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Posted: 4/24/2017 10:11:56 PM EDT
Hi. This is my first post. I really screwed this one up. I ended up attaching a muzzle break to my barrel and used red Loctite. Well I realized a bit too late that my timing was off, so I tried to take the break off and it seized half way. Long story short. I ended up using a heat gun, lots of elbow grease, and eventually a MAPP gas torch to get the break off. Of course as you can see below. Half my threads are gone.
So my question is this: Can this be salvaged or is it beyond hope? Ballistic Advantage basically told me that they couldn't do anything for me, but I have heard of shortening the barrel and having it re-threaded. This is a 8.3" 300 BLK Hanson series barrel. Thanks for your advice. 
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Posted: 4/24/2017 10:15:30 PM EDT
[#1]
I vote chop and rethread. But perhaps others have more experience and thus and more valuable opinion than me.
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Posted: 4/24/2017 10:21:51 PM EDT
[#2]
Chop and rethread is going to run you around $75-85. With that barrel profile you would probably be better off just buying a new barrel.
http://grabagun.com/ba-babl300002f-300bo-brl-cmv-8-3-hansn.html |
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Posted: 4/24/2017 10:24:34 PM EDT
[#3]
I'd just clean it up and pit a new FH on it.
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Posted: 4/24/2017 10:24:38 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Chop and rethread is going to run you around $75-85. With that barrel profile you would probably be better off just buying a new barrel. |
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Posted: 4/25/2017 4:52:36 AM EDT
[#5]
Mother of all Bubba's. You ever learn to put down the breaker bar when things aren't unscrewing correctly?
Why would you ever use red locktite to install a flash hider? I would just get a new barrel and never use red locktite to install anything on a firearm. |
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Posted: 4/25/2017 6:22:37 AM EDT
[#6]
First step is to throw red Loctite in the trash can. The next step is not really as important as the first step.
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Posted: 4/25/2017 7:18:59 AM EDT
[#7]
I'd try cleaning it up and seeing if another flash hider would thread on there... with maybe some BLUE loctite.
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Posted: 4/25/2017 7:24:48 AM EDT
[#8]
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Posted: 4/25/2017 7:50:31 AM EDT
[#9]
If it we're mine (and you're not running a suppressor) I would just clean it up a little in front of the good threads and stick a flash hider on it that doesn't need timed, something like an A1 or YHM Phantom. Leave the crush washer out if the remaining threads are too short
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Posted: 4/25/2017 8:08:59 AM EDT
[#10]
That's an easy 10 min job on my lathe. However, like others have said, cut the bad part off, re crown as best as you are able, and there is plenty of thread there for a FH or another brake. You will need to use peel washers to time, don't use crush washers in any event.
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Posted: 4/25/2017 8:32:58 AM EDT
[#11]
That was caused by something other than red loktite and heat.
The fixes have already been given. |
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Posted: 4/25/2017 8:42:15 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That was caused by something other than red loktite and heat. The fixes have already been given. Methinks that there is a little more to the story. Something like a screwed up pin job comes to mind. |
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Posted: 4/25/2017 9:52:07 AM EDT
[#13]
Wow, thanks for all the great advice guys! I originally wanted to use this barrel suppressed, but it seems like chopping and rethreading will make a short barrel a bit too short.
I'll probably just put a flash hider on it and call it a day. Maybe a cheap J-Comp v2? I realize that has to be timed, but I imagine I could use peel washers to effectively utilize what's left of the threads. Any thoughts on that? Also I'm 95% sure that the bore wasn't deformed at the end of the barrel, but let's say that it's ever so slightly deformed. Is this thing going to blow up when I shoot it? There were no barrel pins involved of any kind I just ignorantly thought brute force would overcome the locktite. And yes... I'm throwing that satanic tube of crap in the trash. I'll just live with simple torque thank you very much. Order of events: 1. Unknowingly timed muzzle break slightly improperly with peel washers and took the break off. 2. Put red locktite on the barrel. 3. Put the break on and realized that I screwed up and needed to use a different combination of peel washers. 4. Tried to unsuccessfully take the muzzle break off before the locktite set. It unscrewed about half way and then seized. 5. Unsuccessfully used a heat gun and a breaker bar to try and force the muzzle break off. 6. Successfully used MAPP gass and a pipe wrench to take off the muzzle break while fucking up the barrel. Somewhere between 4 and 6 I believe I ended up using too much force and started to crush the threads. And let's not forget... the final step 7. Publicly (and deservedly) get shamed online for my sins against the AR gods. |
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Posted: 4/25/2017 11:05:19 AM EDT
[#14]
Did you try to screw the flash hider on the barrel with your fingers before adding Loctite? The flash hider should run down til it is seated without a lick of resistance.
Common red Loctite (242, 271) loosens with heat available from a propane torch. The parts should be separated while hot. Now, if you want to use the Devil's material, use a bearing assembly compound on threads. The good news is that you will be able to turn the part about a half turn before the compound cures. The bad news is you're going to need either lots of heat, or cutting tools to disassemble the parts, or both. If someone hands you a green colored Loctite compound, take a good look at its application and then tell the other person to go first with a demonstration. Anyway, those threads were either mismatched or cross threaded. |
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Posted: 4/25/2017 11:20:45 AM EDT
[#15]
There is no way that was caused by red loctite, but I digress: as others have said, either cut off the ruined end and recrown, or just clean up the threads and put on another flash hider. |
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Posted: 4/25/2017 12:15:00 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That was caused by something other than red loktite and heat. The fixes have already been given. ETA, nevermind, I guess this is a pistol or SBR already... in that last picture, your barrel looks fine, what is all that crap on it?? are you sure that isn't just part of the brake that separated? |
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Posted: 4/25/2017 12:19:54 PM EDT
[#17]
Contact Thomas at Paladin Machine Shop Service at tp555(at)windstream.net. Send him pictures and see what he can do, and it won't cost you anywhere near as much as a new barrel will. No web site since he gets all the work he can handle via word of mouth. His skill with a lathe is second to none and his turn around time and prices are super fast and inexpensive.
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Posted: 4/25/2017 12:45:04 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
+1. Methinks that there is a little more to the story. Something like a screwed up pin job comes to mind. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
That was caused by something other than red loktite and heat. The fixes have already been given. Methinks that there is a little more to the story. Something like a screwed up pin job comes to mind. I use red loc-tite, when I need to remove something the first tool I grab is the prapane torch, it doesn't take much heat. |
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Posted: 4/25/2017 12:58:01 PM EDT
[#19]
yea that was pinned.
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Posted: 4/25/2017 1:06:42 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If it we're mine (and you're not running a suppressor) I would just clean it up a little in front of the good threads and stick a flash hider on it that doesn't need timed, something like an A1 or YHM Phantom. Leave the crush washer out if the remaining threads are too short |
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Posted: 4/25/2017 6:49:34 PM EDT
[#21]
Send it to Steve Thompson @ ADCO Firearms. He'll have it cut, rethreaded and returned to you inside 2 weeks. Probably closer to one week.
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Posted: 4/25/2017 9:50:51 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
yea that was pinned. |
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Posted: 4/26/2017 8:27:26 PM EDT
[#23]
GOOD GOD FUBAR!
LOOKS LIKE A PIN IN FIRST PIC. Before supertool manhandled it. Center of threads, front to back @ 90  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/26/2017 9:33:31 PM EDT
[#24]
no way that was loctite. It appears to have been pinned, I see what looks like a sheared pin on it. Red loctite is tough but it is not tougher than barrel steel and a fucking torch. It also looks like fibers in what is left, not stripped threads.
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Posted: 4/26/2017 9:48:30 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
GOOD GOD FUBAR! LOOKS LIKE A PIN IN FIRST PIC. Before supertool manhandled it. Center of threads, front to back @ 90 https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/416992/Screenshot-2017-04-26-19-28-18-196041.JPG No question that was pinned |
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Posted: 4/26/2017 10:04:10 PM EDT
[#26]
Pinned and silver soldered, gold tint and fine silvery debris. Looks like an unsweatted solder joint. No Loctite residue.
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Posted: 5/2/2017 11:41:10 AM EDT
[#27]
Jesus Christ dude....
Looks like you fucked up your barrel extension too. Appears to be from a pipe wrench..... And no fucking way in hell that was only red loctite. Something was cross threaded, or something was put through that muzzle device and into the threads...... Show us a picture of what is left of the muzzle device..... Something something..... anvil and a rubber mallet..... |
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Posted: 5/2/2017 11:49:39 AM EDT
[#28]
I can’t say it could not be salvaged, but I would just replace the barrel.
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Posted: 5/2/2017 12:00:32 PM EDT
[#29]
I have almost 40 years in manufacturing. I'll guarantee you that unless that barrel was made of butter, red loctite had nothing to do with this. But, it's your story OP, you can tell it any way you like.
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Posted: 5/2/2017 12:18:49 PM EDT
[#30]
Nevermind... that's the muzzle device... With a pin sticking out of it..... |
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Posted: 5/2/2017 12:26:09 PM EDT
[#31]
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Posted: 5/2/2017 12:33:16 PM EDT
[#32]
Quoted:
Well I realized a bit too late that my timing was off, so I tried to take the break off and it seized half way. I think I am on to something. You said 'timing' which most of us understood to mean orientation of the muzzle device in relation to the upper. I think you mean that you cross threaded the holy fuck out of the thing and torqued the shit out of it before realizing it and taking it back off. |
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Posted: 5/2/2017 1:02:10 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think I am on to something. You said 'timing' which most of us understood to mean orientation of the muzzle device in relation to the upper. I think you mean that you cross threaded the holy fuck out of the thing and torqued the shit out of it before realizing it and taking it back off. |
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Posted: 5/3/2017 11:34:33 AM EDT
[#34]
in all seriousness,
I can't understand why people do things like this.. if you heat something up and put a wrench on it and it doesn't budge, it's not supposed to be removed using that method. |
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Posted: 5/4/2017 2:17:11 PM EDT
[#35]
WOW... I guess sometimes ya gotta learn the hard way!
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Posted: 5/4/2017 4:50:50 PM EDT
[#36]
No.
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Posted: 5/5/2017 8:35:47 AM EDT
[#37]
I have a question. I can see what everyone is saying about this being pinned etc...I'm just wondering why the OP would have covered up the fact he was attempting a pin job and come up with the red Loctite story. it doesn't seem to make any sense to me. Or are we suggesting he tried to remove a muzzle device that was already pinned and even in that last case...why lie?
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Posted: 5/5/2017 9:29:30 AM EDT
[#38]
I was under the impression that he just THOUGHT it had loctite (or someone told him it did) and he proceeded to muscle it because it never occurred to him that it was pinned.
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Posted: 5/5/2017 9:38:37 AM EDT
[#39]
OP claims he used red loctite on an install, didn't like the timing, tried to remove using heat and pipe wrench.
Fubared it, claims that's the total facts. Yeahhhh. Shit happens. I'd have kept that secret. |
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Posted: 5/5/2017 9:44:53 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wow, thanks for all the great advice guys! I originally wanted to use this barrel suppressed, but it seems like chopping and rethreading will make a short barrel a bit too short. I'll probably just put a flash hider on it and call it a day. Maybe a cheap J-Comp v2? I realize that has to be timed, but I imagine I could use peel washers to effectively utilize what's left of the threads. Any thoughts on that? Also I'm 95% sure that the bore wasn't deformed at the end of the barrel, but let's say that it's ever so slightly deformed. Is this thing going to blow up when I shoot it? There were no barrel pins involved of any kind I just ignorantly thought brute force would overcome the locktite. And yes... I'm throwing that satanic tube of crap in the trash. I'll just live with simple torque thank you very much. Order of events: 1. Unknowingly timed muzzle break slightly improperly with peel washers and took the break off. 2. Put red locktite on the barrel. 3. Put the break on and realized that I screwed up and needed to use a different combination of peel washers. 4. Tried to unsuccessfully take the muzzle break off before the locktite set. It unscrewed about half way and then seized. 5. Unsuccessfully used a heat gun and a breaker bar to try and force the muzzle break off. 6. Successfully used MAPP gass and a pipe wrench to take off the muzzle break while fucking up the barrel. Somewhere between 4 and 6 I believe I ended up using too much force and started to crush the threads. And let's not forget... the final step 7. Publicly (and deservedly) get shamed online for my sins against the AR gods. |
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Posted: 5/5/2017 10:55:58 AM EDT
[#41]
It can be fixed.
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Posted: 5/5/2017 11:04:14 AM EDT
[#42]
wrong thread pitch forced on?
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Posted: 5/5/2017 12:26:45 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
wrong thread pitch forced on? Still pretty sure I see the remnants of a pin though. I have been wrong before. |
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Posted: 5/16/2017 6:01:27 PM EDT
[#44]
Doesn't even look like that big a deal to me.
Hacksaw the offending part off and then hand crown it. If you want a muzzle device, leave the good threads on and use them, if not, chop right behind the good threads. No need to beat the guy up. I mean, unless you areike me and have never screwed up anything you have ever worked on.  
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Posted: 5/16/2017 6:09:58 PM EDT
[#45]
Doesn't even look like that big a deal to me.
Hacksaw the offending part off and then hand crown it. I think Brownells has the hand crown tools. I have one and it works great. If you want a muzzle device, leave the good threads on and use them, if not, chop right behind the good threads. No need to beat the guy up. I mean, unless you are like me and have never screwed up anything you have ever worked on.
ETA: ??? If that is a SBR, you might have to maintain original OAL in your fix. Is that right guys? |
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Posted: 5/16/2017 7:21:48 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd just clean it up and pit a new FH on it. |
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Posted: 5/16/2017 9:48:25 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It can be fixed. PM HIM.. |
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Posted: 5/17/2017 3:00:27 PM EDT
[#48]
Either way, it's a mess.
Pinned/not pinned, cross threaded, loctite fubar? Send it to ADCO and make another project with it. 
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Posted: 5/20/2017 9:30:18 PM EDT
[#49]
Some part of this story is stainless steel and when the heat was applied it galled and locked the two parts in place. The tolerance on the parts of the threads would have to be very tight to start with for this to happen. Galled and seized. When this happens, rarely, I would cut the majority of the fl/comp off on the saw and turn the rest off on the lathe, pick up the threads and re-chase them.
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Posted: 5/20/2017 9:36:30 PM EDT
[#50]
I don't see that happening with red loctite unless you tried to break it free without using heat/fire.
Usually once you heat it up enough it can turn with ease. For muzzle devices I hear rock set is good. I've only used red loctite on my gas block set screws. Removing them was never an issue if you hit each screw with a torch for a bit. |
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