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Posted: 6/26/2016 4:13:03 PM EDT
[#1]
I just use two blocks of wood with a grove in them, and it works just fine.
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Posted: 6/26/2016 4:24:04 PM EDT
[#2]
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/scg-ar-15-m16-accu-grip-barrel-vise-jaws-prod12799.aspx
These are great, they don't work with pencil barrels though. |
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Posted: 6/26/2016 4:31:54 PM EDT
[#3]
My vise jaws are identical to the Brownell's jaws, though I got mine from a local vendor for about 2/3 the Brownell's price.
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Posted: 6/26/2016 4:56:13 PM EDT
[#4]
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Posted: 6/26/2016 5:01:37 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryWhat is the black liner inside the barrel channels? . |
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Posted: 6/26/2016 5:16:48 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is the black liner inside the barrel channels? Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is the black liner inside the barrel channels? It's to help prevent the barrel rotating. I have an older Brownells unit that's bare aluminum and it will allow the the barrel to rotate and in addition it leaves aluminum residue on the barrel |
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Posted: 6/26/2016 5:54:39 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's to help prevent the barrel rotating. I have an older Brownells unit that's bare aluminum and it will allow the the barrel to rotate and in addition it leaves aluminum residue on the barrel Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: What is the black liner inside the barrel channels? It's to help prevent the barrel rotating. I have an older Brownells unit that's bare aluminum and it will allow the the barrel to rotate and in addition it leaves aluminum residue on the barrel I should have been clearer. What material is the black liner made of. |
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Posted: 6/26/2016 6:36:17 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It is hard rubber. I have this clamp and it is very effective. I wrap the area of the barrel to be clamped by a few layers of painter's tape, and the clamp does not mar the barrel finish at all. I should have been clearer. What material is the black liner made of. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
What is the black liner inside the barrel channels? It's to help prevent the barrel rotating. I have an older Brownells unit that's bare aluminum and it will allow the the barrel to rotate and in addition it leaves aluminum residue on the barrel It is hard rubber. I have this clamp and it is very effective. I wrap the area of the barrel to be clamped by a few layers of painter's tape, and the clamp does not mar the barrel finish at all. I should have been clearer. What material is the black liner made of. |
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Posted: 6/26/2016 6:46:12 PM EDT
[#9]
I don't know what grippy material it is on Wheeler's blocks, but the similar product available from Brownell's lists their liner as "a space age polyurethane elastomer." Brownell's used to have one like that with their own brand, but I can't find it right now.
I use scraps of Dycem on my bare aluminum blocks, and that works really well. |
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Posted: 6/26/2016 9:23:56 PM EDT
[#10]
It's a urethane just like the description lists. I do not know what durometer it is though. Urethane is like a rubber but better. It does not break down as easily as rubber, chemical resistant to a lot more chemicals compared to rubber and the hardness/ softness stays consistent when compressed or stretched. Quote HistoryQuoted:
I should have been clearer. What material is the black liner made of. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
What is the black liner inside the barrel channels? It's to help prevent the barrel rotating. I have an older Brownells unit that's bare aluminum and it will allow the the barrel to rotate and in addition it leaves aluminum residue on the barrel I should have been clearer. What material is the black liner made of. |
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Posted: 6/27/2016 5:29:28 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just use two blocks of wood with a grove in them, and it works just fine. Tried, tested, and proven over and over and over again. Unless you're operating a professional shop where you expect to be using the block enough to actually wear out the wood, this is all you need. It isn't about the cost, either. If you're like most of us hobbyists, you already have tools taking up space more than you use them. Some of those have no suitable substitute. The wooden block works just as well as a purpose built vise block, it just isn't as durable. The wooden block can be repurposed into a door stop, given to the kids for a pinewood derby, or just tossed in the next fire or something. Then next year, or further down the road, when I "need" to work on another barrel, I can drill and cut another block of wood. 
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Posted: 6/27/2016 8:49:46 AM EDT
[#12]
Wood blocks are the way to go. An 11/16" hole (with hole saw) is about right for the typical .740" barrel forward of the gas block. Also, be sure to drill the hole across the grain of the wood to prevent cracking. An ordinary pine 2x4 is ideal material. - CW
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Posted: 6/27/2016 9:23:15 AM EDT
[#13]
Squirrel Daddy
I got sick of my wooden blocks cracking apart on the vise, probably because I was using old scrap lumber. What I have in my link has worked well for me, without any liner, and no scratches on the barrel, but I will say it is too long for an 18" barrel with rifle gas. I do have a bicycle inner-tube in case I need a liner, but I haven't had to cut it up yet. |
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Posted: 6/27/2016 12:51:27 PM EDT
[#14]
This seems like the thread to ask about how I install flash hiders. I do NOT use a barrel vise. What I do is:
Upper goes into regular clamshell Take bike inner tube and wrap it around barrel a few times Take a pair of these and grab around the inner tube with one hand: http://t0.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcQmzaHuiXAxEaln-KaZszmz6egWLjmoB-ZNcpVZ9EgDnAlippaJ&usqp=CAY .. while I install the flash hider with the other hand. Idea is that I apply [hopefully roughly equivalent] opposing force against the flash hider install force, and nothing injurious is transferred to the upper. In other words I am hopefully torquing against only the barrel held firmly with the pliers, not the upper in the clamshell. Seems to work for me but curious as to other's thoughts. p.s. I also usually sand down the crush washer to where it hand tightens to within 90-100 degrees of index |
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Posted: 6/27/2016 12:55:29 PM EDT
[#15]
Geissele Reaction Rod
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Posted: 6/27/2016 4:54:12 PM EDT
[#16]
With respect to my methodology below, does it seem possible that I could in fact "pinch" the barrel doing this?
I am doubting that I could crimp a barrel with a set of hand pliers even if I used both hands and all my weight, but WTF do I know? Thanks Quote HistoryQuoted:
This seems like the thread to ask about how I install flash hiders. I do NOT use a barrel vise. What I do is: Upper goes into regular clamshell Take bike inner tube and wrap it around barrel a few times Take a pair of these and grab around the inner tube with one hand: http://t0.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcQmzaHuiXAxEaln-KaZszmz6egWLjmoB-ZNcpVZ9EgDnAlippaJ&usqp=CAY .. while I install the flash hider with the other hand. Idea is that I apply [hopefully roughly equivalent] opposing force against the flash hider install force, and nothing injurious is transferred to the upper. In other words I am hopefully torquing against only the barrel held firmly with the pliers, not the upper in the clamshell. Seems to work for me but curious as to other's thoughts. p.s. I also usually sand down the crush washer to where it hand tightens to within 90-100 degrees of index |
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Posted: 6/27/2016 7:39:21 PM EDT
[#17]
You cannot, in any way, "crimp" or otherwise damage a barrel with a vise, and especially not with any aluminum or wooden vise blocks. Ain't gonna happen.
 . So if a vise isn't going to hurt the barrel, your large-arsed channel lock pliers aren't going to either.
But... If you used a barrel vise, you'd have both hands free to mess with the muzzle device. For a flash hider or other muzzle device, clamp the barrel just behind the muzzle. Wrapping the barrel in inner tube isn't a bad idea for vise jaw grip, by the way. For installing barrels, clam shells are a good second choice. It's always better to keep the biggest part locked down. You will hear a lot of discussion about how "holding the barrel in a vise is going to put stress on the index pin" or "on the upper." Neither of these arguments works, as far as I can tell; once you get the barrel nut hand tight, and assuming you're using some sort of grease on the threads, the barrel and the upper are locked together, and do not move relative to each other. Edited to fix stupid fat finger tricks. |
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Posted: 6/27/2016 8:02:25 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Geissele Reaction Rod |
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Posted: 6/27/2016 8:20:03 PM EDT
[#19]
I've been using my trusty barrel blocks made from some scrap wood I had (red oak maybe) for the last 10 years. Add a little rosin and they're g2g.
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Posted: 6/28/2016 12:06:33 AM EDT
[#20]
What I have is a recalcitrant flash hider. Most just twist right off, but not this one. Much too much not to have the barrel locked into something.
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Posted: 6/28/2016 10:16:56 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
snip snip snip... You will hear a lot of discussion about how "holding the barrel in a vise is going to put stress on the index pin" or "on the upper." Neither of these arguments works, as far as I can tell; once you get the barrel nut hand tight, and assuming you're using some sort of grease on the threads, the barrel and the upper are locked together, and do not move relative to each other. Edited to fix stupid fat finger tricks. BTW, it helps if you resist the temptation to use a FF handguard that extends right up to within a inch of muzzle. It may look good, but it leaves no room for the wood blocks. Four inches of exposed barrel is plenty. - CW |
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Posted: 6/28/2016 2:55:23 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Geissele Reaction Rod This |
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Posted: 6/28/2016 5:14:13 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've been reading this sub-forum for 5 years now. In that time, I've read numerous accounts of people who inadvertently sheared off their "index pin" by translating torque from their muzzle device to the barrel/receiver interface. ADCO even has a routine shop service for replacing damaged pins for people in this predicament. Use common sense and, when cranking on a muzzle device, clamp that barrel tightly in your bench vise. BTW, it helps if you resist the temptation to use a FF handguard that extends right up to within a inch of muzzle. It may look good, but it leaves no room for the wood blocks. Four inches of exposed barrel is plenty. - CW Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
snip snip snip... You will hear a lot of discussion about how "holding the barrel in a vise is going to put stress on the index pin" or "on the upper." Neither of these arguments works, as far as I can tell; once you get the barrel nut hand tight, and assuming you're using some sort of grease on the threads, the barrel and the upper are locked together, and do not move relative to each other. Edited to fix stupid fat finger tricks. BTW, it helps if you resist the temptation to use a FF handguard that extends right up to within a inch of muzzle. It may look good, but it leaves no room for the wood blocks. Four inches of exposed barrel is plenty. - CW You can install the barrel nut, gas block, muzzle device, and then the FF hand guard, in that order. All of my hand guards have easily fit over the muzzle device, after they were torqued down. |
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Posted: 6/29/2016 5:48:30 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:I got sick of my wooden blocks cracking apart on the vise, probably because I was using old scrap lumber. |
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Posted: 6/29/2016 9:43:24 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
...snip... You can install the barrel nut, gas block, muzzle device, and then the FF hand guard, in that order. All of my hand guards have easily fit over the muzzle device, after they were torqued down. IMO a crown covered by a muzzle device should be cleaned every few hundred rounds. If you have been firing your rifle and haven't removed your MD in a long time, check out the corrosion that inevitably occurs. The worst of it happens when ammonia-based solvents are used and seep into the accumulated carbon fouling there. Even so-called stainless steel is not immune. - CW |
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Posted: 6/29/2016 12:49:53 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Tried, tested, and proven over and over and over again. Unless you're operating a professional shop where you expect to be using the block enough to actually wear out the wood, this is all you need. It isn't about the cost, either. If you're like most of us hobbyists, you already have tools taking up space more than you use them. Some of those have no suitable substitute. The wooden block works just as well as a purpose built vise block, it just isn't as durable. The wooden block can be repurposed into a door stop, given to the kids for a pinewood derby, or just tossed in the next fire or something. Then next year, or further down the road, when I "need" to work on another barrel, I can drill and cut another block of wood. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I just use two blocks of wood with a grove in them, and it works just fine. Tried, tested, and proven over and over and over again. Unless you're operating a professional shop where you expect to be using the block enough to actually wear out the wood, this is all you need. It isn't about the cost, either. If you're like most of us hobbyists, you already have tools taking up space more than you use them. Some of those have no suitable substitute. The wooden block works just as well as a purpose built vise block, it just isn't as durable. The wooden block can be repurposed into a door stop, given to the kids for a pinewood derby, or just tossed in the next fire or something. Then next year, or further down the road, when I "need" to work on another barrel, I can drill and cut another block of wood. 
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