I just did mine a couple of weeks ago on a Ballistic Advantage Wylde barrel. It's a roll pin, not a taper pin. A proper size roll pin punch is your friend; it will keep you from mangling the end up.
Since it's not a taper pin, you really won't need a gas-block taper punch. I started with a roll pin punch just a little bigger than the pin until it was flush, then switched to the correct diameter to finish driving it out.
Mine took a little effort to get out, but I was being careful. Leave the set screws tightened up until you get the pin out. On reinstall, put the pin in first, then the set screws.
And yes, best practice is left to right to remove looking down the barrel like you're boresighting.
Not a huge deal on a roll pin, but the end that got pounded on during the install can still be a bitch if you're trying to drive it through the opposite way as it can be slightly flared.
I like to use an el'-cheapo polymer cutting board from Wal-mart as a work surface. You can find some that have 1" wide shallow grooves on one side that keep your barrel from slipping and sliding around while you're pounding on the pin. Just drill a couple of holes for the pin to drop through and you're good to go. The grooves aren't really deep enough to do as good a job as a bench puck from Brownell's, but it's non-marring and it works.
One thing I would suggest getting are some "holder" punches from Brownell's. They make life so much easier on gas blocks and lower builds.
This set
here has everything you need, including a nifty flat-sided punch that works great for the bolt-catch pin.