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Posted: 8/12/2016 11:21:16 PM EDT
[#1]
You need a video? They are pretty simple to do.
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Posted: 8/12/2016 11:31:01 PM EDT
[#2]
Nothing to it. Unless you're tig welding, cover up everything you don't want covered in spatter. Otherwise, yeah, I get it, it can be a little intimidating the first time, but after that, you will spend far more time looking for something else to weld while you have a everything out and at the ready.
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Posted: 8/12/2016 11:42:16 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You need a video? They are pretty simple to do. helpful 
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Posted: 8/12/2016 11:44:20 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nothing to it. Unless you're tig welding, cover up everything you don't want covered in spatter. Otherwise, yeah, I get it, it can be a little intimidating the first time, but after that, you will spend far more time looking for something else to weld while you have a everything out and at the ready. Yes it is with a TIG, thanks for the tip. I don't plan to do it myself... my coworker is a car guy and has all the tools, but not familiar with this process. Was trying to make it easy for him. |
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Posted: 8/13/2016 6:35:44 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
helpful Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You need a video? They are pretty simple to do. helpful Wasn't meant to be helpful, it was honest, set the depth on your chosen tool, drill the hole, drop the pin and then hit it with a small tack of weld, clean up with a file and then cold blue, pretty simple process. |
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Posted: 8/13/2016 10:20:08 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
... you will spend far more time looking for something else to weld while you have a everything out and at the ready. This is the problem I have when the welder comes out 
I have a small MIG and as others mentioned, cover what you don't want spattered... which means everything beside the spot to be spot weld. I like to leave the weld proud to the surface as proof of weld and position it underneath the barrel. If you need to remove, its easier to do too. |
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Posted: 8/16/2016 11:43:03 AM EDT
[#7]
if using a TIG, do you need filler metal?
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Posted: 8/16/2016 12:06:26 PM EDT
[#8]
High temp silver solder is also an option to pin the barrel.
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Posted: 8/16/2016 12:12:52 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
if using a TIG, do you need filler metal? I'd suppose so. You might have to add to the puddle. |
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Posted: 8/16/2016 1:46:40 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is the problem I have when the welder comes out I have a small MIG and as others mentioned, cover what you don't want spattered... which means everything beside the spot to be spot weld. I like to leave the weld proud to the surface as proof of weld and position it underneath the barrel. If you need to remove, its easier to do too. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: ... you will spend far more time looking for something else to weld while you have a everything out and at the ready. This is the problem I have when the welder comes out I have a small MIG and as others mentioned, cover what you don't want spattered... which means everything beside the spot to be spot weld. I like to leave the weld proud to the surface as proof of weld and position it underneath the barrel. If you need to remove, its easier to do too.  I used duct tape. |
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Posted: 8/16/2016 5:11:08 PM EDT
[#11]
Did my 14.5 with an extended A2 from the Online Store. Drilled the 6:00 hole for a 6/32 thread, installed A2 with crush washer, drilled a dimple in the barrel, installed a allow set screw with dog point in barrel, cut off extra set screw and hit the top with weld.
Use tin foil to protect from splatter. |
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Posted: 8/16/2016 5:17:23 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
High temp silver solder is also an option to pin the barrel. This is not a pinning method. It is a legit way to install a muzzle device by silver soldering the thread joint with High Temp silver solder. No pin required. Silver solder should not be used to cover a pin, Spec says weld witch silver solder is not. |
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Posted: 8/16/2016 6:20:34 PM EDT
[#13]
Not even worth worrying or arguing about again, it has been done many times here.
I just really don't understand why it is so confusing when it comes to permanently attaching a muzzle device. It is one of the easier things we do on AR's!
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Posted: 8/16/2016 11:55:02 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not even worth worrying or arguing about again, it has been done many times here. I just really don't understand why it is so confusing when it comes to permanently attaching a muzzle device. It is one of the easier things we do on AR's!
Good point. I think it's because it is an operation that both requires more than hand tools(a welder), some basic skill, and is a procedure that is not done often enough by most to gain that comfort level you speak of. I'm working up to it but have had both of my 14.5's done by a local shop. |
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Posted: 8/17/2016 12:01:16 AM EDT
[#15]
I drilled the FH
screwed it on drilled though the threads of barrel (only) with a 1/8" bit, using the FH as a guide. Flipped the drill bit around in the drill and touched it to a grinder, giving it the same angle at the cutting end. stuck the non cutting end into the hole and marked it, pulled it out and cut it off. Stuck it back in, trim to final length, and weld it. Do everything but the welding, and that would make it easy for him. If the pin goes in as deep as the root diameter of the threads on the barrel, its not going anywhere without shearing the pin and destroying the threads to get off. If you drill into the barrel threads, tell you have no threads showing, your slightly deeper anyway because of the point of the drill. This is why I ground the bit to match the cutting angle. It may have taken me longer to type this out with my 2 fingers than to do it. 
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Posted: 8/23/2016 9:42:15 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I drilled the FH screwed it on drilled though the threads of barrel (only) with a 1/8" bit, using the FH as a guide. Flipped the drill bit around in the drill and touched it to a grinder, giving it the same angle at the cutting end. stuck the non cutting end into the hole and marked it, pulled it out and cut it off. Stuck it back in, trim to final length, and weld it. Do everything but the welding, and that would make it easy for him. If the pin goes in as deep as the root diameter of the threads on the barrel, its not going anywhere without shearing the pin and destroying the threads to get off. If you drill into the barrel threads, tell you have no threads showing, your slightly deeper anyway because of the point of the drill. This is why I ground the bit to match the cutting angle. It may have taken me longer to type this out with my 2 fingers than to do it.
you just talked me into doing mine myself at the shop... |
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Posted: 8/23/2016 10:01:48 PM EDT
[#17]
Filler metal? Tig?
Yes, just a bit. Enough to make a slight convex puddle. You dont want an ugly crater (shitty pothole). I take a fine flat file to mine just to touch it up a bit then tape everything off except that spot and hit it with high temp stove paint. Blends right in. |
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Posted: 8/24/2016 6:56:00 PM EDT
[#18]
I tig welded mine. very small amount of filler. Mostly just let the brake get hot and pool in around the pin, then hit it with the filler. Probably didn't take 2 minutes.
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Posted: 9/7/2016 8:15:06 PM EDT
[#19]
Does anyone know if the SilencerCo ASR Muzzle Brake is parkerized, and if so, how do you ground it for TIG welding? Also, how many AMPS are needed?
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Posted: 9/7/2016 9:52:32 PM EDT
[#20]
Don't go crazy with the drill just dimple the barrel. You don't have to drill more than 1/16" ish. You can use a cut piece of hanger as the pin.
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Posted: 9/7/2016 11:14:16 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Does anyone know if the SilencerCo ASR Muzzle Brake is parkerized, and if so, how do you ground it for TIG welding? Also, how many AMPS are needed? Dont know about ASR mb, but I use BCM A2Xs and they are parked. I set my heat at 200, but I run a little hot. I put my ground clamp right on the flash hider, make sure its secure or itll throw an arc and possibly smoke your device with a nasty arc strike. Its easy, dont sweat the details OP. |
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Posted: 9/11/2016 6:21:25 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Does anyone know if the SilencerCo ASR Muzzle Brake is parkerized, and if so, how do you ground it for TIG welding? Also, how many AMPS are needed? When someone starts TIG welding they start out at max amps (I do anyway) then ramp down to what they are welding, it will take about half a second to burn in the pin. You don't need filler rod for this. It's not hard to do. Clamp the ground to the barrel and TIG it up. |
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Posted: 9/11/2016 9:23:17 PM EDT
[#23]
I usually pick up the short end throw aways from the stick welder. Most of em are 6013 or some other mild steel rod, but I haven't noticed any of them making a difference one way or the other. They make good pins as they are quality alloys and being free is just a bonus.
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