Just doing some research has anyone used the Dremel Router attachment on the 80% router jig?

There are a few videos on YouTube out there using the Dremel.

Could you do it with one, sure.  Though a trim router is going to be a lot easier to control and safer because of it.  

and a full size router would be a step about the trim router

Why would you say that?

Not in this particular instance, the current systems on the market were designed to be used with the smaller bodied routers, they are much easier to control and get the results you are looking for.

I have an 80% Arms jig, I've used 3 different trims routers and 1 full size router, I've completed a dozen or more forged and billet lowers. The full size router is by far a step above the trim routers.

Then you are buying the wrong trim routers.

I'm still waiting to hear what you base this on. Exactly what advantage do you feel that you get by using full sized router over a trim router?

hi, just wanted to say I plan on using a trim router but on a polymer lower, would the trim router work on a forged lower as well???

Yes and it already has for many people, there are numerous threads about people on here building their 80% lowers with the smaller routers, just do some looking around.

I just finished milling 2 80% lowers with the jig from 80-lower.com (I think this is the same as the 80% arms jig). I did most of the work on the two lowers with a Rigid 5.5 AMP trim router (http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-5-5-Amp-Corded-Compact-Router-R24012/100337039) but it ended up burning out. Even with very very small depth increases this router was very jumpy and took a lot of work to move around because of that in my opinion. When this burned out I switched to my Ryobi full sized router (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-8-5-Amp-1-1-2-Peak-HP-Router-R1631K/206757945) to finish out my second lower and let me tell you - I wish I had been using it the whole time. The milling process felt much smoother and the router wasn't jumpy at all with the same small depth increments. I would guess this has to do with having more mass to move around with the router. It was also more ergonomical and comfortable than my trim router (which starting getting too hot to hold after each pass as it reached the end of it's life). I will say though with the jig I used I had to add an extra spacer to accommodate the full sized router when milling the trigger slot on the second lower. For some reason I had some trouble in this step and the trigger slot looks like it is just barely not parallel with the rest of the lower. It didn't impact the intstallation or function of the LPK but I think it might have had to do with the longer shank end mill due to the spacer (and I might of gotten impatient and took too large a bite with the end mill).

Hope my experience helps a bit.

By the way if you're looking for a trim router for something other than an 80 lower I'd recommend that Rigid... I'm pretty bummed mine broke...

I have a mill and I still want to try the router route just to do it.  Apparently I have a problem.

I wouldn't want to use either of the two full size routers I have...  One is a Bosch and the other is an older Craftsman (back when they still made decent stuff).  They are both heavy, cumbersome and I'm not sure how well they'd work on the relatively small platforms that any of the jigs have.  They've got more power, sure, but they almost have too much.  You can really feel it when that Craftsman kicks on.  By comparison the Makita trim router I need has plenty of power and is light and conveniently allows for precise work.

I've got the Modulus HD jig and I've done several each forged and billet lowers with a Makita trim router and no problems at all.

Yes, if you buy one of the recommended routers you will have no problem on a forged or billet aluminum lower.  Just don't buy one of the cheap low power ones like the Harbor Freight or Grizzly $29 units.

Done with a Porter Cable laminate trimmer.

The extra HP and the handles on each side of the full size router for starters.

Exactly what advantage do you feel that you get by using a trim router over the full size?

So I've used both, I'd like to hear from those who have too, not just those who use the trim router because A and B jig makers says too

The router that I use (Ridgid R24012) is one and a half HP, more than enough to do the job. I also have a Sieg X2 mini mill which is only 4/5 of a HP, even this is more than enough HP to finish off these lowers.

It is much easier to see what you are doing in the FCG pocket with the smaller diameter router. Also you can keep more of the router engaged with the top of the jig.
If you like using a full sized router, that is terrific, but to say that it is a better choice than a trim router is incorrect.

As most members who frequent this BIY section know, I am the tech rep for Modulus arms. I spend 8 hours a day, 5 days a week working closely with folks who are doing 80% builds. In general they have much better success using a trim router over a full size.

The Ridgid R24012 has a lifetime warranty. That is another of the reasons I always recommend this router. You may have just got a bad one. Mine has many builds under its belt and is still going strong. I have had hundreds of customers purchasing this router based on my recommendation, yours is the first one I've heard of that crapped out. Overall customers like it very much.

It actually runs smoothly if you get into the sweet spot where router speed, feed speed, depth of cut all come together

I have a Makita trim router (the Rigid was out of stock at the Home Depot when I got mine) and it seems like a solid bit of gear so far.  About the only thing that could make it better would be if it had a light that shined down into the work area.  I looked at the Rigid last time I was at Home Depot and it seems like a nice unit also.  I have a Rigid cordless drill and cordless screwdriver combo set which is very nice.  Rigid seems to build pretty decent quality tools.

The only way I could see burning out one of these trim routers is if it was either faulty to begin with or someone running it at the wrong speed, trying to feed too fast or trying to take too deep of cuts or something.  It takes some people a while to get the hang of it though from what one of my friends tells me.  He has done lowers himself but one his friends has broken two end mill bits so far because he gets impatient and tries to force it and gets into chattering and then breaks the bit.  Even at that he hasn't burnt out his trim router and he has the same model Makita that I do.

I've done two lowers with the Makita router (one forged, one poly) and my only gripe is that the base gets pretty hot after a while (the whole thing is aluminum). Other than that, it works great.

I've noticed my Makita router getting warm, but I wouldn't say too hot to handle.  I've done several forged, several billet and one poly lower with it.  What kind of cutting fluid are you using?  I've been using CRC thread cutting fluid.  It may not be the perfect thing for milling but it seems to do O.K.  I also usually take a while between each pass when I am checking and re-setting the depth.  Also are you doing all the 3/8" holes or doing the 1 hole method?  I've really only noticed a significant heat up when I was doing the 1 hole method.  I was doing that for a couple lowers before I got the Speed Drill Kit because it saves a bunch of time only drilling the one hole all the way through the trigger slot instead of drilling all the 3/8" holes...  but with the Speed Drill Kit that time savings is pretty much moot.

Oatey Clear Thread Cutting Oil, economical, works well.

 

Brother, Its nice to see your helping others, I for one appreciate it.
You'll never ever convince me that a trim router like the Ridged R24012  is better then the Ridgid R22002. I used two of the R24012 and the Dewalt that everybody seems to think is great. They both failed me miserably.
The reason they have better success is because you guys push the cheaper routers, you and 80% (sorry Alan) have the mind set that cheaper sells so we're going to push these little routers to do something they aren't made to do. I'll never get it,  

Well I have to say, after the last 24 hours looking at this thread, it is never going to go anywhere productive again.

Why would a company that has no financial stake, push something to work with their product that they have nothing to gain?

Getting back to the original post, yes, you can do one with a dremel, it is going to be more difficult, it is going to take more time, than the other options out there..

But take some time read through the various threads, and look at how many have been successful with the recommended routers and how many have not, that will tell you all you need to know.

thanks, I plan on using a router I found on the harbor freight web site    http://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-24-amp-trim-router-61626.html
on a polymer 80 lower I already have 1.3" of the pocket done using an end mill but had to stop and no longer have access to the endmill. it should get the job done, besides I messed up the lower some so its a practice lower filled in my mistake with some JB weld turned out pretty good so I could finish the lower.

I was referring too this one https://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachments/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=335-01

I have had one of these for close to 10 years now, I used it once on some cabinet work with soft wood, then put it back in the box and bought a real router, it is just not heavy duty enough.  Now if you want one, you pay for shipping and I will send it to you.

A lot of guys do them with the recommended router, I would not try to use my dremels for more than clean up work.

One other thing I am going to bring up here, dremel tools are great little tools and they do a lot.  One thing you really have to pay attention to, is vibration damage to the nerves in your hand using these small tools, not something you think about when younger, but as you get older, you will find that it does come back to plague your hands,  These days, after shooting guns all my life as well as working with a lot of hand tools, most days, my hands are numb and the Doc, simply stated you didn't take precautions when you were younger and you have vibration nerved damage and there is nothing we can do.

So think about what you are trying to accomplish and think about what the cost may be.

From this thread http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/687466_Router_Information_for_Finishing_80__Lower_Receivers.html


Recommended Routers:

Dewalt DWP611 This is out favorite router. This is a very rugged and quality unit. It is a mostly metal construction with a big base size. It is variable speed and has an LED light. It is a good purchase but on the higher price point from $120-$140.Link

Craftsman 28212 This router has a powerful 1.25 HP motor. The base size of the router is a little small but it comes with an attachment with two handles for added control. Can be purchased at Sears for $90. Link

Ridgid R24012 This router has a powerful 1.5 HP motor. The base size is smaller than the above but it still a good router. It is a little more flimsy than some of the other recommended routers. It can be found for $80-$100. Link

Makita RT0701C This is a quality and powerful router. It has a 1.25 Hp motor and a mostly metal construction. It is a good purchase for $90-$100. Link

Porter Cable PCE6435 This is a quality router. It has a normal sized base and a pretty powerful motor. It doesn't feel as sturdy or as stable as its bigger brother the Porter Cable 450 and costs the same. It can be bought for $120-$130. Link

Dewalt D26670 This is a good router. It is a little less powerful than the others but still quality. It has been discontinued and can be hard to find.

Porter Cable 7310 This is the same router as the Dewalt D26670. It is a good router but a little less powerful than the others. it has been discontinued and can be hard to find.



Not Recommended Routers:

Harbor Freight and Black And Decker Routers. All the Harbor Freight and Black and Decker Routers we have found are all junk. The spindles don't run true. Some of them are not variable speed and the overall quality is bad. These are typically labeled as DrillMaster, Chicago Electric and Black and Decker. We do not recommend them but you could use one if you were so inclined.

Dewalt DWE6000 This is a flimsy router with a mostly plastic construction. While all the recommended routers have metal bases this one is all plastic. If you were going to purchase a router for this price you should get one of the recommended ones instead. It costs $100. Link

Porter Cable PCE6430 This is actually a pretty decent router. There isn't anything wrong with it and it is very similar to the recommended Porter Cable PCE6435. The reason for not recommending is that it is not variable speed and it is less powerful. This will work if you want to save a few dollars but for the same money I would buy the Makita RT0701C. Cost is $90-$100. Link

Bosch PR20EVSK People are surprised when we do not recommended a Bosch tool. This is a quality router with a good sized base but it has a couple of drawbacks. The depth adjustment is a little weird and if you do not do it correctly the height can slip. It also has a tendency to let the router slip in the collet. We used to recommend this but based on customer complaints and problems we don't anymore. Cost $110. Link

Bosch PR10EV This looks identical to the Bosch PR20EVSK and has the same drawbacks of slipping end mills and poor height adjustment. It also does not have variable speed which is why it is cheaper than the PR20EVSK. Cost $100. Link

Porter Cable PC450 This is very rugged and feels study in your hands. Has a large base size. The reason it is not recommended is that it is not variable speed. It is very similar to the Dewalt DWP611 but isn't variable speed and doesn't have an LED light. Can be found from $100-$120 Link

Full Size Routers Many people use full size routers but we do not recommend them if you are purchasing a router to do this work. They are more powerful than necessary and can be large and cumbersome making them harder to control. Many of them are also not variable speed. Full size routers also come with a 3/8" chuck instead of a 1/4" chuck that is needed for the end mill we sell. You need to purchase a 1/4" collet to use a full size router.