Do not own any yet but would like to get some tools to change barrels, handguards, muzzle device,s.  I have looked at the brownells 7 piece set with upper receiver vice block, lower vice block wrench, magpul looks like it is only a 2 pice set, then there looks like a steel rod with splines that goes in a vice for barrel swaps.  The last  one looks the strongest but does it have limitations on what service can be performed?  I would like a versatile set of tools but I have seen posts where people damage upper receivers when trying to unscrew a stock barrel that is loctited from the factory, same when removing a muzzle device from the factory twisting of the gas tube maybe.  I am just learning but would only like to buy the right tools once.

Barrel clamp isn't very expensive. Yes, there are many many people that have had no problems using an upper receiver block, and the few that have had problems putting that much stress on the extension pin and upper. Why not just eliminate the issue and get the right tool? That way it's not an issue.

Vice and reaction rod.

A solid bench and vice are a minimum.  
I'm very happy with the Magpul BEV Block and the Geissele Reaction rod I own.  Of the two I'm using the BEV block more often (and it was half the cost!).
Seen some issues with the pin only and clamshell holding methods.  I'd rather apply torque to the steel barrel extension than the aluminum receiver threads or pivot/takedown mounts.  I very rarely need to use barrel blocks anymore now that I'm holding the barrel extension stationary.

i really like my bev block.  money well spent.

Reaction Rods are are not good, so says ADCO and Ken Elmore.

Barrel blocks for muzzle devise installation/removal and clamshell upper receiver vise blocks for barrel installation/removal.

2UniqueLLC has the best barrel wrenches out there.

So would I be able to remove a muzzle device with bev blocks or could I run into gas tube problems?
What is it that I should not do with bev blocks?

Get the BEV block, but for muzzle devices the only proper way is to use barrel V blocks which are cheap,maybe $10.

Clamshells may or may not fit your particular receiver you are working on at the time. Unless it is mil-spec forged, and you never work with any other type of receiver. There is no specified outer dimensions for a billet receiver, so fitting those in a clamshell could be hit or miss. A better solution would be a two piece receiver block like the $12 plastixrevolution set, which combined with a $10 set of barrel blocks can be had all together for less than half the price of any of those tools that anchor into the barrel extension. Those trendy spline tools are significantly more expensive and don't do anything that you are wanting to do any better. In some cases, they can actually be worse.

BEV block, reaction rod, and Brownell's spline wrench are OK for muzzle device installs, gas block, etc. and for holding the receiver in place to attach other stuff like handguards, rails, and accessories. But they are significantly expensive compared to simple barrel blocks. For barrel nut removal and installation, those fancy, trendy, wizz-bang spline key tools, such as the Reaction Rod are even more expensive. While they may work from time to time, they have been attributed to damaged receivers, shorn index pins, and at best a misaligned barrel that is rotated just far enough off from index so that the bolt doesn't align easily. Don't take my word for it. Just go ask your favorite search engine. Even Geissele has revised the Reaction Rod, acknowledging that this damage was attributed to the original reaction rod. Their "improvement" doesn't exactly comfort me, either, being small focus points for torqueing force to be applied between the tool and receiver. Especially looking at it's price tag, I'll pass!

If you're applying torque to the barrel, such as when removing or installing muzzle devices, you want the barrel locked in place, either between blocks in the vise jaws (a lot less money, here), or with splines into the extension such as the BEV block, reaction rod, or similar (Significantly more expensive).

My personal recommendation is a short piece of 2x4 lumber, unless you plan on opening up a shop and doing this kind of stuff on a daily basis. An entire 10ft piece of 2x4 should cost you less than $5, and that's if you don't already have a scrap piece just laying around somewhere. If you want to get fancy with the wood, cut/file a small channel in one side like that two piece receiver block set I mentioned above has for the flat top rail to align into. and drill spots for the takedown lugs on the other half. To make barrel blocks with the 2x4, squeeze them together in the vice, and drill a hole the size of your barrel OD centered between the pieces. Drill across the grain, and don't drill much smaller than the barrel dimension or the blocks will split. If the hole ends up too big and you can't get good grip on the barrel, simply sand down the face of one of the blocks a tiny bit.

I recommend you make your own barrel blocks from a plain piece of pine 2x4.  Be sure to drill the hole across the grain, otherwise it will crack when gripped in in your vise.  An 11/16" hole saw is about right for the typical .740" forward section of barrel.  Its a good idea to remove your unpinned muzzle device occasionally to clean off accumulated fouling from the barrel crown.  That's when you appreciate a handguard that does not extend all the way to the muzzle. - CW

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