Looking for tips, tricks and what not to do when replacing a staked gas key.

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Looking for tips, tricks and what not to do when replacing a staked gas key.

Posted: 2/7/2016 8:33:06 PM EDT

I have an adjustable gas key I would like to install and stake in place.

Do I need to 'push' the material out of the way when removing the old key so I can re-stake the new key with the same material or is cutting a minimal amount to free the screw ok?

Also any tips on re-Stakin the new key would be appreciated.

Posted: 2/7/2016 9:20:36 PM EDT

[#1]

If you can knock the displaced metal back it'll make getting the screws out a lot easier.

As far as staking teh new one one, it's pretty straight forward with either a chicle or a punch. Just have to displace the metal to "lock" the screws in place

Posted: 2/7/2016 9:37:27 PM EDT

[#2]

You may want spare screws in case you strip the hex head.

Posted: 2/7/2016 9:43:37 PM EDT

[#3]

You should ALWAYS replace the carrier key screws with new ones.

Posted: 2/7/2016 9:46:17 PM EDT

[#4]

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You should ALWAYS replace the carrier key screws with new ones.

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Yeah generally a good policy.

Posted: 2/7/2016 10:14:21 PM EDT

[#5]

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You should ALWAYS replace the carrier key screws with new ones.

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The new adjustable gas key came with a new set of screws.

Posted: 2/8/2016 12:41:04 AM EDT

[#6]

To clarify, stake the key into the screws, not the screws into the key.

Posted: 2/8/2016 9:37:33 AM EDT

[#7]

It is good that you are looking to do this right the first time. I have had more guns brought into my shop from the owner removing, then reinstalling the gas key without re-staking than any other problem.

I have also seen people glue their bolt into the carrier with locktight when they put back on the key so that is another thing not to do.

Use a proper torque wrench to install the screws on your gas key, proper torque is very important. I dont have the numbers at my desk but they should not be hard to find on this awesome sight.

Posted: 2/8/2016 11:36:53 AM EDT

[#8]

The current torque spec is 50-58 inch pounds. The old torque spec was 35-40 inch pounds.

You are supposed to use a sealer under the key around the gas port as well.

It has been advised to not use a punch to stake the key unless you are doing the field staking method. I would recommend using the MOACKS Plain.

Posted: 2/8/2016 4:03:34 PM EDT

[#9]

Quote History

Quoted:
The current torque spec is 50-58 inch pounds. The old torque spec was 35-40 inch pounds.

You are supposed to use a sealer under the key around the gas port as well.

It has been advised to not use a punch to stake the key unless you are doing the field staking method. I would recommend using the MOACKS Plain.

View Quote

What type of sealant should I use, and if it's hard to find where should I get it from?

Thank you, everyone for all the helpful tips. I haven't done any work to it yet. I'll try to update this thread with any progress/problems and maybe even a pic or 2.

Posted: 2/8/2016 4:26:07 PM EDT

[#10]

Quote History

Quoted:

What type of sealant should I use, and if it's hard to find where should I get it from?

Thank you, everyone for all the helpful tips. I haven't done any work to it yet. I'll try to update this thread with any progress/problems and maybe even a pic or 2.

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
The current torque spec is 50-58 inch pounds. The old torque spec was 35-40 inch pounds.

You are supposed to use a sealer under the key around the gas port as well.

It has been advised to not use a punch to stake the key unless you are doing the field staking method. I would recommend using the MOACKS Plain.

What type of sealant should I use, and if it's hard to find where should I get it from?

Thank you, everyone for all the helpful tips. I haven't done any work to it yet. I'll try to update this thread with any progress/problems and maybe even a pic or 2.

Spec calls for Permatex Aviation #3, you can find it at any auto parts store.