started with a billet seekins lower put in giessele ssa trigger seekins ambi selector and mag release. vltor extension and noveske qd end plate ergo grip .
then the upper was gonna be a noveske forged upper but ended up with a just buying a seekins complete NOXs upper cause it was less costly. what are you guy thoughts on the vltor  and what buffer spring and buffer should i put in there the ones in there now are borrowed.  and still dont know what to do for an optic/sights. and do you guys think i should take apart upper and make sure every thing is tight or do you think its good from factory.

Nice build.

If it were my rifle, I'd find a nice Aimpoint T-1 on the EE and run that.
Can you define "take apart the upper?" If you mean taking the rail off, then no. If you mean removing the CH and BCG and inspecting and cleaning, then YES. Make sure you give it a good cleaning and lube prior to trying it out, then post results.

Welcome to ARFCOM

i meant take off hand rail and such to make sure the barrel and every thing was tight but if you think from factory its good then ill leave well enough alone

Good first post.  Welcome to ARFCOM. 

Clean the gun as stated above.  Don't take off the barrel.

Check Brownells or Midway USA for the spring and buffer.

any specific brands you might suggest i was thinking of spike tactical.

so i finally got it out to the range yesterday i 100 yard with borrowed troy irons i was hitting paper but cant speak to my grouping because some dick head with a ruger mini 14 was spraying my target so i would 10 round and there would be 20 holes as far as break in i kinda half assed it since its a ss match barrel so i would fire 5round run a bore snake i did the for the first 30rounds im thinking that this will suffice i could be wrong i then shoot it a 30 more at 50 yards and it was a 2 inch group and that was with 62gr xm855 federal out of a 1:7 16" so and thats on irons and kinda rushing. i should have gotpic but for got my phone at the house.

sly:  I suggest you just leave the Seekins upper assy alone, assuming it shoots well and the ejection pattern is in the 3 to 4 oclock range.  Don't worry about the barrel nut being loose, more likely its gorilla tight.  BTW, military ammo is not going to provide top notch accuracy.  If you reload, start with premium bullets from Sierra or Nosler.  If you are going to use factory ammo, try several brands of match ammo from Federal and Black Hills to see what your rifle likes best. - CW

I did notice some marking on the deflector so I think it may be ejecting at more back than out I also noticed there is quite abit more play than I would like to see out of a billet upper and lower upper. For instance when I hold the mag well and move left and right the upper hits back an forth there is even play if I hold the upper and push and pull on the pistol grip  an that's between upper and lower. I might be sending it back to seekin cause I feel if left un checked that level of play will just cause problems down the road.

You bought the complete upper directly from seekins? If you have any concerns at all, just give them a call. I wouldn't even consider taking it apart in fear of voiding any warranty.

As for your play, do you mean between the upper and lower receiver? If you truly have enough play that your concerned, my guess is you cheap'd out on your take down pins and have them to blame.

But fear not! You have an seekins lower! You can make it rock solid regardless.....

Take off the grip. Then grab your torx/hex wrenches and adjust the tension. Gotta remove the grip, and then gotta remove the locking plug, then you can adjust the sucker in more and reinstall the locking bit, check tightness and repeat as needed.

My seekins upper and lower matted perfectly and was rock solid without adjusting it brand new. Then I played with the bugger and I'm guessing a bit of the anodizing flattened and it had a extremely minor bit of looseness, but unoticable unless you absolutely were hunting for it. At any rate, I did ever so slightly adjust mine to make contact with the lil green rubber dot. I highly doubt I'll need to adjust it again for several years now.

Here's a video: Skip the first 7 minutes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3xhuMUmwAA

i tried and as soon as the tightening screw makes contact the take down pin wont come out  so i cant open the upper from lower but as far as take down pin im not sure what i have in there but the person i got them from is one of these guys that wont buy any thing unless its from colt, noveske, larue, ect. so top tier im gonna assume they are not cheap quality. i also got the seekins lower from the same guy and it was sitting around for awhile so he would have bought it back in like 2012-2014 and from what i could find right in that time frame quite a few people were getting lower that were out of spec not saying my is but i fear it may be. id rather get it out of the way now then have to have them replace the whole gun in future.

You tightened it but then you couldn't pop the pin? Perhaps you need leverage.

Try YHM EZ Pull pins. Cost about 20$ and I haven't encountered anything better yet.
http://www.opticsplanet.com/yankee-hill-machine-ez-pull-takedown-pins-front-rear-set-yhm-7284.html

I'd be very surprised if your upper or lower had any flaws. FWIW, my lower and upper are several generations apart also and I have no concerns like your expressing here.

Pop your pins, do they wobble when popped out? If so, again, my bet is your take down pins are junk. It's all fine and dandy to swear by colt products, but your upper and lower aren't colt products themselves. Plus even colt has manufacturing tolerances and variances.

So here's the deal with these AR's they mate up with the upper and lower, but will have some form of gap always. That means for the most part, your tightness is purely on the tension of the take down pin. The green dot pushes against the upper to bind with the takedown pin, that is how it's intended to work and is why its rubber, so u can put pressure on it. If your pin OD isn't too small and matches with your uppers takedown pin holes ID, it works great with taking up the tiny bit of slack and completely eliminates any slack.

However, if your pins OD are smaller than your uppers or lower ID, then excessive slack happens, and it allows the upper to rock side to side since it really is just floating on the take down pins. (smaller OD on pin = upper can move UP and side to side making a gap you wouldn't have with proper OD pins) And this happens from normal wear, or poor mix and matching of parts. Ton's of solutions available pending your situation. Active service days I'd use a disposable ear plug and a piece of plastic wrapper to bind in there to make it rock solid. However you with all new parts, matching manufacturer upper and lower, I'm sorry man, I bet your pins are junk even if they are colt.

But hey, I could be wrong. You could always remove your take down pins and use a quality calibrated bore gauge micrometer and check the ID of your take down pin holes on your upper and lower, then measure your takedown pins OD.

But if your upper wobbles side to side AT ALL, it means your pin has a smaller OD than your uppers ID. And if your upper and lower ID match, then your pins are to blame.

So I measured the uppers tabs are .499inches and on the lower the front is .503 and rear is .500 as far as the take down pins and holes them self I could check them but I'm sure that's were I'm getting my side to side

Hi, here's a painless solution. It's the ERGO accu-wedge. $1.98 it should solve the problem if I understand the problem correctly.
ERGO Accu-wedge