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Posted: 4/29/2017 9:42:43 PM EDT
I haven't competed in 3 gun and might not until next year. I wanted to build my first AR, so is it bad idea to go spend some money on my first build? Should I just do a cheap build and then later on build a second AR geared towards three gun? From what I've seen lots of 3 gun rifles are:
18" SS barrel w/ rifle length gas system and adj gas block Drop in flat trigger lightweight fixed stock 15" free float hand guard I personally am leaning toward "buy once, cry once" but when in doubt ask the internet experts. Thanks. |
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[#1]
Dont worry about what people "run" in 3 gun. Get what you want and shoot what you build.
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[#2]
As a n00b I don't really know what I want. I know what looks good ascetically, but I don't want to just have a "cool" rifle.
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[#3]
Well, what looks good to you aesthetically? I'm sure the ARFCOM hivemind can help you put together a list of quality components that will function well and have your desired aesthetic.
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[#4]
Just get a 16" midlength with a melonited or chrome line barrel. You can use it for run and gun and shoot long distances. Jack of all trades.
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[#5]
I like the look of a lightweight fixed stock and long free float hand-guard. 16-18 barrel. Adjustable gas block is a must from what I've heard if you want something soft shooting. Drop-in triggers are pricey, but seem like the only way to get a 3# trigger w/ no creep. I am reading all the treads here, but wondered if any 3 gunners had suggestions. I want to avoid buying the wrong thing or upgrading parts later.
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[#6]
Thanks kaneljo3000,
18" gets a little cumbersome for run and gun? |
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[#7]
A gun built for general purpose use, is better at thee gun than a dedicated three gun rifle is at everything else.
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[#8]
Quoted:
Thanks kaneljo3000, 18" gets a little cumbersome for run and gun? View Quote |
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[#9]
ODIN SS barrels seem to be a good value and come with adj gasblock and tube. They have a few different lengths, gas system lengths, and profiles Primary Arms has them on sale right now.
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[#10]
I'd go lw bcg, buffer, and spring, and adj. gas block and some kind of muzzle brake. This will allow you to stay on sight, keep eyes open, and minimize flinch.
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[#11]
I like the above suggestion. I have seen people running rifle length gas systems with carbine buffers and short stroking... is it advised to either go rifle length stock w/ rifle gas system or carbine buffer with mid-intermediate gas system?
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[#12]
Quoted:
Thanks kaneljo3000, 18" gets a little cumbersome for run and gun? View Quote ETA: look at the spikes optimum barrel. It is made by FN. I have one - it is light, accurate and durable. I have rung steel with it at 600 yards. |
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[#13]
I say ignore the 3-gun aspect for your first build. Build something that is aesthetically pleasing to you and has the features you want in an all around rifle. From using that rifle you can find out exactly what is important to you in a rifle you'd build for 3-gun. My first build was an all out splurge on what I thought would make the best all around performing and what I found the most aesthetically pleasing to myself. From that I found that if I wanted to do some run and gunning that I would need something lighter and more manueverable as the first weighed almost 9lb unloaded. So next I built an all out budget oriented light weight rifle that came in at 5.5lbs. After both of those I know exactly what I want in a 3-gun rifle that I will be building later this year. It will be a mix of both with a few new aspects. It'll be lighter than my first but heavier than my 2nd muzzle device and optic that are better suited to 3-gun.
So my recommendation is don't build what we think is a good 3-gun rifle because what works for me might not work for you. Build what you think you'd like as an all around rifle and you will find what you do and don't like. |
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[#14]
For the barrel, it depends on gas port size, but rifle length or mid-length is probably preferable to carbine gas system.
For the lower, you can tune the carbine gas system with buffer weights up to the rifle length 5.3 oz, and can also consider the A5 system, or a full rifle length setup if using an A1 or A2 fixed stock. |
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[#15]
I appreciate that advice. That's kind of what I was looking for. The biggest cost is the barrel. Other than that things like drop-in triggers etc, can wait.
Quoted:
I say ignore the 3-gun aspect for your first build. Build something that is aesthetically pleasing to you and has the features you want in an all around rifle. From using that rifle you can find out exactly what is important to you in a rifle you'd build for 3-gun. My first build was an all out splurge on what I thought would make the best all around performing and what I found the most aesthetically pleasing to myself. From that I found that if I wanted to do some run and gunning that I would need something lighter and more manueverable as the first weighed almost 9lb unloaded. So next I built an all out budget oriented light weight rifle that came in at 5.5lbs. After both of those I know exactly what I want in a 3-gun rifle that I will be building later this year. It will be a mix of both with a few new aspects. It'll be lighter than my first but heavier than my 2nd muzzle device and optic that are better suited to 3-gun. So my recommendation is don't build what we think is a good 3-gun rifle because what works for me might not work for you. Build what you think you'd like as an all around rifle and you will find what you do and don't like. View Quote |
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[#16]
Suggested parts that are future-proof:
BA Hanson qpq 16" middy. I have a couple FN chf CL barrels and the BA is more accurate and lighter. I like the FN's too, Dont get me wrong. But if shooting out to 300-500 it makes a difference... I don't buy untreated stainless barrels any more bc they wear out faster. Geissele SD3G Geissele/ALG handguard. Muzzle brake because 3 gun. But get one that accepts a blast shield because muzzle brakes are awful for everything else. Stock of choice. Something from Magpul or B5 will work. I'd not recommend a fixed... because you don't know how you will prefer things setup because this is your first AR. (As far as length of pull and eye relief) I think starting off with a regular bcg and gas block might be good because it will give you a baseline to compare thIngs to later. The BA barrels come with a gas block, too, so no added cost. If you get regular milspec bcg and regular gas block and buffer you will have a rifle that runs... screwing around with complicated stuff is probably something to do when you are more experienced and can know what to look for. If at all. Scope? Depends on budget. |
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[#17]
The lower I built already with all milspec and a SL stock. Thinking about going AeroPrecision complete upper (16" qpq barrel w/ 15" m-lok ff handguard) when they go on sale. But I am looking at the BA Hanson sight now. No point in adding an adjustable gas block?
I am going to save up for optics and use irons or a sub $200 red dot until then. |
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[#18]
Quoted:
The lower I built already with all milspec and a SL stock. Thinking about going AeroPrecision complete upper (16" qpq barrel w/ 15" m-lok ff handguard) when they go on sale. But I am looking at the BA Hanson sight now. No point in adding an adjustable gas block? I am going to save up for optics and use irons or a sub $200 red dot until then. View Quote |
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[#19]
I would recommend a good 16" barrel like a larue stealth. They are way more than accurate enough for 3 gun, not that heavy and a great all around barrep that won't break the bank. My second recommendation would be the BA Hanson 17.7 3gun barrel. That is what I run in my 3g rifle. Since you haven't done 3g before and not sure you want to keep competing, and it's your first rifle, the 16" barrel would be the best all around option IMO. Don't go cheap on a barrel or bcg. BA, Faxon, Larue are going to be your best options for a mid priced barrel. LaRue would be the best option if they are still running their sale.
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[#20]
Quoted:
I would recommend a good 16" barrel like a larue stealth. They are way more than accurate enough for 3 gun, not that heavy and a great all around barrep that won't break the bank. My second recommendation would be the BA Hanson 17.7 3gun barrel. That is what I run in my 3g rifle. Since you haven't done 3g before and not sure you want to keep competing, and it's your first rifle, the 16" barrel would be the best all around option IMO. Don't go cheap on a barrel or bcg. BA, Faxon, Larue are going to be your best options for a mid priced barrel. LaRue would be the best option if they are still running their sale. View Quote |
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[#21]
Quoted:
What???? Larue stealth is heavy!!! I had a16" stealth and it weighed as much as my 18" spr barrel. Contour is heavy. View Quote |
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[#22]
Normally, the advice is go with what you have and shoot a few matches to see if you like the sport to move forward. However, since you are starting out from nothing, I think you already know the right components as you mentioned them earlier.
The most important being: 16-18" midlength or rifle length barrel good muzzle brake good trigger good optic adjustable gas and lightweight carrier (optional) If you really get into it and become a regular, your 3-gun build will see more rounds than most folks' SHTF rifle so quality will pay dividends over and over. |
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[#23]
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[#24]
I like that ^^ I have a good jumping off point.
Just built: SL stock anderson lower milspec trigger all polished up Magpul grip Soon to order: 16" barrel/M-lok hand guard on Aero Precision m4e1 upper ^ people say rifle length gas systems shoot softer, but I don't know how that is possible with adjustable gas blocks wouldn't if give similar impulse all else being equal? adjustable gas block and muzzle break upgrades (open to suggestions on these) |
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[#25]
Quoted:
I like that ^^ I have a good jumping off point. Just built: SL stock anderson lower milspec trigger all polished up Magpul grip Soon to order: 16" barrel/M-lok hand guard on Aero Precision m4e1 upper ^ people say rifle length gas systems shoot softer, but I don't know how that is possible with adjustable gas blocks wouldn't if give similar impulse all else being equal? adjustable gas block and muzzle break upgrades (open to suggestions on these) View Quote Otherwise SLR adjustable gas block, and a can if legal in your AO |
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[#26]
For a brake I highly suggest the POF muzzle brake. I run it on my 3g rifle. It does just as good a job as many of the top contenders but is only about 55.00 and is fairly lightweight. I tried a Miculek brake and it was good but heavy. If money is no object the sjc titan brake gets phenominal reviews.
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[#27]
POF seems to be a good value for the break. Their drop in triggers are also inexpensive.
It looks like BA makes barrels for Aero Precision, yes? |
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[#28]
I personally am leaning toward "buy once, cry once" but when in doubt ask the internet experts. Thanks. View Quote To add, I really like both my POF 3.5# straight trigger and my SLR Sentry adjustable blocks, have them on two rifles. One is a 14.5 mid and the other is a 16 mid. Both have AIM surplus LW carriers and LW buffers. Very soft recoil with their muzzle breaks. |
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[#29]
Quoted:
The problem is, you won't just buy once. Not that you'll be upset by this, but you're going to have two rifles in short time, with a third close to being finished from parts you've changed out. Ask me how I know... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
I personally am leaning toward "buy once, cry once" but when in doubt ask the internet experts. Thanks. |
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[#30]
I planned on just building one awesome one for myself, but someone convinced myself I need to build a dissimilar one "for my wife." And I have parts for almost a third rifle and other spares I've been selling. I don't know what the hell happened, but it started like 6 months ago and it's not getting better.
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[#31]
Quoted:
I planned on just building one awesome one for myself, but someone convinced myself I need to build a dissimilar one "for my wife." And I have parts for almost a third rifle and other spares I've been selling. I don't know what the hell happened, but it started like 6 months ago and it's not getting better. View Quote |
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[#32]
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[#33]
Quoted:
I would recommend a lightweight 14.5 pinned build if you don't have one. My wife's rifle is a hair under 5lbs without optics, and it's so nice to swing around. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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[#34]
Quoted:
I haven't competed in 3 gun and might not until next year. I wanted to build my first AR, so is it bad idea to go spend some money on my first build? Should I just do a cheap build and then later on build a second AR geared towards three gun? From what I've seen lots of 3 gun rifles are: 18" SS barrel w/ rifle length gas system and adj gas block Drop in flat trigger lightweight fixed stock 15" free float hand guard I personally am leaning toward "buy once, cry once" but when in doubt ask the internet experts. Thanks. View Quote So I've been shooting a match a month for a year now sometimes 2 matches a month and for a rifle you can get by without the LW BCG adjustable gas block. I've been using a 14.5 spikes/FN with a surefire socom brake. Trigger I had ssa-e in it then switched to Cmc flat 3.5 because I won two at a match. The most important things you can have are: Good barrel Trigger Brake 1-6/8 On my carbine I have a 1-4 tr24 green triangle I love it but when we push out to 3-400 and it's a small plate and I have to hit my reticle is holding me back. I have an 18inch rifle I built up that I'm going to put my 1-8 accupower on once I get a chance to take leave. The biggest thing for 3 gun rifle is off hand rifle racks at like 50-100 and long distance 250+ that's where you see the good vs the not so good. |
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[#35]
Before you go all out on a 3 gun build you might want to see what type of matches are available in your area and build a rifle suitable for that style of match. I have 3 rifles for matches. First one has a 18" Nordic barrel with rifle length gas. This barrel has a reduced sized gas port so adjustable gas isn't needed but I do run it with a lw bcg with weights removed from buffer. This is by far the softest shooting and most accurate gun but isn't the best for my local matches because long distance shots only go out to about 250yds. I use this gun mainly for major matches with longer distances where hits on long range steel make or break your overall placement. For local matches I have a 16" Faxon pencil barrel with a 1-4x scope and a 14.5" Faxon gunner running a red dot. Both are midlenth and have a lw bcg with adjustable gas key. These 2 are better suited for more bay style matches with limited distances. All three of guns are capable of performing on any level according to the shooters skill. Just for fun I shot the 14.5" this past weekend at a match with targets out to 400yds. I didn't get any hits past 250yds but ended up with a pretty good overall placement because half the stages were in bays and I that gun is so light that transitions are quick, the transitions were also quick on the distance shots also because I could pick the targets up quicker with the red dot. My point is befor you build a gun, make sure it's suitable for the matches available to you. Any midlenth gun with a decent trigger, comp, and optic will be fine. The gun has never held me back it's my skill that hinders my performance. Get you a fancy handguard and stock and you'll have a good looking rifle to boot.
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[#36]
Just ordered a 16" seekins upper from primary arms. Looked good as it came with bcg and adj gas block. The whole thing is on sale for $350 right now. I don't understand why rifle kits and complete uppers are less expensive than ordering part by part (as it saved on work for me), but I have to say that the building part is almost as much fun as the shooting.
We will see if my opinion changes once I get a few rounds down range. |
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