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Posted: 3/14/2017 3:05:31 PM EDT

It crossed my mind that an AR with all wood furniture may be a thing of beauty. Especially since I am having trouble getting my head down close enough to the stock to shoot comfortably. The comb and drop on a traditional stock makes a big difference when it comes to raising the barrel up closer to eye level while leaving the butt low enough to fit the shoulder comfortably.

The biggest question is "What do I do with the buffer spring group?"

It does not seem like it would curve down very well, and getting a pistol version seems weird if I am making it right back into a rifle...

Thoughts?

Posted: 3/14/2017 4:39:44 PM EDT

[#1]

I have one but cannot post pictures because of not enough post count but everything fits together like an A2 stock, either carbine or rifle profile,

I guess I do have enough, here it is

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16681832_10208630422066621_2403292161413581841_n.jpg?oh=be0752918f38b4fed5f56f16f66b459f&oe=592CE2EA

Posted: 3/14/2017 4:47:25 PM EDT

[#2]

I opted for the free floating rather than the carbine wood handguard

Posted: 3/14/2017 5:14:31 PM EDT

[#3]

I think wood would look better with a slick side upper. Also gloss curly figured black walnut would be cool.

Posted: 3/14/2017 5:28:53 PM EDT

[#4]

Meh, black rifles deserve plastic.

Posted: 3/14/2017 5:47:44 PM EDT

[#5]

Fightlite SCR w/ 1100 wood stock.

Posted: 3/15/2017 8:02:12 AM EDT

[#6]

Quote History

Quoted:
Fightlite SCR w/ 1100 wood stock.

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Exactly.

Posted: 3/15/2017 3:42:27 PM EDT

[#7]

OP what sights and optic setup are you currently using?

Posted: 3/15/2017 4:19:51 PM EDT

[#8]

Of course, the ultimate wooden AR by Orion's Hammer:

http://www.weaponeer.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8035

Posted: 3/15/2017 4:49:28 PM EDT

[#9]

I am building a A2 with presentation grade walnut

I have had the blank for around 20 years and got it when a older family member passed away and they had it for years before I got it so its nice and dried.

I am in talks with the stock maker on how I want the buttstock to be and the forend is going to be A1 style

I am going for a gloss finish on it and I am trying to decide on how to finish the metal, I am thinking a nice gloss black

The wood blank is just the right size for it as it is too small for a normal full stocked rifle

Posted: 3/15/2017 5:09:10 PM EDT

[#10]

Quote History

Quoted: I am building a A2 with presentation grade walnut

I have had the blank for around 20 years and got it when a older family member passed away and they had it for years before I got it so its nice and dried.

I am in talks with the stock maker on how I want the buttstock to be and the forend is going to be A1 style

I am going for a gloss finish on it and I am trying to decide on how to finish the metal, I am thinking a nice gloss black

The wood blank is just the right size for it as it is too small for a normal full stocked rifle

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Very interested in who you're getting to drill the buffer tube hole.

Posted: 3/15/2017 6:25:08 PM EDT

[#11]

Carbine handguard, Would be nice if they could make a FF'g wood handguard

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17352572_10208804346254617_1465776239124039206_n.jpg?oh=a703fd1628d2341f8ba7fdc4b46d93e5&oe=596D646E

Posted: 3/15/2017 10:46:46 PM EDT

[#12]

Quote History

Quoted:
Carbine handguard, Would be nice if they could make a FF'g wood handguard

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You could get a National Match Free Float Barrel Sleeve (drill some holes to reduce weight) and then mount the non-FF wood handguard on it.

Posted: 3/16/2017 2:10:02 AM EDT

[#13]

Quote History

Quoted:
OP what sights and optic setup are you currently using?

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Do you have a good suggestion for me?
I am using either a Tasco red dot or the S&W stock flip-up rear sight, and the factory A-2 front sight.
I borrowed an S&W from a friend, which had a simple scope, and I had the same issue. I was rubbing the buffer tube with my eye socket to get the sight picture.

I am considering mounting a scope on high-rise picatinny mounts, but would always like to be able to use factory iron sights.

If I did a wood stock, I would want to have as much covered as possible, with the A-2 sticking up out of the wood. Traditional Monte Carlo stock goes all the way out to the end of the barrel.

Posted: 3/16/2017 12:25:37 PM EDT

[#14]

Run a low-profile gas block @ the carbine, mid-gas, or rifle locations, depending on bbl length. Pin an A2 sight @ the muzzle. Have a probable Bushmaster dissapator 16" bbl like that.

Posted: 3/16/2017 1:53:42 PM EDT

[#15]

Quote History

Quoted:

You could get a National Match Free Float Barrel Sleeve (drill some holes to reduce weight) and then mount the non-FF would handguard on it.

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There's rifle length and I think WOA still makes midlength.

Posted: 3/16/2017 7:56:37 PM EDT

[#16]

You have to relieve a lot of wood from the inside of the forend to make it fit around a free float tube. I did this on a Rock River stock set and the wood in the bottom of the flutes is very thin, not more than 1/16 inch in the front section of the forend.

I also did an AA fancy Konrad set on a .458 SOCOM. It needed some wood removed also as well as quite a bit of Acra-Glass reinforcement around the gas block and front end. The problem in my case was I had to hide a midlength gas block under a wooden rifle length forend. Obviously it is not free floated.

Posted: 3/16/2017 9:08:33 PM EDT

[#17]

Pretty rifles.

How is the mid-gas working out in the .458"?

Posted: 3/17/2017 12:01:17 PM EDT

[#18]

Since it has a 20" barrel, we could not go CAR length. When new, it would not function with the fast powders like H110 so I had to use the slower Re#7. The longer barrel got me the same velocities with Re#7 and 20" as I get with H110 and a 13" barrel. After the rifle had 500-600 rounds through it, it started functioning just fine with the H110 loads, but the longer barrel did not give me an increase in velocity over the 13" barrel. While the 20" is functioning with H110 now, IMO it is operating right on the edge.

That is why I never recommend a midlength gas with the .458S. On shorter barrels you lose velocity by having to use slower powders and with a longer barrel and slower powders, while you may regain the lost velocity, you do at the expense of a longer barrel and yet not gain any velocity if you can use faster powders once things smooth out.

Posted: 3/17/2017 12:26:15 PM EDT

[#19]

Given I'd taken your advice on my brother's Rock River upper, I was pretty shocked to find you had a mid-gas. Nice to know your advice is from experience.

Posted: 3/17/2017 11:55:03 PM EDT

[#20]

disregard

Posted: 3/18/2017 4:45:17 PM EDT

[#21]

Quote History

Quoted:
You have to relieve a lot of wood from the inside of the forend to make it fit around a free float tube. I did this on a Rock River stock set and the wood in the bottom of the flutes is very thin, not more than 1/16 inch in the front section of the forend.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/BiggBore/All%20ARs/556-Woody-4-web.jpg

I also did an AA fancy Konrad set on a .458 SOCOM. It needed some wood removed also as well as quite a bit of Acra-Glass reinforcement around the gas block and front end. The problem in my case was I had to hide a midlength gas block under a wooden rifle length forend. Obviously it is not free floated.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/BiggBore/All%20ARs/458-woody-web-2.jpg

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Those are a couple beauties!

Posted: 3/19/2017 2:50:02 AM EDT

[#22]

Quote History

Quoted:

Do you have a good suggestion for me?
I am using either a Tasco red dot or the S&W stock flip-up rear sight, and the factory A-2 front sight.
I borrowed an S&W from a friend, which had a simple scope, and I had the same issue. I was rubbing the buffer tube with my eye socket to get the sight picture.

I am considering mounting a scope on high-rise picatinny mounts, but would always like to be able to use factory iron sights.

If I did a wood stock, I would want to have as much covered as possible, with the A-2 sticking up out of the wood. Traditional Monte Carlo stock goes all the way out to the end of the barrel.

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
OP what sights and optic setup are you currently using?

Do you have a good suggestion for me?
I am using either a Tasco red dot or the S&W stock flip-up rear sight, and the factory A-2 front sight.
I borrowed an S&W from a friend, which had a simple scope, and I had the same issue. I was rubbing the buffer tube with my eye socket to get the sight picture.

I am considering mounting a scope on high-rise picatinny mounts, but would always like to be able to use factory iron sights.

If I did a wood stock, I would want to have as much covered as possible, with the A-2 sticking up out of the wood. Traditional Monte Carlo stock goes all the way out to the end of the barrel.

You may need a slightly higher mount for your red dot and you are definitely going to want a raised scope mount if you go with a scope. I have found that I have the upper portion of my cheek on the buttstock when shooting with irons and that may be something you have to get used to because with the stock buffer tube design you won't get the stock any lower unless you with with something along the lines of an Ares SCR lower.

Posted: 3/20/2017 4:22:40 PM EDT

[#23]

Here is a source...
Brownells has some, but only laminate.

Posted: 3/22/2017 2:46:19 PM EDT

[#24]

You need to raise the optic so the optic's center line is the same height as the iron sights. The solution is a quick detach optic mount and a back up iron sight.

I use a Burris P.E.P.R QD mount for a Nikon 2-7 scope and a Matech back up rear iron sight that fits behind the P.E.P.R. mount.

If the optic fails or I want to use irons, I just flip the latches on the P.E.P.R. mount, remove it and flip up the Matech rear iron sight.

You can also mount a red dot type sight which will "co-witness" with irons like the Vortex Strike Fire so you don't have to remove the red dot to use the irons.