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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/12/2016 10:50:26 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By taiwanluthiers:
Don't bottom out a router bit or end mill in a router collet. It needs some space for the bit to move back when tightening the collet, and if you bottom them out they will either not tighten correctly (resulting in automatic random height adjustment) or the bit will get stuck in the collet and will never come out. Carbide end mills can be run at very high speed with no ill effect... Also if you bottom out the end mill bit in the Makita that i have it will not stick out far enough to do the very bottom of the FCG cavity or be able to mill out the trigger slot. There is a round hole through the spindle of the trim router below the threaded portion for the collet where the shaft lock fits in. I find it best to locate the end of the bit so you can see it in that hole where if needed you can get a small screwdriver or something to pop the bit out of the collet. That may be hard to visualize... I don't have my trim router here to take a pic of what I am talking about. |
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Posted: 2/15/2016 9:53:59 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
Also if you bottom out the end mill bit in the Makita that i have it will not stick out far enough to do the very bottom of the FCG cavity or be able to mill out the trigger slot. There is a round hole through the spindle of the trim router below the threaded portion for the collet where the shaft lock fits in. I find it best to locate the end of the bit so you can see it in that hole where if needed you can get a small screwdriver or something to pop the bit out of the collet. That may be hard to visualize... I don't have my trim router here to take a pic of what I am talking about. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
Originally Posted By taiwanluthiers:
Don't bottom out a router bit or end mill in a router collet. It needs some space for the bit to move back when tightening the collet, and if you bottom them out they will either not tighten correctly (resulting in automatic random height adjustment) or the bit will get stuck in the collet and will never come out. Carbide end mills can be run at very high speed with no ill effect... Also if you bottom out the end mill bit in the Makita that i have it will not stick out far enough to do the very bottom of the FCG cavity or be able to mill out the trigger slot. There is a round hole through the spindle of the trim router below the threaded portion for the collet where the shaft lock fits in. I find it best to locate the end of the bit so you can see it in that hole where if needed you can get a small screwdriver or something to pop the bit out of the collet. That may be hard to visualize... I don't have my trim router here to take a pic of what I am talking about. I have thought about dropping some items down in the collet to prevent it from moving but haven't gotten around to trying it yet. Even a cut off pencil would work. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/16/2016 1:57:45 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ModulusArms:
I have thought about dropping some items down in the collet to prevent it from moving but haven't gotten around to trying it yet. Even a cut off pencil would work. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ModulusArms:
Originally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
Originally Posted By taiwanluthiers:
Don't bottom out a router bit or end mill in a router collet. It needs some space for the bit to move back when tightening the collet, and if you bottom them out they will either not tighten correctly (resulting in automatic random height adjustment) or the bit will get stuck in the collet and will never come out. Carbide end mills can be run at very high speed with no ill effect... Also if you bottom out the end mill bit in the Makita that i have it will not stick out far enough to do the very bottom of the FCG cavity or be able to mill out the trigger slot. There is a round hole through the spindle of the trim router below the threaded portion for the collet where the shaft lock fits in. I find it best to locate the end of the bit so you can see it in that hole where if needed you can get a small screwdriver or something to pop the bit out of the collet. That may be hard to visualize... I don't have my trim router here to take a pic of what I am talking about. I have thought about dropping some items down in the collet to prevent it from moving but haven't gotten around to trying it yet. Even a cut off pencil would work. Probably about the best thing would be something like a 1/4" steel ball bearing since it would be hard enough not to collapse under pressure but easy to get back out again. |
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Posted: 2/16/2016 9:00:44 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
Yeah, that's a good idea but it may not be the correct height. Probably about the best thing would be something like a 1/4" steel ball bearing since it would be hard enough not to collapse under pressure but easy to get back out again. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
Originally Posted By ModulusArms:
Originally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
Originally Posted By taiwanluthiers:
Don't bottom out a router bit or end mill in a router collet. It needs some space for the bit to move back when tightening the collet, and if you bottom them out they will either not tighten correctly (resulting in automatic random height adjustment) or the bit will get stuck in the collet and will never come out. Carbide end mills can be run at very high speed with no ill effect... Also if you bottom out the end mill bit in the Makita that i have it will not stick out far enough to do the very bottom of the FCG cavity or be able to mill out the trigger slot. There is a round hole through the spindle of the trim router below the threaded portion for the collet where the shaft lock fits in. I find it best to locate the end of the bit so you can see it in that hole where if needed you can get a small screwdriver or something to pop the bit out of the collet. That may be hard to visualize... I don't have my trim router here to take a pic of what I am talking about. I have thought about dropping some items down in the collet to prevent it from moving but haven't gotten around to trying it yet. Even a cut off pencil would work. Yeah, that's a good idea but it may not be the correct height. Probably about the best thing would be something like a 1/4" steel ball bearing since it would be hard enough not to collapse under pressure but easy to get back out again. |
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Posted: 2/19/2016 1:46:32 PM EDT
[#5]
Thanks for the recommendations on the routers - think I'm going to pick up one of the Dewalt DWP611's. Could you guys who have them give a recommendation on a decent drill press for general use, as well as using for completing 80% lowers? I've been meaning to pick up a drill press for some time to use for general stuff on my horse and cattle ranch (equipment repairs, etc.), but just haven't done it yet. Don't have a preference for new or used - if I can get better quality for a better price used would be happy to do that - even if it is for something much older but fully functional. Any suggestions/tips would be most appreciated.
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Posted: 2/20/2016 4:58:36 PM EDT
[#6]
Literally any drill press seems to work with our Jig. We also recently offered the Speed Drill so that you can do it much easier with a hand held drill.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/20/2016 9:15:06 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ModulusArms:
Literally any drill press seems to work with our Jig. We also recently offered the Speed Drill so that you can do it much easier with a hand held drill. Yeah, you can do it with a hand drill and the Modulus HD jig, so any drill press with enough reach to fit the jig into it should work fine. The drill press just makes it a little easier, faster and more fool proof since it keeps things lined up right and gives you more leverage. I got my Speed Drill in the mail yesterday and tried it out a little bit ago... WOW! It works as advertised... the 1/4" hole is as you'd expect a lot easier and faster to drill than 3/8", then the 3/8" drilled in after the 1/4" hole is already there is like drilling in butter. Goes down in just seconds. I'd say it cuts the time to drill the holes in a lower probably in 1/2, and it should make the drilling plate in the Modulus jig last basically forever since really you're only using it for the 1/4" to 3/8" bore which is like nothing. Sweet... |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 3/1/2016 6:37:52 PM EDT
[#8]
FYI -- just found this deal which seems pretty good... It is a refurbished Rigid brand trim router and I believe it is the same as the one that Modulus recommends. Good price and backed by Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-ZRR2401-Laminate-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B004KCQS0K Or this one: https://www.blinq.com/detail/home-garden/tools-home-improvement/power-tools-accessories/ridgid-r24012-5-5-amp-corded-compact-router/146694?condition=new-open-box&adpos=1o2&creative=109364987047&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CjwKEAiAmNW2BRDL4KqS3vmqgUESJABiiwDTLTWEqOVdfK1KtApUXC2-3UdvTk1wEioMRD5Cb6oeWxoCed3w_wcB |
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Posted: 4/5/2016 3:49:04 PM EDT
[#9]
I was using the porter cable PCE6435 over the weekend some more and it is a really good router...
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Posted: 4/17/2016 1:03:55 AM EDT
[#10]
A local store I had a gift certificate for was having a one day sale today and I picked up the Dewalt DWP611 for a good price, I just need my Jig which should be here Monday
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WI, USA
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Posted: 4/17/2016 3:14:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: shootertim]
[#11]
I Have this Porter Cable. I got it for $49.99 at Farm&Fleet on sale. It is more then enough to get the job done. It runs smooth as butter.
http://www.eastcoasttoolsma.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3541&gclid=Cj0KEQjw6My4BRD4ssKGvYvB-YsBEiQAJYd77ReV3XMmNtqOIyQJLJXOol_xYAuEpqNGoP_jbT3ZssUaAlos8P8HAQ&zenid=2049c44d5e07e2b784b6d7149aefd681 |
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Posted: 5/21/2016 11:08:42 AM EDT
[#12]
bump...just to keep it out of the archives
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Posted: 6/8/2016 9:32:03 PM EDT
[#13]
bumping again, as I'm in the midst of my first 80.
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MS, USA
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Posted: 6/10/2016 11:02:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: edekalil]
[#14]
I just recevied the heavy duty Modulus jig. I have bought the DeWalt router that was suggested, and got a 4 inch drill press vice from Harbor Frieght. So i plan to do a few Anderson 80% lowers I've had for a while. From using a variety of power tools when building guitars and doing wood working over the years all i can say about it is let the tool do the work at its on pace whatever speed you choose. Do not force it to work harder than it can. As I have read hear it will take some trial and error to find what will work. If need cut shallower cuts. Can't wate to get one done myself.
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Posted: 6/14/2016 7:50:38 PM EDT
[#15]
Anyone else have any feedback on these options?
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MN, USA
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Posted: 7/5/2016 10:41:28 AM EDT
[#16]
I have a Porter Cable 690 full size router that worked just fine. I did purchase a variable speed control plug from Menard's for $20, which did help a bit, but I think it would have worked with out it.
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NY, USA
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Posted: 7/13/2016 10:57:09 PM EDT
[#17]
Hello everyone. Joined today, first post. Just wanted to say this is a great forum and have learned a lot. We are all people with good hands on here. I think it would be better to recommend the features needed of the router. Instead of brands and models which change frequently. Needed hp, variable speed, base, etc. I prefer to buy quality tools and rather get a better router and just focus on features.
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Posted: 7/14/2016 9:33:35 AM EDT
[#18]
I did 3 receivers last month with the Ridgid 24012 and it worked perfectly.
Easy to adjust, easy to see what you're doing with the built-in light. Bought it new and recouped most of the cost by selling it at a discount with my Modulus jig. |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 7/14/2016 10:22:02 AM EDT
[Last Edit: mneblett]
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ModulusArms:
Anyone else have any feedback on these options? DeWalt DW611 here. Plusses: built-in scale around the height ring permits precise 1/32" (0.03125") steps (every two marks, each mark = 1/64"), body lock is positive, runs fine for hours at 3.5 out of 6 on the speed scale, holds the end mill with virtually no run-out at the deepest setting, ergonomically good, end mill never slipped over four lowers. Minuses: good LED lights, but positioned such that toward the milling of the bottom of trigger section they don't provide much light at the guide plate/mill shaft. As you can tell, I'm really pushing to find negatives. |
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Posted: 8/17/2016 1:54:38 PM EDT
[#20]
So, I have the makita RT0701 and the problem I'm having is that I can't see the holes because the router baseplate is not clear.
The problem wasn't so bad at the beginning because the depth of cut still allowed a good view but as I go lower, I can't see the holes and where 2 holes meet, so I'm getting my end mill "caught" on those edges. I'm trying to go slow and get the router at the right RPM (I ended up sticking near the lower end of the rpm range because on one pass the end mill got caught on an edge and basically ripped itself right out of the collet). That part was due to probably not being tight enough, but it did damage one of the 4 end mill flutes. I have bought 2 more end mills from Modulus, but my main thing is now I am apprehensive about the areas where holes meet (the edges) and I can't see what I'm doing. Should I just get a router that has a clear plate instead? The Makita looks and feels like a good router with good wuality but the damn thing is pitch plack as far as the base goes. I haven't been back to try the 80% for a month now. I'm about 50 percent of the way through. |
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KS, USA
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Posted: 8/17/2016 11:00:12 PM EDT
[#21]
Hey guys, I got the Sears Craftsmans 28212 router to do mine. So far it has worked great with the Modulus HD jig. It does have variable speed and LED lights and a clear base, but the clear base is attached to the metal part of the router, so it doesn't really do you any good. This router comes with a two handle base that you can attach to the router for more control. The downside to that is, it adds to the bottom of the router and you have to drop your end mill to compensate for the extra thickness to do the bottom of the fire control pocket. I did try the handle attachment and personally did not like it.
Also this router gets hot! I don't know about other routers but this one does. I have to hold it way down on the base where the heat is not to bad. I do recommend getting a jig that uses a router though. I bought a cheap jig that required drilling a lot...and I mean A LOT of holes! My drill press was a wimpy little thing that just could not do it. After drilling MOST of the holes, my first 80% lower looked like a rat chewed on it! I didn't even bother to try to complete it using the cheap jig. I bought the Modulus HD and the craftsman router and another lower.....SUCCESS!! Great jig Modulus. I love it. By the way...I acquired a nice old floor drill press (for free) that works perfectly (after cleaning it up) AND I got a Drill Doctor 500X to keep my drill bits sharp. It works great. |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 8/21/2016 4:10:28 PM EDT
[#22]
on the topic of routers and bottoming out, this is a bad idea and should never be done. As one poster commented, as you tighten the bit, it will slightly depress down and needs room to go down. So you always put bit in, bottom it, then raise 1/8" off bottom to tighten. As for putting steel balls down in the collet, another no no. There is one company, and I forget who they are, that sells a rubber gadget that is dropped down in collet and you can mark your depth and not worry about matching profiles when doing wood, as the bit will always bottom at same location. This is only recommended thing that can be put inside this collet. I have the Bosch variable speed, and for some reason, the very fine adjustment is what is the problem on this router. It has a lock and unlock area and a mechanism that you loosen to do the fine adjustment. What happens is that the router wants to rotate into the unlocked position when you loosen the latch, and you loose your height of bit as it will just slide right down as it rotates to the unlocked position. This is what I have found to be the problem with the router in this size. So if using the Modulus jig, which I do own. it is very hard to gradually work your way down to the proper depth of cut in equal increments as the fine depth adjustment is not dependable and personally feel that router should be returned to Bosch and have them fix it. It is right idea but bad mechanics to do it. Use a depth gauge made out of plywood blocks equal to 1/8"or so for each pass should depth adjustment slip. Right now, the Makita looks like the one I would like to have.
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ME, USA
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Posted: 8/22/2016 12:44:31 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Strikefirst5868:
... I have the Bosch variable speed, and for some reason, the very fine adjustment is what is the problem on this router. It has a lock and unlock area and a mechanism that you loosen to do the fine adjustment. What happens is that the router wants to rotate into the unlocked position when you loosen the latch, and you loose your height of bit as it will just slide right down as it rotates to the unlocked position. This is what I have found to be the problem with the router in this size. So if using the Modulus jig, which I do own. it is very hard to gradually work your way down to the proper depth of cut in equal increments as the fine depth adjustment is not dependable and personally feel that router should be returned to Bosch and have them fix it. That is precisely why the Bosch is on our NOT recommended list. From post #1 of this thread. "Bosch PR20EVSK People are surprised when we do not recommended a Bosch tool. This is a quality router with a good sized base but it has a couple of drawbacks. The depth adjustment is a little weird and if you do not do it correctly the height can slip. It also has a tendency to let the router slip in the collet. We used to recommend this but based on customer complaints and problems we don't anymore" |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 8/22/2016 1:33:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: SoftwareJanitor]
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Strikefirst5868:
on the topic of routers and bottoming out, this is a bad idea and should never be done. As one poster commented, as you tighten the bit, it will slightly depress down and needs room to go down. So you always put bit in, bottom it, then raise 1/8" off bottom to tighten. As for putting steel balls down in the collet, another no no. There is one company, and I forget who they are, that sells a rubber gadget that is dropped down in collet and you can mark your depth and not worry about matching profiles when doing wood, as the bit will always bottom at same location. This is only recommended thing that can be put inside this collet. I have the Bosch variable speed, and for some reason, the very fine adjustment is what is the problem on this router. It has a lock and unlock area and a mechanism that you loosen to do the fine adjustment. What happens is that the router wants to rotate into the unlocked position when you loosen the latch, and you loose your height of bit as it will just slide right down as it rotates to the unlocked position. This is what I have found to be the problem with the router in this size. So if using the Modulus jig, which I do own. it is very hard to gradually work your way down to the proper depth of cut in equal increments as the fine depth adjustment is not dependable and personallyfeel that router should be returned to Bosch and have them fix it. It is right idea but bad mechanics to do it. Use a depth gauge made out of plywood blocks equal to 1/8"or so for each pass should depth adjustment slip. Right now, the Makita looks like the one I would like to have. The Makita is a quality unit, I have one and have done several lowers with it -- the only two downsides to it are that it does not have a transparent base and it does not have a light so you need to provide some other source of illumination in your working area. I would recommend checking out the Rigid and DeWalt units as well. The Rigid in particular includes a transparent base and an LED light. If they'd had it in stock at Home Depot when I bought my Makita I probably would have gotten the Rigid instead. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 9/6/2016 11:51:46 AM EDT
[#25]
I have one of these giant Milwaukees and am wondering how well it will work with the Modulus jig? It has variable speed and pretty decent depth adjustment so that should not be an issue but the size may be. I also have a Ryobi plunge cut router but it is not as stable and I don't know what power level is required for an end mill. I would think the larger router would be fine with how big the modulus top plate is but I am a newb.
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NC, USA
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Posted: 9/6/2016 2:02:25 PM EDT
[#26]
Full size routers like your Milwaukee will work just fine and I had access to one but I decided to go ahead and purchase a smaller Dewalt trim router. In my mind it would be hard to be slow and precise with a big full size router where you can really be attentive with a smaller one and feel your way around and make sure you don't screw up. My dewalt was easier to grip firmly and maneuver more methodically. But with enough patience the bigger would work fine. As you stated the Modulus base is plenty big for it.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 9/12/2016 4:34:32 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RCTreadaway:
Full size routers like your Milwaukee will work just fine and I had access to one but I decided to go ahead and purchase a smaller Dewalt trim router. In my mind it would be hard to be slow and precise with a big full size router where you can really be attentive with a smaller one and feel your way around and make sure you don't screw up. My dewalt was easier to grip firmly and maneuver more methodically. But with enough patience the bigger would work fine. As you stated the Modulus base is plenty big for it. Thanks for the input. With a jig as a guide I wouldn't think it would matter about maneuvering it as long as I go slow but I am just making an assumption. I have only used it on wood and it can get out of hand quickly but that is without a guide. People use the motor itself as a CNC router so it's plenty powerful. The Ryobi router I have is smaller but it is top heavy and I worry about it tipping and gouging the lower out of plane. |
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Posted: 9/19/2016 7:07:01 AM EDT
[#28]
Anti-archive bump. Thanks for all the great information everyone.
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Posted: 10/7/2016 9:35:09 PM EDT
[#29]
Picked up a Dewalt DWP611.
Home Depot has them on line for $122.95. Plus tax. Free delivery to the store Lowes has them in stock for $129.00 and does a price match plus 10% Bingo.....Lowes in stock for $110.something plus tax |
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Posted: 11/30/2016 12:39:26 AM EDT
[#30]
The DWP611 is built like a tank.
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USA
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Posted: 11/30/2016 9:20:12 AM EDT
[#31]
Are your lowers threaded for the commercial or mil spec thread pattern?
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ME, USA
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Posted: 11/30/2016 1:40:57 PM EDT
[#32]
Either. The difference is in the size of the buffer tube, not in the receiver
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Posted: 12/17/2016 4:11:12 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ModulusArms:
The DWP611 is built like a tank. Until 12/23, Home Depot & Dewalt has $25 off of a $100 Dewalt tools purchase, so that brings the price down to $103.20 at my Home Depot. I'll probably pick one up before the Special Buy is over. |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 12/19/2016 9:59:03 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rx4spd:
Until 12/23, Home Depot & Dewalt has $25 off of a $100 Dewalt tools purchase, so that brings the price down to $103.20 at my Home Depot. I'll probably pick one up before the Special Buy is over. That's a solid deal right there, this is the router I have used on my last 7 or so and have been very pleased with performance. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 12/19/2016 11:44:24 PM EDT
[#35]
Excellent information here.
Is there a way to save this thread for future reference? |
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Posted: 12/20/2016 1:49:23 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Species5618:
Excellent information here. Is there a way to save this thread for future reference? If you have a paid membership, there is a Subscribe button that keeps track of the thread for you. Without a subscription, you can e-mail the link to yourself and keep it in a separate mailbox. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 10/29/2018 10:23:36 AM EDT
[#37]
very good topic ! Helped me out ! First time builder
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Posted: 11/8/2018 2:45:09 PM EDT
[#38]
A lot of good info here, Made buying the right Router easy.
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Posted: 10/9/2021 7:05:06 PM EDT
[#39]
update: DeWalt DWP611 is still the preferred choice.
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Posted: 10/10/2021 10:19:18 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ModulusArms: The DWP611 is built like a tank. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 10/12/2021 12:12:43 AM EDT
[Last Edit: SoftwareJanitor]
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rpoL98: update: DeWalt DWP611 is still the preferred choice. If you can find one. Also maybe not for the $$$. Given that the street price on DeWalt is about 40% higher than the Makita. And the Makita, is just about everyone's 2nd favorite. I've got a Makita, and I'd buy it again vs. the DeWalt which was (and usually still is) OOS at all the Home Depot stores near me when I was buying. If I was really on a budget the Harbor Freight Bauer trim router is virtually identical (enough so the collet and base plate will interchange) with the Makita. And they are $75 and almost always in stock. The Bauer wasn't around when most of the jig maker's last updated their recommendation lists. And I know a lot of people hate HF, but they've upped their game on their better lines like Bauer and Hercules. Wow... just checked, price of the DWP611 at Home Depot went up by $10 to $150. That's 50% more than the $100 Makita and twice the price of the $75 Bauer... |
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Posted: 10/12/2021 2:00:00 AM EDT
[Last Edit: rpoL98]
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SoftwareJanitor: If you can find one. ... i wonder if all these 80%'ers are driving the demand for the DWP611? DeWalt's probably wondering who are all these shady looking non-carpenters that are buying trim routers. More importantly, what's DeWalt gonna do when they find out? |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 10/12/2021 8:14:07 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rpoL98: i wonder if all these 80%'ers are driving the demand for the DWP611? DeWalt's probably wondering who are all these shady looking non-carpenters that are buying trim routers. More importantly, what's DeWalt gonna do when they find out? I have no idea who is buying all the DWP611, or if DeWalt just isn't making many. But I've been following these threads since 2015 or so when I started doing 80% lowers, and because these threads are ongoing I always check to see what routers are in stock when I am at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. The DWP611 is almost always OOS, as is the Rigid at HD. Both places usually have Makita in stock, as well as one of the non-recommended ones like Bosch. I would think if it were just 80%'ers, that in 6 years the demand would have been filled to the point where there would occasionally be some DWP611 in stock, or there is a LOT of people making these around where I live. I'm more suspecting production or supply issues. Anyway, the Makita works great and is $50-$60 less (HD is currently running them on sale for $90). After dozens of lowers and a couple woodworking projects I don't regret getting the Makita at all. |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 5/15/2022 2:24:59 AM EDT
[#44]
Seeing as Milwaukee is the best in the business right now with power tools. Why aren’t they listed on the sites and which bit to use? I spoke with Milwaukee rep and said rigid is the same since they’re made in the same place but can anyone confirm which bit I need for Milwaukee m18 router?
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/15/2022 1:55:52 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Redhead45: Seeing as Milwaukee is the best in the business right now with power tools. Why aren’t they listed on the sites and which bit to use? I spoke with Milwaukee rep and said rigid is the same since they’re made in the same place but can anyone confirm which bit I need for Milwaukee m18 router? Most of the lists haven't been updated much recently from what I've seen. A few years ago Milwaukee trim routers weren't even sold anywhere around here. That's probably why they haven't made the lists yet. Some people don't recommend a battery powered unit like the M18. If you are only doing a few lowers it is very expensive. From what I see online they're usually around $130 plus you need a battery and a charger unless you already have other Milwaukee 18V tools. The battery and charger adds up to the point where this option is way more than even the expensive DeWalt a lot of people like. I imagine this scares a lot of people away. FWIW, for me, for the money, if I had nothing today I would buy the Bauer unit from Harbor Freight. It's compatible with the Makita (the base and collet are interchangable, I've tested that). And its well under $100. |
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Posted: 2/24/2024 4:19:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Jodan1776]
[#46]
@ModulusArms, your customer service is absolutely terrible.
I already have 5 routers of various make, model, and size, so I am rather reluctant to buy a 6th one. None of my 5 are listed in your list of routers. It seems to me that surely one of the ones I already have would work. I just need to order a mill that matches the threads on one of my existing routers. Trying to pry this simple information from you (or from 80percentarms or from 5dtactical) has been absolute hell, and has been ongoing for many months. Way back last fall, I sent you a query asking what is the thread pitch of the 4 mill options. I received a reply claiming that information was going to be posted soon on your website. It was not and still is not. On Dec 4, 2023, I sent you another query about it from your website form, again asking for this simple, innocuous information. NO RESPONSE I resent the query 12/17 - NO RESPONSE I resent the query 12/27 - NO RESPONSE I resent the query 1/11/2024 - NO RESPONSE I sent you another query 1/31, as a reply to your WE ARE BACK BABY email - NO RESPONSE This horrible, non-existent customer service certainly changes my attitude toward your company from one that was highly supportive of what you're doing to one that is only disgust. Your FAQ/contact page says this: Our customer support team understands the importance of post-sale support, and aims to educate our customers on how to get the most out of their Modulus Arms products. I don't know about your post-sale support, but you clearly do not "understand the importance of [pre]-sale support", not does "educate our customers" seem to be on your radar at all. Frankly, I doubt that your post-sale support is any less wretched than your pre-sale support. |
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