Went the wrong way with the heaver buffer.

Standard ejection should be 4:00 to 5:00 (at least until is may hit the receiver deflector) and 10' to 15' out.


So with the standard buffer, would dare to say that you already had problem with a gas leak at either the gas block to barrel, or even key to top of carrier, and adding the heaver buffer, just compounded the problem isntead.


So hose on the end of the gas tube, some CLP around the gas block to barrel, block to gas tube, pressure the gas tube to around 100PSI with air and check for leaks.  The air will flow out the barrel gas port into the bore, but the gas port will still create enough back pressure to check for leaks.  If you are not getting major air into the barrel bore, then you need to check the alignment of the block passage to the barrel gas port.

ON the B/C, hold the bolt all the way in, CLP around the key base to carrier, and 100lbs of air to check for leaks between the key to carrier.

Pull the Bolt off the carrier, and with carrier with key, dry fit it in to the upper receiver to make sure that the gas tube is indexed with the key. On the bolt, hook a spent case on the extractor and cam the ejector in a few times.   The ejector should be under major spring tension, but is should not bind in the bolt face channel as it being cam'd in and out of the bolt face.


Lastly with the rig back together, pull all the way back on the charging handle, and confirm that both the bolt face stops short of the back of ejection port window by about 1/8" to 1/4", and that the last inch'ish of the  charging handle pull does not become harder then about the pull from half way back.


Simply put, the way to check to see if the rig is over gasses, get it clean and lubed to start with, load only a single round in the mag, charge the round, leave the empty mag in the well, and fire the  round.   The bolt should lock back on the catch (even with slightly over gassed), and the rim of the spent case rim should not be bent to hell.  Also, take a good look at the sides of the spent case, and they should not be scrapped to hell (should be a smooth as before the round was loaded and fired).

Scrapped to hell case, you did not get the chamber brush clean, or the chamber has a lot of reamer chatter to it.

Spent case rim bend to hell, but the case is still smooth, then the rig is over gassed, and may require a heaver buffer to bring the unlock back to normal unlock speeds (so the spent case is not  still too residual  pressure bound to the chamber at extraction).

Dirty chamber will cause the spent cases to more adhere to the chamber walls at extraction/when the spent case is still pressure welded to the chamber wall via the residual pressure in the bore at extraction.

Simply, weak ejection distance (not 10' to 15 out of the ejection port) is either a dirty or rough reamed chamber, a gas leak or blockage in the system, or the buffer too heavy or recoil spring tension too great instead.

As for ejection path, the correct path should be 4:00 to 5:00 at least out of the ejection port (at least until it hits the upper receiver deflector and could be deflected forward because of it).   The reason for this, the buffer has weights in it to cause it to dead blow effect at both the rear and forward of stroke, and it when the bolt is stalled at the rear of stroke that the cases should be pivoting off the bolt face.

So if the rifle is stroking correctly, the face of the bolt when you do a full charging pull is stopping about 1/4" o 1/8" in front of the back edge of ejection port window, then this leaves either the extractor dropping the case rim on the pull from the chamber, or the ejector is binding up in the bolt face channel for it.

On just  the ejector and exactor, start off by removing the extractor and check the outer edges of the grabbing claw, and the ends of  rim releif channel just under the claw for burs.  If burs are found, then use a small jewelers file to remove the, (leave the grabbing edge of the claw sharp).  Now with the extractor cleaned up, reinstall it and use a spent case hooked on the extractor to cam the ejector into the bolt face a few times.   Although the ejector should be under a lot of spring pressure, it should not bind up as it being forced into the bolt face, nor as it allows to ride back out.   If the ejector is binding, then it needs to be removed, the parts cleaned, and chances will need a new extractor roll pin if the old one was bent when it was installed (ejector side groove now aligned with the pins path when it was being driving in place).

Breaking down the red loctite on the gas block screws it a snap.

Old Allen wrench in the set screws heads one at a time, heat/glow the Allen wrench up with torch to transfer head down to set screws until you smell a sweet smell of the loctite breaking down, then change out the allen wrench to a new fresh one to spin the allen bolts out.

Without heat to break down the loctite first, you will just strip the allen channel out of the the set screws.