Two part problem.

First, the barrel needs to be pulled, and the breach entry edge of the chamber needs to be slightly raduis more, without enlarging the actual back of chamber isntead.
So the quick way to do this is to just chuck the barrel in a lathe and turn polish just the edge so to every so round is better instead.


Second problem is the extractor needs to be tuned,


Hence as the round is stripped out of the the mag and the back rim of the round starts to climb up the face of the bolt, bottom taper section on the extractor has to angled/smooth enough to allow the round to easily push the extractor open so the round can get under it.

Granted that this extractor is total shite, it at least give us a good starting point if nothing else,


So step one, polish the face of the bolt so as the rim of the round is slipping up the bolt face to seat correctly on it from the mag, there a no burs for the rim to catch on on the way up.  

On the extractor, the bottom edge of the extractor needs to be taper entry beveled so as the rim is slipping up on the bolt face, there is not a sharp edge for the rim to catch on as well.  Hence is not a 45* square edge that is needed as in the above photo, but a taper undercut that will allow the rim of the case to slip under the extractor to allow the rim of the round to push the ejector open as it slips under instead.

If you post a photo of your extractor, I can mark it up and re-post it for the needed work to tune the extractor.

Lastly, on the guide rail for the bolt, and even the bolt channels for the rail, all needs to be polished and and burs removed.  Hence the bolt needs to glide on the rail like it greased glass, and even then sometimes with lower power ammo, you still need to change the hammer spring out with a lighter tension spring so the bolt will move cycle correctly as well.  So again, photo's of the bolt kit so I know what type I'm looking at, and can mark up the photo for the areas that needed to be polished. As for the hammer spring if needed, a stock hammer spring can be tweaked to reduce it tension as well (need to tweak the legs back at the coils, and not at the actual hammer spring legs instead.  Hence if you bend the hammer spring legs instead of them being straight, then end up with the trigger pin walking out instead.

Lastly, take the bore snake you have and throw it away. On a 22lr, the bore will wax to prevent leading that does not need to be cleaned each and every cleaning, so all your doing is removing during cleanings for the most part is just removing the built up powder fouling instead.  This can be cleaned via patches, and as for the bore, just shotgun the upper open, pull the bolt, and the the bore can be cleaned with Nylon brushes, and mops instead.  Hence the more you scrub the bore with anything hard (even a brass brush), the faster you are wearing out the rifling from just cleaning alone instead.  Plus the fact, when you remove the wax from the rifling during a cleaning, the barrel will not start grouping well until it waxes back up from live fire again.