Looking for help/advice on disassembling my Bolt - specifically the ejector pin.

In order to remove the ejector there is a small roll pin that needs to be punched out.  This piece is extremely difficult for me to remove.  I have encountered trouble on 2 out of the 3 bolts I have.  They are quality mil spec parts.  2 are PSA premium bolts and the other is an AIM Surplus 223/5.56 black nitride bolt.

The hole containing the roll pin is extremely small and requires a #1 roll pin punch to remove the roll pin and then the ejector.  I have fastened down the bolt in my vise in order to stabilize the bolt.   However, the roll pin (especially after the carbon gets caked in) is very tight and difficult to remove.  I have bent/broke two different #1 roll pin punches and the roll pin is still stuck in there and won't budge.

Is there a better way to remove the ejector that I am unaware of...?  It seems that the #1 roll pin punch is too thin and long, and overall, poorly designed for this task.  It is easily bent and doesn't seem designed for the downward force needed to remove this roll pin.

Are there specific punches which accomplish this job better...?  Any armorers or gunsmiths who have experience/advice here?  Any responses/advice would be greatly appreciated.

OK - this is probably going to insult you, but I truly do not mean to.  Did you relieve the pressure off the ejector roll pin by pushing the ejector in?  If you're trying to punch out the pin without relieving the spring pressure against it, you will have a devil of a time getting it out.  Use a spent case and hook it under the extractor.  Press in the ejector and use a clamp to hold it in place.  

AR15.com sells a bolt fixture for $15.  It works really great to get the ejector out.  AR15.com Bolt Assembly Block

Yeah, as mentioned you need a helper or fixture (tape?) to use a cartridge base to take pressure off the ejector pin for removal or installation.

No worries about perceived insults.  I appreciate the advice.  

I did push in the ejector in order to relieve the pressure - was working on my build w/ my brother and slowly following the vids/instructions for disassembly.  He depressed the ejector as I attempted to lightly hammer the roll pin punch.  

I even put some Kroil Penetrating Oil in the hole and let it sit in there for a while to see if it would loosen things up.  But still didn't work.  

Thanks for the Bolt Fixture/Assembly block link.  I will definitely look into it.  I also saw some roll pin starter punches on Brownells which have a smaller, stub type punch which looks like it may be less likely to bend.  Will try those and keep you posted.

Here is another option if you haven't bought a different tool already, these use a thumbscrew to push the ejector in so you don't need 3 hands.

AR bolt vise

If your pin punch is bending, cut it off shorter.

Leave it just long enough to shift the roll pin a bit and loosen it.

I have one of these. It works slicker than snot on a doorknob.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/bolt-tools/ejector-tools/ar-15-m16-bolt-ejector-tool-sku939000003-18759-43071.aspx?sku=939-000-003

I have one similar to this that I got from Brownells. Was also like $15. Works great and is super easy to use.

For what its worth not that it helps with your existing bolts (But thoughts for a future purchase perhaps )I have a few Sharps Reliabolt (NP3+ Version ) and the pin that holds the Extractor in is solid.  All I have to do is press down on the extractor from the side just behind the pin, push the retaining pin a little with a firing pin and I can pull it out the other side by pinching it with my nails.  So far I love the Reliabolts!

Except we're talking about the ejector, as in the pin pushing out from the bolt face that throws the cartridge through the ejection port... A solid pin is normal on the extractor, which is the hook-like piece that pulls the cartridge out of the chamber. The ejector is held in with a roll pin.


Now, to the OP, I ask - why do you feel the need to remove each and every one of the ejectors? I was a LE agency armorer for years. In all of that time, I have only ever removed one ejector, and that was during the training course.

The key to roll pins is patience. Don't expect to knock them in or out very easily. They are, by design, intended to hold fast. Slivers of material should sheer off when you are inserting a new one, and if you have trouble getting one started, a slight chamfer on one end can help.

I would assume to check the headspace. Surely as an agency armorer you must have been called upon to do that at some point.

You could always use a piece of 9mm brass and a block of wood with a hole in it for the bolt tail.  Clamp the setup in a vice or c-clamp to relieve some of the pressure on the ejector, then drive the pin out with your punch.

Yes. Headspacing issues caused me to disassemble my bolts and the ejector.

Originally I was having problems/questions regarding a new AR build and the headspace in my new barrel. I have the Go, No-Go, & Field headspacing tools.  

Apparently, one of the 3 bolts I have does not have the proper spacing dimensions b/c my new barrel is fine w/ 2 of my bolts, but not ok w/ 1 one of them.  

Here is my original thread.... https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/694787_First_Barrel_Install____Headspace_Trouble.html

You're talking about the extractor pin. OP is talking about the ejector roll pin. As I mentioned yesterday, get one of the bolt blocks from Brownell's and removing the ejector roll pin will become a piece of cake.

Thanks for the feedback guys. The new tools are en route....will let you know how it goes