractor onto bolt.
*Align gas rings 60 degrees apart
*Place 2-3 drops of CLP on body of bolt, smear over bolt body with finger
*Place 1-2 drops of CLP on bolt cam, smear over bolt cam with finger
*Assemble bolt into bolt carrier, insert and twist bolt cam, insert firing pin and firing pin retaining pin, grasp bolt carrier group and snap bolt out
*Place 1 drop of CLP on each side of the bolt carrier, at the bottom front, on the raised rails. Smear with finger over entire rail section
*Place 1 drop of CLP on each side of the bolt carrier, at the top front, on the raised rails next to the gas key. Smear with finger over entire rail section
*Place 2-3 drops of CLP into opening of gas key of BCG

*Insert charging handle into upper receiver
*Insert BCG into charging handle
*Push BCG/CH forward, locking CH
*Reassemble upper and lower receivers

*Perform functions check
*Close ejection port cover




If field conditions do not allow for carb cleaner, then I use liberal amounts of CLP to ensure that contaminated CLP when used as solvent is washed/wiped clean before applying CLP as lubricant. Weapon is wiped dry before final assembly/lubrication.




For the official lube order, check out the Technical Manual for the M16/M4 series rifles. I think there's a digital copy on this site under Information/Manuals&Downloads. My method is based on the TM, with some personal modifications that I've found to be effective. YMMV

excellent post pevrs114

anyone ever used CORROSION X?

Originally Posted By CrossOfStGeorge: Carb cleaner, oven cleaner, brake cleaner etc. all remove oil and carbon well......TOO well. Detent spring tunnels and roll pins will have their protective oils removed, and may not get any when you re-lube your weapon. This will eventually result in rusting, oxidation and failure of parts. I know that your Drill Sergeant/Instructor said it was OK. I know that your armorer said it was OK. I know that your Platoon Sergeant/Leader said it was OK.... ...but it's not. Really.

Could you expound on "protective oils"?

Originally Posted By CrossOfStGeorge: Originally Posted By DoubleFeed: Could you expound on "protective oils"? All solid metals have some degree of oil in them. The steel and aluminum used in M-AR15/16 has quite a bit, more so after a good proper cleaning. If you use a oil/carbon cutter, these oils are drawn out of the metal leaving it vulnerable to corrosion. Yes, your rifle will be clean....TOO clean. The springs in our rifles are, at best, Cadmium plated for weather protection. As we know, Cad plating sucks for that. You need oil to be present on the springs (and in the tunnels too) to repel moisture and its ensuing rust. I've had to pull out too many crumbled rusty springs, and drill out corroded detent tunnels due to "magic" cleaning tricks and chemicals. Not to mention rusty buffer springs.

Can you turn on your IMs?