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Posted: 7/27/2017 1:50:07 PM EDT
[#1]
Roll pin starter punches. I got mine off Amazon.
They're hollow, so you put the pin inside the end of the punch. Just get them started or you'll break the punch, since it's hollow. |
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Posted: 7/27/2017 1:52:06 PM EDT
[#2]
I get the pin started before I install the gas block on the barrel while I have better control of it. After its installed, the pin is much easier push in using a punch and hammer of a pair of pliers.
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Posted: 7/27/2017 2:05:40 PM EDT
[#3]
I made a little punch with a .070" hole in the end about half as deep as the pin is long. Works perfect.
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Posted: 7/27/2017 2:17:42 PM EDT
[#4]
I squeeze the roll pin down just the slightest bit with a pair of vise grip pliers. I then insert into gas block and use a pair of Knipix type channel lock pliers to squeeze it the rest of the way in. I also use this method on the bolt release roll pin install.
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Posted: 7/27/2017 2:24:45 PM EDT
[#5]
PRECISION REFLEX, INC. - GAS BLOCK ASSEMBLY FIXTURE
Gas Block fixture w/roll pin starter is designed for installing the gas tube and inserting the roll pin into the gas block. The block holds the gas block to allow the roll pin starter punch to start the roll pin. 
BROWNELLS - AR-15 FRONT SIGHT BENCH BLOCK Two Working Sides For Installation & Removal Big, tough, polyethylene block gives fitted support for installing/removing the front sight assembly on mil-spec, AR-15 rifles and carbines. Precision-machined and clearly marked on both sides for driving the mounting pins “IN” or “OUT” of the sight. Accommodates the sling swivel, plus, includes provisions for removing the gas tube roll pin. 
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Posted: 7/27/2017 2:35:17 PM EDT
[#6]
I line up the tube, start the pin with needlenose and a hammer, reinspect alignment, then drive it with a regular punch.
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Posted: 7/27/2017 2:37:27 PM EDT
[#7]
The white block and a set of starter punches are what you need.
Another thing you can do is ditch the roll pins for spring pins. They are easier to install, and have the same strength. I now have enough to do 50 gas blocks. mcmaster ss spring pins 
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Posted: 7/27/2017 2:38:15 PM EDT
[#8]
I use a nail set punch and a metal cobblers hammer and just go tap, tap and TAP, roll pin in.
I perplexed over the first couple until I figured it out, just make sure your hammer head is small enough that you can hit the pin without hitting the block. |
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Posted: 7/27/2017 4:41:49 PM EDT
[#9]
Out of all the roll pins I have installed, the GB roll pin is always the easiest. I use the items below to install mine. I rarely use the actual roll pin holder because the SLR GB's that I use 90% of the time come with a roll pin that you can start with your fingers. I then use a small roll pin punch and soft tip hammer. Below are the items I typically use.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 7/27/2017 5:33:02 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
PRECISION REFLEX, INC. - GAS BLOCK ASSEMBLY FIXTURE Gas Block fixture w/roll pin starter is designed for installing the gas tube and inserting the roll pin into the gas block. The block holds the gas block to allow the roll pin starter punch to start the roll pin. https://cdn.dsgarms.com/content/images/thumbs/0018919_pri-gas-block-fixture-wroll-pin-starter_550.png BROWNELLS - AR-15 FRONT SIGHT BENCH BLOCK Two Working Sides For Installation & Removal Big, tough, polyethylene block gives fitted support for installing/removing the front sight assembly on mil-spec, AR-15 rifles and carbines. Precision-machined and clearly marked on both sides for driving the mounting pins “IN” or “OUT” of the sight. Accommodates the sling swivel, plus, includes provisions for removing the gas tube roll pin. http://cdn-us-cf2.yottaa.net/53ff2f503c881650e20004fa/www.brownells.com/v~13.56/userdocs/products/p_080000252_1.jpg?yocs=l_&yoloc=us |
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Posted: 7/27/2017 5:37:10 PM EDT
[#11]
Made my own punch but I took a hockey puck,ground it to fit the contours of some gas blocks
Works fine, |
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Posted: 7/27/2017 5:41:01 PM EDT
[#12]
I start out by using a smaller pin punch to hold the gas tube in place, then as I tap the roll pin in place from the opposite side, the punch just drops out as the pin finds its way home. Think of the smaller pin punch as a guide or like a slave pin.
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Posted: 7/27/2017 8:15:05 PM EDT
[#13]
I use a pair of pliers with the jaws wrapped in blue masking tape.
nothing sets rollpins faster or more deliberately.. (especially for the bolt release on the lower) |
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Posted: 7/27/2017 8:21:54 PM EDT
[#14]
Am I the only one who uses a section of toothpick to keep everything aligned as I start to drive the roll pin in place?
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Posted: 7/27/2017 8:28:46 PM EDT
[#15]
To OP's other question, no, I would not cut a gas tube. Order a new one. There's a reason why the receiver end is flared to allow easy operation. It should stop halfway where the cam pin cutout is.
+1 to roll pin starters, they work great. |
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Posted: 7/27/2017 8:30:19 PM EDT
[#16]
Bitch and swear and throw shit.
Wait, that's me. 
PITA. Out of 15 now, 1 went smooth. I like the toothpick idea. 
Only thing I hate doing on an AR. |
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Posted: 7/27/2017 8:34:00 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Am I the only one who uses a section of toothpick to keep everything aligned as I start to drive the roll pin in place? 
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Posted: 7/27/2017 10:24:06 PM EDT
[#18]
Forcep clamp and small ball peen hammer.
Oh, and beers. The beers may be my problem? ? |
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Posted: 7/28/2017 12:29:17 PM EDT
[#19]
I use needle nose pliers to push the roll pin into the hole and hammer onto the pin or pliers to get it securely started. Then I grab a roll pin punch and drive it in. Or you can get a set of roll pin starter punches for 15 off Amazon.
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Posted: 7/28/2017 2:43:55 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Forcep clamp and small ball peen hammer. Oh, and beers. The beers may be my problem? ? |
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Posted: 7/29/2017 7:03:08 AM EDT
[#21]
I use a file to ease the edges on one end of the pin, dip that end in grease and use a starter punch to set it. Never had any issues using this method.
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Posted: 7/29/2017 10:38:22 PM EDT
[#22]
Tapper one end with a little sand paper and get it started. Insert tube and align. Put electrical tape on the other side of the gas block and press in with a small set of adjustable pliers. Finish with roll punch to proper depth.
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Posted: 8/3/2017 9:35:37 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Must be, I have never heard of that one.. |
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Posted: 8/3/2017 11:44:35 PM EDT
[#24]
I don't use starter punches (I think they're kind of silly). I just wrap a piece of tape around both the pin and punch (holding them together) until it gets started, then peel off the tape. Punch in. Done. No need for fancy "starter" punches.
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Posted: 8/3/2017 11:59:08 PM EDT
[#25]
That's the only size rollpin I have a starter punch for.
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Posted: 8/4/2017 12:10:23 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I made a little punch with a .070" hole in the end about half as deep as the pin is long. Works perfect.
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Posted: 8/4/2017 12:28:00 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Out of all the roll pins I have installed, the GB roll pin is always the easiest. I use the items below to install mine. I rarely use the actual roll pin holder because the SLR GB's that I use 90% of the time come with a roll pin that you can start with your fingers. I then use a small roll pin punch and soft tip hammer. Below are the items I typically use. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/278288/IMG-3006-264368.JPG |
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Posted: 8/4/2017 4:26:39 AM EDT
[#28]
Quoted:
I've built a bunch of uppers before, but I always struggle with this part. Usually I end up sharpening the roll pin a touch to get it in there, then smash it with a small hammer, lose it, re order one, etc. I haven't found a good way to do this reliably. Stupid I now. anyway, what's the best means to this end? I feel like it's a 3 handed job, and with the barrel, block, and tube all being weird shapes I can't lock it into my vice or down to the table. somebody help me be less stupid. Also I got a gas tube that's too long. Can I cut it back on the receiver end or just order a damn new one? (yes I know this post makes me sound like an idiot, but I promise I'm not...) If you cut the gas tube on the receiver end, you will have to re-bend it to match the countour of the chamber are of the barrel. Also, if you look very closely at the receiver end of the tube, it should be slightly bulged to create a better seal, and rolled in (or at least chamfered) on the end to help guide it into the gas key. It would be much easier to cut and drill the muzzle or gas block end of the tube, if you really feel the need to not spend the $10 for a proper size one. |
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Posted: 8/4/2017 4:30:53 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't use starter punches (I think they're kind of silly). I just wrap a piece of tape around both the pin and punch (holding them together) until it gets started, then peel off the tape. Punch in. Done. No need for fancy "starter" punches. For those using or thinking about starter punches, this wire insulation method also eliminates the need for two punches in your toolbox, and the need to switch punches during installation. |
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Posted: 8/4/2017 1:58:00 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't use starter punches (I think they're kind of silly). I just wrap a piece of tape around both the pin and punch (holding them together) until it gets started, then peel off the tape. Punch in. Done. No need for fancy "starter" punches. |
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Posted: 8/10/2017 1:12:48 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A short piece of insulation material from electrical wire slid over the punch works for this, too. As you continue to drive the pin, the insulation slides back over the punch. No need for the extra step of removing tape. Leave it on the punch, and slide it back out the next time you need it. For those using or thinking about starter punches, this wire insulation method also eliminates the need for two punches in your toolbox, and the need to switch punches during installation. |
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Posted: 8/10/2017 1:19:03 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote History"Silly" because they're not needed (even if only $5). I realize specialty tools make jobs easier, but it gets to the point of insanity when someone can't (mechanically) figure out how to keep a roll pin straight (given all the simple solutions for this).
I would venture to say that if one needs specialty tools for that (simple task), perhaps they are not mechanically inclined and should not be working on such things? |
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Posted: 8/10/2017 1:31:47 AM EDT
[#33]
Mav, what comes easy to some of us come difficult to others, just remember you as well as I started somewhere.
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Posted: 8/11/2017 12:07:18 PM EDT
[#34]
Open up vise jaws about 3/4", lay down T shirt/shop rag. Set gas block in recess, insert and line up gas tube. Use small needle nose to hold spring pin and tap in.
CD |
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Posted: 8/11/2017 6:03:08 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
"Silly" because they're not needed (even if only $5). I realize specialty tools make jobs easier, but it gets to the point of insanity when someone can't (mechanically) figure out how to keep a roll pin straight (given all the simple solutions for this). I would venture to say that if one needs specialty tools for that (simple task), perhaps they are not mechanically inclined and should not be working on such things?
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Posted: 8/11/2017 7:45:14 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hell, I installed the gas tube roll pins for 30 years using hemostats and a small hammer, now I use a roll pin starter punch.  Attached File |
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Posted: 8/11/2017 8:38:06 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yeah, Pursuit, I was doing that too, but it was such a PITA, I splurged on the Geissele starter and tapered punch just for gas tube roll pins. I only used them twice so far, and man, it was soooo much easier! Spendy, but worth it to me to eliminate the aggravation. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/415329/gas_block_pin_punch_set-277795.JPG
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Posted: 8/11/2017 9:05:15 PM EDT
[#38]
Do you need roll pin punches....No. Do they work really well and make the job easier.......Absolutely!
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Posted: 8/11/2017 9:52:47 PM EDT
[#39]
Chuck the pin into a drill and spin against 80plus grit sandpaper
Chamfer the opening with a slightly larger drill bit A light film of heavy oil Needle nose pliers or locking forceps |
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