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Posted: 9/12/2014 8:29:53 AM EDT
[#1]
Are they tapered pins? (I assume so)
How are you securing the upper when you try and drive them out? If there's any movement, the energy will be transferred to the upper rather than the pins. Why did you grind the pin down? I usually take the biggest punch that I have, secure the upper so there is no movement, and give it a good solid hit with your typical framing hammer and they come loose. After that, I go to the appropriate sized punch and tap them the rest of the way out. |
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Posted: 9/12/2014 10:34:47 AM EDT
[#2]
Why did you grind the pins flat? Bushmaster usually are built with 2/0 taper pins that are convex on the head, which are in from right to left, this means that they go out left to right. When teaching armorer courses, the first thing we do is soak the pins and entire front sight base around the barrel with Kroil. Now brace the front sight base on something like a wood block, and then put another block under the back of the back of the barrel by the upper receiver. For taper pins you will need to firmly brace the head of the taper pin with a good hard steel punch, a 3/32 nailset will work, and then firmly hit the punch with a large hammer. Within a few hits the pins should unwedge loose. The taper pins you have may be hardened all the way through, or possibly only surface hardened, so if you have ground off the pin and gotten into soft metal, you might either try a smaller diameter nailset (1/32") and try to get a solid bite into the center of the pin to get it loose, if not then you may have to drill the pins out.
CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" SLR15 Rifles TheDefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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Posted: 9/12/2014 3:31:15 PM EDT
[#3]
"Kroil" is a penetrating solvent that is advertised to have the ability to creep into 1 millionth of an inch crevices. As already mentioned the front sight base must be hard against a plastic or wood backer so the full force of the hammer blow gets absorbed by the pin.
I use a fatter than needed punch in an effort to knock the pin flush with the sight base. Once it has moved a little the rest is pretty easy. Smack the damn thing with authority. Have someone hold the rifle stable if need be. Depending on how flush you've ground it you may have an even harder time getting it started now. You may have formed a lip on the pin with the grinder. Propane is your friend. DON'T GET THE BARREL RED HOT. Just apply heat to the pins directly. |
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Posted: 9/12/2014 8:34:40 PM EDT
[#4]
Maybe you need one of those Brownells front sight base removal / install blocks, there round and orange and work great. Brownells calls it a "Front sight bench block"
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Posted: 9/13/2014 7:06:10 PM EDT
[#5]
Front sight pins can be a real chore. This is a fantastic tool for the job, and better than the Brownell's block:
http://www.xringproducts.com/X_Ring_Products_EEIO.php At the time of posting this, it is not in stock. Otherwise, I hate FSB pin removal. |
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Posted: 9/15/2014 1:40:28 AM EDT
[#6]
They don't have a head. They are taper pins as noted. They come out one way only. Wack the small side.
By grinding off the "head" you may have welded it in there in a way. Grinding can displace metal, you may have displaced the taper pins into the fsb. |
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