Walk in the park,

Not only does the back of the ejector channel have a weep channel that you can use compressed air to blow it out, most of the time the weep channel does not even need to be used.  

Break out a punch, and use it to drive the ejector deeper into the bolt channel with some mallet love taps and the ejector to spring back up between taps, which will allow the extractor roll pin releif channel burs to break off and allow the extractor with spring to snap out of the channel.

Also, as you have figured out by now, the extractor roll pin needs to be removed, and help to add some CLP into the bolt face channel that way, into the roll pin channel that way, and to just flood the spring section of the ejector through the weep channel as well.

Just look at the video below without clicking on the link, and you can see the extractor weep hole in the side of the bolt, and if you look closely at the hole, can see the end of the extractor spring inside the weep hole as well.


As for once the extractor and spring are out, chase the extractor channel in the bolt face with a drill bit to remove any burs where the roll pin drives through, then chuck the extractor up in a drill to clean any burs from the releif side channel in it.

As for reinstalling the extractor, make sure that you have the side releif channel aligned with the roll pin channel when you drive the Roll pin in place.  Hence most of the time that the extractor is binding up, it due to the extractor side releif channel not aligned with the roll pin channel when the roll pin is being drive in place, which just bends the hell out of the roll pin to cause the problem in the first place.

So the easy way to install the extractor if you don't have a extractor install tool, use the ejector with a spent case to cam the extractor in place and the roll pin just started, used a punch up through the bottom roll pin channel to make sure that the extractor side relief slot is lined up, the drive the roll pin into potion.

Does no one dry fit parts anymore??????

If you ran the over size ejector in, then it will need to be air compressed blow out them.   Flood the channel with CLP, put the bolt into a large plastic bag to catch both the spring and ejector pin as it comes shooting out, and so you don't end up with a face full of CLP when you put about 100lbs of compressed air through the channel via the weep hole with an air compressor gun (rubber tip so you get a good seal) to drive the pin out.


An this time, dry fit the extractor pin into the channel to make sure it's fitting gliding smoothly (read don't jam it into if it will not drop into the channel), and if not, then drill bit to clean the channel of burs, and ejector spun up on a drill chuck with some 400 wet/dry sandpaper to clean up any burs on it as well.

I have seen this a few times while teaching armorer courses.  I have been able to get them out by adding a little Kroil to the ejector plunger and spring, then heat the bolt a little with a propane torch.  The heat should expand the bolt tolerances enough to allow the ejector break free.  Also make sure you do not have the ejector plunger in backwards with relief cut to the front, it needs to be to facing towards the rear of the bolt.  

CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
SLR15 Rifles
TheDefensiveEdge.com
(763) 712-0123