Start with making sure that you are using the correct solvents to clean and lube the rifle, then with them and a chamber brush in hand, clean and lube the rifle correctly. Hence make sure to use the AR chamber brush with CLP to clean all the assembly/storage grease out of the chamber before the rifle is even fired, then move on with the CLP for the rest of the action to make sure that you have removed the assembly/storage grease from it.  On the actual barrel bore to clean the rifling itself, use something like Sweets solvent cleaner, and not something like Hoppes solvent isntead.  As you have figured out, CLP is being used for most of the cleaning and lubing of the rifle, and since it does have a cleaning agent in it, it does not mix well with Hoppes cleaning solvent, or better yet, the residue that Hoppes leaves behind that ends up becoming a sticky mess instead.


From there, go back and check for flows and leaks out of the gas system parts.   Hence if the gas block passage is not aligned correctly with the barrel gas port, your going to get gas blockage.  Same goes for it the gas tube was not installed correctly in the gas block.  Next comes leaks, which could be from the block to barrel (say you did not loctite the set screws in place and they have come loose), from the block to gas tube, and even key to the carrier: all which can be tested via air pressure.  The block and tube are easy to check, with some CLP around the seams, and then a rubber tube on the end of the gas tube to pressurize it with about 100lbs of air.  On the carrier key, CLP around the base of it, hold the bolt inwards, then 100lbs of air in the front of the key.  If you have leaks at these seams, you going to see the problem quickly.

From there, we move into binding issues, such as the gas tube not aligned with the carrier key (pull the bolt off the carrier and use just the carrier with key in the upper receiver to test the alignment), the key binging in the upper receiver slot, or even the bolt not retracting back correctly.  Hence pull all the way back on the charging handle, and first make sure that the last few inches of the CH pull is not greater in tension that from about the middle of the pull.  Next with the CH all the way back, the face of the bolt should have stopped about 1/8" to 1/4" in front of the back edge of ejection port window.  If the CH becomes harder the last inch of pull, then either the wrong recoils spring in play (it too long and coil biding out), or you have something in the receiver extension that is not allowing the buffer bumper to touch the back void of the tube cleanly.

As for if the face of the bolt comes way too far back, wrong buffer in play for the receiver extension, and if the face of the bolt will not retract back far enough instead, wrong spring, wrong buffer, or again, something in the end of the tube limiting the buffer instead.

Since you are using a carbine buffer, pull the buffer and recoil spring, and messure the tube depth.  It should be 7", and the lenght of the recoil spring should be 10.5".
Note, the buffer and recoil spring have nothing to do with the upper receiver in play.  The buffer and spring lenght are dictated by the depth of the tube, since the first purpose of the buffer is to allow the bolt to come back the correct distance in rig.  B/c travels too far back and the back of the key is going to crash into the lower receiver (at where the tube threads in).  Not far enough back, and the bolt is not able to correctly strip a round out of the mag isntead.

The suppressor causes a lot more back pressure in the barrel bore, which increases the gas port pressure through the gas port (that if the barrel does not have a suppressor on it).  The same happens to a  lesser degree when you are running a flaming pig as a FS as well.