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Link Posted: 8/17/2008 11:11:27 AM EDT
[#1]

Originally Posted By DaFuzz62:
The following is from RB Precisions website.  I use this method during assembly rather than removing metal from the lower receiver or the upper receiver lug.  Works every time.

All of the Rock River Arms lowers are an extremely tight fit, they need to be worked in the following way :
[...]

The guys at RB Precision are very helpful.  THeir website has alot of good info too.  Hope this helps!


Awesome!!  This really did the trick for me.   Thanks for the post, otherwise I really would have been frustrated trying to troubleshoot the fit!
Link Posted: 8/18/2008 10:49:16 PM EDT
[#2]
Mine fits tight too. I like the tight fit of the RRA upper/lowers.
I found that if you remove both pins, seperate the upper and the lower and then put the two parts back together, pushing the rear pin in first and then the front pin, No problem.

Link Posted: 11/28/2008 11:24:47 AM EDT
[#3]
My uncle bought a factory built RRA lower and factory built RRA upper at different times. He couldn't get the upper to close in the lower. We tried 4 different uppers, and it never locked up.

He sent the two assemblies to RRA. They replaced the entire lower assembly.
Link Posted: 12/26/2008 11:21:00 PM EDT
[#4]
I love them like that,  my favorite builds are Bushy uppers with RRA lowers, fit too tight, have to dremel the rear lug, but damn! you get a perfect tight fit with NO wobble.
Link Posted: 3/28/2009 4:45:16 PM EDT
[#5]
My relative bought a factory built complete RRA lower. We tried ArmaLite, Bushmaster, Colt, DPMS, Eagle Arms (Coal Valley), Eagle Arms Div of ArmaLite, Rock River, & Smith and Wesson uppers on it. Nothing would fit.

He gave up and shipped it to the factory. Rock River sent a new lower with his LPK in it (he marked a few parts to see if the internals would come back).

Link Posted: 4/3/2009 11:57:37 PM EDT
[#6]
Im having the same problem. My worn A2 upper works fine, but the newer RRA and YHM uppers wont work. I can't send it back because it's been SBR'd

I have a bunch of different uppers so id rather fit the lower to the uppers then each upper to the lower.
Link Posted: 5/18/2009 12:32:12 AM EDT
[#7]
Yes I have that problem too with the RRA. At first I thought it was bc I have the stag upper with the RRA lower which doesnt complement each other until I did a little more research and it all came down to wiggle'in it in and smackin it.  I believe rock river lowers are commercial if I'm not mistaken which is mass produced... all in all you might have gotten a bad lower and need to send it back in.  good luck!
Link Posted: 6/15/2009 10:34:27 PM EDT
[#8]
ditto

two new RRA lowers and my uppers (keyhole) very tight fight not enough I had to sand or grind away but when I push in the takedown pin I have to tap it in and then upon removeal I have to tap out and then slap the barrel to break apart the upper and lower..


tried the same uppers on a superior arms and dpms lowers and they both work perfectly.
Link Posted: 7/15/2009 12:06:14 PM EDT
[#9]
You guys rock you saved me from doing something stupid. I have a Noveske lower with a DPMS upper it wasn't even close to being able to push the pin in.
I took your advise and tapped the upper closed with a rubber mallet IT WORKED. I did it a couple of times and now it works perfectly.
THANKS
Link Posted: 11/21/2009 3:43:29 PM EDT
[#10]
My YHM upper was way too tight in my RRA lower. So I wound up with a Fulton upper on the RRA. No fitting required.
Link Posted: 12/16/2009 4:25:10 AM EDT
[#11]



Originally Posted By SASNAK:


I just bought a new RRA upper to go on my old RRA lower and i am having the problem with the pin.  The upper closes but I have to use a punch to get the back pin to go into the opposite side.  Should I ream the block hole a little or just let time wear it in?



same here, my takedown pin is very tight. with the front pin in, the rear pin holes are not lined up perfectly (RRA lower with Spikes Tactical upper).  working it in and out several times as well as getting YHM EZ takedown pins seem to help some. Probably will still need to use my delrin punch to start the rear pin for a little bit when taking out, but I think it is going to be ok (at least I hope so cause I'm just about to finisg this build and hope the rest of the lower is in spec).



 
Link Posted: 4/3/2010 2:42:38 PM EDT
[#12]
my RRA lower fits perfectly on my Stag upper. It was a tad bit tight at first, but i just had to put a tiny bit of oil on the pivot pin. now its GTG
Link Posted: 4/28/2010 6:41:58 PM EDT
[#13]
I recently got a LMT MRP upper.  I borrowed the RRA lower off from my Elite Comp rifle to test it out and could not get both pins to engage.

I could attach the front pin, but then not close the rear pin.  I could attach the rear pin, and the front would not go.

I did not find and tight fit issues at the rear upper lug, although I tried the "cycle it many times" thing.  No luck.

Then I noticed there are two small bumps on the upper.  They are just aft of the front pin, on the bottom facing surface that mates up to the top of the lower.  The top surface on my RRA lower does not have any receiving cuts for them and when I check the RRA upper, I do not see these bumps on it.

I also have a RRA Coyote and had the exact same story.

So I wanted to know if anyone had any feedback on this.  I am planning on building up a new lower for the LMT upper at some point in the future.  I had planned to use a new RRA lower since it is what I already own on a few other rifles.  I figured I would not do any modifications at this point, at least until I got the actual lower I plan to use long term.  Then if I needed to do any fitting work, I would think about lightly sanding down the bumps on the upper to get the two to fit.  It does not look like it would take alot of material removal.

Thoughts?  As you can tell by now, this is a new thing for me...
Link Posted: 6/3/2010 12:32:15 AM EDT
[#14]
I too had that WTF over, when I tried to attach a factory completed Rock River lower to a factory completed upper from DoubleStar.   I looked, scratched my head, thinking it was the DoubleStar's fault.  When I build up my DoubleStar's lower - no problem mating up either the Rock River upper or DoubleStar upper.

I could understand the problem if it was a Rock River lower in the white - versus a finished off receiver from the factory.  Makes me what to re-consider doing my next build on my current spare RR receiver without going to an RR upper.  I just love the Rock River's two stage trigger - real sweet.  No tune up / dremel was required for the Rock River upper / lower so I won't tweak a thing.

Right now I am thinking I might just buy a Spike's Tac upper / lower pair for my next build....once I figure out what sort of build it would be.   That way I can tell just how touchy the Rock River - or for that matter Double Star is with other parts.


Brad -


Link Posted: 6/4/2010 11:32:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: aggiefan72] [#15]
double post
Link Posted: 6/4/2010 11:32:46 PM EDT
[#16]
After I installed my RRA half quad free float rail , it prevented the upper and lower from coming together. I just backed off the lock nut a bit and moved the rail toward the muzzle to give them more room to attach to each other and they fit fine.  Make sure the rail is not doing what mine did.
Link Posted: 9/18/2010 11:55:10 AM EDT
[#17]
Originally Posted By Powerslide91:
I recently got a LMT MRP upper.  I borrowed the RRA lower off from my Elite Comp rifle to test it out and could not get both pins to engage.

I could attach the front pin, but then not close the rear pin.  I could attach the rear pin, and the front would not go.

I did not find and tight fit issues at the rear upper lug, although I tried the "cycle it many times" thing.  No luck.

Then I noticed there are two small bumps on the upper.  They are just aft of the front pin, on the bottom facing surface that mates up to the top of the lower.  The top surface on my RRA lower does not have any receiving cuts for them and when I check the RRA upper, I do not see these bumps on it.

I also have a RRA Coyote and had the exact same story.

So I wanted to know if anyone had any feedback on this.  I am planning on building up a new lower for the LMT upper at some point in the future.  I had planned to use a new RRA lower since it is what I already own on a few other rifles.  I figured I would not do any modifications at this point, at least until I got the actual lower I plan to use long term.  Then if I needed to do any fitting work, I would think about lightly sanding down the bumps on the upper to get the two to fit.  It does not look like it would take alot of material removal.

Thoughts?  As you can tell by now, this is a new thing for me...


Same issue for me. the rear lug goes in and out of the lower fine, i just cant get the rear pin in due to the extra material on the front of the upper. The front will be completely tight and at the rear there is a slight gap which keeps the holes from lining up. i can do one pin or the other but not both without having to flip the rifle upside down and pressing as hard as i can against the flat top to start the rear pin. Once its started i still need a hammer to get it close and a punch and hammer to open it back up.
Link Posted: 10/5/2010 9:55:36 AM EDT
[#18]
MY SABRE DEFENSE LOWER AND DEL-TON UPPER, WENT TOGETHER LIKE BUTTER AND IS STILL VERY TIGHT!!  "VERY NICE FIT"
Link Posted: 12/26/2010 3:59:17 PM EDT
[#19]
I too purchased a RRA Lower,  I tried 3 different uppers, from 3 different manufacterers; Bushmaster, Oly & Dpms none of them fit on my Rock River lower. However my AR-57 upper dropped onto the RR lower like it was custom made for it.
Link Posted: 6/23/2011 10:04:08 PM EDT
[#20]
Also glad I found this thread. I was so frustrated last night when I received my brand spanking new precision honed JP Enterprises JP-15 upper and it would not mate with, or even court, my RRA-based lower. I had to beat it to death to get it together and then had to whack the front of the barrel on the carpeted floor to open it –– hope I haven't  knocked my upper out of alignment. The takedown pin could only be coerced to fit with a mallet.

Before I go further, there are two important factors: 1 –– I have on order a new JP-15 matching lower that should be in a few weeks so that means I'm not about to start taking material off of the lug of a $1,300 upper. 2 –– I have had this RRA lower for more than a year and fired about 400 rounds through a 24-inch bull barrel RRA upper. It's a nice snug fit with the existing RRA upper but not anything like last night's ordeal with the JP. So there's no use shooting it and waiting for it to solve itself ... that ain't gonna happen.

With that said, I have a new LMT 14.5 upper coming in any day that WILL have to be mated to that stubborn RRA lower.

Unless someone has come up with a sure fire solution over the past few years, I am going to patiently take a small three-sided file or my Dremel tool to the back corners of that RRA lower and make it fit the LMT upper. Then it will be a round file in the takedown holes or sandpaper on the rear takedown pin for a complete fit.

Snug is snug, and nice, but stubborn is stupid. Still, I will solve this problem ... for it is now a challenge.
Link Posted: 6/24/2011 6:12:29 PM EDT
[#21]
OK, so today I measured the width of the lug on the JP-15 upper and the opening of the RRA lower's rear end. The results varied widely on both parts but kept a constant of only about two-thousandths difference, with the lower being a tad wider.

So instead of removing material, I went with the "wang it on down" method and it worked after several, several, several tries. At first I had to keep tapping the end of the barrel on the carpeted floor to get the thing back open. Gradually, it got to where I could whack the barrel with my hand. Finally, it got down to just a sharp slap of my hand on mid-barrel. Instead of a fine mating, it was more like aggravated rape.

The takedown pin is still stubborn but is working its way through better. Tonight I will take some JP Bore Compound and coat the lower receiver area of concern and the takedown pin and work them a little more, so as to get a smoother mating.

It will be interesting to see if this process has opened the RRA lower enough to accept the new LMT upper when it comes in next week. Otherwise, I'll be wangin' it some more before taking sandpaper or a file to it...which I will do if necessary.



Link Posted: 7/11/2011 9:11:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: jenamy] [#22]
If your AR is a carbine  you probably have the receiver extension (buffer tube) screwed in one thread too far.  Check on that before doing any cutting.
Link Posted: 8/14/2011 10:19:35 PM EDT
[#23]
Holy mother of goodness
This is the exact question I was about to ask, I will go back and read the entire thread, but I just bought a 1400$ upper aac blackout and it will not fit on my RR Lower
Link Posted: 4/23/2012 3:57:37 PM EDT
[#24]
I have the tactical operator 2, similar problem, except front take down pin. The rear pin is fine. The front pin will not slide into the upper without using a mallet or banging the hell out of it. If you want to to remove the front take down pin then you have to use a screw driver or something similar as a punch. This rifle was purchased in one piece assembled, new in box from factory. I emailed rock river and they sent me a new front take down pin free, but that isnt the problem. The upper slot simply wasnt fully machined and to the naked eye you can see it is rough and uneven. Oh well. Rifle still shoots like a champ.
Link Posted: 7/8/2012 8:51:22 PM EDT
[#25]
Originally Posted By asltrfl:
I have built at least 20 beautiful AR's using Rock River lowers, they are GREAT!  My first time, like you, pissed me off, I thought, "what the hell", but after careful consideration, I decided to lightly dremel the upper corners of the rear lug on the upper.  Why the upper and not the lower, well, the upper receiver cost less than the lower, and after dremeling just a little at a time and then applying "aluminum black", you couldn't even tell any work was done at all, I had a better fit than any complete factory gun I have ever purchased, and boy do I love a "PERFECT", tight fitting upper and lower.  My builds are a better fit than any Colt, Bushy, or ANY factory rifle I have ever purchased complete.  Keep on making them that way Rock River!!


Or you got a Rock River that was converted to a SBR lower by a C2. And found out after the transfer. I relieved my upper as well. The SBR is a little too valuable to hammer together. Personally,
I think it is a little too tight.
Link Posted: 10/12/2012 12:52:44 AM EDT
[#26]
I've only done AK builds before and have been hanging out on those forums for a few years, but this is my first AR. I've been lurking around observing for a while and finally have something to contribute.

Just got a PSA Hammer Forged mid upper to use with a RRA lower. Like others in this thread, I was VERY concerned when the upper wouldn't close and seemed to be hanging on the rear take-down pin block. The last thing I wanted to do was to start aggressively forcing parts together on my first AR without experience knowing which parts if any might need a little love tap, and which might bind up, bend, or snap off, particularly after waiting 6 weeks for it.

I'm happy to report that after reading through this thread, I lightly rem-oiled the pin, the lower, and the retention block, and after a few taps with the plastic handle of a pry-bar, it seated nicely. The pin slid in and out with what seems like just the right amount of force: snug, but I don't have to tap or pry it out.

After about 6 or 7 cycles, re-oiling each time, there's no forcing, but there's no play. The upper snaps down, and snaps back out.

This procedure seems to work great for easing out the tolerance. Maybe it felt less unusual to me after dealing with surplus AK's for so long where a little extra force is the not only sometimes normal, but often required - still I'm no "bigger hammer" advocate.

Incidentally, I'm glad my first post got to be something that might be helpful to someone. I hate when my first post in a forum is a gripe or a problem that I need help with.
Link Posted: 1/6/2013 2:01:42 PM EDT
[#27]
In my case it was the buffer tube. A bit too much material after the last thread on the top side. The locally made billet aluminum lower was not the problem. Being my first lower build it took a while to find and this thread was helpful.
Link Posted: 1/10/2013 8:16:17 PM EDT
[#28]
This is my first post and I have to share my experience tonight.  I recently bought a RRA Pistol lower and was concerned because while I was waiting for my PWS Diablo to arrive I tested my Bushmaster 16" upper on it and it was rediculously tight.  I found this thread and read through to the end.  When my PWS arrived I had decided that I was not going to rough it up trying to make it fit if it did not want to.  So after recieving it it would not close without the help of a rubber mallet and would not open either without one. I used some grease and tried opening and closing a few times and did not see any improvement.  So, I pulled out the dremel, used one of those round felt buffers the size of a thick pen and used some fine metal polish that I keep for car detailing.  After one small buffer felt was half its size and two tries to reattach the PWS it now goes on very snugly and opens with a smack of my palm.  It is absolutely perfect now. Best of all the finish is polished slick and there is no metal showing, but just polished black.  Anyhow, best of luck to you all and thanks for the helpful forum.
Link Posted: 3/11/2013 9:39:53 PM EDT
[#29]
Originally Posted By Buckslayer06:
I know exactly what you mean.. My girlfriend bought one and the pin is a biotch to get it and out its almost impossible. The local gun shot suggested "emory" cloth im not sure how you spell it but I guess its just abraisive material to shave down the pin. I have a DPMS and have no problems whatso ever


Originally Posted By Buckslayer06:
I know exactly what you mean.. My girlfriend bought one and the pin is a biotch to get it and out its almost impossible. The local gun shot suggested "emory" cloth im not sure how you spell it but     I guess its just abraisive material to shave down the pin. I have a DPMS and have no problems whatso ever


     Don't do this  
Link Posted: 5/2/2013 10:16:56 AM EDT
[#30]
Wow, it's not often I'd post to a 7 year old thread! Since it's not me bringing it back (already posted to multiple times this year) and it's a very informative/useful thread, I'll add my two cents.

Finishing my build last night (Colt surplus M16 A1 upper from CDNN a bunch of years ago) on a Nodak Spud lower (brand spankin' new), I ended with the receivers mating up just fine, but the rear takedown pin not wanting to close. It went almost through the block (of the upper) then just got bound up a bit. Lightly tapping with a rubber mallet, it worked it's way slowly closed (was careful to be sure it was lined up with the receiver hole on the other side).

I then needed a punch and the mallet to open it. The pin was fitting, just way too tight. After reading through the entire thread here (and a few others I also found with Google), I see it's not a highly unusual situation, and know I can expect it to get better as I work it some more (already has, after a dozen or two tries, I can now close the pin by hand most of the time, still really tight). More working the pin (as well as firing) will be in order, but glad to know I don't have particularly bad situation here (plus this thread taught me some other things to watch for in future builds, like overly tight takedown pin block to lower receiver fits, especially with RRA lowers). All good to know, glad this place is here, thanks for the info.
Link Posted: 9/1/2013 7:31:00 PM EDT
[#31]
Ok guys, I've read through all this. Seems my Aero Precision lower is suffering this over-tight issue as well. I've put multiple uppers on it and it won't close without some muscle. To get the takedown pin in and put is a chore. Biggest concern is, when pouting a mag in, it really has to be slammed in. Then if i manually cycle, it's jamming like crazy. Almost like the lower is sitting too far below the upper and not even lining up with the feed ramps. When i eject the cartridge, the projectile is scratched up pretty bad. I haven't shot it yet because of the clearance and manual cycle issues. Anybody else with this tight fit issue experience the further issues I've described? Or do i have multiple issues? I've pulled the hammer out, same tight problems, pulled the buffer tube off, same problem. I've eliminated all suggested alternative issues with fit and certainly determined it's the lower, but fear I may have more than one issue, or will the feeding improve once the upper sets into the lower better? So frustrated!
Link Posted: 9/12/2013 2:11:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: MP9cBilly] [#32]
delete
Link Posted: 5/1/2014 10:13:32 PM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By in812:
I bought some RRA lowers, built one of them, put a RRA upper on it, and clips wouldn't fit; after a lot of measuring, I found the mag well was not cut in the right location, it was shifted .040 forward causing interference with the upper, so I check my other lowers and found all 4 of them are out of spec! I bought them at 2 different dealers, 1 dealer just swapped me out a couple he had in stock (talk about customer service!), the other dealer didn't want to believe there was a problem at first, and then wanted to ship them back for warranty, well I had already called RRA, they said they knew of the problem and had some set back to take of the bad ones that got out, now dealer #2 tells me, "Oh, it's going to be a while, they won't have those for several weeks!" I'm about to sell all my RRA lowers and parts and buy from a company that has some quality control!

Just a heads up for all you out there with RRA lowers, here is how I found my problem: print for an AR shows the front flat of the mag well 0.225 from the back of the front pin, or 0.350 from the center line of the front pin, depending on whose print you look at, but 1/2 0.250 pin puts them in the same place; an easy way to check them is to put in a 0.250 dowel pin and Mic across the pin to the flat, it should be 0.475 +/- tolerance, sure not 0.435 (.040 shifted forward)!
View Quote


interesting info
Link Posted: 5/1/2014 10:23:39 PM EDT
[#34]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By dadofhjs:
OK guys, I've read through all this. Seems my Aero Precision lower is suffering this over-tight issue as well. I've put multiple uppers on it, and it won't close without some muscle. To get the takedown pin in and out is a chore. Biggest concern is, when putting a mag in, it really has to be slammed in. Then if i manually cycle, it's jamming like crazy. Almost like the lower is sitting too far below the upper and not even lining up with the feed ramps. When i eject the cartridge, the projectile is scratched up pretty bad. I haven't shot it yet because of the clearance and manual cycle issues. Anybody else with this tight fit issue experience the further issues I've described? Or do I have multiple issues? I've pulled the hammer out, same tight problems, pulled the buffer tube off, same problem. I've eliminated all suggested alternative issues with fit and certainly determined it's the lower, but fear I may have more than one issue, or will the feeding improve once the upper sets into the lower better? So frustrated!
View Quote


did this ever resolve? I'm trying to mate a RRA lower with an Aero Precision upper, which led me to this thread...
Link Posted: 5/1/2014 11:02:16 PM EDT
[#35]
Who needs that crap.  Tight tolerances is one thing but having to use a mallet and a punch is unacceptable.
Link Posted: 5/7/2014 12:47:01 PM EDT
[#36]
My PSA lower was that way at first.  I had to beat it together with a gunsmith mallet to get the pins to seat flush.  I was unable to push the pins back out by hand and had to use a brass punch.  After a few trips to the range and from taking it apart to clean I can now push the pins out and in with some resistance by using my thumb.  It seems that shooting the rifle and cleaning it several times it will work itself out.  My other AR which was a Stag was the same way.
Link Posted: 4/25/2015 1:09:00 AM EDT
[#37]
Link Posted: 6/16/2015 6:53:27 PM EDT
[#38]
I had this exact problem with my San tan lower and vltor mur upper. I tried the RRA suggestions as other had mentioned but it never got much better. I didn't want to grind anything down so I sent the upper back to vltor. They replaced and the new one was still really really tight. After doing the RRA suggestions it fit together great ,still tight but good.
Link Posted: 7/17/2015 12:12:39 AM EDT
[#39]
I had the same problem with a build I did for a friend. I couldn't figure out what was wrong until I started removing parts till it fit. It turns out the buffer Tube/receiver extension was screwed in one turn too much. I unscrewed the buffer tube one rotation where it was just barely holding the buffer retention pin and spring but the upper fit the lower perfectly. I think it may be a commercial buffer tube, it was from the cheapest lower parts kit we could find on eBay. All is good now but that may be what your problem was.
Link Posted: 7/17/2015 11:15:21 AM EDT
[#40]
Link Posted: 2/20/2016 6:23:52 PM EDT
[#41]
I had the same problem with my Olympic Arms PCR lower.
After a few trips to the range for a brake in session  and thorough cleaning, no problems after that.
Link Posted: 11/1/2017 11:15:38 PM EDT
[#42]
I had a similar Upper and Lower fitting problem with Aero Precision.
I could have modified parts my self as I have the tools and know how, but that's not what I paid good money for.

I contact AP and they returned good fitting products.

There will be issues, it's how company's respond that makes the difference in my choices.
Link Posted: 7/24/2019 12:28:24 PM EDT
[#43]
OP in my experience RRA are tighter on everything I put them on but once they wear together the are good to go.
Link Posted: 9/6/2022 10:15:10 AM EDT
[#44]
I bought a Rock River more than 10 years ago, and  it has always been tight to get the pins in and out.  Bought a 2nd lower last month, and it too was very tight.
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