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Posted: 9/2/2015 9:47:09 PM EDT
[#1]
Tag
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Posted: 9/2/2015 9:52:28 PM EDT
[#2]
interesting.
I am not familiar with that lower, does it use a rifle buffer system and now you will use a carbine system? |
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Posted: 9/2/2015 9:54:54 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
interesting. I am not familiar with that lower, does it use a rifle buffer system and now you will use a carbine system? It uses a carbine buffer. The stock is A1 length from the factory. I used a sand to fit butt pad from Brownells when I chopped mine. |
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Posted: 9/2/2015 10:01:46 PM EDT
[#4]
Doh!
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Posted: 9/2/2015 10:20:21 PM EDT
[#5]
You can undercut the trigger guard too just don't go too deep.
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Posted: 9/2/2015 10:39:50 PM EDT
[#7]
Thank you very much for that. I'd like to split one lengthwise.
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Posted: 9/2/2015 11:55:53 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thank you very much for that. I'd like to split one lengthwise. Calvary Arms had a tutorial "Sticky" on their Industry Page, but appears they have dropped their sponsorship. 
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Posted: 9/2/2015 11:56:00 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thank you very much for that. I'd like to split one lengthwise. Find an early enough model and you can do just that. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 12:52:41 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Find an early enough model and you can do just that. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Thank you very much for that. I'd like to split one lengthwise. Find an early enough model and you can do just that. I have one of the ARFCOM Cav Aid Type 1 lowers, and pulled out the screws out of it. Still have to overcome some plastic welds. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 5:06:41 AM EDT
[#11]
Interesting. Was just looking at these the other day for a lightweight build.
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Posted: 9/3/2015 7:04:16 AM EDT
[#12]
Be aware that some types of grind to fit recoil pads have minimum dimensions due to internal cavities. You don't want to hit the gel pocket or something like that.
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Posted: 9/3/2015 9:03:38 AM EDT
[#13]
I have one of these coming. I may put a QD socket on the side of the stock while I'm waiting for the buttpad.
Any other pointers for the lower build? I may undercut the trigger guard some but will see how it feels assembled first. If I'm going to do that, I may as well stipple the grip too... |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 9:33:49 AM EDT
[#14]
at: I suggest you cover the open end with a flat piece of sturdy plastic, attached with PVC cement. Then buy a cheap pair of beach flops, the kind with one piece soles, the larger size the better. Then cut out a right-sized piece with a knife and attach to the flat piece of plastic, again with PVC cement. Trim with rough sandpaper to fit the A1 stock's profile. Works like a charm, doesn't weigh a lot and if done carefully, doesn't look too bad. - CW
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Posted: 9/3/2015 10:19:57 AM EDT
[#15]
Curious as to what tools/process would be used to undercut trigger guard?
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Posted: 9/3/2015 10:26:19 AM EDT
[#16]
Looks better than when you first explained it to me...
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Posted: 9/3/2015 1:06:34 PM EDT
[#17]
at4rxj, I do have a couple question for you, just out of curiosity. What is your Overall Length goal ? And is there a specific reason for shortening this stock ? ( I personally think the A1 length is about perfect, just my opinion there ) |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 1:47:00 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Calvary Arms had a tutorial "Sticky" on their Industry Page, but appears they have dropped their sponsorship. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Thank you very much for that. I'd like to split one lengthwise. Calvary Arms had a tutorial "Sticky" on their Industry Page, but appears they have dropped their sponsorship. They've long been bankrupt. They sold all their equipment to GWACS, who very helpfully floats a replacement warranty on all Cav Arms & Sabre Defense Type 2 receivers - exchange for any reason for $35, I believe. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 1:49:52 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They've long been bankrupt. They sold all their equipment to GWACS, who very helpfully floats a replacement warranty on all Cav Arms & Sabre Defense Type 2 receivers - exchange for any reason for $35, I believe. He was referring to Cav Mfg, who is still in business making everything that Cav Arms used to sans the lowers. They were an industry sponsor for a while and had the tutorial tacked in their forum. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 1:52:16 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Works like a charm, doesn't weigh a lot and if done carefully, doesn't look too bad. - CW I don't mean to disparage your work, but there's really no way around it, that looks horrible. These look much better and I'm sure they last a lot longer. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 2:09:21 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
at4rxj, I do have a couple question for you, just out of curiosity. What is your Overall Length goal ? And is there a specific reason for shortening this stock ? ( I personally think the A1 length is about perfect, just my opinion there ) To be honest I didn't set any goals for this. I didn't even measure or compare to another lower with a stock... I just measured the inside of the tube area, decided exactly 2" was a nice round number and cut it. Comparing it afterwards to a lower with a collapsible stock it's in between the first and second position. I'll try to get a pic later on. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 2:52:34 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
He was referring to Cav Mfg, who is still in business making everything that Cav Arms used to sans the lowers. They were an industry sponsor for a while and had the tutorial tacked in their forum. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: They've long been bankrupt. They sold all their equipment to GWACS, who very helpfully floats a replacement warranty on all Cav Arms & Sabre Defense Type 2 receivers - exchange for any reason for $35, I believe. He was referring to Cav Mfg, who is still in business making everything that Cav Arms used to sans the lowers. They were an industry sponsor for a while and had the tutorial tacked in their forum. Ah. They've maintained this page for quite some time - it may be of interest to some folks: http://www.cavalrymanufacturing.com/CAV15/CAV15MKI.html Josh, if you haven't seen it, there's a surprise awaiting you in the 1911 forum: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_5_49/162331_For_Josh_and_DJ___what_you_asked_for_last_year.html |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 9:14:27 PM EDT
[#23]
I cut this type D stock down about 1 1/2". Shaved the type D buttplate to size, reshaped it and glued it on with 'gorilla snot' black RVT silicon.
Used a DPMS stock extender kit with a Rock River entry length buffer tube. I like nose-to-charging-handle!  " />
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Posted: 9/5/2015 11:30:33 AM EDT
[#24]
Looks good man! I gotta admit I was kinda nervous for you when I heard you were doing it.
Have you considered the slip on butt pads and glue? |
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Posted: 9/5/2015 12:01:05 PM EDT
[#25]
Aluminum plate 1/4" thick may look decent as well and considering how much a 5.56 doesn't recoil could be an option as a cushion isn't really needed.
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Posted: 9/5/2015 12:23:03 PM EDT
[#26]
I considered a slip on but as said I don't really need a "recoil pad" so much as a spacer of some kind that doesn't scream BUBBA when I pull it out.
I have a piece of kydex I'm considering using for the shape then adding some small rubber or non-slip material of some kind. I definitely don't want epoxy or PVC glue coming out of the joints so whatever I'll do will be a one piece buttpad that I attach with screws to the stock. I did order that grind to fit buttpad and it should be here Mon or Tues. I'll give that a shot first. |
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Posted: 9/5/2015 3:18:02 PM EDT
[#27]
I cut mine as short as possible and left it "in the rough", looks fine to me
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Posted: 9/5/2015 4:41:06 PM EDT
[#28]
You may want to fill a couple of those gaps inside with Devcon or something similar to give your screws some extra material to bite into when screwed down.
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