A friends new Anderson upper stopped ejecting the brass right after breaking in the barrel.  In speaking with Anderson they suggested to check the gas block which sat under a screw on free float handguard. After getting the tool myself I loosened the jam nut, removed the handguard and found the gas block 1/4 inch forward of the gas block rest on the barrel.  I removed the allen screws and put on blue Loctite on them before reinstalling them after repositioning the gas block.  This took care of the issue.

Now on the third visit to the range we were trying to sight in a red dot cowitnessing the iron sights and it seems the front sight was changing positions.  After a while of fooling with the sights and falling out of zero again I found the handquard was coming loose as the top rail was not aligned with the receivers rail.

I'd like to know if there would be an issue if:

1. Use Blue Loctite on the threads of the handguard, jam nut and barrel nut threads they screw to.

2. What torque spec should I tighten the jam nut to.  (My tool does not have hole to insert torque wrench through).

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Check with the manufacturer for the torque specs.  They may say to use loctite or they may warn against it.  A barrel nut should not come loose if it is properly installed. 1 or 2 drops of loctite on the handguard threads may not be a bad idea but again, check with the manufacturer.

Thanks for the reply.  I did email the mfr and they did get back to me with 45-70ft lbs of torque.  They also didn't have an issue with Loctite which like you and I seemed a logical solution also.  

Great minds think a like.

Now that I found out what the torque spec is the for jam nut.  Is there a way that I can attach a torque wrench to the following jam nut tool that does not have a hole to attach torque wrench .

http://www.amazon.com/FSI-Model-Armorers-Spanner-Handguard/dp/B004Z3H53S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414550965&sr=8-1&keywords=jam+nut+wrench