In 2018, I have some plans for three different rifles I'd like to build, all AR platform. I'll elaborate more on those three if desired. Of course, I need tools. I have oodles and gobs of hand tools at my disposal (including a torque wrench), so all I think I need here are the specialty tools, perhaps one or two oddball punches. I want to make sure the tools I buy will cover my needs, so here's what I have planned.

*List amended to reflect new choices*

First build I plan on is a 16" carbine with collapsible stock. Nothing special really. No free-float, no optics (yet), just a normal M4 flat top style rifle with a couple parts swapped out, nothing too exciting, but I don't have one yet so, why not?
Second build is a 'dissipator' style rifle, utilizing the carbine length gas system and the normal FSB up front acting only as a sight. Fixed stock, reminiscent of an A2 service rifle, again nothing fancy.
Third is a Retro M16A1 build. Not much to say about this one either, just retro 20" rifle, albeit only 90% accurate. The other 10% is just my own personal taste, mostly just the finish being black instead of grey, and the use of a 3 prong flash hider instead of the A1 bird cage. Nothing too extreme.

To kick things off for tools, this is the vice I plan on buying. I tweaked my 4" vice a while back and I figure I ought to replace it. No better excuse than this one, and it should be more than enough for a few builds. https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/hand-tools/clamps-vises/masterforce-reg-6-workshop-vise-with-swivel-base/p-1453088413375-c-9135.htm?tid=-1537122580476553409&ipos=2&bargainStoreId=3257

I'm going to need an armorer's wrench, so here's one by tapco from brownells. Their links seem to be acting up, so here's the part number. Appears it should handle both carbine and fixed stock buffer tubes, not to mention the forever-important bottle opener. 100-009-876WB

(Originally chose the upper vice block method, until a better way was suggested) I've elected a brownell's Reaction Rod clone, as it will only get a handful of uses out of it's lifetime with me. 080-000-637WB

Lower vice block from Ergo Grips: 573-000-063WB  

Since I have a 3 prong flash hider in my future, I found a wrench for it, or I suppose this is technically an adaptor or 'bit', really. Semantics. http://www.thordsencustoms.com/3-pronged-flash-hider-wrench/

I have loads of punches, so I shouldn't need to buy any, but if someone would be so kind as to list off what punches I would need, that would be completely awesome of you to do. One last thing, I know I need grease for a few parts. I have a big can of high-temp wheel bearing grease, will this work fine or do I need something special? I would think it would but, then again I've never built an AR before. I send my appreciation in advance, fellow AR-15 hounds.

Get a Geissele Reaction Rod.

Somehow I completely avoided that tool. Genius idea behind it, although $100 is a little steep imo. After a few minutes of searching though, I did come across a brownells brand clone for half the price [080-000-637WB], the only downside is that it doesn't have the flats on the sides like the geissele does. Shouldn't be too much of an issue for a guy with a spare breaker bar or a vice with provisions for use with pipes.

Sounds good.

A few minutes on a mill would solve the flats problem.

If not, a disc grinder or a file can make enough of a flat that you can still use a wrench with it.

For the upper vice block, i'd suggest looking at the Magpul BEV Block. Its on sale for ~$35 at primary arms right now, and I've done plenty of uppers with it without issues. It is a bit more involved than the reaction rod, in that you need to use a bolt carrier to lock it into the upper recviever, but the hassle, to me, is well worth the lower cost. Also.... flip it over, and its a lower receiver block too. Kill two birds with one stone.

Aeroshell grease is the gold standard. Its relatively cheap (~10) online for a small container, and it lasts a long time.

I've got a pile of punches, so cant help as to which ones specifically you'd need, but a few companies sell kits. (ETA: I guess I lied.. see the list below)

5/64 roll pin punch for gas tube
1/8" roll pin punch and holder for the rear trigger guard pin. (should also work for front sight post, if using pin-on style, or step up to the 3/32 till flush, then a few taps to center it with the 1/8)
3/32 roll pin punch and holder for bolt catch. (also upper receiver for the forward assist)
5/32 pin punch for trigger pins.

Magnificent, you rock.  I'll have to hit the toolbox tomorrow and make sure I have 'em all. Local hardware store sells punches for 3.50 a pop, so even if I had to buy all four, it's not like $14 would break the bank on builds that would be around 800 bucks before any shipping charges are added.

I do like the idea of having two tools in one, but there's something about the style of the rod I like. Looks tough and means buisness, and if I'm not mistaken, the BEV block appears to be made from polymer, whereas this rod, I would guess at being, some type of tool steel. I could be wrong, but Magpul is kind of known for their polymer stuff so, it wouldn't surprise me to see it made of polymer as well.


@taiwanluthiers: I'll try it with a breaker bar in a vice first and see how that works out, hopefully it will; because I don't have any kind of access to a mill. I wish I did, though. Could make my own reaction rod and a few custom parts while I was at it

I think the Brownells tool is designed to be used differently then the Geissele reaction rod.  The Brownells tool is also 2.5" shorter.  

There is a video from the Brownells website showing how it is used.
Brownells tool

From Magpul "Engages barrel extension with solid steel lugs and full length support shank to prevent flexing. Steel hardness is optimized for durability yet won't damage barrel extension, and Magpul Polymer is used for all other engagement surfaces to protect aluminum receiver."

Basically, the portion that engages the barrel extension is metal, if memory serves me correctly, picture a "T" with the right end engaging the barrel extension, the left end designed to engage a BCG, and the long, bottom, portion running the length of the block all the way to the base, and covered in polymer to keep from scratching things up.

redtruck90: Well I was half right about the material used....sort of. I think I ultimately like the brownells tool a bit more, not sure why. I think it does help that it can be field used, unlike the BEV block......although I'm not sure why I'd ever use it in the field given what I do (or don't) do. Still, versatility is a big plus in my book.

Double-Deuce: Definately not how I pictured the tool being used. I'll admit I didn't read the description, just sort of skimmed. Figured it was used instead of a block to achieve the same thing. The way he has it set up there looks very easy, still though. Thanks for the clip, I think you saved me some cash and a few damaged parts.

I got by using wooden barrel blocks I made from some Oak for the longest time.  Can barrel an upper as well as put a muzzle device on.  I have a clamshell and a set of PlastiXrevolution receiver blocks.  Those only get used for barrels, never for muzzle devices.  For muzzle devices I break out the wooden barrel blocks again.  Haven't had a single issue in 10 years.....and I've built or worked on a LOT of AR's and M4's.  Hundreds at this point

Lol the first 3 guns you built were the first guns I wanted to build. However I did end up changing things up in the end. For example the I wanted a dissipator for the longest time, but ended up going with a standard mid length. I had the chance to shoot one, and they're a bit on the heavy side, as most on the market use a Hbar with the addition of a FSB and a low profile gas block (all being steel) I saw no advantage other than of course being cool.

The M4 turned into a .22 M4... a California thing.... I can use a flash hider, pistol grip, and collapsible stock on a .22

I saw that you were going to use a torque wrench with the Tapco wrench. I found that kind of hard, as you have this heavy steel wrench hanging off another steel wrench trying to torque on a barrel nut. I've found that the DPMS or Mil Spec barrel nut wrench (20- 25$) is easier to use with a combination of a stock wrench (7-10$) . Buying both is around the same as a Tapco Wrench, with the same capabilities except of course you can't open up any beers with them.

Oh and here are some Colt Competition M4 Style Uppers that are on sale: Here might be something interesting there for you.

Great minds think alike, eh? I'll probably change something too, but not by much. That site is a great deal so far, like that railed M4 upper. If I didn't need  tires right now, I'd stomp on that instantly. Maybe it'll still be at that price later.

The place I plan on buying my dissipator barrel from has both a 'turned down' lighter weight version as well as a heavy barrel model. This is a link to their barrel kit with handguards, delta ring, etc. The non-kit version also has the pre-pinned (I would assume pre-pinned) FSB. https://shop.windhamweaponry.com/collections/barrels-parts/products/kit-ba16m4d

While I was looking around, I stumbled across this little gem..... https://shop.windhamweaponry.com/collections/barrels-parts/products/kit-ba14m4-7-a2x

I initially wanted a pinned and welded 14.5 barrel for the carbine build, but I wasn't sure how much the welding would be and the only local gunsmith I have says he has to see the parts, no matter how well I describe them or how standard they are, leaving me hesitant to buy parts for an operation that could cost me more than all the parts combined; because I get screwed over like that for some reason. Anywho.... I'm definately going with either this or just the barrel version. Thought you guys might be interested in that.

Yea, I looked at that dissipator too. After shooting it, I decided not too, just because the FSB adds a good sum of weight.

I don't think the weight will bother me, and I actually like the fact all four rifles will feel different from each other; unique in their own way. Sort of like how two different cars that came off the assembly line minutes apart will drive differently.

Decided to total up the cost of all the tools I plan on buying, which totals up to around 200 dollars. Includes a bench vice, gun mat (to protect parts from scuffs), ergo bench block, brownells wrench mentioned earlier, four punches @ $6 ea., a set of padded vice jaws, 3 prong flashhider wrench, and tapco armorer's wrench. $200 hurts a little bit, esspecially considering most of these tools will only get a few uses our of their lifetime, so I opted to try and minimize the cost a little bit, if I can.

Looked on midway USA and found a cheaper bench block at only $12 vs $25, only downside is it's by Promag. Reviews seem to be generally positive, although a few have needed to trim theirs down to fit their lower. Not sure if the lower or the block is out of spec in those cases, but trimming no less is what had to be done, which I'm OK with doing.

That being said, I'm considering not using a block at all. The most pressure that would have to be applied to the rear would be when tightening the buffer tube, which if I'm correct is 35 FT pounds. Now, I would think that if a set of padded vice jaws is OK for installing sights on a pistol, that it would be OK for installing a buffer tube on a rifle, considering it's directly gripping the reciever instead of allowing something to act against the receiver inside the mag well.

Bad idea?