Anything in particular to look for in regards to using an Anderson lower for a build? Received an email from joebob's with a 15% off Anderson lower coupon LABORDAY15, have to buy two or more to get the discount.  I ordered two, and from the reviews on Joebob's website, they seem generally good but thought those here might have known things to look out for prior to assembling one.  Or are they GTG?  Seemed kinda hard to beat 38 and change for a stripped lower.

I've used about 6 now. They are GTG.

fpni

I have two and are happy with them.

I've built off of 3 Anderson's and not had a problem w/any. Quality product  

The new lowers use a smaller logo/font over the older models from a couple years ago.

Just picked up 5 on Tuesday. The finish is very good. I will most likely use these from now on I just don't see paying 150-400 for a stripped lower. Maybe if it was a rare lower or something I was buying to collect.

i bought 3 and have used 2 so far. they are good to go.

Just picked one up for my second build and looks GTG.

Thank god, I just ordered 13

We use them in our AR build class at the shop. They are fine. They make lowers for other major names so...

I have read all 10,0087 of the posts that have asked the same question since your join date and except for the occasional bad one they seem fine.

Careful with the pistol grip screw hole, they aren't all threaded all the way through and a normal 1" pistol grip screw won't tighten down. The shorter magpul ones work fine though.  This isn't just a problem with Andersons though, I have an Aero that is the same way

Yes, I ran into this exact problem with hand grip changes. On my last build, I went from an A2 grip to an ergonomic grip and grip was wiggly. Found a nut that would fit inside the grip, but had to drill out threads to slip over screw and installed and grip is now tight. 1/8" thread tap too short on receiver.

Yup. Very annoying. Fortunately, I had a spare magpul screw in the parts bin.

My Aeros are threaded through.

found this out two when I was helping my buddy assemble two lowers. I just got a plain washer out of my tool box and used that to make up the difference, it would bug me but my buddy didn't care as long as the grip was tight. at least I know this is how they are made and can  prepare for the next time I use one.

I'll add there is debate about the grip screw and the all important mil spec length. Some fit fine with certain grips but not other aftermarkets, some could be taped and threaded  but you will loose the finish for cutting threads.... So it is a lot of options and wank over a simple work around, if it does by chance effect the trigger

http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2015/08/28/anderson-ar-15-lowers-no-longer-mil-spec/  has post explaining the screw length difference with enough comments to cover the debate.


An interesting note  is we've gotten use to panic prices and when we see things at saner prices, we start to question their worth. Anderson receivers don't have the name tax in their price yet ether. Come next year we'll hate ourselves for not stocking up when a bs panic hits near election time.

Built an Anderson lower last month and had to ream the front takedown holes for the pin to be able to be pushed in all the way.  Magwell may be a hair tighter on this one than my Palmetto builds.  But for $43 out the door, kinda hard to complain. I still need to check the other Andersons for the takedown pin hole issue. Takes 5 minutes to fix it.  I tap all my grip screw holes for the 50 cent set screw trigger mod.

Same here.

Buddy bought one, we assembled my second and his one Saturday a few weeks back.  The Anderson lpk trigger guard pin was oversize, went in about halfway then we decided to drive it back out and use a pin from the spares kit I had.  My rra lpk pin went in easy, spares kit went in to his lower easy.  

No rounds downrange from my second lower but it function checked perfect on my built upper.

I used two and they seem to do the trick. No combat testing yet though.

I've built on a half dozen or so now and all were fine.

A lot of lowers are this way except spikes from what I have seen. I keep a tap laying around and clean out the grip hole and thread it up farther to be able to use any style grip screw.

its a forged lower

They look like a pretty good lower, ordered a pair, ended up with consecutive serial numbers.  Now I've just got to figure out what I want to do with them.

Had same problem had to switch screws till I found one to use. Out of the 5+ I've used, only had issues with one

my lower and a buddies were both out of spec when it came to the detent hole for the saftey selector switch. very annoyed wont buy another again from anderson. thats what you get with cheap stuff though its my own fault for going cheap.

Hmmm, tempted to buy one for a dedicated .22lr build.  Hard to pass up a $50 lower....

Haven't had any issues with 4 of mine (purchased at different times; probably different batches). I wish the finish was darker. It stands out, as all of my uppers are deep, rich black. Anderson lowers are grayish.

Same. 3 builds for a buddy on Anderson lowers.

I just bought two from AIM. One with a trigger guard and one without. 39.99 each. Honestly, I don't like the roll mark. I have one of their uppers, and it seems llke the finish comes off rather easily from the scope mount. But the figment is good, finish is even, they are within spec well enough for me, and they work. The fact that they are 40 bucks helps. And I am not one of those people that puts shit on my guns. The lowest quality part I have ever used in my opinion is a MI handguard. And that's not really bad. I don't buy shit, but I also am not going to spend 100+ on a forged lower for the roll mark, as tempting as it is.

TLDR: buy an Anderson lower, hell, for the price, buy two.

Well, just bought one. Will pick up on Tues. Looked fine while at the LGS. $50 after taxes seems like a killer deal. I remember when I paid $90 for my lower years ago and I thought that was a good deal.

Just to close out my initial post with my thoughts. I bought two Anderson lowers, both without enclosed trigger guards.  Had no issues with fitment on either one.  Only issue I had, if you can call it an issue, was with a bolt release I installed on one of the lowers.  It wouldn't rotate freely.  I suspect it more of a problem with the bolt release rather than the lower.  I always test function of the bolt release rotation with a toothpick holding the bolt release rather than the roll pin.  I used a small file on both sides of the bolt release on the surfaces that are set in to the receiver, I also used the file lightly on the lower receiver to make sure there were no burrs causing a bind at the roll pin holes.  The bolt release was from a LPK from PSA, of which I have used 4 without issue other than this one.  A little filing and it rotates as it should, or close to it.  I do have what I assume is one of the original 20 round pmags that doesn't hold the bolt open after the last shot.  All other pmags, known gne2 and gen 3, and aluminum mags operate the Bolt catch fine.

The engraving isn't real deep.  I did a color fill on one, just the roll mark and the safe/fire, they turned out great, but had to use care not to remove the paint from the shallow depth of the engraving.  Probably my biggest complaint with them would be they do not have fire/safe engraved on both sides of the receiver.  One ended up with an Anderson upper receiver, and the other ended up with a Smith & Wesson complete upper on it.  Detent pins fit great, had no issue with grip screw threads or any hole that uses a roll pin.  For the price, pretty good deal.  I'd bought a couple other brand lowers where the engraving was done much better and had fire/safe on both sides of the lower and the finish was more aesthetically pleasing to me, for 49 bucks a piece, both from Tactical Machining.

The finish and engraving on the Tactical Machining was on par with the lower I had built using a Smith & Wesson M&P15 lower

Anderson lowers are the current "Get 'em while they're hot" item on the market these days. Does that mean you are getting perfection for the price of pennies?... no. It is what it is: A mass-produced component, almost certainly put out the door after only a basic inspection of critical components & tolerances in an effort to keep production costs down so as to be able to offer these items at a lower price to the end-user. It is up to you (as the builder / end-user) to ensure the final fit, finish, & function of your firearm. I have used a couple of these lowers now in various builds, and in my experience, this is what I have found:

The lowers tend to have an ever-so-slightly more "grayish" black finish to them... I can only speculate that maybe these lowers spent less time in the anodizer during the coloring process? In any event, I've found the color difference to be soo slight it's hardly of any notice. (See pic below)

The front pivot pin hole is exceptionally tight against the pivot pin. I've tried various pivot pins in the same pivot holes, always with the same result - The pin will be really tight the first time you install it (even if well-oiled), & even the first ten times you do so, but if you keep it well-oiled & repeatedly remove & install it, it will reach a nice equilibrium between tension & ease of operation. Once it reaches this sweet spot, try installing it with the upper of your choice & if necessary - repeat the process. (Personally, I've yet to have any issues with swapping uppers with these lowers. It seems that once you work out the fitment of the pivot pin with the lower itself, swapping uppers is gravy.)

The pistol grip hole threading: I've found that if you're using pretty much ANY standard A1 or A2-spec pistol grip, you'll never experience an issue with the amount of threading (or lack thereof) when installing the grip, however - the shelf inside many non-standard grips is often either more shallow (thinner), or sits higher in the grip than on a mil-spec A1 or A2-style, which can potentially lead to tightening issues when using non-standard grips. Simple solutions abound for this (use thicker washers, or shorter screws), as well as a few not so simple ones (tap & drill the threads deeper).

Bolt-catch cavity milled to the bare minimum depth necessary for operation, &/or bolt-catch roll pin hole not centered correctly. I've had to return one lower where the bolt-catch could not engage the bolt because of a combination of these two factors was present. You can mill out the cavity deeper if you want, but I found it easier to get a replacement lower than to go the milling route.

Hanging metal chads: 2 of the lowers I've used have had tiny bits of anodized aluminum metal burrs / shavings left inside various holes (inside the bolt-catch roll pin hole on one receiver, and inside the take-down pin spring hole on the other. They were easily removed with a little compressed air and a tooth-pick, but still...something you should watch out for when assembling your lower.

All-in-all, I find these lowers to make for an OK build, and at present prices (@ $40-$50) certainly worth stashing away for a rainy day, but don't go into one of these thinking it will be a simple "plug & play" build. At the very least, you will be required to do your gun-smithing-like part: to inspect everything yourself & ...more than likely - make corrections &/or adjustments for minor flaws or fitment issues. If the issues are beyond your capabilities - seek a replacement lower. I've found that with these lowers - if I've done my part, these builds will certainly do theirs...

My A2 clone build, built on an Anderson Arms lower receiver:



FlDiveCop71

I have built two, one older unicorn style & one newer with the multi cal mark. both are good to go, zero issues. never built one with the integrated trigger guard.

When I bought one I compared it to a Spikes Punisher that was $180. NJ prices but that's another story. Anyway for half the price it looked and felt as well built as Spikes. Finish is good and went together with no issues. Maybe next build I'll buy the Spikes with the Crusader logo and spend the extra couple bucks. Happy with the Anderson would not have a problem buying again.

Here's a better pic of the Anderson lower used in my A2 clone build pictured above in my previous post (exploded view taken before assembly).

Thinking about picking up another one just... well... because they're just soo easy to get a hold of right now.

Bought three, built two.  No problems.  Buddy bought one plus ordered a complete Anderson kit, lower went together well, haven't assembled the upper yet.  

Both lowers of mine function perfect, RRA lpk.  Still piling up parts for the third upper.  I think I might get a couple more lowers and hold off on the bcg and barrel for the third rifle.  There's an election coming up or so I hear...

So I picked up my lower yesterday and assembled it.  Everything went well.  It does appear to be the newer rollmark , but color sure isn't as deep and dark as the image above.  That picture looks like it's those Teflon type coating used on some of the others.  I just oiled it up.

No issues with any parts, but I haven't installed a buffer tube yet, but I suspect that shouldn't be an issue....  Not bad at all for $50.  When I went online to look for potentially more, all sold out.

I just ordered 2, one with trigger guard and one without. I just got them for the hell of it, no idea what I will do with them. Only 40$ each.

Just ordered a couple more of the standard ones myself.
Looks like I'll be finishing up that C7 franken-build of mine after all.