Hello, I'd like to complete a Tactical Machining 80% lower receiver. I've been watching videos and I think I'd prefer doing it with a router vs a milling machine, due to ease and cost. Can anyone recommend a jig and router that you have successfully used? Also, if possible, a link to a video using that particular jig?

thanks,
swampie

HD Jig

Instructions and videos

Thanks, Is the Modulus better/easier than the easy jig by 80% Arms?

Also, am I making the right choice by going the router route?

thanks,
swampie

I have the Modulus HD jig.  I think it is slightly better than the 80% Arms Easy Jig because it has the steel side and top plates.  But even better than that the people from Modulus are active on the forum giving advice, tech support, etc.

I think the router is the best way to go unless you can justify buying a milling machine, have a place to put one, etc.  I don't like the idea of milling in a drill press much. If you don't already have a drill press or room for one, the router based system is far less expensive and takes up almost no room.  You can easily complete lowers with the Modulus HD jig and only their bit set (and I would recommend their speed drill kit as well) a $100 trim router, a $30 corded hand drill (or a decent cordless 18V or better) and a 4" or 5" drill press vice plus a couple of C clamps to hold it down to a table.  Your total tooling budget would be less than a decent drill press and a lot less than an end mill and all the tools will fit in a tool box or a drawer when you aren't using them.

My review of it is on here as well as linked from the sale page.

It's so easy a 11B like me could do it.

I use an easy jig. It works good. Im happy. Id say a slight edge to modulus. Both companies have excelent customer service. I have an easy jig and modulus lowers.

If you have a drill press already so much better but not needed. I have a laser guided drill press and it makes it incredibly simple

OK Thanks all.

swampie

Check local pawnshops. My local pawn shop had(s)like 10 different kinds of routers. I ended up doing a trade for a new in box cheap blueray player for a porter cable. Just stick with known brands bosh dewalt porter cable. I enjoy milling my own. It gives me a reason to hang in the garage and play with my tools. Any questions hit me up.

I have both the 80% Arms and the Modulus HD jig sets. I like them both and the only advantage to the Modulus is that the inserts are steel. Both offer individual replacement parts. Both create a really nice lower if you take your time and follow the instructions. Drill the safety and FCG holes first not matter which jig you use. A drill press is really nice to have when doing the FCG pocket drilling/ material removal, as it reduces the liklihood of the drill bit walking around.
Good luck.

I'm going to attempt my first 80% lower this weekend with the Modulus jig; I'm trying to study everything I can find so I hopefully don't jack my lower up too much.  Why do you drill the safety and FCG holes first?

Most of the instructions recommend doing the FCG and safety holes last.  That said, I think you could probably do it either way and be successful and I'd probably follow the directions for whatever jig i was using.

Yes sir, I understand.  I've just seen several posts saying to do all of that first (despite what instructions say) but I haven't seen any explanation as to why.  I was just wondering why some people have recommended that.

Does anyone ever rent or loan their jig out? Maybe even sell it after use?

swampie

Precisely, Why drill though over 3/4" of material and risk wandering, when you really only need to go through @ .090?
This is also why we recommend drilling from both sides, rather than straight through.

I realize what the instruction say for both and the reason i drill first is that the edges will have burrs on the inside when drilled last. If drilled first from both sides the burs are removed by the end mill during the milling process. This has been my observation for the last 5 I have done.

Deburring the holes seems like less of an issue than the possibility of bit wandering, but as I said before, I think it can be successfully done either way.

Only change I made to the modulus instructions was to do all the drilling of the fire control pocket first.

I have the original jig and it says to drill and mill the trigger hole first, then finish the drilling on the fire control pocket.  Not sure why they want that but it adds an extra reconfigure step.