Understand that this a two stage trigger, not a single stage, so as you are pulling the trigger back (yes, trigger creep), the trigger is going to get to a point that the disconnector makes contract to the back of the trigger above the back sear, and this addtional increase in tension just before the hammer is released by the front sear is the second stage (increase pull weight) of the trigger.

So on that note, your setting the second stage/disco to make contract with the back hammer sear above the hook just before the hammer is released by the front hook.



So let first adjust the front sear.  

E, With the trigger held back, adjust the front sear so the hammer sear just barely clears the front trigger sear as you are cocking the hammer up and down past it.
G, Uncock the hammer, and now with the trigger untouched, try to cock the hammer back again.  If the angle of the hammer sear will not make correct contact with the angle on the trigger sear to push it out of the way to all the hammer to cock to the front sear, re-adjust the front hook more forward/downward so the hammer can be cocked back to be retained by the front hook.

Now lets adjust the disco rear  sear.

With the hammer cocked on the front sear and your hand in front of the hammer so it does not crash into the front of the receiver.  Start slowly pulling the trigger (yes, you want creep and how the two stage trigger works), and watch for the rear disco to make contact just above the rear hammer hook.  Now you want to adjust the disco (back trigger hook) so just before the hammer is released from the front hook, the disco makes contact to the back hammer hook above the sear to add increased tension to the trigger pull.  This increase in tension is the second stage of the trigger, and if you set the disco correctly, your going to get that increased trigger tension wall just before the hammer release from the front hook.  Not enough disco tension, your just going to have a constant light trigger pull with the hammer releasing before the trigger ever increases in tension pull weight.  Too much disco engagement (disco set too forward against the back of the trigger hook), your going to get increased tension to the trigger before the front sear is even close to releasing the trigger, and just more creep with the stronger tension on the trigger until the hammer releases.

Bottom line, the increased tension feel of the trigger tells you that any more pull of the trigger is going to release the trigger after you have taken up the trigger creep, Hence a two stage trigger set point.   So again, your not trying to adjust trigger take up creep out of the trigger, but instead, adjust the disco to you get that second stage increased trigger tension point feel, telling you that anymore movement of the trigger more rearwards is going to release the hammer.



P.S. once you learn to set up the trigger correctly, then do so again with the set screws wet with loctite.  You have a few mins before the loctite sets up, and give plenty of time to adjust the trigger correctly before it sets.

Sound almost right, but with the hammer cocked, and the trigger untouched, as you are taking up the creep, should be light trigger pull until just before the sear releases the hammer. This increased tension point (second stage) is caused by the disco making contract with the hammer above the rear hook.

You stated that that the trigger goes for a little creep, then increases, then you have a tad more pull with increased tension before the hammer releases (disco set a tad with too much engagement to the back side of the hammer hook).
 

With the disco set correctly, your going to have a steady light weight trigger creep, then get increased trigger tension as the wall, and from that point, even the slightly more trigger pull will release the trigger. So set the disco to create the second stage wall so any more trigger pull after that increased tension point (read a hair more pull), is going to release the hammer.

Bottom line, trigger should feel light in creep until you get to the set point of disco engagement to the back of the hammer to increase the trigger pull tension(the second stage), then it should feel like you just broke a glass rod with your finger (that hair more pull) to release the hammer.  With not enough disco engagement on trigger pull, you never get that increased second stage tension before the hammer releases ,and with the disco set to start adding tension too soon to the trigger pull, goes from breaking a glass rod feel to release the trigger, to snapping a bendy noodle instead (second stage stacked creep before hammer releases).

You know how to set it up now, so back the screws out about 4 turns, add loctite to the sear screw first, adjust it again, then reset the disco next.

Counting turns and readjust to those turns is just going to end up with the trigger not set crisp.

Plus, with the set screws only loctite a few threads, when the trigger does go to setting in, going to be easier to back the set screws out a few turns to re-loctite and re-adjusted then.