Here are the technical specifics:
Anderson lower that I assembled myself with a collapsible carbine stock
PSA 18" firle length gas, Wylde chamber upper
Almost every trigger pull is a FTE. Occasionally, I get a partial, and rarely an eject with FTF. But on the vast majority, I can't even pull the charging handle back by hand. Mostly have to take a piece of wood and tap it back. On those, is it short stroking and closing back or never moving at all?
I know the carbine buffer and rifle length gas system may not be jiving or I could be undergassed (block misallignment). If the block IS aligned and I am undergassed, will an adjustable gas block give me THAT much more gas to use to make this thing run? I'm overseas at work right now and just want to have as many ideas as possible when I get home.

An adjustable gas block is good for limiting gas when the barrel's gas port is too large for the set up, but not the other way around since the barrel's gas port is the limiting factor, assuming proper alignment, good gas tube, etc.

Is your gas tube gtg? Pinched, crimped?

Did you head space the barrel and bolt combination?

If the bolt is hard to move after firing, with the case still in the chamber, it sounds like an over pressure issue. If you are using decent factory ammo, more likely than not ruling ammo out as a source of the problem, then excessive head space seems the next most likely culprit - if over pressure is the issue.

How does the brass look after your cycle the action to eject it? A bright ring in front of the case head? Flat and/or cratered primers? Swipe marks?

And what ammo have you tried?

Before buying an adjustable gas block, I would do a bit of old fashion tuning with action spring/buffer combos.

http://i.imgur.com/4ujV3rn.jpg
(Ejection pattern and tuning methods chart)


Take two of those and call me in the morning.

If the chart does not help, i would look into your internals within the reciever that have a roll with feeding, extraction, and locking back the bolt.

Hate to admit it guys, but I was using Wolf steel ammo. But, the upper came with a BCG. That pairing had the problem, so I put in another BCG from a well running machine and same issue. My buddy (as I am at work, now...) is going to go try a couple of different brass rounds and look for pressure signs. More to come...

Scrub the barrel and chamber real good with solvent and a bronze brush, dry with clean patches. New barrels may have a preservative that gums things up.
 Rifle gas and carbine buffer system should be no problem. If you still have problems with quality ammo, you can look at other areas.

Is the head spacing good?  Seperate the recievers and hold the upper perpendicular to the floor. Hold the bcg halfway out and see how it seats when you drop it.  There could be a bad fit with the bolt face and barrel extension.

Had my buddy shoot the gun with 3 different ammos- Wolf steel 55 gn, PMC 62 gn, and Winchester 70ish gn hunting ammo. All still did the same and no signs of overpressure.

This could absolutely be a gas problem. If the BCG short strokes and the empty doesn't clear the chamber it feeds the empty right back in the chamber. This is why you have to pogo the gun to clear the empty

It was the gas block. it looked like there was quite a bit of blow-by where the tube goes into the block. Didn't see anything obviously wrong, though. Got a YHM clamp on block and it works like a champ. One thing I did notice when I removed the PSA block was that the barrel had not been dimpled. Everything I've seen has said to dimple the barrel for the set screws. Is this something I should point out to PSA or is dimpling really not that big of a deal?